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Waldo's C 3PO Build
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edgejedi (Jase Fox)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Surprised
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Jeff are you going to let us put greeen slime on you when you stand next to Boushh and Chewie?
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Princess Sandy ()
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is great Jeff!
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dewka wrote:
So Jeff are you going to let us put greeen slime on you when you stand next to Boushh and Chewie?


Yes, if you build a Jaba.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waldo Kent wrote:
Dewka wrote:
So Jeff are you going to let us put greeen slime on you when you stand next to Boushh and Chewie?


Yes, if you build a Jaba.


Mr. Green
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Build me a temple and ill build you a Jabba!
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked

Fantastic!

Looking good Very Happy
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not make the progress I was hoping to this weekend however I did solve one problem and managed to at least get started on the shorts.

They Brass eyes I received from MC are awesome. When installed in the helmet, the edges on the rear of each eye dug into my eyesockets.
One solution was to remove the light panels and bulbs and grind the edges down. They come out very easy.




The front of the helmet at the top uses an electrical connector that the head antenna goes through and is screwed into the back of the helmet.

By adding a few washers behind the connector, it provides a llttle more space inside the helmet. Problem solved.

As for the shorts I have found no clear example of how one is supposed to put these together. So we'll just have to wing it. First I would suggest you have your legs completed first before you start cutting and fitting your shorts. Remember they must fit inside the thighs as well as your waist.

The ABS shorts are also from MonCal. The advantage is the ABS allows for a liitle more flex than the fiberglass shorts. The dissadvantege is the sharp defintions and details are lost. For a rough trim I used a dremmel and cleaned up the edges with a sanding block.


For the very top I left as much as I could and still "barely" fit into the shorts. I will use an iron and round these edges later. That will give us more room around the waist.

Starting at the top I lined the two halves together, edge on edge. I used c-clamps then duct tape. At the bottom I overlaped the front half over the back half. At the bottom for the OUTER SEAM ONLY I measured one inch edge to edge, c-clamped and taped it up. (The top edges are together and the bottom overlap)

Once together I taped up the seams inside and out just for fitting. My waist is 30 and it was a tight fit to get on once I past my hips. All seamed well once I got the legs on. The shorts come with extra long legs and we we cut them shorter once I'm sure they are working well. One thing I noticed is it is a tight fit and getting the bunjee cords connected was pretty rough. Iam rethinking the way I will use the bujee cords now.


Note the unattached sections near the crotch. I most likely will leave these loose. They are quite thin because of the vacuform process and I will reinforce them later. But when the legs are worn these sections overlap and allow the legs of the shorts to taper and spread a bit.

That's it for now!
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote




To show an example using Milliput we are going to fix the hole that was caused by sanding down the bump under the lower lip.


I am using Milliput Superfine White. It is a 2 part epoxy putty used for scupting. It runs about $14 at Hobby Lobby or most Hobby shops. For this project I have been using just a liitle bit at a time. I cut about a 1/4 inch off of each roll, mix it in my fingers for about 6 minutes and adding water to my finger tips to keep from sticking. Working time is about an hour. (Read Instructions Carefully)


Rolling a small portion in a tube, place it inside the helmet under the lower lip. Wet a spatula and smash down the edge. Work the putty into the hole and smooth it out on the front of the helmet. Use a wet sponge to smooth it down.



Now lets replace the roof of the mouth lost due to making the opening a little bigger. Let the Milliput set over night and then sand. To learn more about Milliput visit the website http://milliput.com/home.htm
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I felt that the detail of the rear of the helmet was just as poor as the front. The "pie shaped" wedges molded into the helmet were had very soft edges and just did not look good so I grinded them down and removed them.



I cut out a 3 inch circle from a sheet of styrene and glued the resin piece in place. I then cut and shaped the wedges from "door shims". You could use a paint stick as well. Glue these in place.



Glue to the back of the head.



Using milliput, fill in the areas that are needed. and soften the edges.



It is hard to see any imperfections so I lightly painted the face with primer. Using a light at an angle you can see where to fill and sand.
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the Milliput cured and sanded, it was time to get the back of the head back into shape.



Here are the steps I took to get to this point:
1) Filled with milliput and sand using 60 and 220 grit sponges.
2) Before priming I chose to seal the wood wedges with epoxy thinned with some alcohol, let it dry and sanded lightly with 320 grit. 3) Filled with glazing putty and sanded with 220 and 320 grit sponges
4) Primed back of helmet, sanded with 320 grit then filled where need with glazing putty again.
5) Sanded glazing putty and reprime.

Basically repeat the process until you are happy with it. I will prime and sand one more time and go with a higher grit. Some of the hard to get places can be reached better with folded sand paper. Try not to glaze those hard to reach places if you can help it. It's hard to sand small spaces in the disk.

ONE thing I did not want to do was scribe into the plastic for fear I would mess it up. The plastic helmet is fairly thin. Originally I glued a piece of wood for the upper lip. I felt it was again too high. I removed it and took my chance on creating it with Milliput and flushed it up to the upper mouth. I let it dry then sanded.



The space between the upper lip and nose was then roughed up with sandpaper. A thin layer of Milliput was used then once smoothed I used a sculpting tool to create the scribing line. Pushing the tool up against the edge of the first piece proved to make a pretty straight line. Once dry, I'll sand and clean it up.
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IN SHORT.....once I got the shorts taped up and test fitted them. I ran a pencil line on the outside of the shorts as well as the inside. This will act as a guide for glueing.

Rough up the areas you are gluing with sand paper on both sides. I used ABS glue on both sides and then clamped the two halves using two 1x2s and C-clamps.


I recommend you have someone to assist you with this. You must work fast because the glue cures quickly. It's also easier to do one side at a time.


I added a block of wood to the recessed section of the waist and glued it in place using Gorrila Glue.



I had a difficult time lining this side up. It just did not match so I added a piece of sheet plastic to hold the edges in place.



Here's a look at the outside of the shorts which I plan on fiberglassing later.



Using a broomstick and a sheet of wax paper to prevent sticking, let your shorts ride the broom.



Because of the depth of the crotch thinning of the plastic in that area happens when the shorts are vacuformed. Sign plastic may be used on the inside of the leg but the crotch needs reinforcing as well. So I'll add to strips of fiberglass cloth. The photo shows that I added 2 sticks to spread the inside of the legs apart. This will help you work easier. You can also see by the photo where the plastic is thin.



I used 2 strips of fibergass just to thicken up the crotch area and inside legs. Once dry I'll sand, trim and add bondo to make it smoother.
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TrooperPX (David Ramsay)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is looking great! I'm working on a static display and this helps alot. Can't wait to see you in the whole thing... Cool
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


As for the helmet, I sprayed my last coat of primer and now to wet sand. the extra work was worth it.

I'm pretty happy with the results of the mouth as well. So the helmet is pretty much done.



With a heat gun I carefully rounded off the top edge of the shorts using my hand wearing gloves of course. The trick is to heat up a small section for about 5 seconds, test to see if it moves, if not give it another 5 secs until the plastic starts to soften up. Hold it in place until it cools or spray it with some water. Do small sections untill your finished. You can also use a iron for heating up MonoKote on RC airplanes. Use a sock.


Here is the result.


YOU DON"T HAVE TO DO THIS-Using a cutting wheel, I chose to cut the back panel out, so that I can install electronics and someone can access them when the suit is worn. It will be re-attached using earth magnets.



Sand the edges on the cuts and smooth. Using sign material or sheet plastic glue the plastic to the edge of the opening. We will later cut an opening and create an inside edge. Be back later with more.
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Waldo Kent (Jeff Kent)



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have not cleaned up the edges on your cuts do it now using a sanding block. Trace and cut out some sign material for the door. The more rigid the plastic is the better. Lay the cut out sheet of plastic on top of the plastic mounted on the opening. Then place the back (door) on top of the plastic sheet you just laid down. Look at the edges on the door to be sure they are laying flush with the plastic. If not, don't worry you can fill in the gaps with bondo later. The important thing is to make sure that the two sheets of plastic are flush together. Becuase I followed the edge for the cut the surface is a bit curved. Before you glue the two together, you need to SAND THE INSIDE EDGE OF DOOR. You will need to reinforce the inside corners with glue or fiber glass later and it will be hard to sand the primer off once the plastic is glued to the door. Dab some 5 minute epoxy on the edge of the door and lay it on the plastic and line up the edges. Lay those two glued peices on the back. Besure the two sheets of plastic are flush.



Once the glue is dry you can fill and sand the edges. This photo shows where I used body filler to fill the gaps.



Lay the back door on the back and line it up back to the postion it was before you cut it. Trace the edges of the door onto the back using a thin Sharpie. From this line you need to measure a 1/2 inch inward and draw a new line parallel to the one you just traced. You may consider 3/4 of an inch if you choose. this will be the line you will cut. Draw a line a 1/2 inch fron the edge on the back door as well. I used a drum sanding wheel on a Dremel to cut mine.


Door and opening now have new rims.


Sand the inside of the opening and remove the primer several inches from the edge. You should have done this with the door in the earlier step. Lay fiberglass where the two peices meet to reinforce the opening. I used two layers. Sand and clean the edges. When I get them I will drill holes in each corner and glue in earth magnets.
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