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Leather breather pouch build
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OddViking (Colin Adams)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 12:02 am    Post subject: Leather breather pouch build Reply with quote

I wanted to create a breather pouch, the one with the angled lines on it. I have seen some cast ones and a few leather ones where the lines were stitched in, but I wanted to create a functional leather pouch that looked like the movie prop:



I started thinking of sandwiching strips between two thinner layers of leather, but suddenly thought of a way to carve out the back and shape the front piece out of one thick rectangle of leather. Not counting belt loops, this is three pieces of leather for the main construction. Some of the techniques I used are fairly advanced, but you can use simpler methods on the top rounded corner that show your stitches.

Ideally leather you use is the standard non-stretchy veg tan leather. Any parts that need more shaping, like the bottom of the pouch or the corners of the lid help if they are from the "belly" edges of the hide, which allow for easier "stretching" when wet to form nice curves.

You will need:
Thick veg-tan leather (about 3/8")
Medium veg-tan leather (about 1/8")
Thinner veg-tan leather, belly cut is ideal for shaping (less than 1/8")
embroidery needles and leather needles (optional)
waxed linen thread
dark brown leather dye
leather oil of some kind
snaps
Barge cement or other leather glue
leather working tools like awls, stitching spacer, edge beveler, skiving tool, etc.

Click on images and they should open in a window where you can zoom in.


I started by taking the thick leather, and marking where the lines would go. They go up to the right on the pouch, but mark them in reverse here. I used a cheap wood U-gouge to carve out the troughs on the back side. I also used that to "skive" down the edges to the thickness of the other piece that it will be sewn to. This is really important along the bottom, as that piece will need to be "turned" backwards and will only do that if it is thin enough.


You can see in the first pic how much it was carved down. Soak the piece for a minute, and then use whatever tool to push down into the grooves from the front side. I have some special tools here I got on Amazon, but even a wooden spoon handle or a drum stick would do fine. After it is deep enough, run the tool one more time so you have an even trough without marks on it. Set aside to dry overnight.


To get that seam like on the prop, you need to sew the bottom edge of the front to the same line on the back, but inside out (shiny side touching shiny side) and then turn them back. I used a stitching spacer to make sure the holes would line up, counting to make sure they are the same. Stitch starting outside the holes so the whole seam is held strong, because the next step will try and open the seam edges. I didn't do this until I tried to turn it, so you not see it in the next pic, but I did it after.


The seam is done, so now soak as little as you can to wet the area of stitching. Turn it inside out, and use a tool to help shape and push it until it looks even with a nice curve. Make sure the corners of the sides line up before you leave it to dry. Because some water gets up into your diagonal trough lines, use your tool to re-push in those shapes at the edges before it dries. Leave it over night to dry. Don't sew the sides yet, the belt loops need to be done first.

[img][Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/ymwMNY6.jpg)[/img]
This is a difficult way of doing this corner seam, but I liked how the pouch had those smooth rounded top corners. This is a piece that goes under the main top flap. The way I did this was by using a curved awl and saddle stitching within the thickness of the leather so the seam would be invisible on the outside. You mark you stitches just in from the edge, poke a hole from that line to come out in the thickness (of this very thin leather) and then sew two threads back and forth. I used leather needles here to help find the hole or make a new one in this tight space.


When you are done, you end up with two rows of stitches on the inside, and a smooth outside. Wet the leather and shape it into a dome with anything rounded. Set aside to dry. Sew in the back loops now and then you can finish up the side seams.


You can see the pouch loops in the first image. Because of how it ended up, I had to cut a slight arch in the under lid piece to allow it to go over the seam, which you can also see in this first image. Line it up, and use an awl to mark where the under lid matches up with the over lid. I then just stitched a short line to anchor it. I used Barge Cement to glue the two together (even though the snaps will firmly anchor them, I didn't want it to arch apart when the lid opened). This kind of glue works where you put it on, squish it together, and then separate for ten minutes and let them dry to tacky, then press together. Keep this in the middle, away from the edges because any glue that squishes out will prevent stain from working.


Lightly wet it, and stain with dark brown stain. Wipe off excess (I spray it with Lexol leather conditioner and wipe it away, which helps even it out and give it some oils). Once dry, use some oil conditioner (optional) which helps it darken in the crevices and look more rich. I used some thicker paste type oil and hit it with a hair dryer to melt it in. Mark and add snaps. I lightly sanded my snaps with sand paper and painted them black to more match the original. If you want a Jedi just out of the temple, well then you can stop here.

I prefer my Star Wars more lived-in and dinged up, so I gave it a coat of black shoe polish and wiped it off, leaving it darker in the cracks. I took some 60 grit sandpaper and lightly hit it anywhere it would get scuffed during normal wear and tear. This is how it turned out:



If you would like the patterns, they can be found here. Print these pages without scaling, they are 8" by 10" and you can check it with a ruler against the one in the print. Your pattern may need to be adjusted based on leather, or normal pattern issues. This same pattern could theoretically be used for that more slender cylinder pouch by cutting out a strip from the middle.

https://i.imgur.com/7WMhakJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/flV1GWV.jpg

Good luck!


Last edited by OddViking (Colin Adams) on Mon Apr 16, 2018 2:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks really great. Very Happy But shouldn't your valleys be ridges instead? Pattern looks reversed.
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OddViking (Colin Adams)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not sure what you mean. You can see in the reference photo, those thinner lines are valleys. Look at the sides of the pouches for the indentations. Mine is the same.
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Leroni (Leroni)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonderful work! looks great!
thank you for your tutorial.

they are valleys, you can see it on the left pouch at the first picture. i also saw it not at the first view.

yours
Leroni
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Sengar
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow this is awesome!

Would you have any more info on the dimensionsof the leather for this?
Loving this pouch!
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OddViking (Colin Adams)
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never really dealt in the ounces or mm of leather. I could measure with a ruler at some point this week, if that helps? Hopefully from the photos it is sort of clear. The thick leather has to be thick enough to gouge out the troughs for the spirals. You cut the edge down to the same thickness of the back/lid leather piece, so when you stitch them together they are the same as each other. The curved corner under-lid is thinner than that, and belly leather (From the belly part of a hide).
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work! I never thought about working in reverse like that.
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Sengar
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OddViking wrote:
I have never really dealt in the ounces or mm of leather. I could measure with a ruler at some point this week, if that helps? Hopefully from the photos it is sort of clear. The thick leather has to be thick enough to gouge out the troughs for the spirals. You cut the edge down to the same thickness of the back/lid leather piece, so when you stitch them together they are the same as each other. The curved corner under-lid is thinner than that, and belly leather (From the belly part of a hide).

Thanks, but I already got the leather ai need (3.8mm, 2.5mm, and 1.8mm)

The reall stess will now be butt stitching that thing... Omg Razz
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Sengar
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally completed a version of this pouch:
Should be accurately scaled for a tall Qui-Gon pouch.

Front:


Back:


Huge thanks for the patterns!
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coffeewithbourbon ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you for the tutorial and the pattern!

I've just started on leather craft and the saddle stitch is quite a struggle..



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Sengar
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

coffeewithbourbon wrote:
thank you for the tutorial and the pattern!

I've just started on leather craft and the saddle stitch is quite a struggle..






Nice!
About the saddle stitch, look up youtube chanels like Ian Atkinson and even better Armitage Leather. Nigel Armitage has a great vimeo channel.as well that is definitely worth the money. I personally will say you shouldnnot worry about the saddle stitch not being on point since it took me a few 100m to get it relatively nice looking and consistent, and I still tend to strugge when sewing an uneven furface, like ridges. I don't use stitcing irons but do everything uaing an awl Smile
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RuiPinho ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic work!!!

Obi Wan Kenobi TPM used the same kind of pouches?

I'm working on it at the moment and I really don't want to miss!

Thank you and keep the good job.

BTW how were you able to print your pouch "blueprints" scaled?
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Sengar
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RuiPinho wrote:
Fantastic work!!!

BTW how were you able to print your pouch "blueprints" scaled?


To get the scale I needed I drew them by hand on paper with adjusted measurements.. it was a bit of a trial and error thingy Smile
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RuiPinho ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But the pouches are the same size, just the width is different, right?
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Sengar
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RuiPinho wrote:
But the pouches are the same size, just the width is different, right?


My pouch is taller as well, and a bit deeper., or at least looking rounded at the bottom seam mine is more rectangular. I'll post a pic when I get home
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