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ALL READ: New/Unfinished Costume Standards
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StoyBoy720 (Bryan Patrick Stoyle)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anasian Skywalker wrote:
Luke Skywalker (Episode IV: A New Hope, Tatooine Costume)

Required Items:

  1. White/off-white tunic w/side slits below waist on both sides
  2. Brown leather belt w/two ammo pouches and triangular pouch
  3. Tan pants
  4. Tan ankle length shoes (no laces) - preferrably suede or canvas, w/matching puttees (leg wraps)
  5. Droid caller
  6. Luke's ANH hero lightsaber hilt



Optional Items:

  1. Light brown poncho with dark brown trim
  2. Light tan floppy hat and black framed aviator goggles w/black strap
  3. Brown long tool pouch
  4. Macrobinoculars
  5. Blast shield helmet




I don't know how I feel about leaving one of the pouches as an optional item. For the sake of ease it sounds like a good idea, but the Han Solo ANH belt standards are SO tight, I feel that Luke's should at least include that pouch, if not also the D ring, and the two clips (for the droid caller and the saber).

Also, should the lightsaber be a necessary item? It sounds silly, but one could theoretically do a Luke farmboy costume from before he receives the lightsaber. He does go most of the first act of the movie without it.

I also think the boot description could be written a little better, something like:



  1. Tan colored cloth laceless boots
  2. Tan colored leg wrappings (puttees), similar or matching to boots, from ankle to knee



The puttees were not an EXACT match to the boots, there's a bit of leeway there, but not a lot.

Since the legs are wrapped the boots could be longer than ankle length. MotorCowboy for example sells boots for ANH Luke that, while are inaccurate in many regards, does go up to the knee. As long as the leg wrappings are covering up to the knee you would never really know.
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Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kay_Dee wrote:
. So does that mean that for example, on the Family Gown, I need to have one line that talks about the top, the beads, the buttons, the fabric, the leaf shaped clips, and the cut of the garment? That is a lot of info for one bullet point. That's why I broke it up.

That is the whole point, the list should not be too long.

Padmé Amidala (Episode II: Attack of the Clones, Purple Senate Gown)
Kay_dee's edits look fine for this costume.


Here is my suggested edit for:

Padmé Amidala (Episode II: Attack of the Clones, Deleted Naberrie Residence ‘Family’ Gown)

Required Items:


  1. Long sleeved mid-drift cropped turtleneck made of pastel aqua crinkled fabric with open back and long tabs wrapping from the sides meeting at the waist of the center back. Embellishments at seams on the front are string of trochus shells or similar beads. Decorative blue leaf clip at bottom center front. Turtleneck collar back has buttons of pearl or satin covered with an antique gold or brass metal edge.
  2. Floor length wrap around skirt of pastel aqua crinkled fabric flairs out from the knees to the hem. Small decorative button at the top of the wrap opening – same as buttons on turtleneck collar.
  3. Shoes are dress pumps with a pointed closed toe (most likely sling backs) that are dyed to match or silver.
  4. Triangular shaped matching blue headband (preferably with metallic 'rub n buff' finish) with a geometric pattern. Hair worn pulled back in band with cascading curls down back. Naturally-occurring hair colors only.


Costume Resources:

1. Padawan's Guide family costume page
2. Kay_Dee’s Family Gown Page

Padmé Amidala (Episode II: Attack of the Clones, Deleted Naberrie Residence ‘family’ gown with Cloak)

Required Items:

  1. Long sleeved mid-drift cropped turtleneck made of pastel aqua crinkled fabric with open back and long tabs wrapping from the sides meeting at the waist of the center back. Embellishments at seams on the front are string of trochus shells or similar beads. Decorative blue leaf clip at bottom center front. Turtleneck collar back has buttons of pearl or satin covered with an antique gold or brass metal edge.
  2. Floor length wrap around skirt of pastel aqua crinkled fabric flairs out from the knees to the hem. Small decorative button at the top of the wrap opening – same as buttons on turtleneck collar.
  3. Hooded floor length cloak of pale ivory panne velvet, fastened with a pearly-beige rectangular clasp. Long sleeves extend to roughly 1.5-2 feet from the ground. The cloak may also have a pale blue burn-out dragonfly design on the front.
  4. Shoes are dress pumps with a pointed closed toe (most likely sling backs) that are dyed to match or silver.
  5. Triangular shaped matching blue headband (preferably with metallic 'rub n buff' finish) with a geometric pattern. Hair worn pulled back in band with cascading curls down back. Naturally-occurring hair colors only.


Costume Resources:

1. Padawan's Guide family costume page
2. Kay_Dee’s Family Gown Page
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Last edited by Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd) on Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:10 pm; edited 6 times in total
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sugested edit:

Padmé Amidala (Episode III: Revenge of the Sith, Water/End/Funeral Gown)

Required Items:

  1. Sleeveless, floor-length tube dress of blue/aqua crinkled fabric, that is shirred/smocked/gathered horizontally from the top to the natural waist. Neckline is decorated with strand of tiny blue beads or stones extending from each side of centered blue crystal. Costumer should appear pregnant.
  2. Floor length cloak of multi-colored blue, green, & aqua velvety fabric with a wave pattern and random sequins on cloak, sequined collar. Multiple sequined tails extending from the edge of the collar on each side down the front of the cloak. No closure, worn open, resting on the shoulders.
  3. Shoes are coordinating closed-toe shoe.
  4. Hair is worn down in full loose curls with white and yellow flowers and curled strands of ribbons in shades of blue and aqua. Naturally-occurring hair colors only.



Costume Resources:


  1. Padawan's Guide Water Gown Page
  2. gofasterstrawberry's Water Gown Page

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StoyBoy720 (Bryan Patrick Stoyle)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my full proposed edit based off of Dale's initial proposal:

Luke Skywalker (Episode IV: A New Hope, Tatooine Costume)

Required Items:

  1. White/Off-White Tunic w/Side Slits Below Waist on Both Sides
  2. 2" Wide Brown Leather Belt with Rectangular Silver, Marked-Up Buckle, 2 D-ring Clips, and 1 D-ring
  3. Belt Pouches: 2 Brown Ammunition Pouches, 1 Long Tool Pouch, 1 Triangular Pouch
  4. Tan Pants
  5. Tan-Colored Cloth, Laceless Boots
  6. Tan-Colored Leg Wrappings (Puttees), Very Similar or Matching Color to Boots, From Ankle to Knee
  7. Droid Caller


Optional Items:

  1. Luke's ANH Lightsaber (or Hilt)
  2. Light Brown Poncho w/ Dark Brown Trim
  3. Light Tan Floppy Hat and Black Framed Aviator Goggles w/ Black Strap
  4. Macrobinoculars
  5. Blast Shield Helmet


Costume Resources:


Obi-Wan's Jedi Academy Luke Skywalker Lightsaber Tutorial
Project Graflex Tutorials
Graflica Tutorial
Parts of Star Wars Luke Skywalker Tatooine page
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gofasterstrawberry (sara pope)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Queen Amidala wrote:
Sugested edit:

Padmé Amidala (Episode III: Revenge of the Sith, Water/End/Funeral Gown)

Required Items:

  1. Sleeveless, floor-length tube dress of blue/aqua crinkled fabric, that is shirred/smocked/gathered horizontally from the top to the natural waist. Neckline is decorated with strand of tiny blue beads or stones extending from each side of centered blue crystal. Costumer should appear pregnant.


my only issue with this is that I specifically left out the word "smocked" because the dress is not in fact smocked. The process of smocking involves stitching on top of the gathered fabric, which is not done on padme's dress. It is merely shirred, which is un-smocked gathers. I know the word is used in some official descriptions of the costume, but it just isn't smocked, I blew up high res photos and studied them for hours to make sure of this and I am certain about it. The other changes are fine with me.
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Kay_Dee (Kathy)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mary-Alice,

Your Padme family gown edits look fine to me. The only thing I was thinking of omitting as an actual requirement were the pearl buttons from the back of the turtleneck. They are very hard to spot, and I could barely make out this detail in the runway show photos. (I'm not a fan of requiring details for membership that we can't see).

I also don't know if it is relevant, but the real Purple Senate dress is not made of satin. I'm pretty certain it is silk... probably a unique faille weave or a high quality shantung. It may be better to edit the description to read "Satin/Bridal Silk" to cover the true range of fabric possibilities.
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gofasterstrawberry (sara pope)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kay_Dee wrote:

I also don't know if it is relevant, but the real Purple Senate dress is not made of satin. I'm pretty certain it is silk... probably a unique faille weave or a high quality shantung. It may be better to edit the description to read "Satin/Bridal Silk" to cover the true range of fabric possibilities.


just thought I'd insert my opinion here, I haven't done near the research on this one that Kay_Dee has, but from what I can tell, the dress appears to be made from a fabric called Silk Super Satin. It is a bridal fabric, very different from any satin you would find at your corner fabric store, much more matte, and heavy, but still smooth, which is the only reason that I wouldn't say that it might be a peau de soie, which would be a bit less smooth. from some photos it looks like it could possibly be a silk taffeta, but then looking at the drape and hem on the more hi res shots it definitely seems to be the silk super satin. I have some samples laying around here, I'll see if i can get a good photo of it, so you guys can judge for yourselves. I do agree with Kay_Dee's suggestion in order to keep it more generalized. especially since the super satin is between $50 and $80 per yard.

like I said, this is just my take on it, my degree is in textiles and I used to work as a designer in a bridal shop, so I thought it might be helpful if I chimed in, since in a way, you're both right!

also, I know we ordered the silk super satin from either Exotic Silks or JB Silks, so they probably still supply it.
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Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kay_Dee wrote:
I also don't know if it is relevant, but the real Purple Senate dress is not made of satin. I'm pretty certain it is silk... probably a unique faille weave or a high quality shantung. It may be better to edit the description to read "Satin/Bridal Silk" to cover the true range of fabric possibilities.

Another Fashion Design and Fabric Science Major chiming in here.

To clarify: Silk is a fiber and satin is a weave. So Satin can be made from Silk, as well as other natural or man-made fibers.

Also "bridal silk" is not really description I would use, as "bridal" is not a specific weave and I would not specify silk due to the cost factor. It is also hard to tell the fiber content of a fabric just by looking at photo of the costume submitted for membership.

If someone can make a good looking gown out of $1.99 polyester satin and have it have same basic look as a $20 per yard silk satin, then more power to them. It is the texture, weight, hand (drape) of the fabric that is most important, not the fiber content.

The types of fabric Kay_Dee and gofasterstrawberry have listed come from three categories of weaves: Satin, Rib and Plain Weave.

Quote:
From: http://www.fabrics-manufacturers.com

Satin Weave http://www.fabrics-manufacturers.com/satin-weave.html
Satin weave is a more flexible type of weave than the plain weave but it is more complicated. In this weave construction, the interlacing of the threads are arranged in such a way that the face of the cloth is covered with the warp yarn or filling yarn and no twill line is distinguishable. It is made by "floating" warp or weft yarns across many yarns to bring them to the surface. If filament fibers are used such as silk or nylon, the resulting fabric is termed as "satin." If the short-staple yarns are used like cotton, the corresponding fabric is said to be a "sateen." In satin, the float is in warp direction where as in sateen, it is in the filling direction.

Peau de Soie, also known, as "Paduasoy" is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs. It is medium to heavyweight drapeable fabric having a satin weave. Peau de Soie do not get dyed to dark colors. It is least affected by the ultra violet light.

Rib Weave http://www.fabrics-manufacturers.com/rib-weave.html
Rib weave is a basic weave pattern which is characterized by prominent ribs in the weft. In this type of weave, the warp yarns and the filling yarns are of different widths. Usually the filling yarns are fatter than the warp yarns. It creates a series of horizontal ribs.

Faille is a technique of fabric construction, which creates a corded effect. It is a medium weight fabric with noticeable cross-wise ribs. It is sometimes even referred to as flat-ribbed. It is glossy soft and dressy. It wears and drapes well. It is smooth with a lustrous finish. Faille belongs to a family of grosgrain, a strong close woven corded fabric, but it is finer. The ribs of faille are flatter than in grosgrain.

Plain Weave http://www.fabrics-manufacturers.com/plain-weave.html Plain weave is a basic style of weaves, which have the weft and warp threads intertwined in an alternate way to produce a checkerboard effect.

Shantung silk fabric, usually referred to as 'raw silk', is of medium-weight and plain-weave. The fabric has irregular surface with rough and nubby appearance. It has natural sheen with bright luster.

In most cases we do not specify what fiber you need to use for the fabric, just the general type of weave.

IMHO, we should not be getting so bogged down and specific about the exact type of fabric and/or fiber, as it is often hard for the costumer to find and/or out of the budget for some. I think "Satin" was used on the list, as it evokes the general thought of "shiny fabric" as opposed to "dull/flat fabric" with no shine or gloss. Faille and Shantung also has a sheen/gloss but sometimes the ribbing, on faille, or the nubs/slubs, on a shantung, can be very pronounced. Looking at http://www.padawansguide.com/purple.shtml I really don't see pronounced ribs or slubs, hence the listing of "Satin" seems OK to me.
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Last edited by Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd) on Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Queen Amidala wrote:
Sugested edit:

Padmé Amidala (Episode III: Revenge of the Sith, Water/End/Funeral Gown)

Required Items:

  1. Sleeveless, floor-length tube dress of blue/aqua crinkled fabric, that is shirred/smocked/gathered horizontally from the top to the natural waist.

gofasterstrawberry wrote:
...my only issue with this is that I specifically left out the word "smocked" because the dress is not in fact smocked. The process of smocking involves stitching on top of the gathered fabric, which is not done on padme's dress. It is merely shirred, which is un-smocked gathers. I know the word is used in some official descriptions of the costume, but it just isn't smocked, I blew up high res photos and studied them for hours to make sure of this and I am certain about it. The other changes are fine with me.

Per http://www.padawansguide.com/water.shtml
Quote:
The bodice of this gown is actually finely smocked.

So you will need to hash out the research with Maggie. Wink If a respected source like Padawan's Guide has it published as "smocked" and a costumer makes the gown with smocking and then the LCR classifies their costume as Informal due to using smocking, I don't think that would be very fair. Crying or Very sad

That is why I listed multiple techniques for getting the fabric from flat to gathered. As long as the end result, regardless of the technique used looks close to the original, it should be acceptable as Formal.
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Last edited by Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd) on Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Queen Amidala (Mary Alice Ladd)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kay_Dee wrote:
Mary-Alice,

Your Padme family gown edits look fine to me. The only thing I was thinking of omitting as an actual requirement were the pearl buttons from the back of the turtleneck. They are very hard to spot, and I could barely make out this detail in the runway show photos. (I'm not a fan of requiring details for membership that we can't see).

I only put in the pearl button info for collar and skirt because you had them in your original text; which I was just putting into the style and format that we have been using for other Amidala/Padme costumes. I too think they are a bit too icky picky detail, and probably could be dropped from the lists.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Padmé Amidala/Skywalker (Clone Wars, Lilac Diamonds)

Required Items:

  1. Strapless bodice with diamond pattern of lilac, lavender, orchid fabric, with scalloped and teardrop ornament at center front. Strings of pearls drape loosely over upper arms, attached to bodice at either side of ornament. Sheer long triangular sleeves attach under arms and end with tassels at point.
  2. V-shaped hip belt in lilac, lavender, orchid with petal and flower design and end with tassel at point at center front.
  3. Floor length mermaid cut skirt of graduated lilac, lavender, orchid fabric. Sheer ruffled petals/scallops cascading down back of skirt flowing into a semi-circle train.
  4. Hair parted in middle and smoothed into three part headpiece of lilac, lavender, orchid petal design, that coordinates with belt. One flower ornament at center of forehead and strings of pearls draped loosely into two cones at sides of head. Hair in buns emerging from cones. Naturally-occurring hair colors only.


Costume Resources:

  1. Padawan's Guide Clone Wars Costumes

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gofasterstrawberry (sara pope)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said, there are some direct sources that say smocked, Maggie quotes them on her site, I think it might even be the book, (which certainly should be a reliable source!) but trust me, smocking involves gathering the fabric, then stitching elaborate embroidery type stitches on top of the gathers.....you can clearly see that that isn't done on the dress in any photos, and I seriously doubt that anyone would go the extra mile of doing something that would very much make it not look at all like any of the photos....it would be adding in a completely new detail to the dress, which would look nice, but wouldn't be in any way accurate to the original.

This site has a lot of information regarding smocking:
http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/3351/smkstch.html

there is also North American smocking, which is indeed used very prominently in another of padme's outfits, I would LOVE to see it done!

http://www.smockingstore.com/images/lattice.gif

since the most common form of smocking seen these days involves a honeycomb stitch on sun dresses, similar to the style of the dress Padme wears, it is a perfectly understandable bit of confusion...her's is gathered in the same way, but is not smocked. In the close up photos you can see bits of thread between the gathers, which are the gathering stitches themselves, they peek through between the folds, especially if it is hand gathered instead of on a pleating machine.
*********
As for the senate gown fabric, as Mary Alice says, satin is the weave, which is why I specified that it looks to be a silk satin, as poly satins are much shinier and usually a lot lighter in weight and drape. I was merely pitching in my thoughts as to what it actually is, not at all suggesting it as being part of the standards! I agree, as long as you find something that looks the part, then it shouldn't really matter what the fiber content or weave is!
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gofasterstrawberry wrote:
...smocking involves gathering the fabric, then stitching elaborate embroidery type stitches on top of the gathers.....

Smocking doesn’t necessarily have to be gathering plus embroidery and/or surface stitching.

Per http://www.smocking.org/files/Glossary-Smocking.pdf which is posted at http://www.smocking.org/smocking_101.php
Quote:
Backsmocking: One or more rows of smocking on the wrong side of fabric in the same color as the fabric. May be used to
(1) invisibly maintain or stabilize pleats in areas where there are no surface stitches or (2) to create texture or a shadow pattern.

So we could get more picky and say backsmocking. But I think that a costumer get's the idea that it is a gathered fabric technique, and is not going to cover the gathers/pleats with little ducks, hearts, or other embroidery motifs commonly associated with smocking.
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Kay_Dee (Kathy)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Queen Amidala wrote:

To clarify: Silk is a fiber and satin is a weave. So Satin can be made from Silk, as well as other natural or man-made fibers.


Yes, I know all of this. If you go into many high end fabric stores all of the heavier silks are in a section called "Bridal Silks." I was looking for a commonly known term to encompass varying weaves of the heavier dress fabrics that are suitable for this costume outside of the satin weave. If you know of a better term that's fine.

gofasterstrawberry - I'll shoot you a message Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you're right, I left out backsmocking as an option, due to the fact that if it were in fact back smocked, there would be no visible threads between the folds, as I mentioned before are visible in photos of the dress.

but none of this is all that important, it is not a necessary word to add into a list of REQUIRED elements, as smocking is definitely not necessary to make the dress look appropriately similar to the original, regardless of whether you think it is present or not.
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