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Jyn Erso / Cassian Jacket Building Info [WIP]

 
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:08 am    Post subject: Jyn Erso / Cassian Jacket Building Info [WIP] Reply with quote

[[This is a Work In Progress, I am going to be fleshing this out with pictures and write-ups as I go. Until it is done, I'll try to note edit dates]]

Page 1: Pattern Overview
Page 2: Fabric and Silk Screening/Stripe Options
Page 3: Constructing Front
Page 4: Constructing Back
Page 5: Constructing Sleeves
Page 6: Weathering

Page 1:

I decided to make this thread to explain how I constructed my jacket in detail. It is a mix of a blog and a tutorial, a few of the methods I use are a little complicated or on-the-fly to make a step-by-step tutorial, but hopefully the info will help with understanding the constructing of the jacket and present a few options. This is to help costumers with the technical details of construction, I just ask that people not use the info or patterns I provide to make commissions, this is for educational purposes only!!
I'll be updating this thread as I do the build, I've put several place-holder threads so that all the pertinent info stays to the first page or two of the thread and isn't broken up by comments.


The standard for the jacket is pretty simple and not very descriptive, and is currently ( as of 02/24/18 ):

"1. Jacket

a. Dull sage green, blue-green, or teal-gray heavy cotton jacket. Jacket is visible below the bottom of the vest but does not reach past top of hips. Sleeves reach just to the wrist and do not cover the gloves."

Were the standard more descriptive, I would describe it as:

Jacket

Dull sage green, blue-green, or teal-gray heavy cotton jacket. Jacket is visible below the bottom of the vest but does not reach past top of hips.

Jacket has matching separating zipper, pull side hidden. Two darts on each side of front. Open pocket on right side with "fly-front" shaped top stitching. Left side has pocket with flap top and badge holder with 3 vertical top-stitched lines. Front yokes have 6 vertical top-stitched lines. Jacket has mandarin collar with 5 horizontal top-stitched lines, and bottom band with 5 top-stitched lines. Skirt hook bar visible on right side.

Jacket back has Bi-swing or Action pleats at shoulders with seam that continues to hem. Center back seam. All seams are double-top-stitched.

Sleeve has a center bloodstripe panel of dull tan on the yellow side. Approximately 46 stripes between 1"-1.25" wide and 5/16" tall, with double top-stitching on either side. Sleeve has wide cuff with slightly smaller band cuff over top which close at wrist with black skirt hooks.
Sleeves reach just to the wrist and do not cover the gloves.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN OVERVIEW

[Insert several pictures of Jacket]

It can be assumed that the jacket Jyn wears, being so similar to Cassian's and it is acquired on the Rebel Base on Yavin, is an issued uniform jacket. There are two notable differences between Jyn's Jacket and Cassian's jacket. The first is the color; Cassian's is a neutral brown color, where Jyn's is what I am calling a "cypress" green (sort of a gray/bluegreen mix; more on that on post #2) The second are a couple of fitting differences, which I assume are for male/female forms. Cassian's jacket has two buckles on the bottom waistband, which are missing from Jyn's. Jyn's also has two darts on the front panels, which Cassian does not.

I counted 34 total pieces for the jacket.
01. Front Panel (x2)
02. Front Yoke (x4, self-faced)
03. Left Pocket
04. Right Pocket
05. Right Pocket flap
06. Rank Badge Holder
07. Center Back (x2)
08. Side Back (x2)
09. Bi-Swing Shoulder (x2)
10. Bi-Swing Facing (x2)
11. Inside Back Stretch Panel
12. Collar (x2)
13. Sleeve Front (x2)
14. Sleeve Back (x2)
15. Sleeve Stripe Panel (x2)
16. Cuff (x4)
17. Cuff Wrap (x2)
18. Cuff Wrap Facing (x2)
19. Jacket Bottom Band (This can either be in 1 piece or 3, depending on if you want to add the seam to the side)

Notions:
-Topstitching Thread (A bit heavier than regular sewing thread)
-3 Large black skirt hooks
-1 Separating Zipper, matching coil or teeth, with pull separating on the right side (when worn). If you are dyeing your fabric and can find a dyeable zipper with the pull on the correct side, I highly recommend throwing one in your dye bath!!
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837


Last edited by Leia (Vera Campbell) on Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:37 am; edited 4 times in total
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Page 2: Fabric and Silk Screening/Stripe Options 02/21/18]

FABRIC

From the exhibit at Celebration: Europe, we know that the jacket is a cotton twill, a thankfully easy material to acquire. It comes in different weights, so it's best to get something that has a nice jacket body to it.



Cassian's jacket color is a pretty basic military brown; it is a fairly neutral medium shade, being neither too yellow nor too red. Jyn, on the other hand...



Due to lighting variations in the exhibits and color correcting in the photography and film, there is a very wide range of colors for Jyn's jacket to look at. It certainly looks more colorful in the photos than in the movie itself, which may have been desaturated a bit. I also saw Anovos version at Celebration: Orlando. The woman at the booth bragged how they had the Pantone color number direct from Lucasfilms, which she would not share. I did the next best thing and brought my Pantone guide with me the next day, and this is what I pulled up:



I would call this color a "Dark Cypress"... it has a muted gray base, with a green hue with a hint of blue. The key is the colors are very muted. When I dyed my fabric, I tried to write down a formula, but had to adjust so much that it became impossible. I used dyes from DharmaTrading.com, their fiber-reactive dyes for cotton. I used Neutral Gray, Jet Black, and Muir Green. The blues/purples present in the gray and black helped to get this weird undefinable green, and depending on which lighting I'm under, I debate if the color is too bold or not enough. At first, my gray and black overpowered the green, so I set out to lighten the fabric. First, by soaking in saltwater for 3 days, then washing in hot. This didn't remove enough black, so I did a quick 30-second dunk in a 1:40 Bleach Solution, which was just enough. These "break down" techniques are actually good for this application, as newly dyed colors are rather sharp. The hot water baths help to make the fabric look a little more faded and worn.



In person, there's a hint more green to the fabric. The swatch I'm holding up I had tested brushing the fabric with a steel brush to bring up some of the fibers for a worn look (ever heard of "brushed denim"?)

[Next entry: Stripe Options / Silk Screening ]
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837


Last edited by Leia (Vera Campbell) on Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Page 3: Constructing Front 02/25/18 ]



The front of Jyn's jacket is a bit of a mystery because it's always covered up by the vest, but there is evidence of the same pockets on hers from exhibit pictures, so we can assume that all the pockets present on Cassian's jacket are the same on Jyn's, though scaled to her size of course. It's unknown if she has any similar badges to Cassian. I've noted the two fitting differences between the two jackets, the darts on the front of Jyn's, and the side buckle on Cassian's. I haven't been able to find any back shots of Cassian and all of the exhibits had the Jedha jacket over it, but we can see it in this picture, it almost looks like there's a casing of some sort on the back waistband which houses the tape that adjusts the fit. (Perhaps there's a picture of the toy somewhere that would clear this up?) I've also noted on this image certain things of note on the topstitching.



Here is my take on the pattern. The best thing I can advise on making the pattern yourself is to look at the lines of the jacket and find a pattern of similar shape that you can alter to fit the specs of the jacket. These are all the pieces for the front.




The front of the jacket has a pleat, with the fold facing the center front. There is a bit of overlapping fabric down the center front which hides the zipper. The visible side is the right, with the zipper being tucked under the pleat. This is why it's important to find a separating zipper where the pull stays on the left side. (Hard to look for those specs on the internet; I ended up taking apart thrift store jackets as the ones that can be bought at the fabric store aren't right.) The way I built mine, there is a built-in facing for the center front which goes around to the back of the pleat, in case the inside of the jacket is seen, it's finished in the front.

First, I press over the seam allowance for a finished edge, then press back the facing. Now we have a finished front edge and a finished inside edge to work with.
[url=http://www.rebelshaven.com/images/costumes/jynerso/progress/buildthread/jfront01.jpg]
[/url]

Now we're looking at the front side with the pleat pressed in. Mine is about 1 1/8" (1.125").

[url=http://www.rebelshaven.com/images/costumes/jynerso/progress/buildthread/jfront02.jpg]
[/url]

Fold back everything at the pleat edge and *Topstitch where the pleat folds back underneath, in my case, 1.125" from the edge.

Now is a good time to work out your settings for your topstitch, as it's a prominent feature on the jacket. I advise using a heavier thread, either matching or within a couple shades lighter. I couldn't find anything in the fabric store and ended up ordering Aurifil 28 Weight Thread online. I used a stitch length of 4mm.



(next up: Pockets)
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837


Last edited by Leia (Vera Campbell) on Tue Feb 27, 2018 1:42 am; edited 4 times in total
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Page 4: Constructing Back]
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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Joined: 07 Jan 2003
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Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Page 5: Constructing Sleeves]
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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Joined: 07 Jan 2003
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Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Page 6: Collar, Finishing, and Weathering]
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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