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Lilac Handmaiden

 
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:56 pm    Post subject: Lilac Handmaiden Reply with quote

I've been admiring this costume for years, and when I found a perfectly textured kimono in Tokyo last fall, I couldn't help but want to finally dive into it.



On top of the great fabric find, I also happened across some great Battenburg (Dutch) lace collars to use for the appliques.



There will be dying involved to get this all a bit more lilac colored, but I'm excited to get working on it.

First, some references:

RLGS Gallery
Kay-Dee's amazing exhibit photos

This weekend I started working on patterning the hood and capelet to start figuring out exactly how many pieces of lace I'll need, beyond what I've already collected.





I'm pretty happy with the hood pattern, though the tie-off portion of the brim still needs a bit of work. There is still some work to be done on shaping especially the back of the capelet. I'll share the shape of the patterns here once those are done.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo, Lilac Handmaiden, Sache

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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at fabrics for the rest of the dress, there's a great vendor on etsy that has some really lovely shades of purple in silk velvet. Which one is the best may depend on how exactly the dye job on the kimono silk turns out.

Velvet:
Iris Purple
Boysenberry Purple
Iris Purple (Plush)
Purple

The shirt in the original, backed up by the comic illustration, looks to be a slinky, crinkled material, potentially a sheer over a base layer. It has a slightly metallic look to it. A few options I've found that could work are:

Purple and gold sweater knit
Bubble Organza Brocade (my favorite)
Black and purple wool knit
Slinky Knit
Metallic purple knit
Spandex Jersey

Some of the more matte fabrics could work if we had an organza layer over the top of them. I like the bubble organza brocade as it gets everything all in one place, but it's not knit, so I'd have to do some scrunching around the waist, especially.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo, Lilac Handmaiden, Sache

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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really can't wait to see you tackle the lilac handmaiden. Smile

I notice there's one notable difference between movie and comic version; movie has a skirt with shirt, while comic has a sleeveless dress in the reddish-purple plus sleeves and high neck in the darker purple.

I personally really like the boysenberry purple; it looks almost spot on compared to the references. Very Happy
And the bubble organza also looks good to me.

I think the movie probably have shaping seams on the side-top of the hood to get the very square shape of the front opening. The shaping seams are merely hidden under all that lace applique. Wink
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sashadechagny ()



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't wait to see you tackle this further! The hood is looking amazing!

Other possible velvet options I have also found while looking for a purple velvet for my own Final Senate dress are:

https://prismsilks.com/collections/velvet/products/mauve-silk-velvet

and

https://prismsilks.com/products/silk-velvet-fabric-amethyst-purple-by-the-yard-45

Just wanted to offer these here as I have also been swimming in seas of purple velvet lol... Laughing

Really looking forward to watching your build!


All the best,

Sasha.
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ohhh. Those are spectacular. I think I'm going to have to swatch a bunch of things once the silk is dyed so I can see which velvet plays best.
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Riyo Chuchi, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo, Lilac Handmaiden, Sache

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LaV317 (LaVonne)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't wait to see more progress photos! Amadalia
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naberrie ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are such beautiful costumes! The colours are just lovely, and your hood looks so perfect Jenna! Smile

Echoing everyone else, can’t wait to see the rest of this and updates! Amadalia
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Beth Mitchell (Naberrie)
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's not a lot to show for it, but I spent some time this weekend tweaking the mockup, figuring out the paneling, and transferring that all onto paper patterns. (My hope is to eventually get the patterns into some sort of printable format for sharing with you all.)



I also roughly laid out the lace on the capelet and hood to figure out if I needed any more, and I do. I ordered two lace remnants off of etsy to help fill into the first and second panels of the capelet.

Looking at the references, it seems that the bit of lace on the yoke is the same as what is on the right and left sides of the hood, and the shape is pretty similar to the lace collars I picked up in Japan. Plus, the leafy-vine shape that shows up in the center-most panels of the capelet also shows up over the top of the hood. The trick is finding something with enough repeats to cut apart.

There are a bunch of antique tablecloths decorated with Battenberg lace on etsy that could be cut apart and repurposed for their lace, if anyone else wants to do the same.

Hopefully my silk dye will arrive soon and I can start doing dye tests on the kimono silk.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo, Lilac Handmaiden, Sache

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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2020 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tweaking can take a long time, but it's an important step. Smile

Uh, color samples! That will be fun! Very Happy
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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Location: Silver Spring, MD
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dye sampling went great!



Having discovered that Dharma's fiber reactive dyes are by far the most effective type of dye I have found for kimono silk, that was an easy choice of supplier.

To figure out which color I would need, I took a photo of my basic pink fabric, and then took a screenshot of the blue range of colors from their shop. I put them both into photoshop and made the screenshot 50% transparent. The colors that looked closet to lilac when transparent over pink were Ice Blue and Sky Blue.

You'll see in my image, the ice blue dye got me much closer to what I was looking for. While the sky blue was okay with super fast dunking, getting an even dye job at that speed on a whole kimono isn't really feasible.

The capelet kimono fabric is a little more on the bluer side of lilac than the rest of the materials, which lean a bit pinker. So, I'm thinking about 3 minutes at half-strength would work to get it just outside of the pink color range. (The calculations on the right are for a full portion, as recommended by the packaging.)

I'll of course need to do another round of tests once I get the big pot going, to make sure my math was correct, but it's encouraging that I'm on the right track.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo, Lilac Handmaiden, Sache

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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2020 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the third from the left on the bottom row of dye samples. Very Happy That one looks spot on!
But in reality all the samples are very pretty. Wink
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