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DW Design Studios X-Wing Helmet Tutorial

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DW Design ()

Joined: 01 Aug 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 9:55 pm    Post subject: DW Design Studios X-Wing Helmet Tutorial Reply with quote

Hello, as some of you may know I’m selling X-Wing helmet kits.

Here is a step by step tutorial on how to assemble one.
Please PM me if your interested in a kit, decals or finished helmet.
Thanks, Darren
DW Design Studios

Helmet kit along with tools needed for assembly.
SAFETY GLOVES and GLASSES are a MUST when working with power tools.

I mark the areas in pencil that I plan to cut off. Use a Dremel or a utility knife to cut away this area away.

It's important to round off the corner here. DO NOT let this area come to a point. It will cause a crack that will not be fixable.

For people with larger heads you may need to cut this area back.

Use whatever is needed to clean up all the edges. A mouse sander works great.

Trim the mowhawk area of the helmet so that it is flat.

Scuff up the top of the helmet as well and the 3 small spacers. Also scuff up the inside of the long mowhawk strip. This will give the CA glue a little extra something to stick to.

Glue the three small spacer pieces to the inside of one half of the helmet.

Start for the front and glue the second half of the helmet to the first spacer. It very important to get the front lined up first. Then glue the middle then back spacer last.

This is one of the trickier parts of the build. You want to start from the front and slowly work your way back. I use the CA glue here but not the CA accelerator.

Once again, slowly work your way back using just the CA glue.

You will need a heat gun for this part. Set it on low and slowly heat the strip. *You can get a Heat Gun for around $20 at Harbor Freight*

Glue the remaining strip to the helmet. DO NOT add the CA glue while the pieces are still warm, the mixture of heat and CA glue puts off a hazardous vapor.

Add CA glue to the inside of the mowhawk to make it nice and sturdy.

Mark the curve with a pencil. Cut away and clean up the edge.

Check the top and side curves of the helmet. Even it out and make sure both sides are symmetrical. Also try it on and check the fit. You may need to open up the back curve a bit for comfort.

Cut the front cap piece along the line marked in pencil.

This is another difficult piece to get fitted correctly. You will need to slowly trim this till it fits properly. Once again, make sure this corner is rounded off a little bit.
A hard edge corner will crack and cause problems.

Mark the chin strap in pencil and trim.

Take the 3/4" black webbing and mark the area to be cut. I use the soft paper Dremel cutting tool to cut away this area.

Check for size and clean up as needed. *Emery Boards work great for tight areas. You can get them cheap at the Dollar Store*.

Cut the visor along the pre-marked line.

I like to use this tool on my Dremel for this area. *The visors are spray painted from the outside. Any scrapes of blemishes can be cleaned up with a yellow highlight marker*

This is how everything should look up to this point.

Here's a pic of the glue and paint I like to use. The glue is Insta-Cure Gap Filling Cyanoacrylate. I also use the Accelator with it.
The primer is the Wal Mart brand. Paint is Krylon Fusion for Plastic (Gloss White). If using decals you will also need the Krylon Fussion Crystal Clear.
*I forgot the Black paint for the photo. The Wal Mart brand (Flat Black) is also needed.

Clean up the mic tip as needed. Then start with a small hole. Work you way up till the wire fits snugly.

Use the CA glue and attach the wire to the mic tip.

Add painters tape to the wire.

Primer the helmet, chin and mic tip. Primer and paint to the inside the helmet is not needed but can be done if you would like.

Once the primer is dry, sand and cleanup as needed.
Paint the helmet and chinstrap white. Paint the mic tip black.
Darren Wright
Central California Garrison
TK-1068, BH-1068, ID-1068, TS-1068, CT-1068, CP-1068, DZ-1068, AR-1068
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