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Plo Koon (CW) style build thread - a Rubies Mod
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

General_Koon wrote:
Drazhar wrote:
I know that feeling about the budget thing, but the world of custom lightsabers is just soooo engrossing, I can't help but want THE BEST!

Y'know?


I know right?? haha

yeah it's so easy to drift away in this hobby. my wife already saw that glimpse in my eye last night and she said... "Oh what's the use... just do the damned thing already and show it to me when it's done..." LOL

Drazhar wrote:
As for the approval, the lack of standards means nobody has done it yet. Make it as accurate as possible, then submit it and write the standards yourself!

That's my understanding of how it works.

As for the gaunts and whatnot, I'm not sure. 501 and RL standards are different as the groups are different as well.


Yeah, that's an awesome Idea. If I can help to get this costume a a CRL Standard for you guys I'll do it with pleasure.

I PMd Mark on it and he advised me to do the clone wars styled gaunts just to keep in line with the pictures I would send for App. that being said I'll start sculpting them this next weekend in balsa wood then coat them in gelcoat to create vacuforming bucks and then make them in vacuformed HIPS plastic. they'll look cool that way.


I look forward to seeing your results good sir.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... I've been reading over and over about the Multiple ways to create the core workings of a lightsaber and the more I read the more confused I become. Way too many variables.

So I decided to start small.

I just bought one of those nice Force FX removable blade Anakin Lightsabers.

I'll transfer the inner core of the lightsaber to my Plo Koon hilt when I get if from Frank and keep the Hilt of the Anakin Saber for display purposes only (Later on I'll try to make one of those beautiful display sabers with reveal core and crystal bits)

Sometime next year I'll upgrade the lightsaber to a Luxeon kit as I like the resistance of the blade.

I'm no good at figuring out electronic stuff and so many possible variables scare me a bit. Neutral
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

General_Koon wrote:
Well... I've been reading over and over about the Multiple ways to create the core workings of a lightsaber and the more I read the more confused I become. Way too many variables.

So I decided to start small.

I just bought one of those nice Force FX removable blade Anakin Lightsabers.

I'll transfer the inner core of the lightsaber to my Plo Koon hilt when I get if from Frank and keep the Hilt of the Anakin Saber for display purposes only (Later on I'll try to make one of those beautiful display sabers with reveal core and crystal bits)

Sometime next year I'll upgrade the lightsaber to a Luxeon kit as I like the resistance of the blade.

I'm no good at figuring out electronic stuff and so many possible variables scare me a bit. Neutral


To www.fx-sabers.com/forum you should go, many helpful people and a friendly community.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"A book must never be judged by it's cover"...

I kept away form that forums because it seemed, on first impression, that it was a forum for very difficult and expensive Lightsaber prop builders. following the link the first thing I found was the most amazing and comprehensive list of tutorials and guides for conversions and scratch-building ever.

Wow!

Once again I appreciate the help my friend.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dobby Hands just came in!

The look good but they're a bit.... big. Lots of padding will be needed on these.
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

General_Koon wrote:
Dobby Hands just came in!

The look good but they're a bit.... big. Lots of padding will be needed on these.


You know how it goes!



Post em up!
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hahaha here they go man:

taken in my work desk!

My Plo Koon action figure came in at the same time. Love it!



the hands














with thick gloves I'll be able to make them look a lot better. That will raise the temperature drastically but I rather deal with the heat than with ugly folding skin hands. Razz
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well... being the desperate being that I am, I sat down this morning to try and make the gloves for the hands.

I had a couple of cheapo Darth Vader gloves on hand that I cut the finger off, removed the inner walls of the middle and ring finger and sew the borders together on the inside (flipping the gloves first of course)



I then added a spot of superglue (Just a drop) to each of the unions where I cut the fingers to stop the thread from coming undone.



this is the result:











with padding inside the gloves to stop the fingers from folding it´ll look great!

The wood molds for the handplate and the gauntlet Bucks for vacuforming will be ready next week so I hope to have the first pulls for these parts during next weekend.
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Drazhar ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah, definitely looking forward to seeing the gloves finished.
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking good so far mate
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.

Today I'm making the mold for the talons. hopefully I'll have the first pulls tomorrow.

Hartss: you interested in a Kit buddy? let me know.

cheers!

P.D.

I already started on the CRL for this costume. Here's my first draft and I would like for you guys to see it and allow me your thoughts. Is it too strict? perhaps too complicated?

I prefer a detailed (Spoon fed) list. thus is great for newbs. It makes for an easy to follow guide.


Plo Koon (Clone Wars Jedi General Armor Style)



Required minimum Items:

1. Full head and neck covering Latex mask. Rubies Deluxe edition Plo Koon mask accepted. Silicone mask suggested. Rubies regular latex mask is NOT allowed for submission as it lacks details important to the look character.

The rubies deluxe mask MUST be modified for acceptance (correct installation of the mouth tusk filters), adding the holed lenses with the right pattern (the mask has no lenses at all inside the rims) are a must.
Padding must be installed to achieve the right shape of the head. Masks that cave in on themselves or loose shape while being worn will not be accepted. Hard padding inside the mouth filter to maintain the correct shape encouraged. Just this area will help the rest of the mask maintain shape in front of the public. Kids and specially Clone Wars fans can be VERY nitpicky about looks.

2. Hands must be molded to have 4 fingers with the “middle one” being the thickest one (accommodating 2 fingers inside). Latex “Dobby hands” accepted with modification to paint color and color stain schemes added. The middle finger talon must be added. Color of these talons must match the mask’s mouth filters and lenses in a sort of aged copper color.
dobby hands must have internal padding to prevent “wrinkling” and the latex to cave in with movement.


Dobby fingernails are accepted as it but replacement of nails with acrylic nails with the right shape is encouraged however, do so only if you have the knowhow to achieve it. We do not wish for you to ruin a perfectly healthy pair of 4 fingered gloves in your quest for accuracy.

Hands must wear black, leather, pleather or rubber fingerless gloves. Middle and ring fingers must be modified to be attached as to make on single finger.

Custom made fingerless gloves in the size for the 4 fingered hands is encouraged for better results.


3. Pants and undershirt must be a light mossy-khaki green. Undershirt may not have sleeves.
Undershirt should have a 2 ribbed round neck much in the style of the “Lost in space” uniforms and should not be completely tight on the mask’s neck. At least an inch or “Looseness” should be noticeable between the mask neck and the undershirt’s neck. No front nor sideways closing system (Buttons, Velcro or zipper) is visible. This should be added to the back if need to.

Long sleeved Shirt must be a light chocolate color. It should be V shaped, overlapped right over left in the front and the sleeves should be arm snug without being overtly tight nor baggy.
Shirt should have a baggy (Oby Wan-like) hood in the same color. Hood can be made with an inner zipper attachment to be made removable. The hood is not a must but Master Plo is seen several times with the hood on or hanging on his shoulders and back si the ability to attach or remove the hood would help.


Hood should have a pointy back and a 3 leveled “seam” in the upper frontal part.

4. Tabbard should be a dark chocolate color with a V shaped neck and chect BUT with no overlapping of the V opening. In fact NO overlapping pieces must be visible on the front nor back of the tabard’s torso and a single vertical seam is visible from the bottom of the V opening to the waist. Seam is lost under the Obi and belt.

A pair of “shoulderpads” come from under the tabard’s shoulders and cover the full length of the shoulders down to the side of where the biceps start. These shoulderpads are tight over the shirt’s sleeves.
Starting on the waist and right under the Obi and Belt the tabard turns into a knee length skirt with a triangular front and semi rounded back. 2 frontal tabard flaps run over the skirt and stop 2 inches lower than the skirt length.

the skirt’s back as an inverted V opening about 3 inches wide in it’s lower part and running up until half the back of the skirt length with a back flap of cloth in the same color of the skirt. It is adviced to keep this inner flap at least half the skirt’s lenth and at least 2 inches shorter than the outside of the skirt to allow for comfort movement of the legs.


5. Obi and belt are a light shade of brown. Almost kakhi in tones and they are NOT the same tone as boots. Be aware of that.
Belt does not sport food pellets nor boxes or pouches but use of these Items is not shunned from the character. If using these, however, use only 1 or 2 pouches and no more than 2 food pellets.

6. Boots should be leather and are a reddish hue of brown. Not too dark nor light. Boots should look weathered and used but not too distressed. Length is up until 2 or 3 inches before the knee.
Boots must be made in layers starting with a “pirate” flap over the body of the leg of the boot and this should be overlapping over the foot part of the boot. The nose of the boot should be round instead of square or ponty.

Ribbing must me molded on the leather in an extruded way (outwards) with a central ridge and 3 ribs coming out of it and running horizontally all around the boot’s body. Foot area must have a central ridge with 1 rib coming out of it and running vertically towards the sole.

No frontal outward side nor back zipper will be allowed. Only inner side of boot zipper will be permitted although no zipper nor seam is encouraged.

7. Costume MUST sport clone trooper arm armor (Hand plates, gauntlets and elbow plates) Armor should be molded after the Clone Wars TV series in white color. Weathering of these pieces is encouraged.

Reddish brown colored Crest must be painted on the gauntlets. Vinil Sticker can be applied if each piece is separated from the other on the design (No white sticker material uniting the brown ones)

Color or crest is the same as the Boots.

8. Lightsaber must be modeled after one of the 3 models that Master Plo Koon has used over his career as a Jedi Knight and Master, however color of the blade must be Blue without exception as this is the color he uses in the Clone Wars TV series. Hilt only prop is accepted but a full lights and sound FX lightsaber is encouraged. Reversed Maul styled hilt is highly recommended for accuracy.

Lightsaber must be hanged from the belt by a belt clip instead of a D-Ring system.



Optional:

Suggested, but not required:

1. Brown hooded robe. Obi Wan Kenobi “Kamino” styled. Knee length in dark chocolate color.




Costume Resources:


On the works… (resources will be added as I find them and use them for my build)
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont really have the spare cash lying around at the minute, but maybe in the future
thanks

spare money has gone into another costume i am making
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem man! let me know when you want them.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So... the Talons where a tad small for the Dobby hands so I re-did them and I think I got a better detail out of them this second time:











now I'm happy. I'll have the final resin ones during the weekend.
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General_Koon (Rick Vargas)
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok... the lightsaber toy came today.

now I know why toy lightsabers are not allowed. Crying or Very sad





However... the end cap looks good and it can be worked on. Tomorrow I´ll pay a visit to the hardware store and see if I can get a few aluminum pipes that fit one inside the other and try to come up with a valid representation of master plo´s saber... If it turns out to be good enough I might skip on franks saber hilt for a few more months so I can use the cash for C6.

The force FX removable blade is on it´s way now anyways to I might as well try to make my own Plo Hilt...

Wish me luck!

P.S.

Mas came in today but it was left in transit so I could ´t pick it up. Tomorrow is the day for it... I´m kinda nervous because my entire bet on this costume is based on the mask.

I hope it´s good enough. Neutral
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