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The Swiss Miss Han Solo (ANH) WIP
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Blair (Vlastimil Sprta)
Lion Base CO
Lion Base CO


Joined: 26 Apr 2010
Posts: 5391
Location: Brno / Slavicin
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe Solo wrote:
Blair wrote:
As ANH blaster contain also lot of small parts - I would not recommend 3d print (in case you don't have a printer of your own Wink ), because it is not easy to clean and brush ... Sad


That depends on the model you find, download and print. There are some decent 3D models available on the net.

Prime, sand paint and that's it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwh0ak0o6CU&feature=youtu.be


Of course Wink ... I just mean, it take a time (and some skills) to clean layers / structure of 3d print ... to not be recognized as 3d print Smile
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Ritin Kornas ()
Swiss Outpost CO
Swiss Outpost CO


Joined: 09 Jun 2009
Posts: 338
Location: Switzerland
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well no ! First if you have a good printer and print with small layer (0.1 mm or less) you can almost not see the layers, exact being really close, and I'm know even sure it would not be filled by the primer. Plus for some cylinder part it can looks like a nice "turned" metal piece the layer.

Also if you print in ABS plastic (far better for lots of reasons than PLA when it comes to props), just sand a little bit, and then brush the surface with acetone humidified fabric(or something similar, sponge full of acetone, ...), it melts ABS and smooth the surface. You can also use what is called "acetone vapor smoothing" technique, you will find videos on youtube explaining that.

With the acetone trick, it because reeeeaaaallly easy to get nice surfaces.


So you are from Switzerland Rusope ? Smile It would be nice to meet you and see the costume once finished ! Will you be in Morges for Swiss Fantasy Show the 22/23 October ? Rebel Legion Swiss Outpost will have a stand there, don't hesitate to stop by and say Hi ! I will not be directly on the stand most of the stand as I will go with my work (PlanetS stand, science), but at least our CO will be there most of the time !

Also, I have a 3D printer (which will be at the convention). If you want I could 3D print a DL-44 for you after Morges (before Morges the printer is totally busy with props for the stand of RL and PlanetS ! ^^)
I would not charge the use of the printer, just the cost of the plastic (I use ABS). I think it would cost something like 20 to 40 CHF, comparing with the printing cost of a Scout Trooper Blaster... when really only the plastic as to be paid Wink

Let me know if you are interested.
Where are you from in Switzerland ?
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rusope (Ruth Sonja)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 22 Aug 2016
Posts: 95
Location: Switzerland
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PM sent Very Happy
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Ancient Chinese Secret ()



Joined: 24 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Ruth! Your painted Rubies blaster looks awesome! I just bought and painted three of them - one for me, and two for a couple of friends. One thing you can do that is super-easy is to drill out those holes in the flash suppressor on the front of the gun - most of the divots are already in place, ready to be drilled!

My advice is to start with a drill bit that is actually smaller than the holes you ultimately want, and drill pilot holes right in the middle of where the final holes will go. Then follow-up with the final drill bit.

If you want to be really intrepid, make an extra set of holes directly on the top and bottom of the flash suppressors - for some reason, the toy doesn't have divots there.

You'll probably need to re-paint after this, because drilling will expose some of the orange plastic. Good luck!
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Han_Solo81 ()
Italian Base CO
Italian Base CO


Joined: 03 Nov 2014
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Location: Milano
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, everyone help you, so i give other little help.

Here my boots:



They are equestrian leather boots. Yours one seems too short in my opinion.

Here my bloodstrips:



They are handmade

The DL-44 is a resin kit (Doopydos) that i worked and colored:





Greetings from Italy
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rusope (Ruth Sonja)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 22 Aug 2016
Posts: 95
Location: Switzerland
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ancient Chinese Secret wrote:
Hello Ruth! Your painted Rubies blaster looks awesome! I just bought and painted three of them - one for me, and two for a couple of friends. One thing you can do that is super-easy is to drill out those holes in the flash suppressor on the front of the gun - most of the divots are already in place, ready to be drilled!

My advice is to start with a drill bit that is actually smaller than the holes you ultimately want, and drill pilot holes right in the middle of where the final holes will go. Then follow-up with the final drill bit.

If you want to be really intrepid, make an extra set of holes directly on the top and bottom of the flash suppressors - for some reason, the toy doesn't have divots there.

You'll probably need to re-paint after this, because drilling will expose some of the orange plastic. Good luck!


Hi! I did know that I can drill those little holes but I didn't dare - and quite frankly didn't care too because I might get a better blaster anyway (some time in the future...)

Thanks anyway for your advice and your nice words! I love how a little paint can totally transform a cheap toy!
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rusope (Ruth Sonja)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 22 Aug 2016
Posts: 95
Location: Switzerland
Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Han_Solo81 wrote:
Hi, everyone help you, so i give other little help.

They are equestrian leather boots. Yours one seems too short in my opinion.


Hi! Thanks for your advice too! I will use other boots for myself and they go up to almost to my knee so I will be fine.
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rusope (Ruth Sonja)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 22 Aug 2016
Posts: 95
Location: Switzerland
Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NEWS ON MY HAN SOLO

Well first, there's no real news because there have been sooooo many other things going on that I didn't work on Han for months now. Shame on me I know I know....

And the other news is this: I said in my initial post that I was doing Han for my husband. Well life's a b**. We are getting divorced (don't worry about me, because it was me who broke up with him).
What does this mean? I am now doing Han for myself!! Yay! So nothing really changes. I even have black riding boots that are perfect for Han:



The only thing I don't have yet is the hardware and real leather for his holster...

Anyway, don't get too excited right now - I won't be working on Han until the second half of 2017. There just too many other projects I want to finish first (one is a Sabé handmaiden dress I want to finish for a big Con at the end of April, the others are non Legion / non Star Wars cosplays...) plus since I'm getting divorced I need to find a job and once I've got one my time for working on costumes will be cruelly limited.... But no matter what, Han will happen!
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rusope (Ruth Sonja)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 22 Aug 2016
Posts: 95
Location: Switzerland
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sewed my Han Solo shirt a while ago and thought I'd post a little walk-through, especially regarding the collar.


1. PATTERN

I used a generic long-sleeve shirt pattern I already had as a starting point for the pattern. It's pretty straight forward really. Front, back, sleeve, and two rectangles for the collar and slit facing. The pieces for the facing are 2 inches wide and 2-3 inches longer than the slit. The pieces for the collar are about 2.5 inches wide and the lenght equals the circumference of the neckhole.




2. CONSTRUCTION

a) Join the front and back in the shoulder and side seams



b) Facing on the LEFT side of the slit: stitch the facing to the slit (right side on right side). I stitched 7mm from the edge at the top and sewed slightly diagonal so the stitching line eventually hit the edge - right at the end of the slit.



Iron the seam (seam allowance goes into the facing) and fold the opposite edge of the facing. This has to be slightly slanted as well so it mirrors the first edge.



Fold the facing in half, iron.



Fold it over once more (so it is on the inside of the garment), iron.



Pin it in place while doing the other half.

c) Facing on the RIGHT side of the slit: Sew the facing to the slit, see above. Again with a sloping stitching line.



Again, iron the allowance of the seam into the facing, fold the opposite edge.



Fold it in half and iron again.



Pin it in place. this half of the slit shows the facing (as in a polo shirt), the other half doesn't. Lay the overlaping part of the facing into the garment.



d) Finish the facing: Top stitch close to the edge on the left side and close to where the facing attaches on the right side.



Lay both of the overlapping ends of the facings on each other, pin them to the fabric so they lay straight. Top stitch from where the top stitching of the facing ends straight down for about 2 inches.



This is what it looks like on the inside:



e) Sew the collar like a normal band collar.



f) Sew the sleeves. Sew them into the garment. Sew all the hems. Voilà!




The finishing touch would be to weather the shirt slightly (probalby gonna tea-dye it).
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