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ROTJ Leia "Ewok Dress"

 
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La Licorne Ailée ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 8:01 am    Post subject: ROTJ Leia "Ewok Dress" Reply with quote

Hello,
I am Ivy, from the French Fleur de Lys Delegation Smile

I am currently working on a Leia dress, the one she wears while have the party in the Ewok Village.
I made the pattern some weeks ago, and then I red some of your threads here about the pattern of this dress, and I am worried about the skirt part :/

I made mine in four parts (for one side), so eight parts for both sides). Part 1 is from center front to a quarter of the waist line (still talking about half the waist line, as I made it symetrical, except from the front panel "ground line" ). Part 2 is from the quarter of the waist line to the side line. Part 3 begins 5cm under the second panel, to be sure they cover each other on the side, and goes to three quarter of the waist line, so in the beginning of the back. And part 4 goes from three quarter of the waist line to the center back.

Here are some pictures I took from the draping I made on one of my dummies (the closest to my measurements, so I don't have much changes to make afterwards).
Front, side, then back.
(don't think too much about the "ground lines", the are not definitive, and we can't see the pen lines very much on the pictures).





I am worried, because I saw some of you did another layer of skirt underneath, with shorter panels .
Do I have to do the same, or is the pattern I made good enough ?
I intend to use the exact same materials as they did in the movie ( so leather chamois and silk crepe ), I know how to work both.

Another question is : I didn't manage to find (so far) clear images of the back of her dress. I wish to make a corset lacing, is it okay ? I feel strange about putting a zip on a dress supposely made by Ewoks :p

Thank you for reading me, and eventually helping me to make the less mistakes possible so I can try and validate the costume ^^
(and sorry for my mistakes in English, don't hesitate to correct me, I only wish to improve my english ;-) )
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Ivy Smile

I have done this and making the pattern for the skirt was a long process.
First off, some questions. Those panels on your mock up, are they to be sewn together or simply hang so they overlap? And are you intending to mirror them on the other side?

I can tell you right away that the skirt is asymmetrical. The shortest part is just above the right knee, and the longest are the three points that goes about halfway down the shin. Everything else is inbetween.

The skirt consist of two layers. One layer starts at the front right side princess seam and go all the way around and ends just past the front right side princess seam (closer to the middle). There should be a small overlap with the left overlapping the right.
This skirt starts just above the right knee, goes diagonally down past the left, and then curve back up to knee height on the left side. It then runs around the back and starts going gently downward while doing so, so that it is below the knee when it comes around to the right side, and it ends in a point in front of the right leg, about halfway down the shin.

Okay, so the second layer is on top of the first, and this only covers the left side. It starts about 1/3 of the way between the middle front seam and the front left side princess seam. This starts as one of the low points, hanging down to the middle of your shin, and it is bend back a little so it shows the backside of the hide. It then curves up past the knee on the left side, before curving back down and ending in the last low point behind your left leg. It is also bend back a little to show the backside of the hide.

I hope that helps you otherwise I don't mind trying to clarify. The important points here are that the skirt is asymmetrical, consists of two layers, one layer goes all the way around, the other only covers the left side, and the skirt has three low points; two on the front, one in the back.


I'm afraid that a corset lace closure would be quite visible and no pictures show a visible closure.
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La Licorne Ailée ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all, I wish to apologize for the delay...
Eventhought I couldn't work on the corrections of the pattern in September, I could have thanked you for your answer so quick and complete !
So, thank you so much, and sorry for the delay...

Well, I red your explanations slowly and point by point, and I think I got everything right ^^
I was really far, oh dear ! :p
So I tried to make a drawing of your description, here it is, so you can tell me what is wrong, if so :

So the first layer is in black, the second layer on top is in red.

I have decided for a zip on the center back (very strange for me to use one on a "fantasy" costume :p ) But you are right, there's no indication she has a lacing.

I will soon be buying the silk crepe for the sleeves. Do you agree that the fabric is not pure white, but rather off white (blanc cassé) ?

For the hair, I strongly hesitate...because I have naturally the right lenght (even a bit too much for her... mine reach mid-thigh ^^' ) but I'm more often with redhead color (when I'm naturaly her hair color, but I always dye my hair ). One dying per year, one year red, one year ginger. But in the meantime, the dying passes, and the natural comes back...
What do you think ?
Could I have a chance to be validated with my natural hair ?

Thanks a gain for you help and support !!
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silvermitt ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you were reading my thread, keep in mind I'm a novice seamstress (getting better though) and THAT dress was my absolute first costume attempt, and I had some help. I made mistakes and misunderstood some directions. Take my WIP build with a deer salt block if you will....

Listen to Lora, she's all over this one. Smile
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello again. Smile Nice to see you are moving along with the sketching. I know it's hard to explains these things in writing without visual aid. But your sketch is very good! Of course, there should be some curving involved rather than straight lines all over, but you got the basic shape right. Well done. I spend forever getting those curves right... (the overskirt (left side skirt) has a very, very slight S shaped curve to it).

Regarding the color of the sleeves, I've seen pure white, off white, and my own ivory. All work, but imo an off white works better, because it doesn't have the harshness pure white can have when you photograph it or stand in direct light. Of course it also depends on the color of the dress. I've seen some very light and very dark dresses over the years, and for the darker dresses pure white looks off and vice versa. Off white is a good way to good.

As for your hair color, we recommend brown for Leia, but it is not a requirement, so you can be a ginger/red head Leia if you prefer. And yes, the longer hair should not be a problem for approval. We approve people with BSL length hair, so going longer is alright as well. (Though we might have to ask for a wig or something is it was past knee...) Ideal length for EVL is hips, if you want to know. Smile


(And totally unrelated to the topic; are you still growing your hair out and do you dye it with henna or something else? I've stopped dyeing, because chemical hair colors are too harsh and henna is too permanent. I've got brown hair so it fits Leia and if I dyed it I'd need new extensions... *sigh* I'd love to go red again, but just the thought of matching new extensions is enough to keep me from doing it).
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La Licorne Ailée ()
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your answer, it releaves me a lot ^^'
Of course, I will add volume and some fullness to the pieces of the skirt, as to create some waves in the "fell" (le tombé) of the skirt.
And i'll be sure to add the slight S shaped curve on the overskirt ;-)
Thank you so much for your precious help !!!
Now I can work on a propper and final pattern ^^'

Thanks again for your advice, it's a very good idea to chose the fabric depending on the leather !
I nearly never use pure white, exactly for the reason you said : it "burns" on pictures ^^ I always prefer off white or ivory.
So, very good idea, I buy my leather first, and then I go to buy the fabric, with a little piece of leather to check side by side ;-)

And for the hair, that's a huge relief ^^ I am always afraid to wear wigs, because I have to hide ALL my hair underneath, and it's a struggle, I'd say :p
But of course, I understand I should not go too far away, it's logical Smile
But thank you for the ideal lengh, that way I'll know if I have to buy a wig ^^
Now, all I have to do is to find some extensions that match my color (always changing, well, who said it wa too easy ? :p ) to create the braid she has on the head and that goes down on each side of her face ^^

(to answer you : yes, I let it live it's life, so to speak, as I wonder how far I can go :p It's not always easy to live with, but I won't complain on how beautiful it can be on a picture ^^ (If it's okay for you, I can give, here, my cospay Facebook page, so you can see many pictures of my hair lenght, and the different shades I get with time ) For the dying, I only used henna once, and it was a gorgeous ginger <3 But actually, I rather use a product I buy in my local store (yes, I need 5 boxes for my lengh ^^' ). But to be sur enot to damage my hair too much, I only do it once a year, so my hair can "breathe" between two dyings ;-) But the problem is my roots get to show, of course. In that case, when I know I will have an "important" photoshoot or event where I wish my hair color to be even, I use a product that washes off after one or two shampoo, it's very usefull !
So yes, I understand you very weel about the extensions dilemma ;-)
For the "too harsh" part of the chemical products, I recommand you use natural balms to nurrish your hair and head skin : avocado oil, wheat germ oil, evening primrose oil, sweet almond oil... and other things you can do on a daily basis to take care of your hair Smile
You're lucky to have the perfect color for Leia, I can see perfectly why you don't want do dye again ^^ And you can always use wigs to go red again ;-)
I hope I answered your questions well (again, I apologize for my translations mistakes) and don't hesitate if you have any other question ^^ )
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a pleasure to help. Very Happy Take your time working on the skirt; it is hard to get it perfect, but we can do our best to get close.

I will recommend using real natural (undyed) hide for the dress. In particular pig's hide, which is what I used as it has the exact dotted pattern of the real dress. This will have that color changing ability that is seen in the movie depending on the light.
(The dress will be fairly tight and restrict some of your movements, but the hide will stretch a bit after a few uses. I found the tightness is worst around the shoulders).

Good luck with the extensions! If your color changes regularly you might need a few different pairs or if your hair is thick you could make the hairdo of your own hair, thus ensuring that it will always match. Smile The hair do is fairly simply, I simply don't have enough hair on my head to make it look good if I use my own hair so I use an extension.

(And yeah! for having someone to obsess over long hair with; most of my friends know nothing of really long hair.
I gave up dyeing all the way back in 2009 after also dyeing it at least once a year. At that point I wasn't even sure exactly what my natural color was any more. It was quite interesting to find out as it grew out past the root stage. And it turned out I actually liked my natural color even if I'm a sucker for ginger. Wink But still... red is awesome!
I already use oils and hair balms, but having experienced the difference in using chemical dyes and not using them, I'm not planning on starting again. I had my tips dyed this summer and they just dried out even with lots and lots of oil. So yeah, I'm staying away from them. It will be cassia, henna or indigo if I dye again. Maybe someday.
In the meantime I'll have to find a good red wig. I only own one wig, which was bought because I needed to appear to have short hair. People didn't believe me when I told them my actual length. Razz
Um, and yes, I'd like to see your hair length, so you can link if you want).
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La Licorne Ailée ()
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's it : I bought the pig leather and the fabric *-*
Here is a picture to show you the texture :

(the leather color is slightly wrong due to my bad cellphone, sorry :/ As for the crepe, I found it in acetate (I couldn't find it in silk, and I didn't wanted to take polyester) but maybe I'll make a slight tea dyeing to make it a little more off white ).

I already cut the pieces, and put them on a dummy (which is too small regarding my measurements ^^ but who cares :p )


Of course, I will add a lining (with coton or linen) inside the bust part (as I always do when working with leather), for two reasons : preventing the natural streching you speak about, that naturally occurs with leather after a few uses. And also to absorb the sweat and prevent the leather to be burned by it, as I won't be able to put the dress in the wash machine often XD ^^

For the shoes, I carefully red the topic of Nomad Angie, and all the relies.
Here is the one I chose to buy on the internet (because it's not the season anymore in store :p )

I intend to sand the metalic look, and then, according to the color I will have, re-dye it if necessary to match the leather of the dress as much as possible.

As for the extensions, yes it's the tricky part for me, as I change often my hair color... You're right, I should make several of them, and chose the more appropriate according to my hair color on the day I wear the costume :p

( With pleasure ;-) I only know two other ladies who have long hair (one even more than me) and we always end up talking about hair care and all, and how rude people can be with it sometimes...
Red is awsome, and if you like it, I don't see why you could not wear it ! I don't think you can be "a sucker for a ginger", do it if you feel it for yourself, you'll be great anyway ;-) You're not hurting anyone here, so your pleasure is all that matters ^^
Haha, the magic of wigs, I like that too \o/ And people who know me, when they see me with a wig, they are like "hey ! where's your real hair gone ??" They freak out and it's so funny ^^
Okay, then here it is : http://facebook.com/FireCosplay
Again, thanks a lot for our time and so precious advice, I wouldn't have succeed without your help !! )
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uh! The cutting part! You have taken your first step into a larger world. Smile
I wish your the best of luck with it!

I didn't line mine, but I do wear a shirt under it. Lining could be an upgrade one day.

I think the model is an excellent choice; if you can get the sandal to match the dress then it would be near perfect.


Ha! Yeah, I went to school with another long hair and hers was knee length, just like one of the samba dancers/musicians I knew.
Oh, red will probably enter my life again someday, but when you got the color for Leia and do Leia... yeah, I make my choices (well, some) based on the characters I do. But wigs are fun, in particular people's reaction of 'where's your hair?!'
And thanks for the link; I'll be taking a look when I'm not busy reading and responding to wips. Wink
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La Licorne Ailée ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry for the delay, I was working hard on the costume and three others for the Paris Comic Con ^^'

So here it is, pictures from my WIP on the dress and the shoes.

First, the dress. As it is leather, I decided to add a lining on the bust, with linen, as much to absorb the sweat, as to avoid the leather to stretch over time
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_002_zpsyg42ejlo.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_005_zpsacirbwjt.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_007_zps3jlsl0xz.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_009_zps6fhwcsya.jpg.html

I forgot to take picture of the sewing of the diffent panels of the skirt, but there was nothing complicated here, only straight lines, and no details.
So then, the hardest part : sewing the bust, the the little leather crossing decorations in the end ^^'
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_013_zpskc9mcnr2.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_011_zps733vzszj.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_016_zpsrs0xfjwd.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_006_zpsesmksfna.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_008_zpsee6urfrx.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_009_zpsporpp14j.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_011_zpsotsmkqod.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_012_zpsokpad6m9.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_014_zpsezu3svoh.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_017_zpsuv49fkpw.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151022_019_zpsvqgu7t17.jpg.html

Then I sew the two parts of the skirt (complete underskirt and partial overskirt) with the bust. And I finished the dress with a zip in the center back.

To finish, the shoes. A huge thank you to my lovely boyfriend, who helped me a lot on these, because I was running out of time Razz
So he made the gold disappear with acetone, but there still remain a plastic shiny surface. So complete sanding with sandpaper.
Then I made a custom leather dyeing to get as close as I could to the color of the dress. After drying, the result was a bit too dark, so I just put talc powder on it, and it was a perfect match \o/
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_003_zpsjoh7suen.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_018_zpsl62aw5mn.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151019_021_zpsfbhevso5.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/WP_20151020_002_zpsuhz5wnop.jpg.html

There it is Smile

For the hair, I tried it with my real hair for the PCC, and I made the validation pictures like that.
Now I am waiting for their answer, I sent the validation resquest on Tuesday (I now it can take time, I'm not worried ^^ )
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/Profile%20picture_zpsvtewqqyb.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/DSC_4492_zps4vmpzbsl.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/DSC_4493_zpskhevatrx.jpg.html
http://s736.photobucket.com/user/Ivy_Patricksdaughter/media/Shoes_zps1x6eltow.jpg.html
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