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TB312's Jawa Tutorial

 
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Wolfie (Crystal Bass)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:29 pm    Post subject: TB312's Jawa Tutorial Reply with quote

TB312's Jawa Tutorial

Build a Prop Jawa as well as the costume!!

http://www.angelfire.com/il2/TB312/Jawa/welcome.html

Quote:

So you want to have a grubby clothed scavenger to call your own? Well, you've come to the right place.
This tutorial will help you to make a great replica of your own Jawa for $100-$120.

So let's get started.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Materials you will need:
3 yards of brown material, 60" wide. I used (nutmeg color) cotton duck cloth ($4-$7/yard).
1/3 yard of black wool. This is for the face covering. ($3)
1 pair of Kid's brown jerseygarden gloves. I got these at Ace Hardware, but most any hardware store should at least be able to order them. If not, you could search the web. Go to the "Hands" page to see a pic of the gloves.($1.50)
2- Small "Great Neck" flashlights (like mini-maglites). I picked these up at Autozone. ($3 ea.)
2- Amber colored lenses. I used small lisence plate reflectors I found at Ace Hardware. ($1 ea.)
1- 6" Styrofoam sphere. Any craft store should carry these. ($2)
1- 10' section of 1/2" plastic conduit. ($1.50)
1/2" PVC fittings: (1) 4-way, (3) 3-way, (Cool 90 deg., (2) 45 deg. ($4).
4' of sturdy, yet bendable) metal wire. ($?)
Black duct tape (20 yd roll). ($4)
4 sq. feet of 1" foam. This is for giving the mannequin "bulk".
Spray Paint: Black, Dk. Brown, Almond. ($6-$10)
Leather belt (30-44 inches). ($7-$10)
Leather ammo pouches. These may be difficult to find, but I purchased mine (labeled as "Turkish Ammo Pouches") from sportsmansguide.com . Go to the "Search All Catalogs" page. The Item number is AX0M - 43496. ($5)
British 1903 Pattern 5-Pocket Leather Bandolier. Available from International Military Antiques. ($40)
Once you have acquired these, you are ready to begin bringing your Jawa to life.

MANNEQUIN:

Helpful Hints:
- When you buy your parts, you will save money if you
go to a mega-hardware store like Menards, Home Depot, etc.

- Whenever cutting anything, ALWAYS use eye protection. ALWAYS.


Using a hacksaw, or other appropriate tool,
cut the 1/2 plastic conduit into the following lengths:

(2)- 2.5" [hips]
(2)- 3" [hindfoot]
(3)- 4" [neck and forefoot]
(2)- 5" [shoulders]
(4)- 6" [upper and lower arms]
(2)- 6.75" [toe and heel]
(1)- 11" [torso]
(2)- 15" [legs]

Attach pieces as in the picture below.



Once this is complete, cut a section of foam 8"x24" and wrap it around the "Spine". You can secure it with the Duct Tape.

Next, cut another section of foam 12"x24". In the center, cut a hole through which you will place the "Neck".

Make a Duct Tape "Belt to shape the waist area.

The finished mannequin should look like this:



HANDS

To make the hands you will need:
- Wire
- Foam
- duct tape
- brown jersey garden gloves

Step One: Shaping the Wire
Using a glove for size reference, shape the wire as pictured here:
(notice that the wire is folded back below the wrist to provide some stability when you insert it into the forearm (PVC)).



the wire together at the wrist with a small piece of duct tape by winding it around the wire.

Step Two: Adding the Foam
Cut out appropriately sized pieces of foam for the palm of the hand and the fingers.

Secure the foam to the wire using narrow strips of the duct tape.
You may wish to secure it more completely, but this amount of tape should be sufficient.



Step Three: Attaching the Hand to the Forearm
Place the wrist portion into the PVC forearm and secure with duct tape.
-1 strip from the palm down the wrist.
-1 strip from the back of the hand down the wrist.
-1 strip around the whole wrist to secure the other tape.


Step Four: Securing the Glove



Carefully place the glove over the hand and secure it to the PVC forearm with the Black Duct Tape.

You will need:
-2 Flashlights

-Amber Lenses or Reflectors

Step One: Preparing the Flashlight
-If applicaple, remove the top portion of the flashlight by unscrewing it.

Next, remove the clear lens. Cut it, break it, don't worry, you won't need it. Just be sure not to break the reflector inside.
Step Two: Preparing the Amber Lens

-Carefully cut away the metal jacket. Do not crack or break the reflector.



-After you have removed the amber reflector from the metal jacket, sand down the bottom ridge until you can fit the reflector into the flashlight. It should fit snugly so you won't need any glue. Don't force it in too hard or it may crack. If it doesn't fit, just sand it down a little more until it does fit.
-Reattach the top portion to the flashlight body.

(To make a costume you will need to use a hard hat liner or something else to attach the reflectors and wire lights to them)

HEAD

You will need:
- Your 2 completed "Eyes" (flashlights).
- 6" Styrofoam Sphere

- Black Duct Tape

- 15"x20" Piece of black wool fabric

- 3/8" Drill Bit and Drill

- Hacksaw


Step one: Preparing the Head
Remove the plastic wrapper from the styrofoam shere.

Using the hacksaw, shave off one side of the sphere. Do not cut in half. You want to cut off about 1/4 of it to give you a nice flat face.

About 2/3 the distance down from the top of the face, mark off where you will drill holes for the "Eyes".

Carefully drill STRAIGHT through to the back of the head. you will be putting the flashlights through these "tunnels". so make them just barely wide enough to fit the body of the flashlight through.

Insert the two flashlights so the back end sticks through the back of the sphere.

Last, insert the 4" PVC "Neck" piece into the bottom of the sphere.


Step Two: Finishing the head.
Cover the sphere with black duct tape. Be sure to secure the "Neck" firmly with the duct tape.

Place the wool fabric over the face.

Carefully cut slits for the eyes and apply the fabric, sucuring it in the back with one piece of duct tape.

The finished product should look like this (but with the black fabric):



CLOAK

You will need:

-3 Yards of fabric

-Scissors

-Sewing machine and thread.

-Utility Knife

- HOT GLUE gun and hi-temp fabric glue sticks.

-Pattern for hooded cloak (optional)



Step One: Cutting the Pieces
If you do not know anything about sewing, ASK someone who does. I had to consult, you may or may not need to.

Here is a rough drawing of the forms I used. If this does not help, then I suggest you pick up a pattern for a hooded cloak at the fabric store. They don't usually cost more than $10. And the pattern may even allow you to make a wearable cloak! Anyway, for what it's worth...



The colored lines indicate where you will need to sew. I tried to match them up. Again, your best bet is to get a pattern.

The thin black lines are to be left unhemmed!


Step Two: Sewing the Cloak
First, if you don't know anyone with a sewing machine, don't know how to sew yourself, and don't want to pay someone to do it, then you can always HOT GLUE the cloak together. This can get messy, and will not hold up too well in the long term. I also suggest weathering the material first if you are going to go the HOT GLUE way. One last tip: Use High temperature fabric glue.

Now, if you do have access to a sewing machine and/or sewing person, they will know how to do all this stuff. Just bring reference pics for them to work from.

The first thing to be sewed is the main cloak piece. As the red lines above indicate, sew (a) and (b) together.

Next, fold the hood (c) along the fold line. Seam the back of the hood (the green line) and a short "dart" up the front (the purple lines).

The final sewing is the trickiest. You need to sew the hood to the main cloak. Consult your resident sewing professional for this step. Sorry, I'm not a pro, so I can't explain it well enough.


Step Three: Primary Weathering
Once you have finished with the sewing, get out your razor blade!

Cut like a banshee making short slashes at random over the whole cloak. The more "worn" you want your Jawa, the more cuts you will make.

Fringe the edges along the bottom of the cloak. Vary the length from between 2" and 6".

After your slashfest, toss the cloak into the washing machine (alone) without detergent. Then dry and press (if desired).


Step Four: Wiring the Hood
BE SURE TO DO STEP THREE BEFORE THIS STEP!!! If not, you will get glue all over the inside of your dryer (it's hot in there!) or else you will not be able to do the initial weathering.

For this step you will need to use a length of the steel wire to line the front edge of the hood.

Measure off how long you will need to make it, and cut your piece of wire.

Then HOTGLUE the wire (along the red line below) by folding the fabric over it.

BE SURE YOU ARE FOLDING THE FABRIC ON THE INSIDE OF THE HOOD!


WEATHERING:

You will need:
-Spray paint (Black, Brown, Almond)


For Primary Weathering, see the CLOAK page, STEP THREE.

Apply paint in this order:
1- Black. Apply sparingly to areas that would get dirtiest (foot area, cuffs, ets.)

2- Brown. Apply more liberally, yet unevenly.

3- Almond. Apply lightly (hold can at a distance) more evenly to give a sand-worn effect.

The finished effect should look something like this:



Accessories:

Accessories include the belt, ammo pouches, and the bandolier.

You could also make your own Jawa blaster, but I cannot help with that. Sorry.

For the belt and ammo pouches, you may simply use any wide leather belt (length 30-44 inches).

Slide the belt through the loops on the back of the ammo pouches. I used two pouches (one on the front, one on the back).

Here is a picture of the belt, pouches and bandolier.



Assembly:

To assemble your Jawa, follow these steps.
One: Remove the arms and the head/neck from the mannequin.

Two: Put the cloak on.

Three: Put on the Ammo Packs and Belt.

Four: Put on the Bandolier

Five: Reattach the arms and head/neck, tucking the black wool facemask under the cloak.

Six: Pose the mannequin and enjoy! You did it!

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