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Mon Mothma Rogue One - Standard Discussion
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Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:27 pm    Post subject: Mon Mothma Rogue One - Standard Discussion Reply with quote

While the costume is a lot like the RotJ version, is it different in the details.

From the Visual Dictionary, we can see she is wearing the brown underdress/skirt as she is in RotJ. The sleeves are pulled up and tacked, and the undershirt sleeves show.



The fabric looks different, it has a definite crinkle look to it. (This is also from the Visual Dictionary)



No information on the construction, though.

The necklace is definitely different. The lower cords have a bit of sparkle to them, and the upper cords are different colors, unlike the RotJ cords that are all



The shoulder knots are completely different.



This also shows the gathered areas of the shoulders of the tunic.

Same flat brown shoes, same haircut.

Input welcome!
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Last edited by Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon) on Mon Apr 16, 2018 10:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked this up as much as possible last autumn, but in the end I decided to go for the ROTJ version since it was safer.

A the time I was convinced that there is a seam connecting the front and back, basically over the sleeves and the shoulders. That is also logical since it would be hard to find a fabric that is long enough to allow for all the pleating on the sleeves, but if you use two pieces of fabric you basically make a tube, with a neckhole.

I think we need to specify that the fabric should have a crinkled texture to it.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's definitely more crinkled. RotJ version is more of a linen type, this is more like crinkled cotton.

I don't think this one is a tube, either. RotJ is a tunic with sleeves. I don't see anything to indicate this one isn't. There just aren't enough screen shots to know. But there is definitely a seam at the shoulder, and the sleeves, to allow for that gathering.
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PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best way that I can describe both of these costumes is oversized tablecloth with a neck hole cut in it. I know this sounds ridicules but it brings to mind the somewhat rectangular open sided garment that I am trying to conjure.

The R1 costume had more time, money, and attention invested in it. The fabric is richer and more textured, the pleating (rouching) on the sleeves is better placed and the chains of office at actually chains this time. The smaller chain holding the medallion is cording.

I have been working on gathering screen grabs of the R1 costume. The white garment is open sided like ROTJ, and self lined. I am trying to capture an image of a "top arm" seam but the rotation of the garment makes this tricky. At the neck line under the shoulder medallions you can see seams. The neckline is more of an almond shape and you can see the opening in the corners.

R1 Mothma Shoulder rotation


R1 Mothma detail


R1 Mothma Full
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that the R1 version of Mon Mothma's costume has some distinct differences. I've put together some references and resources that should help. This is going to be a long and wordy post, so I’m going to break it into pieces and have included as many pictures as I can.

The R1 costume is made up of five basic parts.

1. Hair— Short Hair, Styled to Match the Movie (Optional: Reddish Color)

2. Jewelry— Necklace Consisting of:
* Two Metallic Chains of Office
* Entwined/Twisted Silver, White, and Cream Cords
* Chandrilan Medal of Honor
* One Oval Shoulder Brooch with Crossed Cord Accents
* One Rounded Triangle Shoulder Brooch with Cord Accents in 3 Lines

3. Outer Tunic—
*Off-White (Optional: Grey Undertone)
* Crinkle Crepe
* Lined in a Plain Weave (Like Charmeuse) of the Same Color (Optional)
* Front and Back Pieces Pleated Along the Shoulder
* Seam Along the Top of the Arm from Neck to Wrist
* Boatneck Neckline
* Tucks at Elbow
* Sleeves Formed from the Sides of the Tunic

4. Under Dress—
*Chocolate Brown
* Possible Crinkle Fabric (Optional)
* Ankle Length
* Sleeves Reach Wrist, Visible under Outer Tunic

5. Shoes/Boots—
*Brown
*Flat Soled
*No visible Buckles, Zippers, Straps, or Buttons

Hair- Mothma's hair remains a short reddish bob, although the R1 version is styled in more of a modern pixie cut.



This wig is inexpensive, and is easily styled to match both the R1 version or ROTJ version:



https://smile.amazon.com/DENIYA-Brown-Short-Straight-Cosplay/dp/B01GAUR7DG/
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jewelry- Her jewelry is unique to each movie/show, although there are similarities. In both ROTJ and R1, she wears the Chandrilan Medal of Honor, and in the prequels, Clone Wars and Rebels she wears a Hanna Pendant. All versions of her jewelry include a form of Chains of Office, and the necklace is always suspended from two shoulder brooches.

Chain of Office- In R1 these appear to be silver metallic roped chains, where in ROTJ they were a thick dark grey roped cording (similar to what is used for upholstery or drapery ties). The ROTJ cords include a portion that drapes around the back of her shoulders as well (one of the thick grey roped cording pieces extend behind her shoulders). The R1 chains fall only towards her front. The R1 chains are also considerably longer, hanging to just below her bust. In ROTJ they lay on top of her bust. In both movies the chains encircle the shoulder brooches.

Joining together a couple of these may be a workable option (use a pliers to link the chains together):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSCFIIW

Cording- The Chandrilan Medal is suspended from the shoulder brooches in both movies by several intertwined/twisted thin cords. These cords are also woven around the outside edge of the medal. In ROTJ, there are four cords: a thin grey roped cord, and brown, white and cream rattail (satin finish) cords. In R1, there are three cords: a thin silver roped cord, and white and cream rattail cords. Reddish-brown rattail is also woven around the edge of the medal.

Here are some sources for rattail cording if your local fabric store doesn’t sell it by the yard:

https://www.amazon.com/White-1-5mm-yards-Rattail-Chinese/dp/B00BJTHEBO/

https://www.papermart.com/colored-rat-tail-cord/id=10620

Shoulder Brooches- The ROTJ shoulder brooches are weathered bronzed colored domes with a waved ridge through the middle. There is a deep red jewel or bead on the top. The brooches rest on coils created by the grey roped cord used to suspend the medal.

The R1 shoulder brooches are quite different. The left and right shoulders vary slightly from one another. Both are encircled with white rattail cord and then the Chain of Office is also wrapped around them. The left shoulder is an oval positioned so that the longest side is vertical. The silver rope cord is wrapped around the middle creating a vertical line, and is secured by an “X” formed by crossing white rattail cord and reddish-brown rattail cord. There are holes in the brooch similar to a button, and the ends of the “X” are threaded through these. The right shoulder brooch is an oval positioned horizontally where the bottom has been changed to create a slight point- similar to a guitar pick. It is decorated with three vertical lines of cord threaded through holes. The middle line is slightly longer than the two outside ones, and is made with the reddish-brown rattail cord. The outer cords are created with the silver cord- possibly just one strand unraveled.

Both the Medal of Honor and the shoulder brooches are pretty easily made from sculpy.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sculpey-Art-Clay-III-Silver/dp/B000H6QR9U/

Rogue One Jewelry:




(Thanks to jedibarriss for this picture):


Return of the Jedi Jewelry:




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Mon Mothma, OT X-Wing Pilot, Willrow Hood, Resistance Officer, General Leia Organa (Raddus Bridge)


Last edited by RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen) on Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:00 am; edited 3 times in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outer Tunic- The outer tunics worn in both ROTJ and R1 are constructed using rectangular pieces joined at a shoulder seam. The bottom of the rectangles are curved to create and even hem.

ROTJ shoulder seam:



R1 shoulder seam- note you can see where it extends over the elbow fold:







On the ROTJ tunic, I believe the standards need to be revised. The “sleeves” aren’t really sleeves at all, but rather an armhole is created by tacking the front and back together about 4-6 inches up from the hem. You can clearly see the tack point in the picture below. The Star Wars Costumes book says that the tunic is lined with muslin, but there is no such lining visible in the photos, and a simple rolled hem along the edges *is* clearly visible.




In these pictures, you can see the split, the tack point is hidden by her wrist.





You can see that the back of the tunic is smooth here, the only lines here are folds caused by the fabric draping.



The outer tunic worn in R1 is deceptively complicated. The tunic is lining with a color matched fabric without the crinkle texture, and there are pleats running along the seams at the shoulder. For the pleating to fall correctly, the back and front pieces were most likely flat lined and then pleated before sewing the pieces together along the shoulder seam.

The pleats can be seen here:




The lining is visible here:



Like the ROTJ version I do not believe this tunic has sleeves separate from the body.

You can see the smooth back here:




The appearance of “sleeves” is created by the natural draping of the fabric combined with the weight of the metal chains pulling the shoulders forward.




Both tunics are tucked at the elbow creating more draping around the arms. The style of tucks is a bit different, but I would suggest as long as the folds drape correctly, making the double tuck used on the R1 version optional.

Box type tuck on the ROTJ Tunic:



Double tuck used on the R1 Tunic:




The R1 tunic has a boat or bateau neckline, in contrast to the ROTJ tunic which has a round or jewel neckline.



The ROTJ tunic appears to falls just below her knees:



The R1 tunic appears slightly shorter, falling at her knees.



Crinkle fabric shown here:



This fabric works well for the R1 fashion fabric. To get a grey undertone, a *very* dilute pearl gray dip works well.

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0451339/rayon-crepe-off-white
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Last edited by RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen) on Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:02 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Under Dress- In both ROTJ and R1, she wears a brown ankle length dress with long sleeves. In ROTJ, the dress is a jersey and the sleeves reach past her wrist slightly. In R1, the dress is possibly a crinkle fabric as well (I’d suggest making that an optional item) and the sleeves stop at her wrist. It appears to be lined.



This may work for the underdress.

https://www.etsystudio.com/listing/482405368/dark-brown-cotton-gauze-fabric-52-wide

Shoes/Boots – These appear to be simple, plain flat soled shoes or boots. Both the soles and tops are brown. There *may* be a slight platform on the sole?


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Last edited by RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen) on Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I just realized I should have added this:



You can very clearly see that the front and back pieces are not sewn into sleeves on this version! The inside lining is also visible, and it helps to explain the funky draping you see in this picture:


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Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great photos.

The R1 dress looks like crinkle cotton. Or a linen with some texture, perhaps?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it would be possible to get the correct look using either? Maybe even achievable with a rayon? In any case, with the underdress it's a detail that's not noticeable unless looking super closely at a photograph, so i'd definitely suggest making it optional. I'd also suggest making lining the outer tunic optional for the same reason.
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Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RebelLady wrote:
I think it would be possible to get the correct look using either? Maybe even achievable with a rayon? In any case, with the underdress it's a detail that's not noticeable unless looking super closely at a photograph, so i'd definitely suggest making it optional. I'd also suggest making lining the outer tunic optional for the same reason.


I think as long as it has a bit of texture it would be fine. We don't need to specify a particular material. But textured woven instead of the jersey knit the RotJ version has.

I agree it doesn't need to be lined as long as it isn't see-through.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought this was approved nearly a year ago? I wrote up a version and had mine approved last April before Celebration and helped others with theirs. Was this not received ? It is included in my profile. I guess I am just confused by seeing this version after supplying one.
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jedibarriss (Teresa Becker)
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought this was approved nearly a year ago? I wrote up a version and had mine approved last April before Celebration and helped others with theirs. Was this not received ? It is included in my profile. I guess I am just confused by seeing this version after supplying one.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought this was approved nearly a year ago? I wrote up a version and had mine approved last April before Celebration and helped others with theirs. Was this not received ? It is included in my profile. I guess I am just confused by seeing this version after supplying one.
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