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Rebel Fleet Trooper build from scratch
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Rebel Fleet Trooper build from scratch Reply with quote

Since I have my Hoth trooper complete and this winter still has a few weeks of 'it's-way-too-cold-to-do-anything-outside' left in it, I've decided what I want to try to build next.

I started reading through this forum last week and gathered a lot of information and reference photos from the topic threads and links.

I bought these fabrics yesterday:





detail of the blacks. I bought ~2 yards of this black 'bull denim' and about 1 1/2 yards of a black lining material.


Detail of the blue & grey fabrics. The blue is an imported stretch cotton and the grey is supposedly a denim.

There were very few solid grey fabrics at the fabric store. I hope this color will work. Comments?


I have decided to try to build this from scratch, because I know that I would be doing as much work (if not more) trying to alter existing pre-made clothing to both, fit me, and look like what they are supposed to look like.

I found this image of what the shirt is supposed to look like:

That I think I can do. Since I will be building this from scratch, I can build it as close to the screen-used piece as possible. You can't really tell what the closure at the neck (under the bib) is, so I have decided that I will put a short zipper there.

I have read that the pants are supposed to have 'box' pockets. I have a good idea of what those should look like. Are there any really, really good photos of the actual pockets on the pants used for filming?

The vest. I plan to include a lining into the construction, so that it lays nicer and is much more comfortable to wear.

After those 3 pieces are done, I will work on hat(s) for this. That is what the tan material is for.




I have a bunch of questions, most of which concern the vest.

I want to know whether there is a schematic or drawing or lay-out or something of exactly how the front pockets on the ideal vest should go?

I have read that the 2 lower front pockets are supposed to be 'box' cargo pockets with straight flaps. Am I correct?

The upper right pocket should also be a box cargo pocket, with a flap that has a tab. This pocket should be more vertical??

The upper left pocket should be a flat pocket with flap. Is this pocket more square? Or is it more horizontal?

I am assuming that the open space above this smaller left pocket would be for the rank badge. Correct? Would it be OK to sew a piece of velcro there to attach a rank badge?

The back of the vest:

I have read that the long, lower back pocket has 3 compartments? I have also read that this has 4 compartments? Which is preferred?


An other question about the cargo pockets on the pants & vest: are there supposed to be closures on these? Like velcro?


I will try to post photos of what I am doing plus more questions.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a lot of answers to my vest questions here:

http://www.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54370

Phyllis's vest rebuild thread.

Smile

I plan to build the shirt first, so I will go back to that thread soon.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RFT hat(s) As far as I can tell....






Hats worn on the left & right of this screen cap have a center seam (on top)
The person wearing the hat in the center is wearing one where the round part of the hat was sewn in 6 segments.


According to what the costume department from the film said about outfitting all of the extras for this scene:

They had to do it cheap & fast.
I would suspect that meant using existing military & surplus pieces to dress the crowd of extras. I doubt that the costume department had the time to painstakingly alter what they had available, so I am assuming for the most part, they used things 'as is'.

With that in mind, I think that this style hat:
http://onlinemilitaria.net/shopexd.asp?id=249&bc=no
is very close to what was probably used for the movie.


This hat has a center seam.
I have read in the hat discussion that there is a flap on the backs of the hats that were used in the movies. There were probably other versions of surplus hats available that did have that feature. I doubt that the costume department had time to add a flap to every hats used for that scene.

Here is an image of that scene being filmed:

Obviously, they ran out of helmets for all of the extras. The folks that didn't get a helmet got a hat instead! Smile

.....and then there are the comic book images:

Which looks a lot more like the shape of the Hoth Rebel trooper hat.



So there are 3 different approaches to building a Rebel trooper hat.
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Commander Cody (Jason R.)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're on a Trooper roll, Kathy. Keep it up!
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dug through some of my boxes of sewing patterns and decided to start with these two.



The vest from view "B" is pretty close to the shape of the RFT vest. I had originally used this pattern years ago for Vince's Renaissance Faire costume.


The last time I used this pattern was for the top of Arturo's Jango Fett suit.


I am starting with the shirt today. Here are the pieces of the pattern that I am going to use to build my shirt. This pattern does have a yoke and a 2-piece collar. I am altering the front opening so that it will not have a button front.


Here is the pattern piece I drafted for the bib piece. I cut out 2 pieces of fabric plus one piece of shirt-tailor fusible interfacing, so that the bib won't sag.


I got the shirt yoke and collar constructed as well as the bib piece. Here it is lying on top of the parts oft he shirt that I have together.


Here I have the zipper mostly sewn in. The layers were too thick at the collar for me to get under my sewing machine foot, so I will be sewing it in by hand at the top. I also need to hand-sew the collar facing, so I will do that all at the same time.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully...these photos will help...

I do have one of the hats...

I had asked Lothar from the German Base for a pattern for the hat that he had made...
and...
bless his heart...
he didn't send me a pattern....but he sent a hat...

so...

here are some photos of my hat...














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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


After I finished hand-sewing the collar facing and resolved the top ends of the zipper inside the collar facing, I decided where I wanted the bib to be placed. After I knew how high I wanted to to be, I folded it down, so I could sew the bottom edge of the bib onto the front of the shirt.


Then I pressed it and pinned the left side of the bib in place where I planned to top-stitch it in place on the shirt.


Here is the shirt on my dress form...


Here is the bib open and the zipper open. After I saw how this was working, I decided that I would need to sew the lower right side of the bib down as well.


Closer shot of the zipper under the bib-front opening.


After it looked like this was working, I proceeded on the rest of the shirt last night.


Front of the shirt.


Detail of front. I sewed a snap at the corner to hold the right side of the bib in place.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Rebel Fleet trooper shirt:


Screen-used Rebel Fleet Trooper shirt:
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schph Gochi wrote:
Hopefully...these photos will help...

I do have one of the hats...

I had asked Lothar from the German Base for a pattern for the hat that he had made...
and...
bless his heart...
he didn't send me a pattern....but he sent a hat...

so...

here are some photos of my hat...



.............


WOW! Thanks for posting these Phyllis! Smile
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


I started working on the vest this morning. I got my fabric & lining fabric pressed, then got the pattern pieces out to press those too. The last time I used this pattern was to make a Renaissance style vest for Vince. I altered that pattern back then too. I discovered though that I had indeed cut the pieces for the vest to the "S" size. I figured that I would need it to be the "L" size to fit me. I thought about going to the fabric store to get another pattern, but then discovered that this one is out of print. So plan "B" is to re-draw the shape to be a "L" size. I figured out what proportions I would need to add & where.


I then fit the cut pieces of fabric onto my dress form to see how it would be fitting on top of the RFT shirt. I decided that I needed to lower the front neck opening slightly and make the shoulders a bit more narrow. I cut the alterations in the fabric, then I got ready to cut the exact same shapes out of the lining fabric.


I sewed the front & back pieces of the vest & lining together at the shoulder seams and then fit it on my dress form. Here is the front side. I did narrow the front opening of the vest slightly as well.


Back side. The entire vest will decrease in size at all of the edges once I sew the lining in.


I am trying to figure out what size the pockets on the vest should be. Here I have cut out some pieces of paper to sizes that I think will be in proportion.


Pocket shapes for the back side of the vest...


Pocket shapes folded over.


I am trying to decide whether I want to try to build 'cargo' pockets, or make these like how Phyllis did for her vest re-build.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will watch closely if you do the cargo pockets....

I had made a few pockets with the expands many years ago...
and ...
well...

I was not happy with how mine turned out....

I guess I should try again as I have logged a LOT more sewing machine hours since then...

Laughing
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


I used the lining material to line all of the pocket pieces that I made yesterday. I decided to make the back pockets flat, since I already have enough junk in my trunk that I really don't need to exaggerate that feature.
Here are the bottom edges of the pocket pieces pinned in place.


Then I folded the pockets up and pressed them, then pinned the side edges in place. I sewed the sides down and sewed the sections on the bottom pocket.

I cut out and sewed the pocket pieces for the front in a similar way. I was about to start fitting them on the front of the vest, but then it got kind of late, so I stopped for the night.
However, I was thinking about it all night. I have currently made the front pockets to be flat, like Phyllis did for her new RFT vest. As I was thinking about it though, I think I will re-do them today to be cargo pockets. I was thinking about what I might be carrying in these pockets (like my camera) and how that would look awkward in a flat pocket.
So, it's back to the pattern-piece drawing board today to make some box-style pockets for the front of the vest. I also wanted to make the right front upper pocket's flap with a tab, which I forgot about doing until I was laying the pieces out on the front of the vest last night.

I do think that lining this vest is the way to go in order for this to fit and wear really nicely. I will sew the lining in after I have all of the pockets on the vest.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


Here is the back of the vest with the pockets attached.


I had originally made all of the front pockets flat. However, after considering what I might want to put in these pockets, I decided that I would try to build cargo pockets.
Here is the first pattern piece for one of the lower front pockets.


Here are the pattern pieces for the upper cargo pockets and the pattern piece for the right-side upper pocket flap with the tab-piece.


Detail of the upper-right side pocket and flap pattern pieces. I plan to add a loop to the pocket for the closure.


This is the fabric pieces cut out for one of the lower front cargo pockets. I decided that I would make all of these cargo pockets in 3 sections, with seams on each side, so they would naturally be more 'boxy'. Adding these seams on each side will give the pockets a box-shape when they are on the vest.


Here are all of the pockets sewn together at the seams. I top stitched along the seams, hemmed the tops of the pockets. I finished all of the edges with my serger, because I don't want the fabric to unravel as I am working on them and later when they are sewn onto the vest. All of the flaps are lined with the lining material. They are also top-stitched, because I won't be able to do that once the pieces are sewn onto the vest.


Here is the back side of the upper-right pocket. I used my button-holer to create slots for the loop to pass through. I added some fusible interfacing to the back side of the pocket before I made the button holes.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


This is what the right upper pocket looks like on the front with the loop for the tab in place.


....and this is what the pocket looks like with the flap in place.


Here are all four of the front pockets with their flaps pinned to the backs. I hand-sewed all of the bottoms of the pockets to the sides of the pockets because I could make the corners join perfectly lined up that way. I sewed velcro on each of the pockets and flaps, because it would be very difficult to do that after the pockets are sewn in place on the vest.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhhh....

I see you decided to go with the pocket that has the tab on it....
I have never been able to pick out that detail....
my eyesight is very poor....especially black on black....
so..

since I could never see that detail.....

I had left it off....


so....how are you feeling about the expands?
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