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Pre-Senate Kimono
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Pre-Senate Kimono Reply with quote

So this Kimono is the next thing on my Star Warsy To Do list. I'm still in the research stages. I think I have found the Gray and burgundy fabric but I was hoping for some advice on how to best recreate the Cloque effect. (I'm assuming that is what is going on here.) The old fashioned way? Sewing a non-shrinking fabric to a shrinking one and giving it a good wash? What would be the best fabric to use? I was thinking of using a knit and stretching it while sewing the chiffon down, but I'm worried the knit wouldn't have the right structure for the final piece.

Here is an image of what I am talking about.

http://www.padawansguide.com/amidala/coruscant1/dag2.jpg

Any ideas? I know some of you have finished this one.

(In the mean time I have lots of beading to occupy my time while I ponder this puzzle.)
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sehanine ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a crincled chiffon in off-white color and sewn it onto blue cotton (cotton- so that the body feels more comfortable). The chiffon is not crincled like clouds, it's 'chaotically linear' and I'm not 100% happy with it however, you can barely see the difference. I have a few photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/atsuri/sets/72157630741609380/

This album is rather messy, you have to scroll down to find the Kimono.

Can't wait to see your photos Smile
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you simply flatline the chiffon on top of the cotton? Or did you secure it more like a quilt?

You said you weren't really happy with it, if you had it to do differently what would you do?

Do you think it would be better to crinkle the chiffon on my own, in rosettes, and then sew it onto a more stable backing? Quilt-like.
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with a stretch knit and chiffon. I'm going to stretch it and sew the chiffon on. If it needs more stability I will use an iron on stabilizer.

I spent the afternoon in photoshop desperately trying to recreate the design found the obi. I think I managed it, or at least a passable version. I uploaded it to Spoonflower and I'm planning on going over the pattern either in gold satin stitching or gold pens. I think a yard and a half should be enough for the obi and a mistake. I ordered a swatch of the pattern, to see if it needs any adjusting before I order the final yardage.

http://www.spoonflower.com/designs/3873791

I also found some nice taffeta on sale last night. Cheep enough that if it turns out it doesn't work writing off all ten yards won't be too painful.
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sehanine ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My apologies I didn't reply earlier, I had a very busy weekend and have just returned home.

Quote:
Did you simply flatline the chiffon on top of the cotton? Or did you secure it more like a quilt?


My chiffon is just a second skirt put on the cotton part, no quilting, no glue, it works well and looks fine. Also, there's no lining to decrease the amount of layers because the biggest problem with this costume is that you feel like a tortilla. That's why I only have a skirt and sort of a scarf for my burgundy part. However, I still can't wear my kimono when the temperature is higher than 25'C.

Quote:
You said you weren't really happy with it, if you had it to do differently what would you do?


Well, the problem is I'm never happy when I can't find (or make) materials that are exactly like the original thing. It's just in my head, I'm a seamstress and I get anxious when I can't make it 'perfect' Wink

Quote:
Do you think it would be better to crinkle the chiffon on my own, in rosettes, and then sew it onto a more stable backing? Quilt-like.


Actually, I have no idea- if you feel like quilting is the right way to do it, then do it Smile If it doesn't look the way it should then look for a different solution. The most important thing is- you should be happy with the result (or at least 80% happy Smile ) and the final result should be close to the original. Simple as that.


As for your obi, the pattern looks great. However, when I was browsing around for any Kimono hints, someone pointed out (can't remember who Sad ), the original obi is not/may not be golden. It's hard to believe it but I've decided to give up on making my pattern in typical, yellow gold. Instead, I used golden acrylic paint (painted the pattern with a small, flat brush) and when it dried I used a silver marker on it. Now I have a golden pattern with silvery shine Smile

I ordered my two tone taffeta from goodfabricstore from China (on ebay). It was ~6,50$/y (the fabric is not flawless, the color is uneven here and there which I've realized just after making the outer kimono...). Of course the first thing I did was ordering a swatch because my first taffeta find was a complete misunderstanding. But I used it up for the lining anyway, so it wasn't that painful for my wallet economy and I have to admit that lining a taffeta with a taffeta makes it look much better. I think the original kimono was made the same way.


So, if you're curious about the amount of layers:
a thin petticoat
a burgundy skirt and a scarf
skirt and blouse- cotton covered with crincled chiffon
an outer kimono- two layers of taffeta
an obi- two layers of painted fabric, double interlining, two layers of upholstery fabric inside to keep it stiff and two small cushions to give it a typical geisha shape.

And an instrument of torture on my head Wink
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was planning on making the underskirts/collar arrangement using the Jedi cheat method. I will be using a short sleeved tissue T-shirt as the base and attaching the collar to it as a dickie. The sleeves will be sewn on the T-shirt as well. I'll make an elastic banded skirt out of the burgundy and add the blue onto it like an apron, just in the front half. Everything that needs to show should and it will seriously cut down on layers. I live in Hawaii, so fewer layers is very important. I think this will end up having fewer layers than my purple senatorial dress. The hat can't be worse than the monsterous cone that goes with the purple senate gown.

I may need a bit of a hoop to add fullness to the skirt, but that should actually help with cooling. Holding the fabric away from my legs and allowing for airflow.

The obi fabric from Spoonflower is just intended to be a guide, I may change the color of the yellow portions to something that won't be as obvious if it is painted. A pale grey of blue, easy to do with the program. Painting sounds like it would be less of a hassle than trying to satin stitch with metallic thread. Having painted a small and repetitive pattern on the tabards, a skirt and an obi of my Asajj, Bounty Hunter costume I really wanted a solid, computer laid out, pattern if I was going to be painting this. It will save me hours of drawing it out by hand. Expensive, but worth it.
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My spoonflower swatch arrived and I am very happy with the result. I may still lighten up the gold color a bit but the pattern cam out beautifully. I may be a bit more square than diamond-ish like I made it but the spots that looked a little wonky on the screen are perfect when printed out.
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sehanine ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would you mind showing us a photo of the swatch? I'm very curious Very Happy
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



I am going to squish it back to square before I print the actual fabric, and then paint over it in gold and silver fabric paint. Not sure which fabric to have it printed on though, I left my spoonflower swatches in Hawaii. Booo

I spent the day making a mockup of the kimono. I am attempting to make it from scratch, using draping techniques. It is a first for me, so it may go horribly wrong. Luckily Kimono's are pretty square, no fancy darts. I still have to sew all the bits together one final time to see how it looks before I call it good. Here are some progress pics. I do have to say, I'm pretty proud of the fact that I managed to make the raglan sleeve from scratch.


The back pleated skirt will be sewn to the back panel. (This will be cut on the fold)



The front panel and sleeve.


I still may make the sleeve wider. A second look at my reference pics showed it was very puffy when viewed from the side. A more annoying fact the side view showed me is that the scrollwork was done after the sleeves were constructed. They appear to be a pair of thin gold cords couched in place with thread and pearls, and they pass over the seams uninterrupted. Should be interesting.


Edit to add: I squished my pattern and uploaded it here.
http://www.spoonflower.com/designs/3913040
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like a good start for patterning!

Remember with the obi, that you will need to fool us into thinking it looks like an embroidered brocade, so fabric weight and luster are really important.

If it helps your process at all, I tried to pattern Apailana's kimono using math rather than draping. I haven't actually mocked anything up yet, but this might be useful to you to compare notes.
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The math was very interesting, and likely not something I could have done myself (I'm a linguist, math is not game.) It will definitely help me out with the angles of the skirt. Funny note. I also came to the conclusion that the sleeves were on an angle, though mine are not as severe as your Apilana's.

I was actually tempted to use the printed pattern as an embroidery template and hand embroider the entire obi. I have been working on some simple embroidery for a current project and I have gotten pretty fast (60 hours of embroidery in and I am just under half way done, lots of practice.) Working with metallic threads is a pain however, and the biggest thing holding me back. If I can find some decent metallic embroidery thread, not that horrible foil wrapped over a thread core stuff that catches and strips away, maybe I will give it a go. How are the metallic embroidery floss threads to work with? Anyone know?

I ordered a yard of the pattern on cotton last night, as well as some metallic fabric paint. Enough to make an obi with plenty for experimenting on first. I was tempted to use a stiffer more textured fabric to help simulate the embroidery but decided against it for now. It will be backed in a stiff silk I have left over from an actual obi I deconstructed to make a steampunk corset.
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have begun the hand beading of the headdress strands. I estimate, if 17 seed beads per inch math is correct, that it will take me 23k seed beads to complete the headdress. I picked up a bead spinner to hasten the task and it has already proven it will be worth it's weight in gold. It takes about 15-20 seconds to load 3 inches worth of seed beads with the spinner. I can probably get faster with practice.

I also realized I am going to need some way to store all these strands, and some way to make sure I am getting them they right length, they have a V gradient. So I did more math. 12 strands per inch. roughly 5 inches along each side of lace. And the gradient goes from 32 inches to 12 inches over that 5 inch side. I worked it out to 4 inches up for every inch over. Or 1/3 of an inch decrease per strand. I then marked out 1/3 inch increments on an old cardboard tube left over from some fabric I ordered. I can put a check mark beside the dashes to mark the ones I have already made, and I will make two of each strand. I also tossed a note on there as to which strands will have 5mm pearls, since they don't all have them.



Next I needed storage that would keep them from getting tangled and keep them in the proper order. No point measuring them all out to let them get all mixed up and tangled and ruined. So I grabbed the other half of the tube and a pack of quilting pins I had purchased on accident. 120 pins later I have tangle free storage.





I also made a final mockup of my kimono and I am very happy with it. I ordered a charcoal grey, lavender shot dupioni silk for the final piece. I will have to line it with something sturdier, but I think the silk will have the desired look to it. I am thinking about getting a burgundy shot teal silk for the red portion. I ordered a swatch and we will see how it goes. If it works I will crush it myself and sew the pleats in.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love your approach to this. Hurrah for math!
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Kahna ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started beading the lace. It's a bit more floral than I would have liked, but I think with some minor adjustments to how I lay down the beads I can disguise most of the floral elements and give it an abstract scroll look.

It still looks little like the original, other than being lace with beading, but I don't know how to manipulate my embroidery programs to make lace, and I only have a 4x4 embroidery hoop so it would be a nightmare getting it all lined up and done right. I also have absolutely no idea how to go about tatting lace (and no desire to learn).

The lace is sandwiched between two different water soluble stabilizers.

Good news is I will need far fewer bead strands than I originally thought. Just need to redo my gradient math.

Bad news, the company that was shipping me my jumbo Easter eggs, sent me two dozen small eggs instead. Ugh! I contacted them and they are sending the real eggs this time. . . I hope.

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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like what you have done so far and look forward to seeing the finished result on this. Smile
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