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Sea_Marshall WIP: The Mandalorian Beskar v2

 
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Sea_Marshall ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 7:30 am    Post subject: Sea_Marshall WIP: The Mandalorian Beskar v2 Reply with quote

Greetings Rebels.

I've started a WIP for Beskar Mando and thought I'd bring it over. I'm nearing the end of the build and learned a lot, perhaps you'll find a few tips and tricks here and there.

In a nutshell, all of the armor is 3D printed on a CR10-S, using Great Ape Studio's files and is presently planned to be chromed using graphite powder and a 2k clear coat. I note which items are printed at what size because I had to resize a few parts to better fit.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/GreatApeStudioArt?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=762693554

Right Gauntlet:100%
I have a LED screen on order that cycles Mandoa, from LightningLion on The Dented Helmet, or Rionu Customs on Facebook. Same guy.



Left Gauntlet: 100%
At this point I plan to install a small blue led flashlight, or fairy lights, but am still undecided. Should be an easy install.



Left and Right Thigh: 110%



Kidney and Hips: 100%



Chest: 110%
This was bumped up to properly fit my chest width. 100% was too small and the 10% change is perfect for me, 45 inch chest.




Shoulders: 110%
These were too small at 100%, it didn't even cover my whole bicep. (weird flex... plus a dad pun) Cool



Helmet: 100%
This is a bad picture because I printed it in pieces, but then decided to print it in one piece, which you'll see later. Helmet fits great at 100% for me.




Soft Goods: Sky Costume
This was a cheap alternative to what's out there for custom tailoring, and all I was after is the flight suit, cummerbund, and vest. For $150 USD, the mando package they have is great. Here's an inventory of the stuff I end up keeping.

Vest:


Cummerbund:


Pants:


Top:


There are a few other parts from the kit that will come in handy, namely the leather straps for the boots, gloves aren't bad if you want to cut costs, and there's a shin wrap thing with a zipper that I modify later.

Cape: Black Boiled wool from Mood Fabrics
There's a debate over wether it's a charcoal gray, or black. I think it's a black because the charcoal has color variation. If anything, it's easier to weather into a lighter color on the cape than try to make a gray darker, so I went with black.




I think that's about good for the start. I'll follow up with additional posts as I make my way through the build. There are a few parts I will scratch build, including the left shin and leather apron that goes over the cummerbund.

Thanks for following along.
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Sea_Marshall ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dying the Flight Suit: Its a good day to dye!

I wanted to get the vest and flight suit in about the same color range for Beskar Mando. He's got a gray/brown suit, so this needed to be modified. (There's a new Beskar Mando variant from Sky Costume now FYI)




I boiled water to like 160 F degrees in a still, then drained that into a wash basin. I used 8 gallons of water, a cup of salt, and some dish washing detergent, stirred for a few minutes, then added half a bottle of the gray dye. (Make sure you get all purpose, and not synthetic dye since this flight suit is basic cotton). I let it stew for about 10 minutes then rinsed, washed, and dried them.

The vest was a little blue and needed more gray to match the flight suit.


I added a tablespoon of dye to a pot and boiled it on the stove. Added salt and dish detergent. Let it stew for about 3 minutes, then washed it clean.



Here's a before and after:


What it was, what it became:


And a medium gray color match:


It's worth noting that the MMCC has said the flight suit is Gray with a purplish hue, where the 501st has said it is brown with blue. Sure, that's awesome. Here's what I did for my flight suit.

This is a convincing color match.


This is not:


But this is:


With my medium gray flight suit color matched to itself and vest, I added a small tint of brown to a dye bath. I boiled a bunch of water and used the kitchen sink to tint the flight suit and vest for just a few minutes.



While I had the pot cooking, I decided to dye my cummerbund a little darker as well. The part I had was a light brown, but Mando's looks to be more a medium or dark brown. This was only in the stew for a few moments, then removed.




The result of the dying and tinting was a color changing flight suit that appears gray in shadow, but brown in light. The exposure of the camera determines what color the flight suit will appear in a photo, but to my eye, is more dark gray/brown, but still changes before my eyes.



Here's a video:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJdQsDogThQ/

I will revisit this before everything is finished and apply some light weathering to the stitching and cuffs for flavor.
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Last edited by Sea_Marshall () on Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sea_Marshall ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Precious metals from JJ Industries: https://store.jjindustries.co.uk/master-mandalorian/



This will add some nice visual pop to the costume. I've ordered my belt from Delta Leather Works in Poland, http://deltaleatherworks.com/portfolio-item/the-mandalorian-set/ but am still waiting for delivery. Pretty sure it's tied up in customs. Bleh. Soon as this shows up, it's game on.

Anyway - the charges will fit in the leather straps and the belt is made with JJ Industries aluminum in mind. I will have to install a few parts when the belt arrives but that should be relatively easy.

For Boots and Gloves: Crow Props https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/din-d-jarin-combo-covers-and-gloves

I went with Crow props since it was a one stop shop for gloves and boot covers. COVERS, specifically. I already owned the proper boots, so all I needed was the look, and Crow Props offers this boot cover. So I had to install it with some shoe glue and velcro I had, to keep it cinched over night to dry.

I did the heel first, let dry over night, then toes over night, then sides over night. Trimmed off excess leather as necessary.







Huzzah. Not Bad.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Armor Prep!

Disclaimer: I ended up fiberglassing the helmet, gauntlets, right shin, chest, ab, and back -- which means I had to sand off my work and start over, but follows this process.

My Steps for chrome prep:
3D printed on PLA.
Fresh prints are sanded to 120 grit.
First heavy filler primer layer goes on. Dry over night.
Sand Primer layer to 220 grit. Fix flaws with bondo/filler.
Second heavy filler primer layer goes on. Dry over night.
Sand to 220 grit. Fix as necessary.
Sand to 400 grit. Wetsand to 800. Wetsand to 1000.
Black Gloss base coat. Dry over night.
--Choose your chrome method--

Fresh prints and Filler Layer:


Wet sand:


Black Gloss:


The surface must be pristine for a black gloss mirror finish. If you have it misted, it will show, if there is a sag/run in the paint, it will show, if there is a fingerprint, it will show. You get the idea. You will see everything. Make sure your surface is as clean and smooth as you want it. Once you do, you're ready to apply a chrome.

At this moment, I am using Graphite Powder to achieve the Beskar look. It's a messy process with dust/powder. Wear a particulate mask, don't inhale the powder. Wear disposable gloves to protect your hands. Lay down a cloth or paper you can dispose of after the project is done. Apply the graphite with a cotton ball or non-abrasive cloth. Buff the graphite to give it shine. I've washed the armor trying to get the graphite off, but it kept the metal look, so... hopefully when it gets wiped down and clear coated, it retains it's shine.



Here is a side by side of graphite on a shoulder vs black gloss (no clear coat)


Helmet:


Armor: You can see what is graphite, and what is black glossed.


There is a problem with clear coats dulling the reflective finish of chrome. I've encountered this several times. This time, however, I've searched for a clear coat that should protect the top coat without pulling too much reflection out. It's name: SprayMax 2k Clear Glamour. In theory, this will protect the finish. But to find out if it worked, you'll have to stick around. I'm overall pretty happy with the graphite finish, and it's easy to apply and buff. I haven't used it enough to know what's good and bad, but I do know it needs to be protected with a top coat if it's going to survive. It picks up finger prints, scratches, smudges, oil, you name it.

Good times. Pretty cool to look at. Put some brown pigment powder in the nooks for flavor.




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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's that Fiberglass step I mentioned. I decided to do this after I cracked the right shin along a print line. Figured if I was going to glass the leg, might as well do the helmet and everything else.

I didn't do the thighs, shoulders, or hips because 1) I plan to upgrade the items to Season 2 and 2) They don't move in a way that merits reinforcement.

For those interested in fiberglassing, wear protective eyewear, gloves, jacket, particulate respirator, the whole nine. Dress like you're about to enter a contamination zone. You don't want fiberglass fibers anywhere on or in you. It itches and its horrible, and just wear protective everything.

Once you're suited up, you need fiberglass resin (which usually comes with hardener) a cheap paint brush, and fiberglass (either mat or cloth). A moment to reflect on Fiberglass Cloth, instead of Mat. Mat is like, fibery-glassy strands that gets everywhere, but is an excellent and reliable bond. I didn't want to deal with a mess so I tried cloth, which was a bit easier to prep, but isn't as nice applied. The cloth is solid, but something about the mat that I prefer. Anyway. Fiberglassing 3D printed stuff.

Pre cut fiberglass to the shapes of your item so you can lay them out easily.
Sand the item you're glassing to 80 grit so the fibers have something to grab.
Mix resin and hardener according to the instructions on the can.
Apply a thin layer of resin mix onto the surface of your item, then lay the pre cut fiberglass strips, then use the brush to dab more resin into the fiberglass, saturating it to the surface. Layer the next bit of fiberglass and continue.





I decided to go with this after the fact because I don't like fiberglassing. In the end however, it's the way to go. The shin will be stronger, I don't have to worry about 3D prints cracking along print lines. I don't have to worry about structural integrity or warping. The helmet is solid. It was worth it. I'm glad it's over.

I didn't mind revisiting the armor. I needed to touch up some parts in the prints anyway that I passed off as weathering. You really couldn't see it, but I could.

With Beskar handled, I moved onto the other parts of the armor that needed actual color, and I found them at a local hardware store:

Smokey Beige for the hands
Midnight Blue for the hips
Dark Walnut for the right shin
Flat Red Primer for the shin greeblie and right thigh





I tore painter's tape to give it an irregular pattern for the fix.

For the right shin strip, instead of printing the strip that came with the file, I made a 3mm plastic strip to hopefully stand up to the stress of movement.



Here's the lot for the day:



Once paint was dry, I got to test fitting and a bit of weathering. The shin just clam shells on. I have a few nylon and velcro strips acting as a hinge to hold it's shape. Once it closes, it's held in place by a lower leather strap and an upper ammo strap. It's very solid. The fiberglass reinforcement is wonderful.



Bit of boot fitting:



Here's a look at the finished thigh:


Hips got a bit of dust in the grooves for color variation:


Gloves were stained with an orange wash:


And here's the lot:



Not too bad. I have a few things to scratch build, but I have a plan, for the most part. Might work, might not. But it's worth a shot.

Gauntlets: I get this all the time. How do you attach them? Here's what I'm doing... I've got two nylon/velcro strips at the front and back of the gauntlet that form a detachable hinge. On the other side, a powerful ceramic block magnet holds it together. It's strong. I've clamped myself and got a blood welt.




I had to heat the gauntlet and reshape it so the magnets would align, FYI. Be careful when reheating 3D prints because it can expand the plastic, causing it to crack, which may need repair.

I did a quick suit up with what I have on me. Still waiting on the belt, so I have a stand-in. The flight suit changes color as expected, so that's awesome. Beskar looks right. Feeling good.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kind of uncharted waters here for me. I started some scratch builds on the leather apron and the left shin.

I got some 3mm craft foam and gray upholstery vinyl.



I traced out the approximate look I wanted for the apron using easy numbers for measurements. Make sure the spacing between the parts is even or it will appear off. You can also guestimate the lengths and shapes based off of the other parts.



I cut out the shapes and glued them onto a precut vinyl shape of the apron. I then used thick super glue and some painters sticks to press and glue the vinyl to the foam pieces. I used the painters sticks to massage the vinyl in place, one section at a time, then moved to the next. I started in the middle and worked my way out, leaving enough slack to get the shapes to glue properly.





Once the basic piece is done drying, I trimmed off the excess and folded the bits over and glued them down. The actual part doesn't have any visible stitching, so, this was easy peasy. Cut little divits to take corners/curves.






Next challenge was the left shin. I used a piece for pleather from the Sky Costume kit for the part that needs to be pleated at the bottom of the shin. I have some spare bison leather that wrinkles nice, so I just cut a bit to wrap around my shin. Here's a dry fit for visual.



This seems like it would work, so I had the pleather stitched and then glued to a piece of leather to keep it wide, otherwise it tends to scrunch on itself, messing up the look.





For that middle strip, I had some treated leather laying around and I just cut a strip. I also had some 3mm sintra, so I cut a shape and glued it to the strip, folded the leather over and glued it.

The actual boot looked more red on that strip, so I spritzed it with the Flat Red primer to get it in the right color range.





Anyway. Fingers crossed. I'll see how it goes. This costume is awesome. I can't wait for my belt to show up. Really looking forward to applying to the clubs with this one.

I'm working on the blasters, mainly the pistol. I'm going to clear coat the graphite soon and hope to share positive results. If it fails, I intend to stand it off and purchase some alumaluster and see how that goes.

thanks for following along.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The adventure continues!

I'll get the small stuff out of the way:



I took a look at the grav charges from JJ Industries. This is the raw kit, resin black topper, and appears to be acrylic base and red acryclic dome. The top pops out exposing the magnet (which connects to the plate on the belt) and room for small LEDs or some contraption. All I did was wrap a bit of painters tape around the base to snug up the fit so it doesn't open easily. I may do lights, sound would be cool, and both are upgrade worthy one day.

This next bit is more my observations and reflection on what I just did and why it did what it did. It was my first time using this stuff, so perhaps my next go around will be something different or cut to Alumaluster like I probably could have. I could also sand this back and repaint, but I digress. I'm going to finish the build with the current progress. Huzzah. If you're interested, here's my success and failures, however you want to view them.

I enjoy the simplicity, low cost, and high reward of graphite powder.


With every chrome, clear coating and protecting the finish is the big question. The issue lies in the clear coat fogs or dulls the reflective finish and polish of the silver and turns it a dull gray. There are paints and finishes that are intended to work together. There are finishes that preserve colors better. There are lots of options. A little internet research led me to a video that compared graphite clear coats and the take away was Spraymax 2K clear coat was the winner. With no application tips or tricks, I was off to the races to figure it out and document for science.

I'm torn on the look, but follow along and I'll attempt to explain some pros and cons.



Right out of the gates, the graphite color got darker upon application of the clear coat, BUT, the high gloss reflection remained. This is a win. The mirror remained, but it got darker... For the record, I put down a pretty smooth heavy top coat where it was an even gloss across the surface. I started off further and it misted the clear coat, so I got closer for better coverage. Big take away was the gray remained in the finish (dulled from the high polish of base graphite), and so did the reflection.



It's still a close match and I reapplied a graphite layer on top to brighten it, but to very very little effect.



Click image for video here:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0gICY2Rl.mp4[/img]

Here's the best representation I could get of the helmet in the garage. It looks like the graphite was added into the top coat, like it mixed with the spray. I can see evidence of color blending, though subtle, so I wonder if it combined since it was powder and liquid:



Indirect and direct sunlight check:



Here's the rest after the clear coat had set for about 30 minutes:


And here's the same set, after the sun went down and just garage lighting:


It looks like it's going to work. I think the alumaluster route would be a brighter finish under the clear coat - and that 2k clear coat is great now that I've used it. $30 and once you crack it, its only good for 48 hours tops. But it did a great job, and I've used a few other clear coats in the past. I'm satisfied with the finish of this method and I'm happy that my graphite top coat is protected my a glossy finish and held it's mirror despite losing some luster.

Here's some theories I'd be interested in trying, or if you try, let me know.

I tried reapplying a graphite layer to the top clear coat, hoping the graphite would pull back some of its luster once I polished it. I did one coat and didn't notice a difference. I hear doing a graphite coat then another clear coat, then a graphite coat (buffed) will do a good job, but I'm stopping here. I like the reflection I'm getting and from my test, extra coats don't appear to yield the results I want. I'd just go alumaluster at that point, but this is an inexpensive alternative by maybe $80 and an airbrush kit.

The theory is this: Black gloss gives the mirror finish and graphite gives it that metal luster. I wonder if you clear coat the black gloss and protect it, then graphite on top to polish. You should keep that bright graphite finish with a protected base coat. If you need a touch up, a bit of graphite and buff. I found graphite, once applied, didn't really come off after buffing, so this sounds like a viable method to keep a high polish finish, but may require maintenance.

After all of my contemplating, however, I decided to protect the graphite layer. I had one can of fancy clear coat and if I was going to sand everything off, it was going to be after I confirmed graphite failed under the fancy clear coat. So far I appear to be aligned with things, but also feel it could be improved with a brighter finish, but I guess in the sun it would be like, KACHOW! I dunno. I'm still torn, but you be the judge.

If I go the black and gloss layer method, any ol' gloss clear will suffice since it's only protecting the black. Graphite would do the work regardless of clear.

...

if you try this, let me know. I'm letting the 2k clear coat cure for a week and will pick up the armor again this weekend for airbrushing details! whoop whoop.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happy day! Delta Leather Works belt is in hand! I've started installing the JJ Hardware. The cartridges were simple enough and fit like a glove. The belt slipped on easily as well. The belt sling on the shoulder needed a small leather pad glued to the belt to hold the part in place. It's setting. Grav charges and its holster needs assembly, then attachement, same for the rifle sling stuff. Getting there!





Home stretch on details this weekend. Can't wait to see it all together after some touch ups.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Closing in now.

I caved and decided to get an inexpensive airbrush for a commission I'm working on, so... I guess I can get alumaluster now... but will wait until desperate measures require it. This was a cool kit, came with three different airbrushes, which is nice because I have a tendency of killing them during extreme painting sessions. Hopefully this one sticks around heh.



I got into weathering the flight suit and threads. I used the black that came with the airbrush to subdue the soft part threads from white to a dirty black/gray. "weathering". Since I had the airbrush out I weathered just about everything but will upload images for reference when I get to laying it out. In the photos you can see a before and after of the thread color in each image. Despite the deliberate coloration on the thread, it still shows up white compared to the rest of the suit in photos.



Satisfied with the soft parts, I moved to the final pieces of the costume now that the belt is in hand. I loaded all the cartridges but found some weren't as snug so I revisited the parts with some black gaff tape wrapped around the center to snug up the grab on the belt loops. Revisited and weathered the parts afterward.

I've assembled the JJ Industries rifle plate and explosives holster. Both are attached to the belt now. I will revisit the detonator at a later time to install lights as an upgrade.



I found these online: https://www.amazon.com/GDEALER-Battery-Powered-Halloween-Christmas/dp/B01MDV1TYS/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=fairy+lights+blue&qid=1611336443&sr=8-6

The Fairy Lights in blue were a nice costume hack. The strings are wire with LEDs on the string. I twisted them up to form them like a dart, cut a bit of plastic to fit over the rocket port, marked the holes, drilled them out, and stuck the lights in. The battery pack is run off of lithium ion, included with the package, and the on/off switch is at the rear of the gauntlet. Nothing fancy, but a fun inexpensive detail added. I could probably pull them through a bit more to the front of the cone, but eh, good enough for now. Easy assemble and deconstruction for maintenance. I just ran a strip of tape over the rocket space, maybe upgrade to a plastic one day.




The cape is the *final piece. Photos of the complete costume and parts soon.

*I ordered a Pulse Rifle and Pistol kit from https://traywickdesigns.com/ waiting for those to ship, but I have the pistol on hand, which is good enough for the application. The rifle is optional in both MMCC and 501st.

Lots of minimum requirements here with upgrades planned for the future.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2021 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First round of photos!






I found a few things I need to tweak and improve on for another session.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right Gauntlet LED display video:

https://i.imgur.com/7UpfokJ.mp4


NOTE: I am submitting without the rifle, as optional with MMCC and 501st, so I have detached the sling magnet for the left shoulder.

Changed out the visor and took another set:





Indirect, Direct, and Indoor lighting for consideration (Graphite Powder finish)





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Last edited by Sea_Marshall () on Tue Feb 09, 2021 11:40 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Equipment photo dump for references:

Helmet:



Chest & Ab:


Shoulders:


Gauntlets:


Gloves:


Thighs:


Cummerbund & Tasset:


Hips:


Belt and Bandolier:




Flightsuit & Vest: (bleh I forgot the pants)



Holster:


Left Leg Gaiter:


Right Leg Gaiter:


Boots:


Blaster pistol:

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