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SW Republic Heroes - ARF Clone Sgt Boomer

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Commander Kaden ()
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:11 pm    Post subject: SW Republic Heroes - ARF Clone Sgt Boomer Reply with quote

ARF Clone Trooper (Animated) Sgt Boomer Ė Commander Kaden (wip)
Here comes the Boom!

Project choice and decision making.
ARF (Advanced Recon Force) was not my initial choice but as it happened I could have opted for a more perfect choice for my build.

The plan was to build an animated or movie version of Commander Bly or preferably Captain Rex (501st). I had made numerous enquiries into the excellent KW armour and the various fits for my frame. The results were looking good.

While I was figuring out the type of animated or movie clone (many variations) I visited my good friend Dr Awesome a.k.a. Heatshock a.k.a. KP a.k.a. Nate.

While touring his dwellings much like attending a convention (itís that good) I tried on a series of his amazing Clone lids. To my utter devastation I found that I canít fit my melon into a Phase 1/Phase 2 Clone lid, even if it has the clam shell magnet mod.

I did however find that an ARF Trooper lid fits me like a glove (or a helmet to be precise) and happened to be one of my favourite clone types.

So here begins the Journey to bring Boomer to the Garrison.
Sgt Boomer, an ARF Clone Trooper in the 501st Legion under the command of Anakin Skywalker & Cpt Rex to whom he became a close friend. Boomer is a character in the video game: The Clone Wars: Republic Heroes

Iíll be focusing on the paintwork project in this wip but if you would like more information on Clone armour seamless assembly, there are plenty of tutorials out there on the web.

I always create a project folder in Dropbox or something similar and drop in any images, builds and references I find along the way, it also means I have access to them from most devices should I not be near a PC & have an idea form. This will be a repository for progress pictures as well as research items to use for reference.

Test fitting of ARF Clone trooper armour.
Armour assembly is complete which should be lightly weathered with shades of grey (the paint, not the book).

This type of Clone armour suits my build and so begins the customisation project (and yes I have my forearms on the wrong arms, this is to hide the com-pad).

Lightly sand all of the armour parts down to key the material for the paintwork.
Patch weathering in shades of grey (PlastiKote grey primer used in this project but thereíare many alternative brands)

Paint masking
Donated /salvaged carrier bags from around the office & home. Favourites are currently Aldi bags as theyíre strong and donít contain air holes in the bottom (it just takes one lapse in memory in checking for holes and Boomer is in polka dots & stripes)

Continuous cross checking is required between the CRL & reference material to get the correct balance of look and accuracy.

My measured markings are created by measuring and cutting the right width of masking tape, getting it into position, bordering it with sensitive/low tack masking tape (the very pale pink tape you see in my pictures) & then removing the measured piece. By using blue medium tack masking tape also gives a nice concept visual (eyeball) to how the painted markings will look.

I Detailed a 2Ē blue stripe down right shoulder bell using my method described above.

Forearms, Elbows & Knees
A 1.5Ē blue stripe from the ridge around the top of the forearm that connects to a ľĒ blue line underneath the elbow detail.

A mirror image of the elbow detail should indent the blue line at the ľĒ area. I created this by placing a piece of masking tape on the elbow detail and rubbing my finger along the groves to produce a marked indent

I then simply cut out the shape along the indent marking and inverted it below the elbow detail & ľĒ into the 1.5Ē stripe area Iíd exposed.

The knees were a piece of cake after that as I simply masked off the knee detail and that was that done.

Now that you have a flavour for the level of detail in this wip, you might want to go grab a coffee & a biscuit, sit back and weíll carry on.

I encountered two problems with the thighs and this is where the research pays off. Most of the images Iíd gathered of Boomer where from the front or the back. Thereís an upward line to the blue band that surrounds the thigh but I couldnít work out how this translated to the marking up. I could work out that the down line towards the inner thigh would then travel up again at the back to produce the upward line at the back but what happens on the outer thigh? I have a diagonal ĎUí shape from inner thigh up through the front & back of the thigh with no idea what the connection of the lines look like. To me an up line from front and back would either meet high up the thigh or cross over at a point but visually it looked like something was going on around the middle of the outer thigh.

Luckily the images of the game character Iíd found previously (including stills of Boomer & Rex with Cad Bane & driving their AT-RTs) show a very nice shot of the outer thighs. Itís a curve!!! A downward diagonal ĎUí shape. The lights come on, the orchestra plays and weíre back in business.

The other issue was how to produce a nice curve with the masking tape without making it look like it was created with a series of straight lines or get paint under the tape where Iíd tried to bend it and the tape had wrinkled?

Fine line vinyl tape Ė The stuff they use for creating line designs, pin striping or design splicing on car & motorcycle bodywork .
It creates nice curves, has good adhesion but is still gentle enough not to pull away paint when you remove it.

Now all my detail areas are marked and masked up, itís time to prime the lot.
For this Iíve chosen Wilkoís white primer (3 coats) as this is the colour I want to show through when I add the debris deflection marks (more on this later)

For the 501st colours Iíll be using Rustoleum Painterís Touch Ė Brilliant Blue.
This is a gloss whereas a matte paint effect should be used (more on this later)

Now I was going to insert a witty Breaking Bad reference here but the FEDs could be watching so Iíll give it a miss.

Chest ammo pouch
Opting for the ammo pouch configuration, I wanted to visualise how & where it would sit. Iíll be honest, I struggled to find references or sources for the ammo pouch as I didnít know what its name was to search for it.

In the end I decided to prototype one with EVA foam & based on the CRL image to give me an idea of what it would look like. The thought was to build, fill, smooth, sand then paint or cover in Thermoplastic to create the ammo pouch but then there were more ideas.

Time to get a good friend in on the pouch action. Luke. a.k.a. Sni9er a.k.a. JJ Industries with his awesome 3D design & printing skills. After looking at my prototype, some reference pictures and my armour, he set about the design & print phase.
More on this as it develops

Chest armour
Again the vinyl tape really comes in handy here as I need to create the curved chest detail. I did this by using sized pieces of masking tape to mark the width of the collar detail and the distance from the centre of the chest where the arc should end and the ĎVí shape should begin. Then I just trimmed off all the tape that crossed over/overlapped, removed my spacers and masked up everything outside of the chest detail.

Lid & visor
Getting a little caught up in the moment with paint frenzy, I almost forgot that the visor has white detailing and was about to paint the whole thing blue. Time for one of those biscuit breaks and look through my reference material. Now calm and focused again, I set about masking off the panel on either side of the white primed visor and the connector arms (they will remain white, for now).

Masked off the detail around the jaw keeping the raised areas exposed (these will also be painted blue).

A 2.5Ē stripe runs down the centre of the lid crest but the masking tape is just shy of 2Ē. So to keep to my mask & mark method Iíve been using, I simply measure a 1Ē wide strip & a 1.5Ē wide strip, ley them side by side and stick them together with some surplus masking tape. To make sure all the detailing is centred I lay a strip of vinyl tape right along the centre of the crest, down the face and along the nose & Voilŗ! A perfect 2.5Ē wide stripe.

The CRL states the lid should have a 1.5Ē stripe on the nose that expands to 2.5Ē along the crest so I place a 1.5Ē piece on the nose &connect vinyl tape from this piece to the 2.5Ē giving an almost perfect (nothing is perfect) ĎVí from nose to crest.

All thatís left to do now is edge the lines in sensitive masking tape, remove all the spacers, mask up everything outside of the detailing, sand & prime again.

Normally youíd try and spray a nice even coat over the armour (many thin coats rather than few heavy), but I use a spotting technique on the first coat, effectively creating blotches of paint. When you apply a more even second coat the blotches create slightly darker patches giving a slight mottled appearance. This can boost the effect of the weathering on the blue details. I applied around 3 coats, 40 minutes apart then into the drying cupboard for at least 24hours.

As you can see the Brilliant Blue Gloss is a bit Ďdisco & incredibly shinyí compared to the references & this is where wire wool steps in. Wait until your paint is hard dry (your fingernail makes no impression on the paint when dug in) then buff gently with wire wool (just gently until you get an even colour). Donít worry if the wire wool discolours the paint slightly, this adds to the weathering effect. Hereís the comparison before & after the wire wool buff.

Now Iím left with this cracking 501st Blue, itís time to get the wrapper off for a closer look. If youíve never used this vinyl tape before, Iíd highly recommend it.

To do the cheeks on the lid, itís time to mask up the new paint scheme and get the lid back in the paint room. 2 shades of grey will be used on the cheeks. (the less popular prequel to the movie Ė Iíll get bored of this eventually.)

A darker grey for the muzzle and a lighter primer grey for the cheeks. After spraying on the lighter grey, Iíd allow/encourage any of the darker paint to fall onto the cheeks as I sprayed the muzzle, this creates a nice gradient weathered look almost like exhaust carbon. This also is a compromise between the main CRL image which looks like a single darker shade was used, the detailed lid section of the CRL and the reference pictures which show 2 colours used.

Altogether now!

Debris deflection marks
There were a couple of ways Iíd contemplated approaching this. The first was to use a masking solution (I hear mustard, toothpaste or PVA glue works well, albeit a strange combination of items to be caught sitting on the floor with). I did a few tests using an old TK shoulder bell which I painted on scratches using toothpaste, painted over when dry and then when both paint & toothpaste are hard, pick off the paste which left behind a nice clean spot in the shape of the painted scratch.

The only issue was that some of my scratches looked like they HAD BEEN painted on so Iíd opted for my plan B.

This was to put real scratches into the paint using sandpaper & an etching tool. This is where the multiple coats of white primer come in.
Lightly sand the raised & terminating edges of the armour to create weathering at points that would naturally rub or have increased wear & tear. Make scratches by buffing back & forth with thin edges of sandpaper until the primer coat is exposed.

Weathering (Time to get dirty!)
Boomer is one of the dirtiest/grubby Clones other than Rex, itís obviously a dirty job but somebody has to do it.
I have used an acrylic wash (about 1 part black acrylic at 79p and 6 parts water plus a little squirt of washing up liquid to keep the paint moving). I decided to mix them in a 50p spray bottle for ease of application & coverage but also so I have a consistent mix (rather than mix up a new batch to continue working and the colour mix be different). Itís also slightly easier to store any unused wash for future use.

I also kept some kitchen towel handy for daubing & moving the wash around the armour and wet wipes for moving drying or heavy paint wash.

I applied the wash to all areas including the blue painted areas and allowed heavier quantities of the wash to sit in the creases, the debris scratches and corners.
Keep an eye on your reference material as you go along and use it as a guide to the depth of colour and areas affected by weathering.

Next upÖ.

  • Few more debris deflection marks, acrylic wash touch ups, light sanding on heavier areas to expose more white.
  • Earth tones and carbon scoring

In progress

  • Clone boots - scratch build
  • Chest Ammo pouch Ė 3D designed and printed

Projects to start

  • DC-17 Animated Pistol Ė Scratch build
  • DC-17 holster Ė 3D design & print
  • Z-6 Rotary Blaster Cannon Ė New scratch build
  • RPS6 Rocket Launcher Ė Scratch build

Future upgrades

  • Gioís clone boots
  • Jet Pack (variation to be discussed with armourer)

More to follow soonÖÖ.
CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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Commander Kaden ()
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 9

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress report on the work list

    Upper body
  • Darken muzzle. Complete

  • Chest Ammo pouch Ė 3D designed and printed (Credit Ė JJ Industries). Complete

    Sanding the surface after the 3D print from 60 grit Aluminium Oxide up to 400 with Wet/Dry paper & water. I could have went all the way up to 2000 grit but I didnít want the surface to be super smooth as it should have a battle used appearance.

    I created a makeshift sanding station simply by taping down the sanding sheets to the floor in the conservatory. This allowed me to exert good pressure on the objects onto the flat surface & transition quickly from coarse to finer grit.

    The green Aluminium Oxide paper can be useful as the dust sticks to the sanded surface leaving un-sanded areas visible.

    Slight correction to make as the holster had been designed for the Left side whereas Boomer carries his side-arm on the right. This meant the useful recess to install a rare earth magnet needed to be filled.

  • Jet Pack Ė Research & prototyping In progress (to be discussed with armourer)

    Jet pack (JP) loadout
    Although the arena JP is not listed as part of the CRL optional items, I decided to include my research & working out in my wip.
    The main reason Iíve included this variation is as an alternative to carrying the back-slung RPS 6 launcher when the environment proves too busy or narrow to carry the launcher safely.

    Theorising the design from limited references
    Boomerís JP can be seen partially here in this scene where Boomer & Rex are held captive by the bounty hunter Cad Bane.

    Although only partially visible I have made educated assumptions based on research & references already out there.

    In this scene the Boomer & Rex JPs are identical in colour.
    The paint schemes are also identical apart from the side chevron which has command-level appropriate detailing.

    Based on the above information we can match the JPs in the scene to Captain Rexís JP from other references like the figures & models.
    We can look at those in detail & then match the side profile seen in the game & all seems consistent with the design.

    Although there is only a partial side view in my reference picture we can assume the entire JP design on Boomerís back is identical to Rex & therefore we know what the JP should look like as the visible parts can be matched to existing references.

    Sgt Boomer has a near identical command level insignia to Rex with a slight difference appropriate to his position in the command chain.

    Letís take a look at the Command level insignia/design seen on Boomerís JP in the ref picture & the one on Rexís.
    The figure shows Rex has a double line design consistent with the scene side profile & shows Boomer with a single command design.

    In absence of contradictory reference pictures, this extrapolation is more than feasible. If anyone has the game or additional references to the Jet Pack it would be great if you could share them with me.

Lower body

  • DC-17 Animated Pistol Ė Scratch build (Credit Ė Purgeworx Props). Complete

  • DC-17 holster Ė 3D design & print (Credit Ė JJ Industries). Complete

  • Clone boots - scratch build. In progress for another project
  • Gioís clone boots upgrade Ė Ordered, built & scheduled for dispatch to the UK Friday 22nd May


  • Few more debris deflection marks, acrylic wash touch ups, light sanding on heavier areas to expose more white. Complete
  • Earth tones and carbon scoring. Complete
    In absence of finding Fullers Earth, not working with the material before & therefore not knowing what to look for including colour & consistency, I decided to improvise for the extra earth tone weathering.
    1 half used tin of Nescafe Azera finely ground coffee (there are many other coffee brands available Wink ) & 1 tin of ash from a wood burning stove.
    Note to self: Donít leave these out in the open unmarked afterwards where the other half will tidy them away with the other beverages & pray I find them before somebody tries to drink my weathering. :no:
    Spray a light mist of hairspray (nothing fancy this isnít a fashion show :suspect: ) flick on the coffee, ash or both with a dry paint brush & rub over with your hands, finish with another light spray to fix. This gives the already weathered armour some dusty / dry dirt highlights to dampen some of the bold 501st blue & makes the armour look a lot more battle used. Itís subtle but makes all the difference.

  • Z-6 Rotary Blaster Cannon Ė (Credit Ė Heatshock)Sourced
    You canít have a name like Boomer & only carry a single side-arm so to go with the RPS6 rocket launcher, how about a Z-6 rotary blaster cannon for that cherry on the cake? Iím 6ft2Ēish so have gone for the slim version to keep the proportions right. Iíll scratch build or commission a wider Z-6 keeping it proportional to my size.

    DLT-19 used for scale

Up next

  • Test fitting for weathering consistency check & blending.
  • Get weathering signed off to proceed to clear-coat protection
  • Accessory attachment (Holster & ammo pouch fitting)
  • Paint work & weathering (Holster & ammo pouch)
  • Jet pack construction
  • Z-6 Rotary Blaster Cannon Ė Scratch build research
  • RPS6 Rocket Launcher Ė Scratch build research

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!

Last edited by Commander Kaden () on Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Commander Kaden ()
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 9

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update to work list

  • Gioís clone boots upgrade (Credit Ė Crow 62 PropHouse) Complete
  • Paint work & weathering (Holster & ammo pouch) Complete
  • Accessory attachment (Holster & ammo pouch fitting) Complete

Accessories Ė Boots, ammo Pouch & holster
Gioís Animated boots arrived which were exactly the quality & fit I was looking for, I quickly set about destroying them as I did with the ARF armour.

Using the exact same bottled weathering solution as Iíd made up previously means I get the same consistency in colour, coverage drying speed as I had with the other weathered parts.

For the boots & lower shins I have opted for a splash effect different to the general grime, wear & tear of the weathering on the rest of the armour. Anyone thatís stepped on a loose paving stone thatís hiding a gallon of dirty rainwater will know exactly how this looks on your clean shoes & trouser legs. This is the effect Iím after as Iíd expect there to be splash marks from running, trudging & riding through dry areas & suddenly encountering sporadic patches of dirty water.

To achieve this Iíve sprayed my weathering solution onto the boots & allowed the finer droplets to dry & heaver droplets to naturally run into the cracks. Iíve then followed this up by blending a layer of weathering solution into the boot so itís not a bright white boot with splashes on.

Finally Iíve added my espresso coffee powder & ash to the boot at contact points along the seams & tread. This gives a more realistic dirt effect to complement the weathering solution.

Ammo pouch & holster
In search of the chest strap material Iíve had my eye on everything from car seat belts & laptop bag straps to cargo & guitar straps. In the end I found a great match on a sports bag I had. To create the chest strap Iíve taken my sports holdall strap off & cut an appropriate length that will reach from my shoulder down to my belt. The width was an almost perfect match to the width of the shoulder bridge.

I cut off the previously glued shoulder bridge & attached a piece of Velcro to the inside & a length to the strapping. This is an alternative to drilling through the armour under the shoulder bridge & bolting the strap onto the armour.

Attach the strap to the underside, as you can see the width is a good match.

I re-connect the bridge to the armour and attached a few Velcro anchors to the armour & strap as it runs down the body. This will help to take the weight of the attached ammo pouch off the glued bridge as it wonít naturally be as strong as a drilled bolt through the plastic.

Continuing on from the sanding & filling in the last update, it was time to prime & paint the accessories. My standard for this is now 3 coats of primer around 40 minutes apart & then 24hrs drying time. This is followed by 3 coats of matt black paint around 50 minutes apart followed by 48hrs drying time.

Add the coffee & ash to simulate sand, dirt & dust.

Using left over & filler caked 400 grit wet dry paper from previously sanding the accessories, I lightly sanded the edges of the items around raised edges & contact points. The filler left on the wet/dry paper left enough of a barrier to just remove enough paint to expose the grey primer while also dropping filler on the paintwork to simulate scuffs & scratches.

Buff off the heavy excess of coffee & ash and theyíre done

Up next

  • Test fitting for weathering consistency check & blending.
  • Get weathering signed off to proceed to clear-coat protection
  • Submit for clearance
  • Building continues Ė new Z-6, RPS6 & Jetpack

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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Commander Kaden ()
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Soft parts - Animated Clone neckseal, undersuit & gloves added to build.

Final test fitting before clear coat sealing & permanent fixture of external accessories.

Notes: Lighting makes armour look cleaner than it is depending on where the light has hit the armour, ammo pouch looks grey in some of the flash shots. See wip images after weathering for colour in different light.

Lid-off, front, left right, back & action shots.

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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Commander Kaden ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Jet Pack Upgrade

Finding the right JP
After various trials with Pepakura files to prototype a jet pack & get some 3D detail into my head, the closest looking match to the one from the game is an Arena JP (most commonly associated with Jango Fett). Iíd bought a stack of materials to build one from plasticard when another bit of luck fell my way.

I managed to obtain a Man of War JP that unfortunately was already completed as a Jango Fett pack. This is a high quality pack made as a polyurethane cast.

Stripping it down
As usual, I promptly set about destroying it by removing all the detail pieces & stripping down the layers of paint. Slow & steady progress but got there in the end.

Paint matching from the screen shot
My next task was to match as closely as possible the paint in the game screen shots with existing paint from the Rust-Oleum range. Basic photo software can be very useful in picking the RGB or HEX colours from the screen shot to match against RAL colour matching paint system.

For ease of reading Iíve labelled my choices in standard colours.

Paints involved in the project so far

Iím slowly replacing all my Plasti-Kote range with Rust-Oleum as thereís a larger range of paint available in many more colours for a multitude of materials. The paint quality is very high & itís very easy to work with (Ask me about my Pilot chest box thatís still not dry 10 months after using a Plasti-Kote Gloss that was a bit off)

After scrubbing down the surface, the cast will need to be primed before repainting but primer is also useful for exposing gaps, pits & imperfections.

As you can see here, one of the rocket tops has not been glued in place correctly so there is a gap on the inside. Rather than risking damage by detaching, cleaning up & re-attaching, Iíll use a hard filler, sand & prime.

Further references
After obtaining some new game screen shots from Wookieefeet (CTN) which show Boomerís JP from other angles, it confirmed my initial theory & removed some of the guesswork from the rest.

With a clearer picture of the rank insignia & pack detail, I can start to template the design ready for painting later.

As before, I prefer to create a template with masking tape to edge later. Because I often cut the tape with a scalpel in position on the pack, Iíd rather do this now on the primer coats then remove them for reapplication later rather than cutting on top of the final paint.

Up Next...
With templates ready for later, itís back in the paint room for another primer coat

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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Commander Kaden ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Jet Pack paint scheme (Boomer)

More detailing
Detailing with a metric tonne of masking tape, carrier bags & thin, flexible vinyl tape. At last count Iíve used 4 rolls of varying thickness masking tape (low tack & sensitive tapes).

Rocket tops
I have silvered the rocket tops in metallic silver (3 coats) before using the graphite (3 coats). This will produce a metallic effect when the graphite is weathered & worn through to expose the metal underneath.

Rocket housing
Iíve also sprayed the main body black Satin, featuring a primer grey detail as seen in the reference pictures

Taking shape
Unmasking again ready to re-mask for the next layers of detail.

Iíd primed the thrusters in the previous update so itís time to fill the pits & bumps then more masking for the detailing & painting up.

After adding a red stripe around the bottom of the thruster, Iíve then silvered them inside & out as with the rocket tops (3 coats).

And rinse & repeat with the graphite (3 coats)

Now losing track of the number of times Iíve masked up for detailing, Iíve resorted to leaving tape reminders of what details I need to paint next.

Final tweaks & finishing
Iím now down to the final detailing so Iíve cut out the masking tape level with the main rocket housing. This will be sprayed black similar to the reference pictures but leaving the remaining top portion of the back plate white.

501st Blue
Lastly the subtractive masking as described in the main armour section of the wip (add the cut stencils I designed earlier, mask the borders then remove the stencil).
After the regimental 3 coats of the brilliant blue itís time for a gentle wire wool scrub to knock the gloss down to matt 501st blue.

Ready to get dirty
After what has been weeks of painting (factoring in 24hr dry times between coats) it takes half an hour to cut off all the masking tape, bags & vinyl & itís starting to look like Boomerís Jet Pack.

Next upÖ.

  • Satin black to go through wool scrub to bring down to matt
  • Scratches & debris deflection marks
  • Weathering solution
  • Dirt & carbon scoring including on the rocket tops
  • Clear coat

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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Commander Kaden ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Jet Pack weathering Ė Work list from last session

Wire wool scrub
First up before I forget was to take the Satin Black down to matt with a wool scrub, as the wire wool breaks up it also leaves a nice dirty looking metal dust on the paint (this is good & adds to the weathering). More importantly It reduces the shine as seen in the before & after picture.

All this paint talk might get a bit tedious but the point is this; just over year ago I would have asked somebody if they could do all this or just used kit as it. About a year ago I started to wonder how difficult it would be to try myself, today Iím talking your ears off about masking tape & paint. Try it, do it, done it!

Scratches & debris deflection marks
Using a scribing/scoring tool, I lightly scape away the paint to form scratches to simulate stone & debris that has caught the paint at speed (car & motorcycle owner nightmare). Iíve also lightly abraded the surface of the rocket bodies & thrusters to form scuff marks.

Dirt & carbon scoring including on the rocket tops
Using the same weathering solution I made up at the start of the project will keep the colour consistent with the rest of the armour.
Iíll then add the coffee & ash as previous updates to give varying tones of dirt, earth & dust.

  • I apply a full coat to grime up the JP & then apply splashes, drips & heavy spray to create a textured dirt effect.
  • Lightly sand the rocket tops to expose some of the silver undercoat detailed in the previous updates.
  • Dry brush some black acrylic on the base & inside the thrusters & rocket tops
  • Fix the lot with a distant mist of hair spray Ė This will prevent is blowing away when I apply the clear coat.

Next upÖ..

  • Harness system
  • Clear coat to seal the work

CX13101 Here comes the Boom!
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El-dictator (Dave)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised The only ting i can tell is Awesome ! !!!!
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stroudy (Peter Truscott-Stroud)
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TFA LFL Red Carpet World Premiere (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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