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Rivet question.
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Rivet question. Reply with quote

Does anyone have experience riveting Kenny's leg flares to Bojangles leg flare holder? Specifically, I'm looking for what kind of rivet to use. I went to Michaels, and the only rivets I could find were the ones that are used to rivet two pieces of leather together.

What I think is needed is a one sided rivet that you can stick in and it will hold itself in without a backing.

Can anyone tell me where they got these rivets? I think they need to be 1/8".
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Jedi Loreen (Lori Procopio)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're thinking of pop rivets. 1/8" diameter sounds right.



You will also need the rivet tool, or gun, as some people call them.



These can be found at hardware stores.

If you don't want to buy the tool for just this project, see if anyone you know has one. Probably check your local 501st Garrison, if you have friends there, a lot of those guys have them, because they use pop rivets on their armor.

Get the aluminum rivets. They'll need to be about 3/16" longer than the thickness of the flare holder fabric plus the thickness of the flare to work properly.

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Mr. Bojangles
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Rivet question. Reply with quote

maboot38 wrote:
Does anyone have experience riveting Kenny's leg flares to Bojangles leg flare holder? Specifically, I'm looking for what kind of rivet to use. I went to Michaels, and the only rivets I could find were the ones that are used to rivet two pieces of leather together.

What I think is needed is a one sided rivet that you can stick in and it will hold itself in without a backing.

Can anyone tell me where they got these rivets? I think they need to be 1/8".


Or you can also tap those holes with #6 screw. Then align your flares and drill a hole thru the holder and put your screw in. This will hide everything and looks neat.

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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

We were supposed to have a build for the local base, but up here in Hoth, the weather can be a bit thwarting, so we had to cancel.

I supposed I can borrow the rivet puncher from Home Depot, but I need further help. You said:

'They'll need to be about 3/16" longer than the thickness of the flare holder fabric plus the thickness of the flare to work properly.'

Do they really make different types of 1/8" rivets so that some are 3/16" longer or do I need to adjust a standard rivet?
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for tapping the holes, are there self tapping metal screws, or do I need to be in posession of a tap and die set to be able to tap the holes?

I think if I can tap them, it would be idea, just like the belt mini-flares are.
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Mr. Bojangles
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maboot38 wrote:
As for tapping the holes, are there self tapping metal screws, or do I need to be in posession of a tap and die set to be able to tap the holes?

I think if I can tap them, it would be idea, just like the belt mini-flares are.


No...you just need to get the tap and drill bit combo. They are about $3 - $4. I assume you already have a drill. Then you also need a tap wrench - about $4.



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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GREAT! I think tapping the holes is the way to go then, because I want the screws to be hidden inside the leg band.
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Jedi Loreen (Lori Procopio)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rivets come in different lengths, yes. 1/4" long should work for what you want to use it for.

A punch is used for an entirely different type of rivet, like the ones used on leather. Not for pop rivets.

If you want to use screws instead, don't use the self tapping ones, they usually have big ugly heads that you probably wouldn't want rubbing against your boot or flight suit, depending on where you wear your flare holder. You'll want to use machine screws, with flat smooth heads, so you will need to tap the holes for that.

You will only need a tap (and a tap handle), a die is for putting the threads onto a piece of rod to make a threaded post or clean up the threads on a screw.

A tap cuts the threads into a hole.

I've used all these kinds of tools in one of the jobs I used to have.



Edit:

Eh, too slow, I was.
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I think the tap is the way to go then. I'll try to pick one up today.
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So when I go into Home Depot, I'm looking for a #6 screw tap and tap wrench? How will I know which screws fit? Am I looking for a flat head #6 machine screw? I assume I"ll want a wahser too.

Sorry for all the questions, but.....measure twice, cut once!
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the side of the tap Bit , you will see markings like #6/20 or #6/16. What ever tap you go with you will want to match them numbers up with a srew with the same numbers. 6 being the size ( metric ), and 20 or 16 determines how many thread count.

Bob
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm planning on tapping the holes in the flares pictured above, which are about 1/8". Does that mean that #6 will fit, and that the thread doesn't matter as long as the tap matches the screw?
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maboot38 wrote:
I'm planning on tapping the holes in the flares pictured above, which are about 1/8". Does that mean that #6 will fit, and that the thread doesn't matter as long as the tap matches the screw?


1/8 is still a pretty small hole, but maybe large enough to get the tap started. The whole idea of driling a whole which you intend to tap is be ease. If you drill the hole to small and try to tap, you can damage the tap, and end up with alot of headaches. If you tap the hole to big, you will not end up with a strong thread, resulting in stripped thread in no time. One advice I would suggest when tapping is using a light machine oil to help with the tapping of your new hole.

As for the threads... it matters alot! There are various different types of threading. Most commonly known are what is called Machine fine and Course threadings. All threadings have a size.... # 6 only determins the diameter of the screw. the 20 ( 6-20 ) determins the threading. That is the number you must match up with on the tap. if you try to put the wrong screw into the hole you will strip it. So make sure the tap and the srew you buy is on the same page.

I hope this clears things up a bit for yah.

Bob
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maboot38 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is very helpful, thanks.

My other question was answered by an email from Kenny, saying that I could use a 8-32 tap/screw.
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dirk steele (karl)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maboot38 wrote:
I'm planning on tapping the holes in the flares pictured above, which are about 1/8". Does that mean that #6 will fit, and that the thread doesn't matter as long as the tap matches the screw?


certian drill sizes go with certian diameter of bolts so the threads make a good alignment and have applicapable clearance (not too loose or too tight . and as SoloYT1300 mentioned there are fine and coarse threads the higher the # the more threads per inch and will usually have a better result holding 2 pieces together . if you have any questions a sales person at the hard ware store . be sure to pick up washers ,3 way oil ,and some thread lock Wink
and when you go to tap i would suggest looking up some instructions on the web . taps can break easily and be a pain to remove broken off piece .
here's a link to some tips -----> http://www.spaco.org/taptips.htm
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