About Us Members Unit Listing Events Costuming Resources Forum Contact Us Trading Cards
 

Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=3ef78d8f0db956f587e2c909d81afd5aMedals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

Looking for helmet advice...

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Rebel Alliance Infantry Detachment
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
rogue_artist (Jason Bandit Adams)



Joined: 23 Dec 2008
Posts: 17

Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:15 am    Post subject: Looking for helmet advice... Reply with quote

Hi Legion!

After much false-start and delay, Ive FINALLY got my thermoforming machine squared away and working like a champ! First project: the WWII Talker helmet family of helmets. Meaning the Rebel Fleet Trooper, Death Star Gunner and Death Star Trooper.

So I am looking for a few points of advice...

1). the Navy Talker helmet is all original and in mint condition. Meaning its got the old 1940's paint where they mixed it with sawdust. Now, I am also a living historian (re-enactor) and have an ardent policy for NOT ruining historic memorabilia for costume pieces. What should I do?

I am going with .090 ABS for most helmet pieces. Would haircel-backed .090 ABS be study enough it will not pick up the minor "bumping" of the sawdust paint? Or should I go with thicker ABS? The helmet is a very simple shape, it does not have any detailing or any need of thinner plastic. Thicker is probably better for an item that might be dropped or rammed into low-hung ceilings anyway huh?

2). speaking of thicker plastic.... the vented armour plates at the forehead and rear of the Death Star Trooper helmet should probably be pretty thick huh? .125?

3). the scoops and neck-protector flanges on the rear of these helmets.... thinner ABS? .060 maybe? So it does not pull the helmets off-balance and drag them backward?

4). Rebel Fleet Trooper coomm box.... that darned antennae! I want to use the same little antennae as is on RC cars. Simple, springy, whippy little wire. That way it doesnt break off if you encounter low-hanging obstacles. Any leads on where to get wire like that? Other than radio shack where its ridiculously expensive?

5). helmet lining... I have always been a fan of the hard-hat liner. So i want to have that in my helmet(s). However, at $15 a pop for a replacement liner, I find it kind of prohibitive Sad Any leads on finding those cheaper?

6). scoop on the back.... So is it just me or is the Death Star Gunner and Rebel Fleet trooper basically the same helmet? I mean, is it the same scoop/fin on the back? Or am I just not looking at it right?

I give a heart-felt thanks to anyone who has some experience to give me notes. When I make my helmets, I want them to be sturdy but I want them made right. I don't want to bonk my noggin off of something and find a massive crack along the top. But I don't want to have something that's just a large chunk of needlessly heavy plastic.

kindest regards,
-Jason
_________________
-Jason Banditt Adams
www.Rogue-artist.com
Ohio's Zen trooper
Proud to be one of Krash's Kommandos Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jedi_Boyer (Michel Boyer)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 04 Aug 2008
Posts: 1018
Location: Morgantown, WV
Medals: 2 (View more...)
Rebel Legion CV Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can try to answer a few of your questions:

Question 3) Having carried my rft helmet around a good bit, I would not recommend a thinner plastic for the back scoop. It seems to take more of a beating than the main shell of the helmet since it has more of a tendency to get twisted when set down or bumped on things when I turn around.

Question 4) the antennas: I used one of the antennas off of a RC control box. I kept an eye out at the local thrift store until I found one for 25 cents. Then I ripped apart the controller and took the antenna out. It works great because it even has a loop at the bottom already for mounting it with a small screw.

Question 5) Here locally (eastern WV and parts of MD) there is a store called Ollie's Bargain Outlet http://www.olliesbargainoutlet.com/default.aspx (similar to a Big Lots) they have hardhats with liners for only $6 each brand new. I looked on their sight and they do have some stores in Ohio. I picked up a couple for future helmets. I can check to see if they have any more the next time I drive by one if you don't have one near you.

Hope this helps.
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Kevin Skoglund (Kevin Skoglund)
Archived Member Profile


Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 112

Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking forward to seeing your progress on this . I made my Imperial Naval helmet out of an ORIGINAL ww2 navy talker helmet . In fact.... i am currently re-working the shield and ears on mine . As i broke the shield and i don't like my first Ear design . New shield will be abs . This helmet DOES share alot with the RFT helmet . The main differences are the inclusion of a shield and side "Ears " for the Imperial Naval .
Here are some pics of mine.....as well as some reference pics i have .

[IMG]http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w293/Cplwoods1/Imperial Naval trooper/S5000279.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w293/Cplwoods1/Imperial Naval trooper/deathstartrooper.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w293/Cplwoods1/Imperial Naval trooper/navalhelmetpic1.jpg[/IMG]
_________________
Even a Crazy Old Wizard can control the mind of an elite Stormtrooper ! "These aren't the Droids you're Looking for " .
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Shivannd (Joel Webne)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 03 Jan 2007
Posts: 8100
Location: Virginia
Medals: 3 (View more...)
Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the antennae I used an old pair of tv rabbit ears and clipped it down and then went to Home Depot and used a piece from inside a toilet repair set.
If I get a moment before the weekend, I will take pictures of what I did.
When I was all finished I was able to raise and lower the antennae
_________________
"Why, you stuck up,..half-witted,..scruffy-looking,..nerf-herder!"..."Who's scruffy-looking?"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
Volund Starfire (Jason Ellenburg)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 1016
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) Would it be possible to make a really good pull or mold then simple sand down the mold into the desired smoothness?

2) No idea as that is not a costume I do. However, when it comes to the actual helmet, I prefer the thicker feel as it look more "safe" and is less likely to become damaged easily.

3) I have to agree with JEdi_Boyer. My scoop looks bad after just a year of wear. I would make it the same thickness as the main helmet.

4) I would suggest buying a length of wire from a hardware store, getting a tip from Radio Shack, and making your own. As an alternative, you could find a retractable (rabbit ear) style of antenna and use it. That way it can be collapsed when you put the helmet away and not get bent out of shape.

5) Hard Hat liners can be found as low as $2.36 each at Discount Safety Gear. They even have chin straps which might be a good idea for the chin system for as low as $1.99. Depending on how you want to make the chin strap, this might be a good idea to keep it more stable on the head.

6) You are correct. The difference is the lower lip/eyeshield on the one and the visor/front shield on the other. Oh, also the Gunner helmet has the button things on the comm box.

I might be interested in a couple of these for upgrading my own as well as making my wife one. Heck, depending on how good they are, I may be interested in ordering a few of these for a workshop if I can get it off the ground.

_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Darth Lars
Guest







PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Looking for helmet advice... Reply with quote

rogue_artist wrote:
Would haircel-backed .090 ABS be study enough it will not pick up the minor "bumping" of the sawdust paint?

I suggest that you make a cast of your navy talker helmet instead of using it as the mold each time.
You would then clean up the cast, and then the sawdust will not be an issue. Also, the helmet should not have a rolled edge, like the original helmet.

rogue_artist wrote:
Or should I go with thicker ABS?

I think so. The large shape will stretch the plastic, so .090 ABS will get very thin at the edges.
Thinner plastic would be preferred for the smaller parts.

rogue_artist wrote:
I want to use the same little antennae as is on RC cars.[...]Any leads on where to get wire like that?

Eh.. A store that has RC models, plastic models, railway models etc.
They should also stock various thicknesses of steel wire that are less expensive than real antennas.

Btw.. The screen-used helmet was molded from a chin cup from a helmet of the brand AGV. I have also seen the correct chin cups on the Swedish military motorcycle helmet M71.

I think that no previous maker of these helmets have made the radio box correct so far. The disc should have three knobs on it, there should be a depression of the bolt and the lines should only be slots in the box - not rods on the outside.

Another tip: Trim one helmet. Then make a mold out of plastic bandages that you lay up to the edge. Then you can use that as a template for trimming the next helmet. Pop it in the helmet shell and pencil along the inner edge.

There is demand for these helmets over here too, in the near future.
Back to top
Albator67 (Joel Lecompte)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 26

Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like a said on an other topic, for my RFT antena I used a white steel hanger, those are very cheap (if not free at youre local dry cleaner) no paint is needed and are very easy to work with.

And if you are successfull with the gunner helmet, I might be interested to buy one from you. Razz

good luck Very Happy
_________________
Rebel Fleet trooper Motto " Run and never look back "
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
badger ()
Archived Member Profile


Joined: 22 Apr 2003
Posts: 647

Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

1). the Navy Talker helmet is all original and in mint condition. Meaning its got the old 1940's paint where they mixed it with sawdust. Now, I am also a living historian (re-enactor) and have an ardent policy for NOT ruining historic memorabilia for costume pieces. What should I do?


I'm going to agree with what other said. Pull a copy of the original helmet (fill the inside with newspaper densely packed and then tape over it with a WHOLE LOT of masking tap or something similar to avoid the undercut. )

Once you've pulled a good copy, don't trim that mold, pour it full of cheap plaster and make a positive mold. Sand and smooth the plaster and shape it with Bondo or something.

Then pull another copy, and pour a more lasting buck with a harder plaster like substance or stick with plaster and know you'll need to repour later down the line potentially. (although my plaster one has lasted for quite some time now, I attached a plywood bottom to the mold and it prevents cracking and chipping.)

Make all your production pieces with the last one. and if the mold cracks or chips, you still have the master plastic one to pour from. It's a good idea to keep a really clean pull untrimmed around as a back up in case your plaster molds go south.

Quote:

I am going with .090 ABS for most helmet pieces. Would haircel-backed .090 ABS be study enough it will not pick up the minor "bumping" of the sawdust paint?


you will need at LEAST .093" or .090" or whatever for the dome. It's a long pull, and it thins out a fair amount at the bottom edge. I use .093" HIPS for my helmets. Hair Cell abs will show a slight pattern in reflection.

Quote:

4). Rebel Fleet Trooper coomm box.... that darned antennae! I want to use the same little antennae as is on RC cars. Simple, springy, whippy little wire. That way it doesnt break off if you encounter low-hanging obstacles. Any leads on where to get wire like that? Other than radio shack where its ridiculously expensive?


I opted out of including one, since not all the troopers have one, and it's easier to travel without one.

Quote:

5). helmet lining... I have always been a fan of the hard-hat liner. So i want to have that in my helmet(s). However, at $15 a pop for a replacement liner, I find it kind of prohibitive Sad Any leads on finding those cheaper?


big box hardware store, I buy a cheap hard hat for 6.99 (lowes and home depot I think) and take the liner out. I have a lot of empty hard hats lying around. Smile

To make them fit inside the helmet I'll give you a little tip. Cut little wooden wedges for the tabs, and attach those to the liner. then put the industrial str. velcro inside, and cover the wedges with the other side. The angle makes it easier to get a good bond on the liner to helmet inside connection.

Hope it helps.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Darth Lars
Guest







PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

badger wrote:
Quote:

4). Rebel Fleet Trooper coomm box.... that darned antennae!

I opted out of including one, since not all the troopers have one, and it's easier to travel without one.

Are you sure that not all troopers have one? They are so thin that they can be difficult to see from even a relatively short distance.

Mount the antenna firmly inside the comm box. Fasten the bolt to the comm box with a simple nut on the inside of the box.
Then the whole box assembly can be easily attached and detached with a wing-nut on the inside of the helmet shell.
Back to top
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Rebel Alliance Infantry Detachment All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2014 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group