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Plo Koon (CW) style build thread - a Rubies Mod
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try to get in touch with a guy who goes by the name of Korbanth

Plo's saber is the same as the saber Mace Windu had in TPM, and there's a long standing (years) run of several sabers that he's getting made via Parks, it would at least save you paying for Parks electronics if he has any what he would call MW1 left.

Then you could put in electronics later on at your leisure from TCSS, or in theory hire someone to do it for you.

Just trying to help my friend.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate it Yet again. Smile

I will first try to build my own and then we'll see.

Mask came it today. It's soft and it's difficult for it to hold shape.

I'll have to buy latex and thicken the inside at least 3mm more with latex wet cloth bands and then add the padding shaped like the head to help it maintain the right shape.

I've seen the "fat cheeked" effect this mask tend to have and Plo has a rather slender shape to the mouth area. I Really need to pay a lot of attention to this. The shape is 50% of the look of this mask.

Mouth breather insides definitely need a skeleton to help maintain the entire area of the filter in shape. I'll also open the holes in the front to add a computer fan to inject air into the mask and on my face.

Adding the inside lenses is easy... i'll sculpt them tonight.

Filter tusks need to be detached and re-attached in the right sides as they're attached backwards.

Velcro needs to be added to the back seam and the "Rubies" mark has to be removed carefully.

Finally the entire mask needs to be repainted accurately.


It'll be one hell of a job but It'll be FUN! Evil or Very Mad
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I´m an obsessive nerf herder I know... but here are the first pics of what I´m now doing to the mask just a few hours after unboxing it. Hope this works for someone else:

first thing I got to do was to fill the mask with plpastic bags as packed as I could to keep the shape tight for work, I then removed the filters and tripe looking apendages.


as you can tell the left (real lefty) filter was bent out of shape in transport


so I filled the insides of both to force them into shape. Some heat was applied to the lefty to reshape and lock it with cold water before filling it with paper.


I then cut the excess latex tubes where the filters should be attached.

The filters are supposed to be coming into contact with the breather so i just cut about 3/4 of an inch of it and re attached the filters being VERY careful to maintain the right position on each one for about a minute before releasing. Lots of superglue on fingers but that comes with the trade...







with the filter tusks attached again... looking good now.




I then reglued the tripe looking tubes with E-6000 back into place.

Now here something that kept bothering me... the nose pinch was completely out of whack... what to do... the only way to recreate the right shape would be to create a sort of skeleton to glue on the inside of the mask to force it into the right shape...




and then it hit me! I had a cheapo rubber Green Lantern mask that came with a lighted version of the power ring...


If I glued this mask on the inside I could create a skeleton to shape the skin of the mask to the right shape...


and so I did! Using a mixture of superglue and E-6000


will it work?? i honestly don´t know but I have my hopes High.

It is now 4 in the morning... I´m very sleepy and tired... mask is now resting with a lot of wooden cloth clasps (I have no idea how they´re called in English) while the E-6000 and superglue mixture dries up.

I guess we´ll find out in the morning...


Here´s the video Log of each phase.
Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRKGTIRXi0w

part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQfkYlPyTBU

part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWgV-WK4qpU

more on it soon...
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, there´s a reason why I attached the tusk filters pointing so close to the chest.

I´ll cover that when I create the skeleton armature for the mouth breathing mask but the basic thing is that the mouth breather is too wide on the chin because the mask tends to flatten itself on it´s own weight. Part of the armature idea will be to tighten the inside of the tusk attachments tighter towards themselves on their upper part and separate them further with a plastic tab or plaque or something on the lower part.

the effect this creates is a nice reshaping of the mouth breather. I have to leave home to purchase latex before the store closes and browse for possible parts for the lightsaber in my local hardware stores.

I´ll get back and post more pictures of it when it´s done.

Cheers!!
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok... so I used a tad less E-6000 than it was required and when I moved the mask half of the GL mask came off.

SO i used a generous amount of E-6000 in my second attempt to attach the GL mask ot the inside of Plo´s face.





this was at 9 in the morning. It ios now 6 in the afternoon and I removed the clothespins





Perfect!!

Now to start measuring, cutting and gluing the mouth breather armature.

I´m pretty happy with how it´s shaping up.

On the bad side of news: the bucks for the handplates and gauntlets was not ready... the guy hadn´t even started cutting the damned wood! Mad

He promised to have the bucks ready for next week so the gaunts will have to wait one more week.
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its looking realy nice, i filled mine with foam filler in the breath mask and ears
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks buddy!

I want to make sure I avoid making the head wide on the sides to prevent a fat looking Plo. The Clone wars version shows him as being fairly athletic and although his sensorial buns (man we need to name those things... seriously) do protrude sideways his face is kinda slender cheeked.

my biggest fight right now is the internal armature to keep the maw slender while giving the forehead the accurate shape it must have.

Another thing that is worrying me is air. the mask will be fully enclosed with the ONLY air intakes being the lenses (through the tiny little holes) and the little holes in the mouth filters.

I'm starting to think that it might be a good idea to adapt 2 computer fans inside the tusk filter attachment tubes and open an air intake on the back of the tusks with mesh to inject air into the mask.

I plan on wearing that thing for 6 hours every day... airing is a MUST. Confused
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i tried putting a fan in but failed miserably. the longest i have worn it is 2 hours straight, i even did a lightsaber demo in it which was a big mistake. its actually not that bad inside when you get used to it and quite easy to slip on and off when yo need a breather
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big mistake on the lightsaber demo?? hahaha What happened?
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the heat was intolerable i couldnt breath. also every time i lifted my arms up my chest pushed the tusks up which made the eye holes go up, so for most of the routine i couldnt see anything. i did everthing by feel and trusting my partner to be in the right place. lukily we have been doing this for a while so it worked

also are you replacing the silver metal parts on the tusks. they are cable adaptors for the TV
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I plan on going to the local Radioshack for them yeah. metal will always look nicer than those plastic things.

One way I always avoid my latex masks from lifting up (I have a Jason costume and a Freddy) is by using a "clasp system" pair of elastic straps (the ones that look like a Y used for pants) and use it upside down with the large band clasping the back border of the mask and and the other 2 clasping the frontal borders. If you tighten the elastics to your torso I guarantee the mask will never lift unless you pull way too hard.

I wonder if I might be able (With help of course) to put my head with a balaklava inside the mask and then have a helper foam fill the inside of the cranium while I maintain the head in the right shape in front of a mirror.

that will surely guarantee that the "Padding inside will form fit my nogging....

Only thing to be careful with is for the foam not to run down the neck as that will trap my head inside the mask and I would hate ruining it....

I wonder...
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

General_Koon wrote:
I plan on going to the local Radioshack for them yeah. metal will always look nicer than those plastic things.

One way I always avoid my latex masks from lifting up (I have a Jason costume and a Freddy) is by using a "clasp system" pair of elastic straps (the ones that look like a Y used for pants) and use it upside down with the large band clasping the back border of the mask and and the other 2 clasping the frontal borders. If you tighten the elastics to your torso I guarantee the mask will never lift unless you pull way too hard.

I wonder if I might be able (With help of course) to put my head with a balaklava inside the mask and then have a helper foam fill the inside of the cranium while I maintain the head in the right shape in front of a mirror.

that will surely guarantee that the "Padding inside will form fit my nogging....

Only thing to be careful with is for the foam not to run down the neck as that will trap my head inside the mask and I would hate ruining it....

I wonder...


It would also increase your heat levels by a great deal I imagine, no?
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that might be relative.

High levels of heat due to cavernous space allowing condensed air and heat to literally create a steaming pot effect or high levels of heat because I have a pillow over my head trapping heat and sweat.

Neutral

ahh decisions decisions...
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The foam would also grow stinky from sweat.

You could try to devise a system wherein the material you use to support the mask can also help get heat OUT of the mask through a couple of carefully placed pinholes or some such?
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good point. the foam padding should be insulated from sweat. Perhaps a light coating with latex could do the trick.

either the padding should have the capacity to be removed for cleaning or the padding must be sealed in latex to the inside of the mask. this insulating it from sweat...
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