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R1 boot build thread
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 9:51 pm    Post subject: R1 boot build thread Reply with quote

My Scarif Marine got accepted with Swiss gaiters and chelsea boots but I wanted to upgrade them to something a little more accurate so I thought I'd document the process here.

First some research images.





The boots start as slip-on ankle boots, and look to have the spat and cuff added on. My guess is that the spat and cuff are sewn together with all the seams and then glued to the boot upper. Partly this is because it's much easier. You'd need a specialized sewing machine with a long arm to be able sew them together. Additionally, the actor who played Private Calfor has said that his shoe blew apart during filming. That's why in the Visual Guide, it looks like his right boot has a gaiter instead of this glued spat.

My plan is to do something similar. I'll make a pattern off my current boots, sew it together, and then glue it down to the boot upper. I may add some hand stitches just for extra strength, but those are the things I'll figure out as I go.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was super lucky to find these Rockport boots in my size at a yard sale. They already have the perfect height and look to them. There's a zipper on the inside, but there was on the real ones too, so I'm not worried.




I don't need to adapt these at all so I can go straight into the patterning process. To do that, I make a duct-tape pattern of the boot's shape I can draw on and then cut off. You can do this same process for patterning other props or body parts (not like that. I was thinking arms for armor!)




Make sure you get the cling-wrap everywhere or the tape will stick to the boot and could give you a type of weathering you don't want. Also, don't wrap the tape tight. Just lay it on top of the boot or your pattern will end up too small. You can see in the pictures there's still a lot of room between my leg and the boot cuff.

The next step is drawing the pattern you want. Since I already have a zipper on my boot I'm not going to sew one into the spat. I'm going to cut the spat just short of the boot zipper and this way it will function correctly. I marked the zipper with a hashed line so I knew where to cut the pattern when I took it off.




The rest of the lines are pretty rough but I got close enough to the general shape of the sides and the top of the foot. When I cut off the pattern, I have a nice rough sketch of the shapes I'll need to cut out of leather to make the spat. Now I can clean up the lines, cut this tape apart, and make clean patterns on cardstock to transfer to leather.



More to come!
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After cutting apart the pattern, I realized I'd underestimated the fit of the heel. It's too concave to make it out of one flat piece of leather, and I didn't lift the pattern up high enough above the sole.



Not a big deal though, that's why I make the patterns this way. I laid it down on the shoe again and drew where I needed to cut.



Now I have one more piece to attach, but I understand why the movie boots have that reinforcement up the back of the boot. I need to decide if I'm going to butt the pieces and add a reinforcement over both or else just overlap them. But now I'm ready to transfer the pattern to card stock and then cut out some scrap muslin to try the fit.

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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After cutting apart the pattern, I realized I'd underestimated the fit of the heel. It's too concave to make it out of one flat piece of leather, and I didn't lift the pattern up high enough above the sole.



Not a big deal though, that's why I make the patterns this way. I laid it down on the shoe again and drew where I needed to cut.



Now I have one more piece to attach, but I understand why the movie boots have that reinforcement up the back of the boot. I need to decide if I'm going to butt the pieces and add a reinforcement over both or else just overlap them. But now I'm ready to transfer the pattern to card stock and then cut out some scrap muslin to try the fit.

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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I traced the duct tape pieces on to card stock and did a test fit before I traced onto leather. Next is tracing everything and cutting it out.



I'll have four pieces per foot with a zipper up the inside and a reinforcement up the heel. Additionally is the cuff. You can see on a couple of the pieces where there will be extra seam allowance for layering the parts.

This is scrap leather a friend gave me from an old couch but it's just enough to get everything cut out. It's also relatively thin and flexible which will be good for stretching into place if the pattern isn't perfect. This will be an issue though on the cuff, especially on the right side with the greeblies. For those I'm going to layer this thin leather onto something thicker so it has some mass and doesn't droop.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut out all the pieces and marked where I would apply glue. I'm using contact cement which needs to be applied on each side and left to partly cure before adhering the pieces. I cut off the end of a tongue depressor to use as an applicator so I can be more accurate.



Since the parts overlap instead of join like a fabric seam, some pieces need glue on the front and some on the back. For those that need glue on the front, I traced the pattern and marked where I would apply glue.



The trick with attaching things with contact cement is that you can't take it apart once they stick. This is more difficult on a project like this since the complex curves don't line up when they're flat. So I start at what will be the top of the boot, then slowly press them together so my marks all line up.




I lined up everything starting at the top when I glued them together. Even though the top is going to be hidden by the cuff, I know that I'll need to trim the bottom to fit the boot a bit. Pattern making like this isn't an exact science, so I cut on the long side knowing I could cut back but not add. This is also why I didn't cut anything back from the zipper. Here are the spats clamped on to the boots and ready for me to mark what needs to be cut off.



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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut rectangles for the cuffs longer than I thought I needed, knowing that I could always trim it back. It's a good thing I did, because it came out just about perfect with a bit of overlap. Mine are 5x15 inches. I'm using the same greeblies I had on my gaiters, which are made of 3/8 inch galvanized pipe and endcap.



Because the greeblies are metal, I'm worried about the thinness of the leather I'm using. So I glued the cuff pieces onto some scrap vegtan leather I had. I didn't want to cut long pieces out of a new hide, and I didn't have any scrap large enough, so I pieced it together so there's no straight seam where the leather will bend strangely.



I'm debating on whether I should add the tab and "buckle" on the top of the cuff. They're not on every boot, and they're really hard to see. The best references I've been able to find are on Corporal Rostok in the Visual guide and a couple of movie stills.



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PArmstr (Patricia Armstrong-Krauss)
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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not add the buckle to the left cuff. Or only add if I had a lightweight plastic one. I think the weight would be a problem for the thin leather.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you saying only put the buckle on one cuff? Or not at all? I have some pretty lightweight parts in mind.
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PArmstr (Patricia Armstrong-Krauss)
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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Niall wrote:
Are you saying only put the buckle on one cuff? Or not at all? I have some pretty lightweight parts in mind.


I said that I would not add the buckle to the left cuff. It can only be seen on some of the boots. I was also thinking that you wanted to use a metal buckle of some sort and was worried about the weight of the item and the thickness of your leather.

If you choose the add a buckle out of a light material the buckle only goes on the left cuff. The right cuff does not have a buckle it only has the double greeblie in the loops.


Edit:
In the reference photos, you can see that Private Call for has a buckle at the end of his left boot cuff. The right boot cuff has the double greeblie in the loops.



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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben this is looking really great! Would you do me a favor and poke me on fb when you add the next steps? I would love to link your process in a master guide with some of the various options for these. The cuff method Patricia used is another one I want to include, and the GSC XO also has been working on these. (We see them in some of the officer costumes as well.)
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 5:21 pm    Post subject: Kudos! Reply with quote

This is an amazing guide. Quite informative. Looking forward to more such pieces.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I trimmed the bottom of the spats to fit the boot better, as well as the seams where they'll sit against the zipper. The next step is sewing.

I have a Bernina sewing machine which is plenty heavy to go through two layers of this leather with heavy needles like these. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/leather-sewing-machine-needle


I sewed along each seam to reinforce the glue and also along each edge. This will make it look like I've sewn the spats onto the boot even though I'm just going to glue it.

I also added additional rows of stitching along the bottom edge. The real boots have many more seams, but I think this is sufficient to get the look right.




I still need to sew the cuffs once the "buckle" piece arrives for the left side, and also sew the loops for the cylinders on the right side.
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Niall ()
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was worried about the heavy steel pipes I've been using for greeblies. They work fine with the stiff Swiss gaiters I'm currently wearing, but I think the new cuffs will be too flexible to work well, especially since they'll be partially unattached to let me wrap them around my ankle. Luckily I have a friend with a 3D printer who made me new cylinders using the thingiverse file https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4152844



As is typical, the printing needs sanding before I can paint them, but at least I have the accurate pieces so I can measure more leather for the loops.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2020 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The topstitching looks fabulous!
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