ANH Leia dress help- New Member

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

Hi there, This past weekend I went to FanExpo Vancouver and got tot talking with some members of the 501st and Rebel Legion and they inspired me to get my butt in gear and start the process of getting approved. I had made ANH Leia in a few days a week or so before the actual convention with submitting it in mind. It's not 100% to your standards but I made in hopes of fixing it up or at least a base to add to. Here is a link to Imgur album of some progress shots https://imgur.com/a/cyuKt and I'll explain what I know is missing and what mine has. I know I need to get a wig and better shoes, these worked for the convention but I do plan on getting them when I have the money. My dress is just a single layer, it doesn't have a lining and I hand hemmed it so no top stitching is viable. My belt is made from foam because it worked for the time I needed but I do plan on making it out of thicker material with metal pieces for those little metal parts. My collar was a rush job as even though I've been sewing for 5 years they still give me issues so I need to fix how that looks and add the key hole in the back. Any help would be amazing as I'd love to be a part of this amazing group

ps I hope the link works I'm new to forums lol

[Lora Skywalker ()]

Hello there.

Glad to have you here.
The basic shape of your dress looks pretty good. Did you do the gathering stitch under the belt?
Of course the dress will need to be self-lined, and it currently is too short for you judging from your last picture.
I can see that the hood is also attached too far to the front of the collar, so that fabric will also need to be gathered more and sewn on in the back only.
Keyhole should almost go down to the edge of the shoulder blades, but not quite. It's basically a long slit.

Oh, and add a softer top curve to your belt when you remake it. The most common mistakes with the belt is doing a sharp curve rather than a soft curve.

Best of luck with it.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

No I don’t have a gathering stitch under the belt, I don’t think I’ve ever seen one because the references I used, some already members of the Legion, didn’t have it so I wasn’t sure. I made this for a con so I didn’t add the keyhole because the collar was being weird but I knew to add it. That’s another thing I’m having issues on is the collar because all of my mock ups turned out horrible and I’m still having issues with it.

Thanks for the advice though I can’t wait to pickup more fabric to start fixing all of this!

(Took me forever to find the reply button lol)

[Lora Skywalker ()]

The gathering stitch isn't required, but it helps keep the fabric in place and at the right place under the belt. I do recommend adding it. Otherwise the blousing over the belt will likely not stay in place as gravity pulls on the fabric.

Best of luck with the collar; they can be tricky little things. Getting the right curve and getting it to stand up and all that.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

Ah ok, I’ll definitely see if I can add that. I’ll see once I get my fabric how it works and looks and figure it out from there. I might just end up buying a pattern that has a collar that works because that might be less of a hassle than making one from scratch

[Lora Skywalker ()]

That is one way to do it. Whatever works and gives you the right end result.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

I cut my fabric today lining and all and heres what a day of work looks like https://imgur.com/a/GPmce the hood is just pinned on becuase I wanted to see if the placement was good with you guys. I have to hem the sleeves and bottom as well but I'm doing that another day. I'm also cutting the keyhole when the collar is put on so I know it will look ok

[Lora Skywalker ()]

Best of luck. I recommend finishing the sleeves and bottom seams separately so you can do it right sides together and turn it right sides out through the collar.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[CiaoBirdie ()]

I'm not a judge but I have an approved ANH Leia. A couple of things I would recommend: I would try to make the edges of the belt smoother, you can kind of see where it was cut and it is a little uneven - an easy fix.

Also, when you do your buns for submission, make sure they go almost to the top of your head. This is something my costume judge told me I needed to fix when I submitted, so I just wanted to give you a heads up.

Good luck! It's looking great so far!
_________________
Approved:
Princess Leia (ANH)
Magmatrooper (TX-12931)

https://www.facebook.com/ciaobirdiecosplay

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

I don’t really understand what you mean by finishing the seems then pulling it through the collar. Also don’t worry Ciaobirdie that’s the old belt I don’t plan on submitting it

[Lora Skywalker ()]

Hmm, it's kind of hard to explain in words alone... but you sewn things together rights sides and then turn it inside out so the seams are all hidden on the inside, sandwiched between the two layers. But to do it you need a 'hole' where you haven't sewn the two layers together, otherwise you can't turn the fabric around.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

Ah ok, I think I’ll figure it out. Also I pinned the collar on and another Leia was helping and I think it’s in a good position to be seen on. Also made another collar mock up and I think this one might work with some more fiddling ( Red was the only fabric I had right now) but I wanted to get second opinions before I started sewing https://imgur.com/a/DGTBu

[Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)]

The collar shape looks good in front but it is difficult to see how it will finally lay as you have it tied in a knot which is not how it will finally lay. I would also cut the keyhole opening in the back and attach this to the lining before adding the hood as this will help you know when to stop your gathers. I am not sure if you already did it but stay-stitch the neck openings ASAP to avoid stretch as you figure things out.

It is hard to tell in the pictures but your hood also may be too long, the Padawans Guide has a Ton if great photos for this costume to help you. Good luck and thanks for sharing!
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Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge

[StarryEyedMaiden (Cecelia Mabee)]

The collars not tired in a knot I just made this pattern too long so tha the over lap. The pinning is seen to the main fabric so I’m good on that front. I’ve been putting off cutting the keyhole as the first dress I made when I put the keyhole in it ruined my collar pattern but I think I made my neck hole and collar pattern ok this time so it should work out if I cut the key hole at this stage, how long is it ment to be again I forget if I saw a proper length or not. Also my hood uses the same measurements as that one really popular tutorial that is in most of these Leia forums and another Leia linked me too it so it might just be the pictures because i think it covers the back of the belt where the 8th plate would be, at this stage I can shorten it though since it’s just pinned down at this point

Thanks for all this help guys

[Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)]

Hood Should hit past belt and at top of your bottom

http://www.padawansguide.com/originaltrilogy/anh4.jpg

Keyhole should end about mid shoulder blade

http://www.padawansguide.com/originaltrilogy/keyhole.jpg
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge