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pin tuck and riding seam
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Cobalt60
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:05 am    Post subject: pin tuck and riding seam Reply with quote

not just a formal requirement,
also a chance to take in some fabric from the legs Razz

pin tuck:
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/6494/img2609h.jpg
riding seam:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7199/ridingseams.jpg

before and after:
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Masterbean (Brian Bean)
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha, I was thinking about doing the same thing for the riding seam, my pants already had the pin tuck...but since they weren't made the way they were in the movie, they have the seams of a regular pant cut. Glad to know it looks just fine, nice job!
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STAR-WARS-FREAK-JPB (JEFFREY BUHOLTZ)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting these now its a little more clear what this is all about. The pics will help show our local costume support person what I need my endor pants to look like so I can regester it. Looks like the bottom of the pin tuck is actually pulled over so that they go into the boots neater, correct ?
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nerftheherder ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are those the costume base pants? I have a pair of the ANH pants from them and would love to get them looking right Really hoping my seamstress can handle it. The ROTJ pants I ordered from CE, so they should need minor if any alterations.
Looks good!
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SteveSolo (Steve Elliot)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,

Congratulations go out to COBALT60 for going from informal to FORMAL on all 3 of his Han Solo Costumes.

If I can be of ANY help to anyone please feel free to pm or e-mail me.
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SteveSolo (Steve Elliot)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nerftheherder wrote:
Are those the costume base pants? I have a pair of the ANH pants from them and would love to get them looking right Really hoping my seamstress can handle it. The ROTJ pants I ordered from CE, so they should need minor if any alterations.
Looks good!


I have the Costumebase pants for ANH.
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done Cobalt!

For those of you who have seen Cobalt's costume progress it needs to be said. He has done a very great job taking what I would call a joke of a costume to start with, and turned it into a solid Han Solo costume. I have said a few times before in other channels that the amount of work that would be required to make a store bought costume pass the Han standards would make a seamstress dizzy. I am sure it was not easy, but he has done all the alterations that where needed, and it shows.

I was once asked to do a write up on how to modify the costume base costume so that it meets the Han standards... I replied with... I do not know where I would start... there is so much wrong with the costume! Being that you have done so Cobalt.. and done it well, would you be interested in doing a complete write up on "How to" modify the costumebase costume? I think it would be a great asset to the Fringe section... not to mention a nice feather in your cap!

Well done Cobalt!!

cheers
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Cobalt60
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

STAR-WARS-FREAK-JPB wrote:
Looks like the bottom of the pin tuck is actually pulled over so that they go into the boots neater, correct ?


its the same stitch all the way down the leg, from the waist to the hem.
here's another pic http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/5973/img2611jyp.jpg

all you do is: iron the existing crease on the front of each leg, and then sew along the edge of the crease.



-=====-
edit : I just bought a new camera I might as well put it to use:
-=====-

lets say this is your pants:
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4360/img0349q.jpg

you want to iron the crease and sew along the edge closest to the "12" ball
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7310/img0353aeh.jpg
you can see the stitching here
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3320/img0352m.jpg
and here
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5038/img0351v.jpg

when you're done, it should look like this
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4118/img0354a.jpg

[/ Pin Tuck Tutorial] Razz
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Cobalt60
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoloYT1300 wrote:
... would you be interested in doing a complete write up on "How to" modify the costumebase costume? I think it would be a great asset to the Fringe section... not to mention a nice feather in your cap!

Well done Cobalt!!

cheers


I'll give it some thought and see what I can come up with. I'll go back over my photo-record and see what I have documented. sometimes its hard to tell a story with random/existing pics, and you have to go back and take new shots to specifically illustrate what you're trying to say.. like that pin tuck tutorial in the previous post. hehe
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nerftheherder ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are some helpfull pics for sure!
My only concern with all this is the price. I know sometimes the Costumebase pants and costume look appealing because they have a lower price. That was my initial thought! The down side is after all the alterations (not including the vest), and the base price of the pants, you are paying almost what you would for a pair of pants from another custom company (CE or The Magic Shop). If you can sew yourself, then your ok, but for those of us out there, like myself, that are needle and thred deficient, it's just not as cost effective.
However, I have the pants so now I will be getting them fixed! This has inspired me, though I will be "paying for it", it will be nice to have two formal Han costumes!
I guess what I am saying is for those of us that have already bought CB stuff, this link will be very helpfull and a tutorial would be (is) great.
For those who are still looking, just be aware of the massive alterations and changes you will have to make to the costume. As a great smuggler once said, "Good luck....you're gonna need it."

Once again, great great great job!
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STAR-WARS-FREAK-JPB (JEFFREY BUHOLTZ)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK now I understand. Thank you for explaining that with pics. That will be simple for my costume maker to do. How far from the edge would you say?

Now on to that Ridingseem business. I am still clueless on that. Is it the same thing just continued over the seat of the pants in an arch over to the other side?


-=====-
edit : I just bought a new camera I might as well put it to use:
-=====-

lets say this is your pants:
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4360/img0349q.jpg

you want to iron the crease and sew along the edge closest to the "12" ball
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7310/img0353aeh.jpg
you can see the stitching here
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3320/img0352m.jpg
and here
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5038/img0351v.jpg

when you're done, it should look like this
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4118/img0354a.jpg

[/ Pin Tuck Tutorial] Razz[/quote]
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Masterbean (Brian Bean)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

STAR-WARS-FREAK-JPB wrote:
OK now I understand. Thank you for explaining that with pics. That will be simple for my costume maker to do. How far from the edge would you say?

Now on to that Ridingseem business. I am still clueless on that. Is it the same thing just continued over the seat of the pants in an arch over to the other side?


you'll pretty much want it to run the length as well, from bottom of your hem on the back of the pant leg, up to about the middle of the butt and then straight across (it doesn't have to be a square hem, it can arch and i believe it actually does so). You're simulating the seam as if the pants were cut as a riding style. If you look at the pics of Han's pants, there isn't a seam that runs up the middle of the leg like a normal pair of pants.
Any seamstress/tailor should know what you mean by a pintuck, you just have to mention that you want one pintuck to run the length of the pants in the front middle of both legs. It's a stitch that's done right on the edge of the fold. You can do a google search on how to's for a pintuck and you should find many a tutorial on how to do it.
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Cobalt60
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
OK now I understand. Thank you for explaining that with pics. That will be simple for my costume maker to do. How far from the edge would you say?



I measured it just now @ 1/8 inch

Quote:

Now on to that Ridingseem business. I am still clueless on that. Is it the same thing just continued over the seat of the pants in an arch over to the other side?


these were my reference pics of the riding seam:

http://imageevent.com/kay_dee/fidm/originaltrilogy;jsessionid=xpgccwsla3.penguin_s?p=8&n=1&m=45&c=5&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=2

http://imageevent.com/kay_dee/fidm/originaltrilogy;jsessionid=xpgccwsla3.penguin_s?p=30&n=1&m=45&c=5&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=2

http://imageevent.com/kay_dee/fidm/originaltrilogy;jsessionid=xpgccwsla3.penguin_s?p=72&n=1&m=45&c=5&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=2


this is my pic of the finished riding seam(s):

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7199/ridingseams.jpg



easiest way to do it: turn the pants inside-out.
draw the line of the riding seam with a bright crayon.
fold along the crayon line... then seam along the edge of the fold.

same procedure as your pin tuck, but on the inside of the pants this time. (pants are inside-out)


Last edited by Cobalt60 on Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:17 pm; edited 2 times in total
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LeiaYT1300 (Beret Balestrieri Kohn)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgive me for intruding - this has been a wonderful thread to read, and I must give my congratulations to Cobalt for all the hard work he's put into his costume upgrades - everything look absolutely fantastic and he is a great example for all Han costumers to follow. Indeed, I heartily echo Bob's request that you provide a tutorial if you would. Very Happy

I would like to make an addition to Cobalt's instructions for the pintuck and the riding seam, just for added clarification and having sewn a few of these myself.

When sewing the pintuck, keep your line of stitching no further than an 1/8" away from the fold edge, which is how a classic pintuck is done.

Then, when sewing the riding seam, no matter if you have cut on the line and are sewing it together or have made a tuck to sew down on the inside of the pant, you should have the line stitching no more than 1/4" away from the edge of the fabric or fold edge. Anything larger makes it more difficult to sew when you reach the curve in the riding seam.

You see, the curve is on the bias of the fabric - e.g. at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal and vertical weave of the fabric. When a fabric is sewn or cut on the bias angle, the fabric stretches more than it would if you tried to stretch it on the vertical or horizontal weave, or grain. Because the curve is on the bias, you have enough stretch to make the round shapes conform for sewing but only if your seam allowance is small, meaning the stitching is no more than 1/4" away from the edge ("seam allowance" is the section of fabric between your line of stitching and the edge of the fabric).

Also, if you decide to cut on the line you've drawn and then sew the seam in, I highly recommend using a basic zigzag stitch on the edge of the seam so the fabric doesn't fray with wear or washing. Essentially, you would be doing what is known as "finishing" the seam. If you fold the fabric and sew it down, no need to worry. Smile

And finally, you will notice that the original riding seam is "topstitched". This means the seam allowance was ironed toward the direction of the waistband and the bloodstripes, and a line of stitching 1/8" was added to the upper/outer side of the seam to make certain the seam allowance lays flat. If you made the pants from scratch you would make the riding seam and topstitch it before you sewed the side seams and inner leg seams (it's what I did with both of Bob's pairs of pants), but on a pair of ready-made pants, all you would need do is take apart the inner leg seams with a seam ripper, make up your riding seam, topstitch it, and then resew the inner leg seams back together.

Now topstitching the riding seam takes it the ultimate degree, but I thought I'd mention it in case any of you want to take it that far.

Certainly some of you may be aware of all of this already - I never like to assume that men don't know anything of sewing, as Bob himself does sew and rather well - but I thought I would offer the above just for the record. Smile
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Cobalt60
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

some good advice that I only followed by coincidence LOL. I'll be the first to admit my lack of sewing skillz. my wife has only owned a sewing machine for about 4 months and I'm still getting the hang of operating it. (making it up as I go along).


Quote:
...when sewing the riding seam, no matter if you have cut on the line and are sewing it together or have made a tuck to sew down on the inside of the pant, you should have the line stitching no more than 1/4" away from the edge of the fabric or fold edge. Anything larger makes it more difficult to sew when you reach the curve in the riding seam.


I folded, and then sewed the edge of the fold. my seam allowance around the arch of the riding seam was really tight, only about 1/8 inch (like a pin tuck, on the inside of the pants). but I found that once I got past the arch and down to the straight part, (down the leg), then I could gradually tuck more, to create a more tapered leg.

((I decided afterward that it might have been easier to just cut on the crayon line, and then seam back together ... but you make a good point ... I wasn't thinking about seam allowances on the arch when I called that "easy" (hehe). I guess its probably easier to just fold/tuck your riding seam, after reading Leia's post))
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