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who makes Endor rank badges?
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good work!

ok---im going to bite.

what are the silver parts that look like .38 brass?
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'nott sH'urr wrote:


what are the silver parts that look like .38 brass?


They are from a computer mother board...
I scavenged some cool looking stuff from an old motherboard awhile back...put them in a jar...and...looks like they might come in handy...

Wink

I have looked at lots of photos of this piece...
many photos were from Biker Scouts already approved...and ...
well...
suffice it to say that there are a lot of different versions out there...
lol...
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

after looking at various pieces...
and what the one really odd looking piece was...

a piece from a Ferrari model car kit....yes...kit bashing at its' finest...
and..
knowing I was NOT going to spend $80.00 and up for one of the original kits...

I am back to trying to fabricate something close...

I am also working on the Endor Trooper rank badge...the one that I had was a bit oversized and heavy and ....well...kinda cr*ppy...
so I am trying to re-do that at the same time...

so...
as of this morning...
watching paint and glue dry....




I have another teeny-tiny critical piece glued and drying....

one thing I have figured out is that working on some of this tiny scale is NOT for folks with arthritic fingers..

Rolling Eyes
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And...this is where I am at with the project...






the Scout thermal det greeblie is done...I just need to wetsand the last coat of paint and it will be ready to mold up.

I usually always paint the wood that the greeblie is made out of just to make sure that no woodgrain is visible in the surface and I think it unmolds better....

What I decided to do is to finish the Biker Scout greeblie first...make the mold...then cast one pouring casting resin only into the one part of the greeblie that I need to finish the Endor Rank badge....I can then add that cast to the original piece I have started...and then make a separate mold for the Rank Badge...

The original model piece comes from the 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 312T4 model kit. The piece itself goes on the engine.

and it looks like this:


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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had some issues with the first mold...that contaminated the original "sculpt"...

as noted...when making pieces from wood I feel it is important to not see any woodgrain at all...
so I sand the piece first...but still add a layer of primer to seal the piece....sand...and add another layer of primer...
sculpts with all of this fussy small stuff is really hard to sand properly...

anyway...
I have done this before with "Rebound 25" with no issues...
but..
when I used "Mold Star" on a previous project, the MS never cured at the surface of the sculpt and became a gooey mess and contaminated the sculpt...
I thought I had done something else wrong with the mixing of the Mold Star...
so..
in doing this project first time around, I used Mold Star again...
bad choice..
same thing happened...a gooey mess...and a contaminated sculpt...

I did not want to start over again...so I cleaned up the sculpt...then sealed it with their super seal product...

and...
molded the original sculpt a second time...this time in Rebound...
and..

finally...

a finished Scout greeblie piece...




It still has to be cleaned up a bit from the molding process...
then painted...

next I poured the casting product only into the part of the mold that is supposed to simulate the original model piece that comes from the 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 312T4 model kit....
that piece will then be cleaned up and attached to the rest of the Endor Rank badge that I have prepared...

once that is done...
I can make a mold of the Endor rank badge...
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great job!
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnndddddd
I am done...

Here is the Scout greeblie - I painted one up to see if there were any issues with the surface of the cast piece...
thankfully...
no...





Then on to the Endor rank badge.

I took one of the casts of the Scout greeblie and cut out the piece on the right side....sanded it ....and glued it to the Endor Rank Badge that I had otherwise completed except for that piece...




Next on to molding the rank badge...

this is just reference for those who have never done molding and casting...

try it ....it can be fun...it can also be frustrating...lol...

First of all....you can find everything you need and need to know at Smooth-On

http://www.smooth-on.com/

Locally I buy Smooth-on products from Reynolds Advanced Materials:

http://www.reynoldsam.com/

At the Smooth-on site there is an area marked Videos:

http://www.smooth-on.com/media.php

For the most part...this is where I learned to do this stuff.

I was a bit stunned when I ordered some new supplies recently...prices have gone up quite a bit since I started doing this a couple years ago...

anyway...

the rank badge...

With the Scout piece added to the Endor piece, it was time to make a mold.

Find an appropriate sized box....I use some inexpensive gift boxes for sale at Michaels...

before I do anything else, I spray the box with the two coats of Smooth-on Super seal....light coats and let dry between...

then a coat of the Ease Release 205 - also thin coat....

When the box has dried, I cut a piece of plain paper the size of the box....





Next is something you won't find in the videos....a trick I figured out after my first mold that had some issues with the edges of the mold. In the videos they have you apply some hot glue to the bottom of the piece....it leaves you with a lot of flashing to trim and if you are not careful, you can compromise your casts...

I take the piece to be molded and apply a decoupage glue to the entire back of the piece and then center the piece to be molded on the paper and from the back side smooth the paper to the glue making sure that all of the piece is flatly adhered to the paper....no gaps...





Next place the piece with the paper glued to the back into the box...




Mix your molding rubber...I find that the product I like to use best is "Rebound 25"....this is a slow cure platinum silicone and seems to give the best results.

Rebound is mixed 1:1





Make sure that you mix it completely...one part of Rebound is white and the other is salmon colored...you can see streaks when you first mix...make sure that there are no streaks in your finished mix...



Next...let's talk about those bubbles....
bubbles are the enemy....but mostly when you use a slower cure silicone, those bubbles will release to the surface...

Pour from one side...I hold the container of mixed silicone high above the piece and start to pour in one corner...the act of the product flowing down releases some bubbles...and as the product moves across the piece, more bubbles are released...



Once all the rubber is poured, I do what chocolatiers do...I start slamming the mold onto the counter and this helps release more bubbles...I will do the slamming on the counter off and on for about 15 minutes...

and I mark what time the mold should be cured




One thing I sometimes forget is that when I am doing this in the winter...my house is usually only about 60 degrees...I keep the thermostat low in my house....
this product will cure in 6 hours at 73 degrees...in my cold house...it takes longer....
I forgot this (again) and after 6 1/2 hours I took the original cast of the Endor rank badge out of the mold...and it was not fully dry at the surface of the piece...leaving some of the detail fuzzy because the mold material was not completely set at the surface of the piece..

so I started over...this time I am leaving the mold to set for a good 7-8 hours...removed the mold from the box...removed the paper...but left the sculpt in the mold...
and turning on one of the burners on my stove and placing the piece near it...

this is the second mold curing the rest of the way...




I did cast a few pieces out of the original mold...
and here is a photo of the new cast vs the old cast...

new cast is on the left




A little later, I will pull the sculpt out of the second mold...and hopefully...
it will be fully dry and the detail more crisp...
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow Phyllis.....again, a wonderful and extremely well illustrated how-to.

could you do us all a big favor and post that as a new reply to this original tutorial thread?

I know personally I have talked to a LOT of people about resin. I ask them to go to the sites, watch the videos etc and they often do not.

here you have all the work literally done as far as research, bundled into one cohesive topic. having this as a new tutorial would really help out some people.


http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19570
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted it ...
along with basic leatherworking...

DH-17 holsters...

I just kinda copied and pasted what I had posted before...so I hope the entries make sense...

Generally you will find that when I start new projects I do take rather extensive photos and post a wip mainly to get other people to TRY things...

I never had any instruction in sewing, leatherworking, sculpts/molds/casting and learned all of it through trial and error...
mostly error...
but you can really surprise yourself sometimes...
and the more you try..
the more you do..
the better you become and you are no longer reliant on doing only costumes that you can buy....
can't find something to buy?
you make it yourself...

Wink
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Blair (Vlastimil Sprta)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello all ...

I am searching for source/propmaker this specific rank badge ...



I search through Endor Bunker, but I am not able to see/found file Endor rank badges.pdf Sad

Any ideas? Sad
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to make that one...
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Rebel_Scum84 ()



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 11:44 am    Post subject: Endor badge Reply with quote

I bought one from this Guy in the Uk, I'm very happy with it.

http://www.djdesigns.eu/Endor_Commando_Rank_Badge/p2292763_10907618.aspx

He also does R2 pieces and Scout Trooper pieces (which can be used for soft pack upper greeble)
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JarheadinDE (Matt)



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for bringing this topic back from the dead but I have a question in regards to the rank badge. Is there different badges for different ranks? I am looking for a Sgt's badge. My character that I am shooting for is an old grizzly veteran commando Sgt.

Any help would be appreciated.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blair wrote:




I search through Endor Bunker, but I am not able to see/found file Endor rank badges.pdf Sad

Any ideas? Sad


.
I keep finding really awful looking ones of these on Etsy, but I've been unable to find a decent looking one. I already have the other chest badge, but not this arm one, so I don't need both. Can anybody help me out? A 3d print file would be awesome, or I could just buy one from someone here.

I found this seller on eBay, and I've sent an inquiry as to purchasing only one but I've no response yet
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162503648683
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navarre1095 (CHARLES GRAY)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somebody needs to hurry up and do a 3D model of these so we can start printing them as needed.
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