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ANH Leia WIP by Jeniwan

 
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject: ANH Leia WIP by Jeniwan Reply with quote

After much weeping and wailing about my spectacular fail at doing the buns and throwing everything in a closet and swearing I wouldn’t touch it again... I’m finally feeling inspired to work on Leia again. I am a Rey of heart (and a Jyn Erso on my less smiley days) so moving into the pristine princess realm is a big change for me. I am excellent at weathering but have never made anything that needed to look regal before. I don’t sew, but my longsuffering husband does, so we are starting this project today!

Feedback very much appreciated: I’d rather know about issues now then get too far and have to fix a lot in judging. But I am not an expert on this costume details and my husband is a newbie tailor, so please dumb it down for us when needed Smile

Progress so far:
Hair - cried a lot, then made clip on buns (to be discussed later)
Dress - Jet Set Knit acquired. Read through Pam’s and JenEyre’s tutorials. Husband is about to get drafting
Boots- Purchased the white motorcycle boots on Amazon (need to modify)
Belt - today’s project!

For the belt, I have purchased white upholstery vinyl, which I plan to double (and can sandwich in craft foam if needed for stability). The plates are cut from a sheet of craft aluminum, with the edges slightly beveled. And I got the recommended button covers.

Before I cut and glue anything, I am hoping for some feedback:
1. Does this shape look correct?
2. Do I need to paint the plates and buttons or is the metal ok as is?
3. Anything else need changing?








[/img]
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
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Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After getting some feedback from Lora Skywalker (thank you!) I rounded my belt shape just a little bit more. I only shaved a teensy bit off the top curve and the bottom point, but I agree it looks a lot better!

Here is the before and after:



So now I am waiting for glue to dry on my vinyl-and-craft-foam sandwich, which is what I am using for the belt base. (I might upgrade to leather later, but I’m trying to do this costume on the cheap.)

In the meanwhile, I am taking another look at my boots. I got these on Amazon because they were the only decent option I could find that would fit my size 11 feet (the Rubies and other costume versions I’ve found only go up to a size 10):



I have already removed the lower strap and buckle, which conveniently slides right off. I am wondering now: do I need to remove the top buckle too, or is it OK since it will be covered by the dress? I am afraid if I remove it, the boots will be too loose and slide down, though I suppose I could sew together the slit that is currently held in place by the buckle. Any advice?
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would remove the buckle given how see-through and clingy most of the fabric we use to make this dress can be.
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
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Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daughter of Alderaan wrote:
I would remove the buckle given how see-through and clingy most of the fabric we use to make this dress can be.


Thanks, good advice. I’ve removed he buckled and will replace them with elastic inside to keep the boots from slouching too much.
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
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*
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 1:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished the belt last weekend, and although there were a few rough spots (literally... my knife for cutting the vinyl was a bit too dull so I had trouble getting smooth edges) I am happy with the results.

It took a lot of teeny tiny trims to get the shape to what I hope is just right.


Then we riveted the plates onto the belt (forgot to take a picture, but used 3/8” rivets. I am hoping this keeps the plates on nice and tight, as well as helping to hold the belt layers together, since it is 2 layers of upholstery vinyl with craft foam in between.

I attached the button covers with super glue. First I filled them with circles of more craft foam to give the glue more surface area. Then I realized that because my belt plates are bent a little bit to curve around by waist, my button covers wouldn’t lay flat, so I had to bend them too.



So, the belt is done! The vinyl bubbles a little bit when it is laying flat, but when it’s standing up or on the waist it’s looking perfect and it has held up to a lot of taking on and off for fittings this week:





The best part is this was a super inexpensive project! I purchased everything at Hobby Lobby:
1/2 yd upholstery vinyl: $3.50
Sheet of craft aluminum: $4.19
2 large pieces of craft foam: $1.98
3 packs of button covers: $3.72
Glue, tools, and rivers already on hand.
Total cost: $13.39


[/img]
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*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is looking good. Smile Glad I could help.
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 285
Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't been updating here, but we have been making steady progress on my dress as well, though we've had some interesting challenges.

I am tall (5'10") and have a very long arm span to go with it, so my husband (who is making the dress) and I agreed that we would need to do the two piece method with a hidden waist seam so that we could make a wider top. This method is helpfully outlined by another member on her blog: http://costumesandartwork.blogspot.com/2010/10/anh-leia-senatorial-gown.html?m=1 (This post has been absolute indispensable for my build!)

However, once I tried on the top, I was not thrilled with how it looked:



I felt like I looked very "dumpy" and did not have the nice elegant drape that we are supposed to see with this dress. The sleeves also were not laying very nice and kept rolling forward so that the hem was twisting and visible. Not a nice look.

I stared at the costume for a long time, trying to figure out what was wrong. And then I touched it... and realized that the stretch on my skirt was going left-right, but the stretch on my top was going up-down because we had rotated the fabric (positioning the pattern against the grain) to accommodate my long arm span. Because the grain and stretch were going in the wrong direction, it wasn't draping as well as it should have.

I asked around to see how others had solved this problem, and unfortunately did not get any good answers. The best advice I got was to try making it in a crepe de chine (ESB style) with no stretch, so that the grain direction wouldn't matter as much. However, I wanted to use the fabric that I had on hand. (I also investigated whether I could buy a poly knit in a wider fabric width, but had no luck.)

So, we decided to use some of the fabric we had on hand to make another top with the grain going in the correct direction, and see if that would maybe be wide enough for my arm span. (My arm span is 70 inches finger tip to finger tip, so 60 inch wide fabric would be cutting it very close.)

Good news! The fabric is just barely wide enough, and the drape is so much better! You can tell I am much happier with this look:


Seriously though, look at this side-by-side... I can't believe what a difference just the direction of the grain makes. The only other change we made to the second version was slightly altering the shape of the sleeves and cutting a bit more generously in the bust:


Once we were sure that the sleeves were wide enough, my husband lined the top and attached it to the bottom. That's when it really started coming together:





I wasn't sure how much I would like this costume, but once I had it on for the first time, I started getting pretty excited.
_________________
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
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Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now we are getting into the fiddly details, so I would appreciate any advice and feedback you have.

First, the hood is now attached! It is one layer of fabric with a hand-stitched rolled hem. I wanted to see how it would look with the hair, so I quickly attached my "insta buns" onto my head, but my own hair is not parted and is just in a bun on the back of my head. So that is why my head looks very lumpy and my buns look floppy in some of these photos :-)





Here is what the hood looks like down:



I think the hood looks a bit strange in the back when it is up, but I also realize I have never seen a good reference photo of what it should look like up. Maybe this is just a weird hood? And I know my extra hair is making it hang a little bit messy. But I would love to know what you think, and if this is about the right size and shape for the hood.

While we are talking about buns, here is a quick picture of my "insta bun." I handmade these with kanekalon extensions bobby pinned to a mesh base, with a hair comb sewn on. In this picture, it's attached to my head with just that comb, but I know I will need to part my own hair and hide it under the buns, and attach the buns much more securely. But since this is the best picture I have, I would also love some feedback on the size and shape:



Our last step is the collar. I have heard that the collar often needs interfacing, so we used some iron-on interfacing that we had on hand. It was so horrible and stiff, that even when we just wrapped it around my neck (not attached to the dress) I knew I couldn't stand it. I absolutely hate turtlenecks and anything that feels tight around my throat. So we scrapped that and tried making one without any interfacing. Unfortunately, I think it looks too droopy:



So it does need some kind of interfacing, but nothing too stiff. A very sweet friend kindly offered to send me a softer, more flexible interfacing that she recommends for knits, so I am waiting for that to arrive to try again.

In the meanwhile, we clipped the neck shut to get some photos of the keyhole in the back. It's hard to really get a good picture, or even know exactly how it is laying, without hook and eye attached, but here's what we have so far:



Any feedback on the size and length of the keyhole? I'd rather make any adjustments now before the collar is sewn on.

It definitely feels like we are in the home stretch. Making any alterations and adding the collar are the last steps for the dress. Then I just need to sew some elastic into the tops of my boots and figure out how to properly attach my buns, and then I am ready to submit!
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be totally honest I am a little worried about how short the sleeves are now that they are hemmed- ideally they are between first knuckle and wrist...
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daughter of Alderaan wrote:
To be totally honest I am a little worried about how short the sleeves are now that they are hemmed- ideally they are between first knuckle and wrist...


They just about cover the wrist bone, and unfortunately I don't have a millimeter to spare in terms of fabric width. The seam allowance is the selvedge, so it's as narrow as can be without the selvedge perforations showing. I am hoping that once the dress is pressed I can squeeze a little more length out of it. If the sleeve length is a deal-breaker, then this can't be an approvable costume for me. Oh well.

Even if I can't officially troop in it, I'd still like it to look as nice as possible, though, so any other feedback you can give before we finish up the collar would be appreciated.
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think otherwise it looks ok- I would recommend shortening the hood so it hits about an inch further up

The sleeves are a tough call I just think the outfit will look nicer if you were able to try and cut the top with longer sleeves but I appreciate your fabric limitation dilemma
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In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
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Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daughter of Alderaan wrote:
I think otherwise it looks ok- I would recommend shortening the hood so it hits about an inch further up

The sleeves are a tough call I just think the outfit will look nicer if you were able to try and cut the top with longer sleeves but I appreciate your fabric limitation dilemma


That’s not possible; there was no cutting involved in the sleeve length, the top is literally the entire width of the fabric, including the selvedge. I decided the outfit looks nicer on my body with the correct drape, and having a flattering garment matters more to me than the sleeves. I believe I am within the range allowed by the costume standard, which explicitly permits wrist length.

Anyway, the hood can be shortened fairly easily yet since the collar is not yet attached. I made myself a side by side and can see it does look a tad long. Where is the recommended stopping point? I have seen reference to the tailbone or 3” below the belt. My torso is a lot shorter than Carrie’s (all my height is in my limbs, heh) so my belt doesn’t quite align and I’m not sure if I should adjust the hood in proportion to where my belt sits or a particular spot on my body:


_________________
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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Location: Michigan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hair and makeup test today, in hopes of taking my submission photos tomorrow!
I found a fabulous blog with a breakdown of Leia’s makeup: https://diythegalaxyofstarwars.wordpress.com/2017/06/30/diy-classic-leia-make-up/
I am terrible at makeup so this was really helpful.

Once I got my face on, I decided to go ahead and pin on my buns. I revelry sewed combs onto them, and they are staying put now. I need to learn how to part my hair better though!





I’m really happy with the makeup, and hoping that the buns will be good enough!
_________________
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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jeniwan (Jenna Hunt)
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I submitted today! We did take the hood up about an inch, and closed up the gap for the key hole a bit more. The interfacing my friend sent for the collar was perfect. I'll wait to see the results of my submission before posting the full costume, but here's an outtake from the photos:



Wish me luck!
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Legion Costume Judge -- Rey / Jyn Erso / Cassian Andor
*
Great Lakes Base -- Rey (Resistance, Jakku, TLJ and Training) Jyn Erso
*
Oh and that one time I made a wookiee: www.instagram.com/latch_wooking
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have done a good job with it. Smile It's difficult when your arms are simply too long to make any adjustments, and this is a costume that's all about the little details.
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