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All things Jedi
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: All things Jedi Reply with quote

We get a lot of questions and inquiries about joining the Rebel Legion and most folks start with a Jedi costume.

I know that a lot of us sew our own costumes but there are those who just want to get into the whole costume thing gradually and want to purchase their costumes.

That leads to this thread....

I would like all Jedi to share their journey towards making approved costumes...

from outer tunics
to inner tunics
to belts
boots
pouches
etc.

If you purchased yours, who did you purchase from?
If you are happy with the results...
please share your source



I began my Jedi journey in 1999 - right after Episode One came out. At the time McCall's offered a pattern (#2433) called "Space Nomads". The pattern was pulled from the shelves presumably by the threat of a lawsuit by Lucasfilm. There were plenty of those patterns sold....I bought one and over the years found a few more in various locations.

The pattern was marginal at best. The sleeves were short and had little volume. The robe pattern that came in the package was also slim on volume and the hood was way too small. But overall...the pattern gave me my start.

http://patternkingdom.com/McCalls2433.html


I sewed my first costume by hand because I had no sewing machine.

I also made a Jedi costume using Simplicity pattern 8311 -

http://www.sewingpatternheaven.com/shop/simplicity-pattern-costumes-egyptian-genie-roman-asian-wizard-adult-sizes-small-through-large/

I used view "B" - the men's version....it looked a lot like a Jedi tunic.

There is another pattern out there that I think is still available...
and that is Simplicity 0606..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplicity-Pattern-5840-Mens-Womens-Costume-XS-XL-Capes-Tunic-Robe-hooded-/381247096304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c41905f0

again...this pattern does have some faultes....one of them is that I personally don't care for the dropped sleeve on the tunic. What I DO use this pattern for is to make "cheater" undertunics - they have pattern piece "D" which is the cheater undertunic...
and the sash/obi can be useful too.

After making a few Jedi costumes that I was not 100% happy with, I asked one of my fellow Jedi Assembly members to draft a Jedi pattern for me. The pattern she made me is the one I use for any Jedi costume I have made in the past 12 years. It has a waist seam and to me that makes all the difference in the world.

For fabrics, I have always chosen 100% cotton.
Linen can be used...but it wrinkles like mad...
Silk can also be used...but can be difficult to work with.
I LOVE cotton crinkle gauze...but it too can be a challenge to work with and is often too thin. There was a crinkle cotton fabric called "Calcutta" that was great...but it is difficult to find.

I am also a Jedi who likes to stick to earth tones....I feel that is traditional.

My Jedi belt was made in 2002 by a local leatherworker. I didn't do any leatherworking at the time. I still use that same belt. It is well weathered, but I see no reason to replace it....it still fits.

My first pair of Jedi boots were purchased on E-Bay for $25.00 also in 2002. I had the same leatherworker add some leather strapping to those boots...I still wear them.

Recently, I found a pair of very plain boots on E-bay and bought them for like $12.00. They fit GREAT, are broken in and are so comfortable it is almost a sin. Since I now do leatherworking, I added some embellishment to those $12.00 boots and they are now my "go to" Jedi boots for events where I will be on my feet for long periods of time.

My pouches and food capsules are also from around 2002. At that time, the original Staedler pens were still available....and a friend of mine pointed me to a person making pouches....I have long since lost that information.

For my Jedi robe I used Simplicity pattern 9887 but had to make some modifications to the pattern by taping two of the pattern pieces together to eliminate the yoke seam. I also made the hood larger and took some of the "flair" out of the sleeves.

http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Simplicity-9887-Lord-Of-Rings-Wizard-Cape-Costumes-Xs-S-M-L-Xl/129993497?gpid=76984451341&gpkwd=&goog_pla=1&gclid=COSzrYSgycUCFdgGgQodnD4AoA


Please share any information that will help prospective Jedi costumers who might wish to join NSB
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it all started for me when i went to celebration europe just before moving to USA. that was my first experience of the RL and i said to the wife, i want to do that

so when i moved here i started putting a jedi together. this was an obvious choice as i am a swordsman.

outer and inner tunic

i have 2 outer tunics and they both came from the same place. i was told to avoid ebay, but i was let down by 3 RL members who said they could make it for me and didnt come through.

they were great to work with and made everything to my measurements and specifications. i had a second one done in crinkle cotton. my wife has since made me another inner tunic

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jedi-Tunic-Star-Wars-Costume-Luke-Mace-Windu-Custom-Made-4-Men-Women-Children-/321712950592?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae7960d40

boots

after using some cheap boots which i destroyed lightsabre fighting i had a pair specially made by a boot maker in peru, anakin style. expensive but well worth it

belt

was bought as a job lot on ebay with pouches and food capsules

lightsabres

various designs by ultrasabers

robe

my wife was going to make one, but she is a novice with a sewing machine so i bought one from here

http://www.twinrosesdesigns.com/

it was well worth it. i bought it in wool and im glad i did, it looks more authentic than cotton
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RebelJedi77 (Jason Stoxen)
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I am finding, costuming seems to be an ever-evolving process and practice. I, like many, started entirely with pieces built by others and have been slowly transitioning piece-by-piece into making any and all components that I am able to. I think it is a great idea to have this thread to assist all of those just starting out to be able to get a foot in the door, so to speak. That being said, I will do my best to provide info on all of the "successes" I have had in assembling at least my first Jedi costume to be approved (and I'm sure not my last!)

Eva Vanecek is whom I purchased my first (and current) soft goods from, except for the pants, under tunic and robe. There are many styles and color combination available, and she seems to adhere pretty closely to RL standards. Plus, she is very personable and easy to work with, and her tunics seem to hold up really well. I have had mine for like 4 years now and not even so much as a loose thread on anything from her!

Her eBay page:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/evavanecek209

My robe, though I almost never wear it because it is SUPER warm is from OuterRobes. To the best of my knowledge, it is a thick fleece material, has the traditional oversized hood, and flows really well when walking. Unfortunately, it looks like their website is on longer operational, so I cannot provide and links or further product info for that.

My under tunic was made for my by my mother-in-law from a beige gauze material, but I have heard that the ones made by Twin Rose are quite nice also, though I cannot verify that personally.

My pants are basically Dockers, similar to what Ewan wore for OWK. My tunic covers the pockets so that they are not readily visible, most of the time, anyway!

Boots are Hispar Gardena dress riding boots purchased on eBay. They needed quite a bit of breaking in, and finding the right combination of insoles and socks to make them comfortable. Also, the soles are very hard on these, so I took them to a cobbler and had lug soles put on instead, and it was probably the best decision I made regarding the boots! Now they flex better, have traction, and I no longer sound like I'm wearing high heels when I walk! Razz

These are them:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hispar-Mens-Gardena-Fashion-Leather-Equestrian-Ridings-Buckle-Tall-Boots-/281105660055?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item417333f897

Belt, food capsules, and pouches were purchased on eBay from various people. I do not have any specific info on the belt or the capsules, but the pouches are German mauser ammo pouches. They are real leather and very functional. Here is an example:

https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=442

As for the lightsaber, well, there are way too many sources to list for good sabers. With budget in mind, the go-to choice seems to be UltraSabers where you can get a stunt saber (no sound) starting around $70. Currently, I am using 2 of their stunts in my saber gauntlet, and up until recently I was using one of their Shock LE sabers with sound and such. I only just sold it in order to build my own using parts from The Custom Saber Shop. Links for both companies listed just below.

www.ultrasabers.com
www.thecustomsabershop.com

Phew, that was a lot of typing! I just hope it helps at least one person out there looking to put together their first Jedi (or second, third, etc.)!

Luke 2 anakin Mara Jade Mace kyle Ben Yoda 1
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had several members and prospective members trace my Jedi costume pattern awhile back.

Meg has finished her Jedi and has been approved.

Jason also traced it...
so..
this thread is for Jason and for anyone past, present and future who has traced my pattern.

I have started a new costume using the pattern. I hope to make this version have an elliptical hem - or longer in the back than the front. Don't know how it will work out, but am using the same pattern and just altering things a bit at the hem, otherwise the assembly will be the same.

I will make some notations along the way for men using the pattern and those needing a slightly larger/longer size.

First thing, of course is fabric. I wanted a really dark brown costume. I also don't buy any polyester or polyester blends, so I wanted a fabric with natural fiber content.

I found a great 55% linen/45% cotton blend in a really nice and dark brown color. It was only 45" wide so I ordered 10 yards in order to insure that I had plenty. Some fabrics come in 60" wide, which would have been preferred, but you can't always get what you want.








Next....you have to wash the fabric. Use hot water and if you have a dryer, put it in the dryer also so that the fabric does all of its shrinking first. This also removes some of the sizing in the fabric that is put there when the fabric is woven.

I don't have a dryer, so this photo is the way I dry the fabric. I don't like to hang it as that can kind of stretch it funny in some places





When dry, fold the fabric lengthwise, right sides together. "Right side" always means the "good" side of the fabric. This linen really doesn't have a "wrong" and "right" side. Many cotton/linen fabrics are the same on both sides of the fabric.

Start to lay out the pattern on the folded fabric in a manner that you will waste as little fabric as possible.



In the above photo, the tabards are not laid out on the fabric yet, neither is sleeve #2 nor the neck facing.


Note the fabric pieces that instruct you to place the pattern on the fold of the fabric.



The back sections of the tunic top and "skirt", the sleeve, and the neck facing are all placed on the fold of the fabric.

And, for those who have never sewn...
please...
for the love of Yoda...
buy a fabric scissors and
ONLY USE IT FOR CUTTING FABRIC!!! lol...
trust me on this...




Now, because I want to try an elliptical hem on this one, I cut the back pattern piece for the "skirt" longer.



I am not sure how much I will need....so I added plenty of length.

I also cut the front pieces of the skirt a little longer, they didn't need to be cut a LOT longer because the skirt will be longer in the back than the front.



Guys....don't get blown off by the word "skirt"...that is just what I am calling the pieces below the waist....this tunic has a waist seam....so did the Jedi costumes in the movies.

When cutting, I saved some of the scraps of fabric with selvage - in other words, this is how the fabric is finished along the length of the fabric so it doesn't fray. Since I don't have a serger, these selvage pieces are going to come in hand for the "ties" on the obi.



Now...
to those who have to alter this pattern a bit.

In this photo, note that I laid the pattern that is to be placed on the fold a little farther from the fold. So, if you placed this particular pattern piece for the back of the upper part of the tunic about an inch from the fold, you will gain two inches across the back.




You would do likewise for the back of the skirt and any other pieces you might need a little extra room on. Also, remember if you need extra length in the sleeves or the skirt or the top of the tunic, remember to cut these pieces longer!! For the sleeves, add some length to the bottom, not at the curved top of the sleeve that goes in the armhole.....

always THINK ABOUT THOSE ALTERATIONS BEFORE YOU CUT THE FABRIC!!

Go over it several times to check before you cut!!!!


Note the darts....hopefully you marked those darts when you traced the pattern....



The above photo is of the back of the neck of the top piece of the tunic, you guys might want to add that dart into the top/neckline.



BUT....
the other darts at the bottom of the bodice (top pieces of the tunic) and on the top of the skirt...
don't add those darts as you men don't need your waistline to come in like women do...

so...
when cutting the pattern, just cut straight across (I added a broken line on the pattern) the fabric where the dart is marked...




Note some of the other instructions that hopefully you copied onto your traced pattern...
for example
you will need two sleeves cut on the fold






When you look again at the layout of the pattern pieces, you will note the obi pattern....the long piece on the bottom on the right.



You can cut the entire obi out of one piece of fabric...that means the "body" of the obi and the ties, but that takes quite a bit of fabric....so what I will often do is cut the obi out of the fabric to only where the "ties" go on each end and then make the ties out scrap pieces of fabric as noted in the one photo of those strips of fabric with selvage..

the narrow ends on the obi pattern end up to be the ties





Next is to cut the tabards...and those require really long lengths of fabric. I always like to try to cut them out of one piece of fabric...
but again...that requires a long piece. You can also cut them in halves and make a seam at the top of the shoulder...

I lay the tabard out (on double thickness of fabric-you will still need 2 which equals 4 single layer pieces of fabric) going all the way to the end of the fabric..





Then....when you cut the second pair, you can use that same curve from where the first tabards were cut..



Next, it is time to cut the front facing. As many times as I have made Jedi costumes using this pattern I will be honest that the neck facing gives me fits.

I have tried many different ways....I don't always have enough fabric to cut the neck facing on the bias...but this time I do...and cutting it on the bias should help to get the curves to lay flat.

This will help explain what cutting on the bias means:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiPdlPAXl5Q

You don't need to use a rotary cutter or ruler...you simply lay out the pattern piece on an angle.

Since this fabric was only 45" wide before shrinkage...
I had to open up the fabric and fold it the opposite way to get enough length...


at first the fabric was folded this way - basically length-wise...:




but for the front facing I opened it up and folded it the other way:








I then laid out the facing piece on an angle so that I would have stretch for the curves of this piece...




So....now I have all of the pieces cut...


One skirt back piece cut on the fold
One bodice back piece cut on the fold
Two sleeves cut on the fold
Two neck facing pieces cut on the fold

2 front bodice pieces (one will be right and the other is left left)
2 front skirt pieces (one will be right and the other is left left)
4 front facing pieces (2 for right and two for left)
4 tabard pieces - each tabard needs two layers)
2 obi pieces
long thin fabric scraps with selvage for the obi ties

Next up will be putting it together...

Will be working on that as time permits...
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

added more to the post above....

so...

now all of the pieces are cut...

construction is next...

Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And now we start the construction....

I started with the obi.

This obi pattern is based on this reference from long ago:





So....anyone can make an obi pattern to fit their waist just by taking measurements.

My obi pattern is actually a little large for me....but you can adjust yours according to the drawing above.

As noted...you can cut that obi all in one piece including the ties, or you can cut the obi out of your fabric without the tie and add the ties from scrap to save on fabric.

I made the ties separately from selvage pieces of fabric...fabric pieces that include the manufactured sides of the fabric.

Before I go further...you will need an iron...
pressing seams makes life a WHOLE lot easier...and natural fiber fabrics like this linen/cotton blend really press nicely with a steam iron.

I started with 2 strips of fabric from the selvage about 2 1/4 inches wide and about 18 inches long....




next I pressed the raw (cut) edge in about a third of the way.





after I pressed that entire edge...I pressed the selvage edge over the raw edge...

so that the strips look like this:



open up one of the ends or each fabric strip



and fold in the end about 1/2 inch and press - this will make a nice finished end to the tie that will be sticking out of the obi - the other end will be sewn into the obi ends.








Now you have your ties and your obi ready to start sewing...




run a stitch down the length of the tie to keep that together



it will look like this..






Next, address the ends of the obi where the ties will fit in....
with right sides together...

press the ends of the obi - both sides of the fabric....this photo shows one piece of fabric pressed in...the other side then got pressed in.




next you are going to pick one side of the obi piece and press in about 3/8 inch



the curves can be difficult...but....again ....natural fiber fabrics make this easier...



this photo didn't turn out as well as I would have liked...but one side of the fabric has been pressed inward...
again...
this is the obi pieces...2 pieces of fabric...right sides together.






After pressing one side of the obi in...
then press the other side...
so that it looks like this:




In this photo you have the raw edge on top...
and the pressed edge on the bottom with the pressed up seam outward




Next go to your sewing machine and stitch down the raw edge side of the fabric



This photo shows the raw edge stitched on the left...and the pressed in edge on the right..





now turn right sides out...remember...the "right" sides were together....the "right side" of the fabric was the inside..




You can see in this photo that which will be the inside of the obi...




next....pin the ties into each end of the obi...
putting the "raw" - unsewn end of the tie into the body of the obi and leaving the finished end on the outside





With both ties pinned in both ends of the obi...pin along the pressed side of the fabric...the pressed edges will now be inside leaving you with a nice finished edge...






start stitching at one end...
and...
no...
don't let your machine come in contact with a pin!!!
I just left the pin in there for the photo...
I removed the pin and then stitched down the tie on....
go back and forth a few times with your sewing machine...that tie takes a lot of abuse...so stitch forward...when you get to the end...use the "back up" feature on your sewing machine and stitch backward...and come forward again...






now start sewing down the pressed in side...
removing pins as you go..



Once you get the pressed side stitched...keep going around the entire piece to give it a finished look...









And....

you are done!!!





Next up is the tabards...


but...
if any of this is unclear...
just let me know and I will try to explain better



Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tabard time....

Lay out your tabards on the floor like the photo below. Each one of the tabards is two layers of fabric with the right sides of the fabric together.

The first thing I do is to hide the Velcro in the bottom layer of the tabard so that you can't see the seam where the Velcro is sewed on at all.




Cut two pieces of sew on Velcro a little narrower than the tabards will end up when hemmed. For this dark brown fabric, I chose black sew on Velcro.






Next, separate the two layers...and pin the Velcro (I usually put the hook part of the Velcro on the tabards) to the center of the top...the top is the part that will rest on your shoulder.
With the curved tabard pattern I use that is easily done by taking both ends of the pattern together and then fold at the top...that will basically give you the top dead center of the tabard.

Remember...since the "right" sides are together at this point, you are actually sewing the Velcro on what will end up the outside of the tabard.







Next, sew on the Velcro where you pinned it. Use more than one pin as the Velcro tends to slide around and you want to make sure it goes on straight.




This really crappy photo shows both of the Velcro pieces sewn on to the top of the tabard.




Next, put the other layer of tabard back on to the piece that has the Velcro sewn on...
right sides together with the Velcro now "inside"





Next you are going to sew down both long sides of the tabards and leave the two ends open at this time. You will hem the ends of the tabards when you finish your outer tunic and decide how long you want your tabards to be and if you want them longer in the back than the front...etc.








After you have sewn down both sides, now put your hand in the "tube" and pull the inside out...now the "right sides" that were together will be on the outside with the Velcro piece now on the outside







I put in generous seams on both sides of my tabards when I stitch them up so that I end up with a 5" wide tabard. If you want wider tabards, then sew the seam up both sides a little narrower.




You now have one finished tabard (except for hemming) ...then just do the other...




What I will also do after pressing the tabard is to sew a detail stitch line on both long ends of the tabard. To me, this helps them stay flat and when you get ready to hem them to the length you want, this stitch detail will also kind of disguise your hem seam.








Next up, constructing the outer tunic.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let the real fun begin...
construction of the outer tunic.

The first thing I always do is to sew in all of the darts.

I would recommend both women and men sewing in the darts at the neckline of the bodice (upper part).

Women....you will also need to sew in the darts on the lower part of the bodice and the upper part of the skirt...
Men using this pattern should skip these darts as your outer tunic does not need a defined waistline.


here is a page that will help those who have never sewn get a leg up on sewing darts:
http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/11/five-or-six-ways-to-sew-dart.html


So I started with sewing the two small darts up at the neckline...




I use a washable fabric pencil to mark in the dart. If you don't have one of these, you can also use masking tape and instead of drawing the line with the fabric pencil...you can just apply the tape as a line.




So, with the pattern on the fabric (my pattern has a hole in it at the point of where the dart begins...just poke a small hole at the point of the dart on your copy of the pattern. Then mark the pattern where the dart ends....

should look like this:




This is both darts marked on the neckline and they are on the "wrong side" of the fabric




Since my tunic is being made for me...I then added the darts on the bottom of the bodice and top of the skirt...










Once you have your needed darts marked...
you are ready to stitch them up...

Pin them matching up the lines where the darts end and folding to the dot/point...




and then stitch along the line...




When done...
the wrong side of the bodice piece will look like this



and...
the right side will look like this...





Women using the pattern can sew in the rest of the darts on the bodice and skirt....


more later...
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok...
darts are all sewn in ...

For me, the next step is because I don't have a serger. The neckline takes quite a bit of abuse...so I run a zig zag stich along the neckline as close to the edge of the fabric as I can. This will keep it from fraying and stretching out.







Next, with right sides together, match up the two bodice fronts with the bodice back at the shoulders and pin







now stich those front pieces to the back removing the pins as you go...



it will end up looking like this..this is the "wrong side"




Next, press those seams out:






your piece will look like this....armholes and sides open...attached only at the shoulder.

Next I sewed in the darts on the skirt pieces...again...this is for women using the pattern...



this is the skirt back







skirt back right side



skirt back wrong side



skirt front-one of two-wrong side





Next you are going to stich the two front skirt pieces to the skirt back. Match up the sides to the back...right sides together...and pin and stitch together...



Mine looked like this...
REMEMBER...WHEN I CUT MINE, I AM TRYING TO MAKE THE HEM ELLIPTICAL SO THE TWO SIDES ARE SHORTER THAN THE BACK..AND I WAS JUST KIND OF FREELANCING IT.....

This was kind of experimental....if you are doing a regular hem...and cut your pattern pieces the same length (remember to add some length if you are taller than me) the sides and back should match up correctly.




Trying to make the hem elliptical, I folded the entire piece *back with two front pieces) in half, laid the piece on the floor and kind of hand drew the hem with tailor's chalk




didn't like the one line...so I "erased" it



and ended up with this



I decided I kinda liked that line....so I cut along the line. With the skirt opened up again...
it looked like this




Again, since I don't have a serger...and the waist seam takes its share of abuse...
I set my machine on zig-zag and ran a zig zag stitch line at the top of the skirt and the bottom of the bodice...which will form the waist seam...






this is the inside (wrong side) of the skirt section with the seams and darts pressed.







now comes the sleeves....


find the center of the sleeve...that should be easy because remember...you cut the sleeve pattern piece out of the fabric on the fold...so...the fold line is the exact center of the sleeve....

right sides together...match the center line of the sleeve up to the seam at the top of the shoulder -the seam where you stitched together the front pieces to the back piece...




With the center of the sleeve pinned to the seam...start pinning the sleeve in along the entire length of the armhole....
start from the center and work your way out to both of the ends



Once you are satisfied that you have that matched up....
sew from the center line out to the one side of the armhole...
then sew the other side also starting at the center line and going outward...



This is what it should look like with one sleeve in and looking at the wrong side of the fabric



Do the same for the other sleeve...
and your piece should look like this





This is the piece on a hanger...with the sleeves still open and the sides of the bodice still open...




Now you are going to sew close the sleeves and sew up the side of the bodice....

line the pieces up and pin...







stitch the seams ....removing the pins as you go....

and...

this is the completed top part (without the neckband...which is a big pain...and is last) on a hanger...

front...




and back...




press all the seams open...

next step is going to be joining the top (bodice) to the bottom (skirt)

Isn't this so much fun?


Razz
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome thread, thank you for this...now somewhere between the other 32 projects floating in my head, I want to try this Mr. Green
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woulf wrote:
awesome thread, thank you for this...now somewhere between the other 32 projects floating in my head, I want to try this Mr. Green


knowing how to sew a basic Jedi costume is really a great place to start...
and a lot of the techniques used on making a Jedi costume using tracings of my pattern will also work on other patterns that one purchases.

The caveat here is that sewing a Jedi costume is where I learned to sew...and...since I taught myself I have not ever been sure that I am doing things the "right" way. Over the years I had so wished that I had taken real sewing lessons as I am probably doing many things wrong....but...I do end up with a costume that looks pretty good...so...
even novices can learn to make this....

Also...the truth is that you probably will make mistakes...
I have made tons of them...
and...
well...
that is how I learn....

know that going in...
you will probably have to take things apart after you have sewn them....so with that in mind...set your sewing machine to make longer stitches so that it will be easy to rip those stitches out. If everything goes together well, then you can run another line of smaller stitches along the same line to make the piece sturdy.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before we get to mating up the skirt portion and the bodice portion...
I decided to work on some of the other details and start assembly of the neck facing.


First the neck and front facing...the most hated and feared part of the costume. I have made a lot of Jedi costumes using this pattern and have done and re-done the neck and front facing pattern more than once...
and have tried several different ways to stitch it on....

so...
this time I am going with technique #3 and see how it goes.


I also used to apply interfacing to the facing...thinking that it would keep the facing more crisp and sturdy...but..it led to other problems...
so this time...
no interfacing (stabilizer)

for more on interfacing:

http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/06/using-interfacing/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5j_U9_MayvA


So, the first thing to do is take two pieces of the front facing (you should have 4) and one piece of the neck facing (you should have 2) and pin them together lining up at the inner perimeter....





and stitch those seams..removing the pins as you go along...





and...again...if you traced my Jedi pattern, you will notice that the outer perimeter does not match up...I apologize for that...as I noted...I have done and re-done these two pattern pieces many times and apparently forgot to trim down the neck facing piece...



not a big deal...just fold the entire piece in half at the neck facing and trim so that the neck facing matches the front facing




Next...though we are not going to sew it on as yet...pin that piece (front facing sewn to neck facing) to the neckline of your finished bodice piece
you just want to check that things line up properly.





make sure that the seam where you joined the front facing to the neck facing lines up with the seam on the bodice piece at the top of the shoulders...





ok...it looks good



so...this crappy photo shows the facing piece pinned to the bodice piece...you will notice the long tails...that is the part that will fit over the skirt when both bodice and skirt are joined...




Now ...put together the other 2 front facings with the 1 neck facing so that you have a pair...remember that one of the facing pieces MUST have right side OUT....


Next...
on to a detail that some folks put in...and others leave off...

shoulder tucks...

Some face character costumes like Obi-Wan require that you have shoulder tucks...
personally...I like the look of shoulder tucks...so I always add them...


take the bodice piece and place right side up




the seam on top is the shoulder and the seam running horizontal is the sleeve



Next...you just...well...tuck...
tuck the top of the sleeve under the shoulder seam and pin



I generally put in 3 pins...the center pin marks the center...and the two outer pins are how far I want to stitch this shoulder tuck...usually less than an inch either side of the center pin




next...take a look at your machine...
does a part of the base of the machine come off like mine?






if so...remove that part of the base....it will make life a lot easier...


put the piece on the machine



and start at the back pin... (sorry for the crappy photo...but you get the idea)



lower the presser foot...remove the pin...and start sewing from that back pin to the front pin...removing pins as you go...






Again...since this is a stitch line that gets quite a bit of abuse, I would reverse your machine and go back over the stitch line at least once...

It will end up looking like this:









do the other side...make sure they match...
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok...set the front facing aside for now...and it is time to join the top (bodice) piece to the bottom (skirt piece)


Take the skirt portion and place on work surface right side up




next
take the bodice piece and place right side down (so right sides are together) and start matching up the center line of the back of the bodice to the center line of the back of the skirt






Again...because I have no serger, I have run a zig-zag stitch line across the top of the skirt portion and the bottom of the bodice portion.

Pin the two pieces together starting at the center line and working your way out to both sides.



Side seams should match up and both pieces should end evenly



Now....use a baste stitch (put your machine on the longest stitch possible...on my machine that is 4-I wish it were longer)





and stitch the top to the bottom from the center out to one side...and then to the other. I do it starting at the center because fabric can stretch as you sew and if you stitch all the way across from one side to the other...things can end up wonky if you are not careful.



Ok...
top and bottom basted together...
is it starting to look like a Jedi tunic?



seams should line up





here it is on a dress form...




next....try it on!!!!!!


If the waist seam is too low, you can bring it up by basting another stitch line in farther from the first...
If the waistline is too high...there isn't much you can do...you probably cut the top pieces too short
BUT
remember too that the waist seam is hidden by the obi....so you can get away with a waist seam that is a bit high...no one will actually see it.
Once you are happy that the waistline is what you want...then run another stitch line over the basting stitch line ....again...this waist seam takes a fair amount of abuse...so if you want to be extra certain...do another line of stitches along that waist seam.



I decided to put the tunic on the dress form and add both the tabards and the obi...

is it starting to look like a Jedi costume??







note in this side view that the back is longer than the front..which is the elliptical hem I was going for...however..since the piece is long enough with sufficient length for the hem...
I might try to make the curve of the hemline more pronounced..






next up....
the dreaded front facing...
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heading into the home stretch...
the front facing..
how successful this piece will be imho is largely dependent on the fabric you choose and if you can cut the front facing on the bias.

Fabric like the one I have chosen for this project will work out best...
again...
and I can not emphasize this enough...stay away from polyester.
Polyester is really plastic and that being said is often stiffer, does not breathe, and can even melt when pressing with an iron.

This fabric is a linen and cotton blend and does really well when pressing. You can right a lot of wrong with a steam iron!

Choose cotton, linen, wool or silk when you choose fabric for your tunic. I also tend to stay away from silk...I made one once out of silk and it is not (in my opinion) a fun fabric to work with. Also, crinkle gauze fabrics...where I love them and use them from time to time...they are also difficult to work with.

That being said...

take out the two facing pieces that you made in the previous post and start pinning them together along the inside edge...right sides together..









Stitch the pieces together along that inside edge removing pins as you go....

So they are now stitched together along the inside edge.. and the next steps will be done on the ironing board







Take the piece (with right sides together) and start to press up about 1/2" along the unstitched, raw edge-again...if you have chosen a natural fiber fabric, this process will be a lot easier than any polyester or polyester blend.






go around the one entire edge...
flip the piece and do the same thing on the other piece of fabric so that you end up with right sides together and a pressed in edge along the outer edge of the fabric that matches each other...





after you have pressed in both outer edges...turn the piece so that the right sides are out..








The piece should look like this...



right sides are out...stitched edge is toward the inside of the piece and pressed edge is the outside of the piece.






Now that the pressed edge is on the outside and the seam is open, line it up to the neck and front of your tunic piece and start to pin it in place...
making sure that the seams where the neck facing is sewn to the front facing matches up to the seam at the top of the shoulder of the tunic. You are making kind of a sandwich...
from the outside the layers should be:
one piece of front facing...
tunic piece
the other piece of front facing...







When pinning, take note of where the pin ends up on the INSIDE of the tunic also. Make sure that when you are pinning that you are going through the top layer of the front facing-through the assembled main piece and catching the other layer of the front facing on the inside of the piece....note where the pin ends up on the inside....
when you stitch the front facing on, you will need to make sure you are going through the seam on the inside also....


also...since you have NOT hemmed your piece yet...when stitching on the front facing...do NOT stitch all the way down to the hemline at this point...leave a couple inched of the front facing near the hemline unstitched....

For some unknown reason, I leave hemming for last.....in reality, this step could be easier if you hem your piece for length first and then put the front facing on...

This neck facing went on pretty good on this piece...



if there are any slight puckers (which happens when you work with curved pieces like a neckline) - with natural fiber fabrics, you can usually press out these imperfections with a steam iron.



Next up...
hemming and final details..
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok...so the neck band is sewn on....we still need to finish that when the entire piece gets hemmed.

One other piece of unfinished business is to sew the other pieces of Velcro to the top seam of the tunic to keep your tabards in place. I will just cut the piece of Velcro a bit shorter than the piece that is on the tabard and just sew it up at the shoulder seam.



Here are both pieces in place...




and you are done with that.

Now to hem the tunic and secure the facing...

Hemming is difficult for me because I live alone...there is no one to help pin and make sure everything is straight...this is compounded by the fact that I wanted to make this tunic have an elliptical hem....
so..
making sure that the piece was cut from the fabric with both sides and back even...
I just pressed in the seam at the bottom about an inch...and pressed it up again another inch making sure that it was pressed evenly across the entire bottom of the tunic.

I then tried it on and decided it was too long. So I took the cut along the press line and started over...in effect, I cut two inches off the length and the entire piece is now 4" shorter than originally cut.

With the new hem pressed and pinned into place, I took the front facing (which was cut long) and pinned that over the tunic.



I used the fabric pencil to mark the inside of the front facing where the hem ends..



Turning the front facing with right sides together....I trimmed off the excess facing and then stitched along that line..




Now folding the facing back so the right sides are out...you can now line up the bottom of the facing and the hem



on the outside of the tunic...it will look like this




Now stitch down that front facing matching up the seam you already have above the bottom





then just sew the hem in and you are done...


Next is hemming the tabards...
now that you know the overall length of your outer tunic...you can hem your tabards to the length desired. Tabards can be longer in the back than in the front like Qui-Gon's...but they should at least come to the hem of your outer tunic according to the rules of the generic Jedi standard.

It would appear that I cut my tabards a little short...and because of the elliptical hem in the back being longer...the tabards do go past the hem in the front...but stop right above the hem in the back. I had put the tabards on the tunic on the dress form and noticed that...so...I had to allow for the smallest hem possible.

I took the tabards raw edges and pressed them in and pinned them..









Here are all 4 tabard ends pressed and pinned...




Now it is just a matter of sewing along the bottom of the tabard. Since we made those detail stitch lines down both long sides of the tabard...start at that stitch line...and go around the bottom sew across the hem of the tabard and up the other side a bit to the other detail stitch line..





and...
you are done with the tabards...

from the back



side



and front



Put the obi back on...
and
viola'



The last thing I have to do is hem the sleeves...
that is pretty straightforward...

sleeves should be long enough that when your arms are at your side, the hem of the sleeves should come to your knuckles...
to long ain't good...
too short is worse...


Next up is taking the same pattern and making a sleeveless outer tunic version....

Of course, since I am using the same fabric...I already have tabards and obi done...
I don't need the sleeve part of the pattern...
so...
all I really need is the two top pieces, the two skirt pieces and the neck and front facing pattern pieces..


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