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Dharma trading fabric
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jedi_keith ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 8:01 pm    Post subject: Dharma trading fabric Reply with quote

I've seen several post mention this is currently the closest to screen accurate obi-wan OT fabric but I've never seen anymore then just a sample of it. Anyone care to share theirs or know someone who has used this material that they can post their completed tunic?

Also I noticed dharma has two different weights the lighter weight appears to be mentioned more often but the heavier in their description says works great for star wars tunics. Anyone have experience with both and care to give their opinion?


Thanks
MTFBWY


Last edited by jedi_keith () on Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am currently in the process of finishing several sets of Obi-Wan prequel ensembles with this exact material. It is a dead on match to the real thing as compared to photos I've seen of the screen used costume and also pictures I've seen from the Dressing a Galaxy swatches.

As far as the which version of the material to use, you definitely want the lighter weight fabric. I have both and the heavy weight is far too thick for this costume. The heavy material is really great fabric but definitely not right for a prequel Obi-Wan costume.

Here is a close up shot to show the weave of the material:







Here is a shot of one of my ensembles at Rhode Island Comic Con 2015 with Boba Fett himself, Jeremy Bulloch:


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jedi_keith ()
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2016 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That came out great! Thanks for sharing! couple questions if you don't mind. Did you use just 1 layer or is it multiple? I'm assuming the other material is to line the sleeves? If so looks like a great match. Did you get it through Dharma too? What was your washing process for the fabric?

Again thanks it looks amazing!
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to help!

My pre treatment process for all of the fabrics I use is to wash on the hottest setting I can and dry on the hottest setting I can. I typically do this process twice before I even cut out the pieces of my garments so that when they're assembled, there is no risk of them shrinking on me when laundered. For this material I did the process four times because the weave of this material is so loose.

It's a bit tricky to work with because of that and the crinkles stretch out, but once the garment is finished and washed again on hot and dried on hot the texture returns to normal. In fact I'm glad I worked with this stuff so much because I had to be super precise with my seams in order to get the look that I was going for. So much so, that when working with any other fabric since, the quality of my work has improved exponentially because of it! The next Tunic/ Tabards/ Sash set I make with this will be my fifth and likely final set.

I did purchase this direct from Dharma Trading company and I would highly suggest that you order about twice what you would estimate you need. Between the fabric shrinking and the double layers for the Tabards, Sash and Collar of the Tunic, you need a lot of material. Especially when you also have to account for cutting the sash on the bias for Episode II and III sets. For Episode I, the sash was cut so the crinkles lay horizontally. For my patterns I ended up using 16 yards of fabric for each Tunic Set. In all I used 80 yards of this fabric.

I did multiple versions of my Obi-Wan Costumes. I did two prototypes with it as a means to test my pattern and practice working with the fabric. For the Episode I version I made it exactly like the screen used one and there is no lining with the exception of the satin lined sleeves. For the Episode III version I lined the sleeves and skirt in satin, but kept the main body unlined, as per the screen used costume. For this final version I will line the entire thing (satin for the sleeves and skirt and cotton muslin for the main body to allow the fabric to breathe better) for several reasons. To one, give the tunic set a bit more durability, and two to help hold the shape of the cut. I know that it won't be 100% screen accurate because of this, but it will be worth the extra effort.

Another tip I would highly suggest is that when you make your sash, do NOT use velcro to secure it. While you can get away with velcro on most fabrics, this material and velcro do not mix. Lol. They used hook and bar for a closure method on the real sash for the same reason, which is what I used for all of mine.

Sorry for the super long post, but I hope I answered your questions. I will post more pictures of my ensembles as they are completed.

Psab

P.S. One detail that makes the Episode III Tunic set stand out a bit different from the Episode I and II Tunic sets are the Tabards. Not only are they longer in the front when compared to the earlier versions of the costume, but another detail that often gets overlooked by most fans replicating it, is that where they lay over the shoulders, they are about an inch narrower than the edge of the shoulder tuck so that the tuck peeks out just a bit. Note where the arrow points in the following shots to illustrate this. I think the narrower width on the Episode III actually give the Tunic a very different silhouette.




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jedi_keith ()
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!!! Thanks for all the great info I greatly appreciate it! You said you had both the light and heavyweight of this fabric. Did you ever try to use the heavyweight just for your tabbards and obi? Curious if they would come out just as well as using 2-3 layers of the lightweight material? I've read before people using a walking foot with the crinkle cotton, did you end up using one for this material? Seeing as you have all these prototypes sitting around I'll gladly take 1 of them off your hands we look about the same size HAHA! Thanks again for all your help! Def look forward to seeing your final and finished project!
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the compliments. As far as using the heavy weight version, it wouldn't look right to use the heavy and light together because they both have a different texture and the colors don't precisely match.

I tried using the walking foot but I've never had much luck with it especially on this fabric.

The prototypes have sold but I will be selling the next ones once complete . I'll post more pictures when I get a chance.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which version are you looking to do because depending on your size I can sell a set to you if you like?
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jedi_keith ()
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to do EP III
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noted.

I am going to start a thread dedicated to these ensembles in the Sale forum so as not to hijack your thread and to make sure my work is in the correct place.

Thank you! Psab
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Matt2 ()



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually bought Nathan's outer tunic made of that particular fabric. Looks exactly like the screen used fabric and weighs very nice.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So glad you are happy with it!
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jasonious ()



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is this fabric for an episode IV old Ben tunic? I don't do silk, so I'm on the hunt for an alternative that still has good texture, particularly the vertical stripes.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This material is definitely not the one you would want to use for a Ben Kenobi robe. It's too loosely woven and the threads aren't thick enough.

I see that you are based in Toronto. Doug Bobafuss was able to source screen accurate fabric by King Textiles and it isn't too expensive either. It's a hand woven silk with a nearly identical texture and weave to the original.
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Cobalt-60 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jasonius doesn't do animal products (wool, silk, leather).

is there something 'not silk' which would make a good obi-IV tunic?
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jasonious ()



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Psab Keel, I read the Bobafuss thread about the raw silk from King Textiles, so I swung by there to have a look and try and find a non-silk fabric that was similar, but wasn't too successful. I thought I'd found a cotton that had a nice texture, but it's weave is the wrong direction.

Cobalt-60, thanks for the clarification.

The search continues.
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