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TROS:General Leia Organa Costume Discussion/Reference Thread
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="tenebris"]Can we reference everything with images as we go?[/quote]

Yes, I said I would.
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="tenebris"]Can we reference everything with images as we go?[/quote]

To clarify... I'll put up reference photos and details in my WIP. This is a discussion thread.
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont mean for your build, if you are collating details for the standard,Everything need a reference, like each piece. The last list you put up is that all from screen shots?
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="tenebris"]I dont mean for your build, if you are collating details for the standard,Everything need a reference, like each piece. The last list you put up is that all from screen shots?[/quote]

I am explaining all this in detail w pics as well in my WIP. I was asked to do that rather than in this discussion thread. There’s a link to my WIP above. I have also shared my photos on a Royal and Senatorial google list.
I have had a private viewing of the costume, but I also have screen grabs from the DVD I may use.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2020 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

doinit4carrie wrote:
tenebris wrote:
I dont mean for your build, if you are collating details for the standard,Everything need a reference, like each piece. The last list you put up is that all from screen shots?


I am explaining all this in detail w pics as well in my WIP. I was asked to do that rather than in this discussion thread. There’s a link to my WIP above. I have also shared my photos on a Royal and Senatorial google list.
I have had a private viewing of the costume, but I also have screen grabs from the DVD I may use.



Amy, I think you may have misunderstood. This thread is for the costume in general for us all to share references and discuss what we see. Once we have enough information here to start discussing a costume standard, we will start that thread in the standard development section.

The standard discussion will need to have references for each individual part. Standards need to be written and discussed on the forum and need to follow the format that the LMO would like us to use. Information on the format and process can be found here:http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=96552

Your build thread is for your personal build. That's where you share what you are doing for your personal costume, ask for input, share techniques you used for your personal build etc. There may be some overlap, but this is the thread for references. Your build thread should go here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=867
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello ladies,
Sorry for my mixup on how and where to post what in regards to this new costume. It's been confusing.
Admin will move my WIP from Royal/Senatorial>Leia to Rebel Commanders>Sequal Trilogy.
I have been asked to post in this thread anything from my WIP considered general info, not specific to my build. I sometimes have trouble posting the individual photos, so I will provide a link to a photo album as well.
The reference photos and notes are from my private viewing of the costume at ILM. I am also using screen grabs from the DVD.
Here's the album link:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/p52474

GENERAL LEIA - Rise of Skywalker (Original) costume notes -
Observations on examining costume at ILM/LFL
These are the details of each costume piece as I observed it. Where there is an * - notes are incomplete, not yet determined, awaiting confirmation.

BELT:
- Two, 1.5-2" runs joined by brown leather at buckle.
- Leather is visible in openings at front of buckle.
- 1st metal link has end of brown leather wrapped over and sewn shut on end closest to buckle. Then connects with other metal links.
* Links look like bendable about 1-2mm gauge. Could be metal loops, but have not found this size yet.
- Link is rectangular. It is 3/8" x 1.5-2"
- Links are dull steel color and are worn/chipped on top and bottom. Worn areas are white.
* Links are held together by what looks like brass beads or tubing or possibly sheeting. (I am working on this with a couple of jeweler resources.)
- The buckle is slightly larger than TFA buckle and slight different shape. It is more symmetrical on the top and bottom. It also has texturing that looks like fine lines or a cheesecloth pattern. (I am working with an artist on creating a 3D printed version.)



PANTS:
- Gabardine type weave. (I found a very nice poly/cotton which is soft and comfortable and drapes well.)
- Burgundy/Wine (toward brown), Dark, (Darker than the blouse.)
- Wide-legged, lounge/pajama-style pants.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/8qrzhEK.jpg?1[/img]

BLOUSE:
- Linen. Light burgundy/wine, toward red.
- Very high cowl draping across bottom of the neck.
- Sleeves have dropped shoulders. Loose.
- Back of sleeves have a couple of tucks at the back just above the elbow,
- Tunic length. Bottom is below crotch.




CLOAK:
* Original costume uses a window treatment/home decor fabric with thick upholstery type lining.
(I am working on getting info about the original source of the cloak material, but it has not been easy. I am also consulting with a fashion designer friend and someone at Mood Fabrics about the cloak material and possibly having it reproduced.)
- The material is silk.Possibly silk twill. Up close it has a very slight herringbone pattern.
* It appears to be pin-tucked, but not in any traditional pattern. The pattern are rectangles of 3/8" x 1.25" each. It may just have gridline stitching.
- Front of cloak has one princess seam on each side (L,R) going over the shoulder at neckline, to the top of the collar. Ending at top of shoulder/back. No pleats. Seam starts about 2.5 - 3" from edge of opening (center), at the neckline, and ends about 5" from the edge.
- There is one side seam, each side, directly under the armpit. A 2" wide pleat is formed starting at the hip.
- There is an additional side seam, each side, starting at the back edge of armpit, no pleats.
- The back of cloak has three seams.
- The center back seam has a very slight pleat at the very top.
- The center side seams are 2.5-3" from the center seam.
- NOTE: all distances between seams increase in width as they go to the bottom of the cloak. Cloak flares very slightly at the hip to increasing width to the bottom.
- Tops of shoulders are rectangular, thick/stiff. There are fitted shoulder padding, wrapped in the outer silk material, under the shoulder top piece.
- The collar of the cloak is very stiff. It is 3.5 - 4" high. It has three visible seams. The princess seam at front/each side (two), center back (three).










BOOTS:
- Dark brown with 1.5 - 2" heel. Pant legs length should cover over the top and instep of boots. No buckles, etc which are visible.
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed the pants photo didn't go through on my last post. Trying here:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/8qrzhEK.jpg?1[/img]
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a better pants photo in the album. I couldn't get it to post here.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2020 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZOMG. Amy!!! These are AMAZING!!! Thank you so much for sharing!!
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kristina! I was as thorough as I could be. I’m into details.
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seconded, thats great amy Smile
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello ladies,
It's time to get serious about choosing a fabric for the cloak! The original material is a decorator/home fabric that just does not exist anywhere. I have looked across the globe, asked resources at ILM and LFL and reached out to designers and costumers. I feel like this is really hanging me up, and all of us who want to make this costume. So we need to decide what will serve as a substitute.
The way I see it and understand from all costume standards is that it should closely resemble what is seen on screen and would be identifiable at a troop by the general public. With that in mind, I have done a lot of research looking through about 20 + different online fabric sources. (I'm exhausted!)
The following are fabric suggestions I have found to be the closest possible alternatives for recreating the cloak. Please have a look and choose the fabrics you think are best. Give them a #1,2,3, etc. Repost the link to that fabric in your reply along with your rating. Then we can all look at it together and hopefully come to a consensus. Thanks for your help with this!

Film/TV fabric resources: https://www.theacme.com/?name=Fabrics-Textiles-Specialty&Scategory=7092
Other sources: Britex, Mood, Fashion Fabrics Club (Rose City Textiles redirect)

1st choices:

Quilted Rayon/Poly knit - not the right color, but the quilt pattern is so close to the actual costume.
https://www.moodfabrics.com/black-quilted-rayon-knit-with-filler-and-polyester-knit-backing-325256

Poly woven/metallic - This one is my favorite. It doesn't have any pattern or stitching like the actual costume, but the color is very close and the bronze gives it an interesting look. Sort of simulates the look of the actual cloak.
https://www.moodfabrics.com/deep-bronze-metallic-polyester-woven-302896

Wool twill - This one is very close to the color seen in most shots. It could possibly be used as-is or add stitching across the fabric to create the same pattern on the actual cloak. If this was done to this fabric, it may be the closest to the actual costume.
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p262378_76835

Knit Jersey- though it's a diamond pattern, it's close enough in size of pattern to pass. The color is a little light, but I think it would pass.
https://www.amazon.com/Fabric-Knit-Neotrims-Material-Baby-Photography/dp/B01J3UN7CU

Bedding - I really like these possibilities. If you use a bedspread, the material is already lined! Plus some of the patterns and greys are very close to the actual costume. There is one that is eggplant/plum, but I think it's too light in color.
https://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/category/collections.jsp?categoryId=cat1476019

2nd choices:

Wool/ herringbone, chevron - This one is interesting. It sort of resembles the Raddis bridge cloak material. If I used this one, I'd leave as is. The color is mostly black, but it's got enough grey specks to be usable. Maybe?
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p273036_81307-blackstone-textured-boucle-jacketing

3rd choices:

Quilted poly - Getting closer in color. Could be used as is? OR need to sew lines across fabric to create the same look of the rectangular pattern on the actual costume.
https://www.mapetitemercerie.com/en/quilting-fabric/79258-quilted-fabric-navy-blue-linea-x-10cm.html

georgette (crepe) - not the right pattern or color at all, but I thought it was interesting and could maybe pass?
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p277985_82353-metallic-black-deco-pleat-georgette

Wool blends, herringbone, chevron - these are all grey. Not the color of the actual costume, but in most scenes the cloak seems to be in the grey color range.
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p269888_70272

https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p210879_dfw50365

https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p224948_dfw50408

Fleece - this is brown/grey. Not exactly right (at all), but maybe ?
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p267623_dfw10846

Poly/cotton - this is a much lighter color than the actual costume or even as it is seen in most shots, but maybe ok?
https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p218621_dfw50313

Of course all of these fabrics will need interfacing and lining. That can be discussed once we settle on an outer fabric.
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's awesome research!

The problem with fabric is you cant specify one fabric for the standards even if you know the screen accurate one. (Can we say like this one? or give it as an example?) We have to give a shade range according to the refs for tricky colours, and describe the type of fabric, texture, pattern.

For sourcing for peoples costumes and to help them its always good to choose a few......it looks like most fabrics are going to need dying or quilting?? Do we think quilting some of the better colour options would work?
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2020 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="tenebris"]That's awesome research!

The problem with fabric is you cant specify one fabric for the standards even if you know the screen accurate one. (Can we say like this one? or give it as an example?) We have to give a shade range according to the refs for tricky colours, and describe the type of fabric, texture, pattern.

For sourcing for peoples costumes and to help them its always good to choose a few......it looks like most fabrics are going to need dying or quilting?? Do we think quilting some of the better colour options would work?[/quote]

Definitely! That’s what I meant. Sorry I didn’t put it right. These are the types of colors, fabrics I think are workable. I think it would be helpful if we all looked at them and made a decision on the type we can use. Ie - quilted pattern fabric or one we basically topstitch to simulate quilting.
OR would it be acceptable to have it made out if a fabric with a chevron/ herringbone pattern? Because that is more readily available to everyone.
Then color... it seems grey is more readily available. But if someone can find a brownish purple like the original, that would be ideal.
Yes, we’ll write the CRl to reflect choice, availability, but we still need a consensus on we think is the best color, etc. what colors, fabric look do you think looks good? Thanks!
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello ladies,

I've made some more progress on this costume. I will be starting the blouse soon and am currently working on the belt.

Please head on over to my WIP link for specifics:

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1122465#1122465

MTFBWY
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