About Us Members Unit Listing Events Costuming Resources Forum Contact Us Trading Cards
 

Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=3ed721c845797199e895c2de1cad4f37Medals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

National Fiber Technology Hair/ Fur

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Fringe -> Fringe Tutorials
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 17 Feb 2007
Posts: 5809

Medals: 5 (View more...)
Rebels 4 Japan (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:02 am    Post subject: National Fiber Technology Hair/ Fur Reply with quote

National Fiber Technology
www.nftech.com


What is National Fiber Technology?
NFT has been around for over 30 years, and has been one of the leading companies for the film industry when it comes to synthetic and natural hairs and furs. The hair and fur they sell is an extremely high quality product that if taken care of will last your costuming needs for a very long time.


NFT and Star Wars
The Fur/ hair used to make the Wookiees and Chewbacca in ROTS was product from NFT. There was a time when the color codes or “Hair ID” had a classic George Lucas Gag order on it for some reason. Fortunately I was able to get in under the wire before that could occur, thus preserving the information. Matt P. has contacted Steve Sandsweet and confirmed that we no longer have to keep hush-hush on the Hair color information for the re-creation of Chewbacca’s hair color used in the movies. With that said, I will give as much information as I can to help anyone who is willing or wanting to go this route for the Chewbacca costume.

Unlike most Chewbacca costumes and NFT Chewbacca is literally a walking carpet! Hair comes on a 60 in roll (bolt) of fabric for each color. This is a good and bad thing. You save a ton of time avoiding the latch hook method, however you end up with other fun issue I will explain later.

Fabric comes on a roll:


Backside Grey:


Backside Grey 2:




What colors do you need to order?
The hair color that was used for the movie is listed below:

Order# AJ 2872 Brown, 15" sliver Chewbacca…. This is the golden Brown with Silver mixed in. There are a variety of different shades of browns and Grays for this, and the code will get you the correct blend. Length is 8-9 inches or so.


Order# AJ 2873 Grey, 15" sliver Chewbacca… This is the Gray blend that you find on his shoulders/ back and legs in key positions. There are a variety of different shades and this code will get you the correct blend. Length is 8-9 inches or so.



Ordering Hair/ Fur from NFT

This can be ordered by the square foot or by the pound! When ordering by the pound you will receive all the hair loose and not attached to a mesh fabric. Unlike beauty salon hair this will be all attached from 1 run off the Hair loom with Yak hair mixed in. Ordering by the pound is ideal for hair punching the mask! When ordering by square foot or "carpet", you must remember that there is a minimum order requirement of 8sq feet… minimum. That does not include the loom set up fees… which can vary per order. I say this because if you do not order enough you will not be able to call them up and get 2 more yards… you will be stuck getting at least 8… so plan ahead of time!


How much does the Fur/ Hair cost?

This is the number one issue with the product… it’s not cheap! If you go to NFT’s Web site you will find… nothing is really cheap. This fur is actually one of their high end products… so it can be even more expensive… so save your money. Normal hair can cost anywhere from 37$-55$ a square foot. The Chewbacca blend is not a normal blend by any means. It’s a mixture of synthetic hair and Yak hair… the Yak hair adds a 30% charge to the base cost of their custom blend hair. This can easily bring the cost of the hair well over 60$ a sq ft. There is also a loom charge that you will have to set up for each color you want. I believe the loom cost is around 200$. So depending on how much Fur you get will depend on how much it will cost. So depending on how much you order you looking at around 3,000$ in carpet alone… another 150-300$ in loose hair. SO to be safe, around 3,500$ in fur alone.


How much hair will I need?

This will depend on your size of course, but remember to get an extra yard at least for future repairs… remember the minimum you can order is 8sq ft. So best to be safe than sorry. I would recommend anyone who is serious about doing this costume with this fur to build your suit with a muslin pattern first… so you know exactly how much you need! I almost did not have enough and I had two of the finest seamstresses stressed out to no ends trying to make it work.




I had 25 sq ft of the: AJ 2872 Brown, 15" sliver Chewbacca
I had 15 sq ft of the: AJ 2873 Grey, 15" sliver Chewbacca

I ordered 1 pound of loose hair for each color

Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased 27sq ft of the brown, and 17sq ft. of the Grey… along with the loose hair by the pound.

About the pattern and attaching the fur


What is a muslin pattern?

Muslin patterns are patterns that are drafted out of cheaper fabrics to reserve the “good” fabric while you get all parts of the costume to fit correctly.


Important note on muslins patterns!!!!!
When making your muslin remember you must take in consideration the direction of the fur when you build your muslin. Unlike Latch hooking your fur is already attached to the mesh and you will be unable to change the direction the fur will lay with this fabric. So when you are trying to figure out how much fur you need you have to keep the direction of the fur in mind, or you will end up short once you cut out your fur… with your pre-made muslin pattern. Further down in this thread I discus fur alignment for your pattern… this will effect your muslin!

Once you have your pattern figured out… I recommend you write on each piece pattern what color its suppose to be, and what the piece is… it can get confusing. Once you have your pattern together out of the muslin and have identified all the colors on the pattern pieces. I would highly recommend putting arrows on each and every pattern piece for fur direction! If you do not you will regret it later and waste valuable fur and money!


Cutting the fur
http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/sewingfur.htm

Cutting the fur is not like anything I have ever done before… you cannot just cut the fur, you need to plan ahead! Laying the fur face down on a flat surface.. the floor works well! Most tables are just not big enough. You will need to keep in mind the fur direction at all times! Place your pattern pieces on the fur and with a fabric pencil draw out each pattern piece before you cut anything out! With direction issues, you may need to move pattern pieces around till you find the right puzzle to get all your pattern pieces in place with the fur in the right direction! Once you have everything drawn out on the backside of the carpet of fur… then you can cut out the fur.

Cutting the fur needs to be done with extreme care! You cannot use long cut for you will cut the fur not just the mesh which holds the fur. Instead you MUST make small cuts ridding the edge of the mesh and avoiding the fur attached to the mesh… the best you can!


Sewing the fur

It’s important … to NOT use a surger when sewing NFT fur. NFT fur has glues in very small quantities that help hold the fur to the mesh fabric. Surger needles are so fast they actually rub up against the mesh creating friction. Friction creates heat, which breaks down the glues while you surge it. The glues then attach to the surger needles creating a razor blade effect to the mesh fabric... cutting the fabric instead of a clean penetration. It may not happen over time, but you will after a few troops start to notice tiny holes form (later large holes) at the surged seam. I learned this the hard way and actually contacted NFT to find out what was going on. They explained the whole thing to me as I am explaining it to you. The recommendation is to NOT surge the fur, but to use a wide Zig-Zag stitch… something all standard machines should have!

Try to comb the fur away from the seam your going to stitch… there is no need to trim fur away from the seam, or to have a naked seam allowance. Simply align the piece you want to sew together, Fur facing Fur, pin them together after combing fur away from seam to be sewn… and use a zig zag stitch to complete the process.
Once you have sewn a few pieces together in this manner… you can use a brush on the fur side to gently pull any trapped hairs out of the zig-zag stitch… a pick can be used for this as well.


Pattern alignment with NFT Fur

Pattern alignment is not much different than latch hooting method. If you want a certain color to show at a desired location you must figure how far the stitch must start above a color change area. I would recommend practicing this before you draw you muslin out by laying the two colors of fur over each other and notice how far away the color change is to the would be seam. I think mine is around 4-5 inches before the color blends into the next color. Keep in mind this will also depend on the vertical and horizontal color changes in your pattern. These are things you must consider before you finish your muslin. Not after you cut the fur… for it would be too late!

Once your sewing of your suit is complete you will find that NFT fur is extremely durable and will last a very long time if you take care of it! NFT sells a variety of shampoos and conditioners to help make your suit last for as long as you want!


Hair Punching NFT hair

Hair punching NFT is very much like hair punching synthetic hair… even with the yak hair, there is little to no difference.




I am sure I missed a few things, but it’s a start. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM. I will try to do what I can to answer them.

I hope this helped…


Bob Kohn
_________________
RL Han Solo Archive and information
Han Archive via Photbucket
My Holster


Last edited by SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn) on Tue Jun 07, 2011 3:36 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
GotWookiee (Matt Pfingsten)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 30 Mar 2001
Posts: 3803
Location: Nashville, TN, USA
Medals: 1 (View more...)
Rebel Legion Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote




_________________
Chewbacca Costuming Resources | Chewbacca Costume Guide (under construction)
Matt Pfingsten - Film & Video Editor
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Dougie Fett ()



Joined: 25 Nov 2009
Posts: 243

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very informative, thanks for taking the time to put this together!

Is there any info regarding the colours used for Tarfful?
_________________
www.facebook.com/WookieeBuilders
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 17 Feb 2007
Posts: 5809

Medals: 5 (View more...)
Colorado Wildfires 2012 Relief Award (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never done the homework for Tarfful... I could ask though.
_________________
RL Han Solo Archive and information
Han Archive via Photbucket
My Holster
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Dougie Fett ()



Joined: 25 Nov 2009
Posts: 243

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoloYT1300 wrote:
I have never done the homework for Tarfful... I could ask though.


Would be great if you could?
_________________
www.facebook.com/WookieeBuilders
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Dougie Fett ()



Joined: 25 Nov 2009
Posts: 243

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also do you know what individual colour codes are used in the Chewie blends, and how many?
_________________
www.facebook.com/WookieeBuilders
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 17 Feb 2007
Posts: 5809

Medals: 5 (View more...)
Colorado Wildfires 2012 Relief Award (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do not sell it seperatley the blend is what the code is. We are lucky to have that... for a while LFL had a gag order on it. It was anoying, because I do not think very many people had it besides me. So when Matt got permission from LFL to release the color ID info, that is when I made the post roughly.

Bob
_________________
RL Han Solo Archive and information
Han Archive via Photbucket
My Holster
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Fringe -> Fringe Tutorials All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2014 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group