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Jedi Master's Robe Tutorial, by SithariRog
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SithariRog (Roger Allen)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Jedi Master's Robe Tutorial, by SithariRog Reply with quote

The Jedi Master's Robe Tutorial

The following is a tutorial (with pictures) for fabrication of a Jedi Master's Robe, as seen worn by Obi-wan Kenobi in Revenge of the Sith. With slight modifications, this pattern can be used for any Jedi Master's robe (or Sith robe, for that matter). But, before I continue with the tutorial, I MUST thank a few people, whose input in the development of this pattern and tutorial was invaluable. From the Crazy Old Wizards forums I greatly appreciate the input, conversation and friendship of: Rade Larkin, Obi Dan Kenobi and Psab Keel.

The Material:

Well, that's the main problem with almost every costume we make, right? As soon as someone finds the "perfect" material, it disappears. This was equally true of the wool I used to make this robe. When I ordered the wool, there was 30 yards left; and within a few days, it was gone. The best advice I can tell you is when you find a material that might be right...order a swatch (or yard, if swatches are not available), and pray they don't run out of the material before you get to order it. And, for the love of Yoda, don't rely on internet images!

Regarding the material, most wool comes 58"-60" wide, perfect for a Jedi Robe. I'm 6'1" in my boots and weigh about 180 pounds and ended up using about 8.5 yards of the 10 yards I bought. If you're within 3 inches of my height or 20 pounds (above or below) of my weight, then you should be able to use the pattern pictured below, with only slight modifications of the length of the robe and sleeves. If your body size is outside these parameters, then you should consider modifying the pattern and running through the fabrication process with some cheap fabric or old sheets to make sure you get it right before cutting the expensive wool. All-in-all, I made two robes (first out of regular white sheets, then out of flannel sheets) before plunging into my wool.

The Tutorial:

After tons of research, I came up with the pattern pictured below. I certainly didn't invent this pattern all on my own, but rather looked at a lot of robe patterns discussed on various forums and then put them together with measurements for my personal robe. As stated earlier, I did a mock up with old sheets, tweeked the pattern, then made yet another robe out of brown flannel sheets...the latter of which was posted for review on COW. And now, I am happy to put the robe design in a form that others can use to duplicate for their own projects.

Two measurements are of paramount importance: (1) measure from the back of your neck (where your shirt collar rests) to the floor (wearing whatever boots you plan to use), and (2) measure from the side of your neck (again where your shirt collar rests) to the tip of your middle finger with your arm raised parallel to the floor. For the first measurement, add at least 4 inches to account for the hem (and a little extra for screw ups). For the second measurement, add 4-5 inches for the tuck (if you plan to have one) and add another 6 inches for the hem on the end of the sleeve.

The Pattern:


Here are some points to consider about this pattern:
THE ROBE:
-The pattern is drawn so that it should be laid on folded fabric where the fold is located at the "top" or along the shoulder and arm. This eliminates a shoulder seam.
-Note the difference in scale between the robe and hood patterns.
-I measured 64" from the back of my heck to the floor (with my boots on) and added 5" to arrive at 69". I knew this would be long and probably needed cutting before hemming.
-I measured 39" from the side of my neck to the tip of my middle finger (arm stretched and parallel to the floor) and added 6" for the tuck and another 4" for the hem...and added another 3" for screwing up to arrive at 52".
-The neck hole measures 4.5"' wide and 3" long.
-I established the arm pit area and the width of the bottom of the robe by doing the following:
a. I choose a length for the sleeves to be 24".
b. I developed an arc that was 69" long and swinging it to the "right" centering on the 0 (zero) point in the upper left corner of the pattern).
c. I drew a 19" square (shown in dotted red lines), measuring from the 0 (zero) point.
d. I drew a line starting 3" (to the right, or down the sleeve from the neck) through the bottom right intersection of the 19" square and intersecting the arc (this line from the shoulder to the arm pit is green).
e. I drew a line (again, in green) from the intersection of the 19" square to the bottom of the sleeve.
f. The intersection of the sleeve and side of the robe was rounded near the arm pit area.
g. The dotted green line drawn at the end of the sleeve notes a portion of the fabric that is to be removed so that there is no bunching of material when hemming the sleeve. As you will see, this step was accomplished at the end of robe fabrication.
-I added 3" to the midsection of the pattern (the red dotted lines extending to the left of the 0 (zero) point. This accomplished two things: (1) it gave me the ability to have a 1" seam allowance when sewing the right and left sides of the robe together and (2) it gave an area where I gathered the robe by 5" (in the middle of the back) so the robe would flow and drape better when finished. This also gave too much overlap on the front of the robe. I ended up cutting off 1" from both sides of the robe on the front and using the extra width of the robe on the front for the hem around the robe and hood.
-PLEASE understand that the "material" to the left of the 0 (zero) point (bordered by the dotted red lines) is included in what was cut out for the material. In other words, the width of the fabric at the neck and along the arm was 55" (and NOT 52"). The width of the neck hold at the top was 7.5" and NOT 4.5". Remember, the "extra" 6" on the back of the robe will be removed by (1) a 1" hem allowance and (2) gathering the back of the robe by 5". This will be shown later. The "excess" 6" of material on the front of the robe will be "eliminated" by cutting off 1" from either side and then folding another 1.5" for the hem around the front of the robe and hood. This will leave about an inch of overlap if you were to close the robe on the front.
THE HOOD:
-There are no pictures for the sewing of the hood since it should be straight forward.
-An arc was drawn for the back of the hood by making a rounded form based on a 12" square (see the dotted red line).
-The hood material was cut as directed in the pattern.
-A stitch was made for the hood by beginning at the neck and back of the hood and sewing up and around the arc, ending at the "top" where the 12" dotted red line ends. This seam was nearly 1" and tapering down to 0" at the "top" where the 12" dotted red line ends. This seam was finished as shown later in the tutorial.
-This design gives a "hidden" seam up the back of the hood, but not at the front of the hood that is draped over the top of the head (as clearly seen by reference pics of Obi-wan Kenobi's hooded robe).

Now...on to the tutorial!

Transfer the pattern to pattern paper and lay the pattern out on the folded fabric:


This pic shows the folded material (both sides and the hood) cut:


This shows the robe opened up and ready to begin the shoulder tucks:


I measured the length of my shoulder (measuring from the side of my neck to where a shirt normally drops off around my shoulder) to be approximately 6.5". On the "inside" of the robe, I laid a yard stick down and measured the width of the material from the edge of the center of the robe to the yard stick, which was 13.75". I made sure this was true for both sides of the yard stick.


Then, securing the yard stick in place (with my knees...yes, it was painful) I folded the sleeve up over the yard stick.


I wanted my tucks to be approximately 5" deep I to position the depth of the shoulder tuck near the neck line, so I made the appropriate measurement and placed a 15" ruler in place. The center of the ruler (the 7.5" mark) was placed in the center of the neck hole. Then I measured 7" on either side and placed pins to secure the location of the tuck.


The sleeve fabric was folded over this ruler and the actual tuck was pinned and sewed with a hand sewn slip stitch. The entire length of the tuck was 14".


Here's a youtube tutorial for the slip stitch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i20WGQRlnIA

This picture shows the tucks completed and both side of the fabric laid out ready to sew the back seam:


With right sides (or outsides) together and pinned, sew a 1" seam:


Press the raw seam (picture #1) open (picture #2) and cut off one side of the seam material (picture #3):


Fold the excess seam material over on itself and press (picture #1). Fold the folded excess seam material over again and press and pin in place (picture #2). Finish the seam with a hand sewn slip stitch (picture #3):


NOTE: Nearly all seams in this robe was finished in this way. This allows for a very professional finish with no thread showing for any seam except for the final hems along the bottom of the robe and around the front of the robe (including the hood)...as can be clearly seen in reference pics of Obi-wan Kenobi.

For gathering the neck of the robe:
The overall length of the neck measures 41". Remember there was an excess of 5" of material (3" from each side of the robe minus one inch for the seam joining the right and left sides). The neck needs to be shortened or gathered by 5" to make the overall length 36":


There are many ways to gather fabric. This picture shows how I gathered the 5" of material. I made sure each side from the midline was exactly even. A stitch was sewn to hold the gathered material in place:


The hood was prepared (as described earlier...and this is not pictured). The overall length of the neck of the hood measured 45", which needs to be gathered so that the final length is 36" (to match the length of the neck of the robe. The three pictures shows the gather method (identical to the way the robe neck was gathered):


With right sides (outsides) together, the hood was pinned to the robe and sewn:


Finishing the hood-to-robe interface by sewing on a collar.

There are several different ways to accomplish sewing a collar to the hood-robe interface (in order to hide the seam). I used the method, so elloquently drawn by IndianaJoyce and posted on the COW site. Since his drawing is better than mine, I'm using it here:


As far as how I actually did it...here's how (I think):
1. press the seam open and cut off the hood side of the seam. 2. pin a 3" wide piece of fabric on the robe side of the hood-robe seam. 3. Turn the piece of fabric "up" or towards the hood. Turn over 0.5" of the material (shown by the dotted yellow line) to create the finished edge. Then, sew this to the robe with a slip stitch.


Essentially, do the same thing to the robe side of the collar, shown in the next picture. This picture shows the edge of the hood where I did NOT sew the collar to the edge. The reason I did not sew the collar to the edge is that, when finishing the robe, the outer border of the robe needs to be hemmed. Some material needs to be removed so there is not an excess of material within the hem (not to mention the sewing machine would have difficulty sewing many layers of wool)...so some needs to be removed. I decided to now sew the edge to avoid having to remove part of the stitch. Again, the final stitch was a slip stitch sewn by hand:


For hemming the sleeves:
Folding the sleeve under and hemming, without cutting off some excess material, will result in a bunch of material within the sleeve hem that will be unsightly. I measured the amount of material to be removed (see yellow line) and cut it off. I reestablished the stitch by hand (not shown). The angle of the cut and how much material is to be cut off depends on how wide you're making your sleeve hem. It's considered proper for the sleeve hem on Obi-wan's robe to be approximately 5".


This picture shows the outside of the sleeve AFTER the excess material was removed and the stitch reestablished (by hand):


This picture shows the inside of the sleeve and how the material was folded under (about an inch), then under again (about 5") and pinned in place. The hem was hand sewn using the slip stitch:


Finally, the robe was hemmed along the bottom and on the front opening (including the hood) with the sewing machine. The hem was folded on itself by approximately 0.5" (dashed yellow line), then folded over on itself another inch (dotted yellow line) and finished with the machine. The inset picture shows the inside of the finished hem and at the bottom corner where the bottom and front sides meet:


And now for some pictures of the final product...all dressed in FULL Jedi!

Front view (hood up), arms stretched out:


Back view (hood up), arms stretch out:


Side view (hood up):


Two "action" shots in front of brick wall:


Action shot in back yard:


Final action shot in back yard:



I hope you enjoyed this Jedi Master's Robe Tutorial and I wish you luck on creating your own robe.

If you ever see me at a Sci-fi/Fantasy con or at a troop, please say "hello". I'd love to meet all of those who have used my tutorials to create their own unique Jedi costume!

/bow
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KrisAntilles (Amanda Burk)
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another post from one of my WIP threads that I thought might be helpful to add to the tutorials section.

I used SithariRog's awesome robe tutorial above to make my robe as well. Though obviously with different measurements since I'm smaller. So I thought this might be helpful information to add here for those similar in size.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My size: 5'6" and 130 lbs

Robe fabric: Hopsack Linen

The linen worked out really well, and it's definitely heavy (holy heavy and awkward to sew), so it does hang nice. I was a little worried it might be a little too "see through" because the weave on this linen is a little loose and slightly see through, but I washed and preshrunk the fabric before I cut into it, and the shrinkage tightened the weave up nicely.

It shrunk quite a bit though. My fabric started out 54" wide, but ended up about 48" wide. Which worked out fine for a women's robe, but for a men's robe, you'd probably want to try to find a wider linen fabric. I also had a 10 yard long piece of fabric, and it definitely shrunk length wise too, because when I was all done, I only had about 3/4 of a yard left over. So definitely wash, preshrink, and buy extra and/or extra wide with the linen! (Ok, I do have a bad habit of drying most fabrics on high to make sure they shrink as much as possible, so I don't have to worry too much about things shrinking after I've made them.....)

I followed SithariRog's Tutorial above to draft my pattern with some adjustments to scale it down to my size.

Below are the measurements I used to draft my pattern following SithariRog's Tutorial.

(SithariRog, I hope it's ok, but I borrowed your awesome drawing.....seemed like the easiest way to explain the measurements I used!)


A couple of things I did different from the tutorial....

*I made my shoulder tucks 4 3/4" instead of 5", only because I'm smaller.

*For the back and side seams of the robe and the hood seam, I used french seams instead, so I still had a nice finished look to the seams on the inside of the robe, and saved myself some hand sewing. Also gave me a nice seam to sew my lightsaber blade pockets onto inside the robe.

*I used machine hidden hems to hem the hood, robe front and bottom, and sleeve bottoms.

*I probably could have gotten away with only adding an extra inch or so to the front and back of the two halves of the robe instead of the 3 inches, I had to gather it quite a bit in the back to bring the neck hole back small enough for it to sit on my shoulders right/comfortably. Not that big of a deal though, just means my robe is a little extra full. On the front side I hemmed the front opening and hood, thought it seemed a little long still, and actually rolled it under a second time and hemmed it, and that worked better.

An excellent and easy to follow tutorial that worked like a charm! I'm very happy with how my robe turned out! Thank you for this excellent tutorial!

Robe submission pictures here.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Update:

One problem I ran into when I made my brown robe above, was that when I went to hem the bottom of my robe, I had just barely enough fabric at the side seams to squeeze out a 1 inch hem, but at the front and back I had way too much fabric and had to cut several inches off before I could hem the bottom of the robe.

So for my second robe, I changed the pattern a little bit at the bottom to try to end up with a more even result. I used all the same measurements I used above for my brown robe, and drew the arc at the bottom of the robe just like I did above. But then I extended my side seam line a few inches, and drew a second arc. Then hand sketched them together. You'll see what I mean in the picture below, you can see my original arc drawn on the pattern paper, then you can see where I started my second arc, and how I connected them before cutting out the pattern.



This resulted in a much more even amount of fabric to hem all the way around the bottom of of my robe. I only had to trim a little bit here and there and could make the wider hem that I wanted!

I also changed the sleeves a little bit on this robe too, making them a little wider, and angling the opening of the sleeve a little bit to match the way I made the sleeves of my tunic, so the robe and tunic sleeves would hang the same way, instead of having the sleeve opening of the robe straight up and down like I did with my brown robe and tunic sleeves above.

Robe submission pictures here



Another handy tidbit I added to both of my robes (thank you SithariRog for the idea) was to sew a narrow hidden sleeve into both side seams on the inside of both of my robes. So when I want to wear my lightsaber hilt on my belt, I have a handy place to hide the blade and carry it with me. And both robes are so full, you really can't tell it's there.


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Last edited by KrisAntilles (Amanda Burk) on Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:54 pm; edited 7 times in total
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Jaryn Xur (John Shrout)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would love to use this tutorial to make my robe from but all of Rog's photos are gone? Sad
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SithariRog (Roger Allen)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wolfman wrote:
I would love to use this tutorial to make my robe from but all of Rog's photos are gone? Sad


Well...not really. They're still there, but the band width for photobucket has been exceeded for this month. It should reset in a couple of days (as in two days). I'm considering getting "unlimited" band width, but it will cost me $30/year. I'll probalby do it, becasue...LOTS of folks use these tutorials.

Just wait another couple of days and the pics should reappear Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*right click* on the image, "open in new tab" and you're good to go! Ben
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice! Excellent craftmanship! Cool
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome tutorial!
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been looking for a quality tutorial for a while now and the fact that this one includes step by steps and easy to follow directions, I have already bought fabric and will start working on mine tonight. Thankfully I am 6'5" so I won't have to make too many measurement changes from the original. Thanks for posting this. Wish me luck!
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anidem wrote:
I have been looking for a quality tutorial for a while now and the fact that this one includes step by steps and easy to follow directions, I have already bought fabric and will start working on mine tonight. Thankfully I am 6'5" so I won't have to make too many measurement changes from the original. Thanks for posting this. Wish me luck!


haha...GOOD LUCK!

And if you need anything, just give a yell Wink
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Anidem ()



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the only thing I am thinking about changing is the closing overlap for when I want to close the robe in windy or rainy times. Kinda like Obi Won during his visit to Kamino.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alithough this pattern can be used to develop almost any Jedi robe, this pattern was specifically developed as as OWK robe. Fir me this robe closes quite nicely Wink

Anidem wrote:
Well, the only thing I am thinking about changing is the closing overlap for when I want to close the robe in windy or rainy times. Kinda like Obi Won during his visit to Kamino.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is excellent, thank you. Something I hope to tackle once I have got to grips with my sewing machine. Mid/long-term project for the new year.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I must have missed this thread the first time.
This is nearly identical to my own, with a few minor exceptions.
(anakin style double lined hood, instead of obiwan style hemmed hood).

construction-wise, the only thing I really did differently was the collar to hide the robe-hood seam.
as the tutorial suggests, there are many ways of accomplishing this.

next time I will try this method.
thanks.
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Anidem ()



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SithariRog wrote:
Alithough this pattern can be used to develop almost any Jedi robe, this pattern was specifically developed as as OWK robe. Fir me this robe closes quite nicely Wink

Anidem wrote:
Well, the only thing I am thinking about changing is the closing overlap for when I want to close the robe in windy or rainy times. Kinda like Obi Won during his visit to Kamino.


Well, It was a lot of hard work and considering that I have never used a sewing machine to do anything of this size, I think I did fairly well. I will be taking pictures soon and I will post them us here. Lots of lessons learned with this project.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is just brilliant and soooo helpful!
the only problem for me is to convert it all into mm, cm, kg etc. The metric system. Smile

When I do my robe, I will follow this tutorial and at the same time I will take photos and post a new tutorial based on this one, but followed my own adventure in sewing, made for all metric system countries so it will be easier for them as well.

First step for me is to buy sheets. Smile

Thanks again for a really nice step by step tutorial!
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