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Padme Episode II travel/refugee gown
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks fantastic! Congrats on getting it all done! I know you put epic work into all parts of this, but the most spectacular piece is still the headpiece itself. Amazing work.
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Padme of Hidden Lake ()
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful!
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GentleBant ()
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gorgeous! Smile
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely stunning! Well done. Mr. Green
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RebelSenator (Raychel Enck)
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naergi,
You look gorgeous and represent this costume exceptionally well. You're right that the lighting for the photos was PERFECT! Wow! They turned out so great.
Thank you so much for sharing your tips, progress shots, etc.
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Ladyghost4459 (Denise Cowles)



Joined: 07 Aug 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speechless. First off, the costume came out gorgeous. You look radiant and I am so in love with the headpiece and the fabrics. Well done Madame...well done indeed.
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonderful job! Easy approval for sure! Nice to see someone finally do this costume, and so perfectly. The headdress is to die for Smile
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am REALLY touched by the many nice comments I got on this costume. Thank you all so much!
I also apologize for not posting back earlier. I was pretty exhausted for two days from the 'hand sewing marathon' on this dress (guess what? Late on Saturday my spare bobbin case arrived. Grrr!).

By the way, did anyone 'find' the trick I used to "extend" my just two yards of cloak fabric so the cloak looks more full? It's really an awful trick, but in one of the pictures, you can definitely see it.

Some more things when making this costume...

- Fabric:
In case you're making this with the Spoonflower printed fabric, please keep in mind that Spoonflower printed fabrics do NOT like being washed in a washing machine; particularly not if there's lots of fabric in the machine (since that can cause the print to partially rub off). IF you wash it in a mostly empty machine, remember to use phosphate free detergents.
Personally, to pre-shrink the fabric, I've just used my bathtub and added lots of hot water, then just let the fabric drip-dry.
Scotchguard-spray the fabric after it is dry. That helps to prevent the print from rubbing off during later washing and / or dry cleaning. I do recommend to have the finished costume dry-cleaned ONLY. Remember though that even dry cleaning shrinks non-pre-shrunk fabric, so pre-shrinking it is really necessary.

- Cape:
The short cape doesn't just need a lining, it also needs fusible interface to remain so considerably stiff.

You also want to gather the shoulder parts slightly, so they actually fit around your shoulders and don't restrict movement so much. If you iron the cape with steam over a rounded surface (...say, a firm pillow...) after gathering those shoulders, wrinkles that came from the gathering will be mostly smoothed out.

One thing I noticed (and with a shock!) was that the 'embroidered zigzagged trim' SHRINKS that lower edge of the cape (and also that of the skirt).
As in: the cape almost didn't fit me when I tried it on for the first time because that lower edge had shrunken almost FOUR INCHES. Steam ironing the *stretched* lower edge helped - it relaxed that zigzagged trim and gave me the four shrunken inches back.
If I hadn't ironed the edge while stretching it, I would have forever been forced to NOT move my arms at all when wearing the cape.

- Dress:
Before sewing the cross trim to the bottom of the skirt, iron that cross trim (by stretching and shearing it) into a more-or-less 'curved' shape. That helps it to be able to conform to the curved shape of the skirt's hem.

When pinning the dress (and also when drafting the pattern), NEVER do that without the hoopskirt you're planning to use with the dress.

Also, flat-line all dress fabric pieces with cheaper simple cotton weave fabric (IKEA, anyone? Wink ). It helps the fabric to really drape properly.

- Cloak:
My cloak shifted towards the front in the pictures (to make it short, I had to run around chasing a large dog out of that garden. That running and shooing made the cloak shift). This is why it seems a couple of inches shorter in the back than it is in the front.
Unfortunately I did not see that until I returned home and looked at the photos; and my son, who took the pictures, apparently didn't see it either.
I'll add snaps on the inside of the shoulders of the cloak and outside of the dress shoulders to, in the future, keep it from shifting (because, let's face it - if it shifts from chasing a dog for ten minutes, it will sure as hell also shift during hours of trooping).

- Cowl:
Oh dear, I rarely made such a weird pattern.

The original cowl has only two visible seams (to left and right of the backside 'hairbag', to be precise); so we'll want to avoid any more seams to show on our cowl as well.

Here's the pattern I came up with (click to enlarge):



Let me explain that one, because it's far from being very simple...

The 'left' side of that picture shows the actual pattern (with a 1 inch grid so it's easier to draft). The 'right' side shows how the 'front' portion of the pattern on the left has to be laid out on two folds in order to cut it.

You first want to cut the 'front' part as shown on the right side. This is really one piece, which basically has the pattern piece of the 'front' part four times in it; mirrored over two axis.

After cutting, fold that front part as shown in the picture along the 'center front' line (right side of fabric facing right side), and close the (picture-wise) 'top' and 'bottom' seams (again, picture wise). Remember that what's named 'center front' will be the part that will go around your face in the end.
After folding and sewing, turn the 'front' piece so you can't see the selvages of the just sewn edges any more. IRON that sewn edge so it becomes smooth. From now on, treat the folded, sewn piece as one layer.

Then sew together the 'top' edge (which says it has to be gathered). This part, if you wear the headdress, will sit ON TOP of your head and will NEVER be seen since it's covered by the headdress. Sew first (remember, treat your folded piece as one layer; so just sew those small, curved edges together), then gather the resulting seam. That top, gathered seam is curved towards the INSIDE in the pattern - that's not a mistake. Your instinct will tell you that it SHOULD be curved towards the OUTSIDE, but that's wrong; believe me (I tried it!).

When finished gathering, sew in the 'back' piece. The numbers on notches and edges should meet those on the 'front' piece.

Add an elastic rubber band in a small tunnel that you sew to the lower edge of the back piece. This should slightly gather the lower edge of that back piece. It then forms a 'hair bag', in which you can hide a braid of your own hair (in case it's long).

I STRONGLY suggest to make a test piece of that cowl first, so you can make sure that it fits. Also the pattern is REALLY weird with all its folds; a test piece will make sure that you understand how it works.

I think that was everything I still wanted to say. And again, a big thank you to everyone who followed me on this journey.
In case anyone has any more questions, please do not hesitate for a second to ask!

...now where are my silk paints? I need to make The Awazing Sleeves Gown (TM) Mr. Green
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Dally ()
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Joined: 02 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! The costume is a knockout! you look beautiful in it. I think this costume is flattering for a range of ages. And thanks for the tips about the cowl!

Regarding the sleeve fabric, I got a swatch of this http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?products_id=311&opt=000 and I think it looks good. I have been experimenting with dyes. The raised spots look more circular in person, and not so diamond shaped.[/u]
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RebelSenator (Raychel Enck)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for posting so much information about this costume.
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Raychel
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Ladyghost4459 (Denise Cowles)



Joined: 07 Aug 2008
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Location: Spring Hill, FL
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Purple cloak Reply with quote

Dally wrote:
Hi everyone,

I found this fabric that looks like it could work for the cloak. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Violet-Jacquard-Upholstery-Drapery-Fabric-/120742904851?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item1c1cd68413



There is a little light blue dot at the base of each fan shape, but it is just a stitch easily snipped at the back and removed.


I purchased some of this fabric and I have to say I really like it for the cloak. It is not an exact match, but it has a nice texture and weight and should do nicely for this project.
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Ladyghost4459 (Denise Cowles)



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Location: Spring Hill, FL
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the samples from Spoonflower of Naergi's digitized yellow embroideries for the dress and caplet and have to say they are quite impressive.
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ladyghost4459 wrote:
Got the samples from Spoonflower of Naergi's digitized yellow embroideries for the dress and caplet and have to say they are quite impressive.


Thank you - so glad you like them Smile
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GentleBant ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 3:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grateful for you sharing all of your experiences and tips here. Smile

I am going to put mine on hold until I can find/afford a proper chirimen/ogre's crape for this.

I have borrowed access to an embroidery machine, but haven't been satisfied with the fabrics I can currently afford, and I sort of have it stuck in my mind that this is only going to happen with a close-enough, fully-embroidered fabric. Just hoping I can actually get to this and do it before I'm too old to even consider wearing it. Smile

I'm hoping to go up to Exotic Silks in the Bay Area this summer to see and touch some of the fabrics for the sleeve, but in the meantime, setting this aside to focus on other projects. (That being said, if anyone finds a perfect crape, please post!!! )
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