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New to RL. First Costume. Generic Jedi - WIP Log
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Milori T'Bell ()
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thrak Farelle wrote:
Milori, do you have a link where I can buy those hooks? Those are some serious hardware.


They should be available at a fabrics store. They're the hooks that (at least in the netherlands) are attached on fancy pants along with the button.
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Thrak Farelle ()



Joined: 16 Aug 2019
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Location: Marysville, Washington
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:07 am    Post subject: Outer Tunic Pattern Reply with quote

Slow goings now that school is back in session. Since I'm no good at making my own patterns and the Simplicity 4450 patter is discontinued, I'm using Simplicity 5840 and will be using EeanLedgor's tutorials to modify the pattern where needed. Anyone else ever use Simplicity 5840 as a starting point for their tunics?



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Dangams (David)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the the 5840 as the basis for my tunics, also using EeanLedgor's modifications. It's fairly straightforward, just keep an eye on your measurements, especially the waist width and waistline height, and very especially the sleeve length. I forgot to take into account the additional length required by the shoulder tucks the first time I made mine and ended up having to make an entire new set of sleeves.

Good luck!
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Thrak Farelle ()



Joined: 16 Aug 2019
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Location: Marysville, Washington
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for those tips, David. I had intended to construct the inner tunic as a medium and the outer tunic as a large, but I'm finding that even with seam allowance, a large is going to fit me like a garbage bag. Simplicity 5840 is gigantic on me. I'm going to have to cut everything down to a medium and make the inner tunic a small (maybe a medium, depending on how the layers fit).
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Thrak Farelle ()



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 5:03 am    Post subject: Minor Setback Reply with quote

Minor setback. After spending an hour wandering around looking for my sleeve pattern, I finally decided to look in the trash to see if I accidentally threw it away. Someone, indeed, had thrown it away... AFTER THE DOG ATE MOST OF IT! Luckily, Jo-Ann had a few patterns left in stock and they were on $5 sale.

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Milori T'Bell ()
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temple master, my dog ate my robes
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Thrak Farelle ()



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, after cutting and arranging the pieces to Simplicity 5840, ai realize that the sleeve width is not nearly long enough. They seem really skinny. I had hoped to follow the Simplicity pattern to make attaching the sleeves easier. It may be time to follow EeanLedgor's tutorial a little more literally.

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Thrak Farelle ()



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:43 am    Post subject: Muslin Mock-up nearly complete Reply with quote

My first muslin mock-up is nearly complete. Even after reducing the pattern from a medium to a small, there still seems to be a lot of fabric in the torso. The sleeves are not hemmed, and after sewing the shoulder tucks, I'm going to need to add more length to the sleeves to keep the required sleeve length. I would like to shorten the skirt a little, but maintain coverage as required by the costume standards.

Looking at screen used costumes, the main problem I'm seeing in my pattern is the sleeve width. The sleeves don't seem as big as they should. Simplicity 5840 sleeve width is 19 1/4" at the wrist while EeanLedgor's tutorial has a sleeve width of 25 1/4". That is obviously a huge difference.

Questions:
How baggy should the OT be in the torso? I'm considering reducing my pattern to an extra small which would take 2" off my back waist seam.

How much should I add to fill out the sleeves? I was considering adding 3".

How does the tabard width look with this tunic? Right now, they are 5" that widen to 6" as the shoulder seam.



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Milori T'Bell ()
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sleeves are good, if they stay the same length after making them neat
I'd loose the widening of the tabbards, just keep them one width
Lengthen the tabbards to go past the tunic
Baggyness looks good to me as well

Only real change I'd suggest is having the skirt just a little longer at the sides to make it look less rounded when wearing it
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Grimwalker (Derrick Billings)
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to disagree with Milori. The sleeves need to come to your knuckles with your arms down, and since you haven’t even hemmed the sleeves they’re already too short. You’re correct, that you’re going to have to either attach an extended cuff or extend your measurements. I recommend going extra-long in the prototyping stages, as you can hem/trim to have it land right where you want.

Note the depth of the sleeve hem on Obi-Wan, here:

Your tabards are fine to widen at the shoulder, but they shouldn’t overhang your shoulder tucks on your tunic. They must be as long or longer than your tunic skirt, which itself needs to be long enough to fully cover your crotch and buttocks.

I prefer a bit of a tailored tunic, as any excess bagginess will be gathered beneath the obi and you’ll have to deal with bunching issues. My first cut of this tunic was way too baggy in the waist, so I removed material from the side seams and took a dart out of the center back, resulting in a visible seam. (Not a problem for Generic Jedi but I will have to get out in front of it when I go to make Obi-Wan on this template.)



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Thrak Farelle ()



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2019 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback. I'm aware that my sleeve length is way to short. I was mostly concerned about the sleeve circumference (can't think of a better word to use). To me the tutorial makes a sleeve that is much fuller than the screen used costume, but Simplicity 5840 makes a sleeve that seems less full than the screen used costume.

I'm not too concerned with the OT skirt and tabard lengths since I'll be fixing those later.
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Thrak Farelle ()



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 8:46 am    Post subject: Fully Lined Outer Tunic Reply with quote

It's been awhile since I've posted. I'm now working on outer tunic version 3. The first two attempts were really just me trying to learn the sewing machine and figuring out how to take and pattern my measurements. While making those two, I've decided I wanted a tunic that was fully lined so the visible seams wouldn't look so unfinished on the inside of the garment.

Lots of cutting and labeling


Main outer tunic and lining sewn together


Pinning the sleeve lining to the tunic lining. This is the first time I've ever attached a lined sleeve to a lined tunic. The pattern I created did not really intend for the sleeves to be attached in this manner so the seams in the armpits are not as "professional" looking as I would like.


Muslin tunic completed. Some issues I need to correct on my pattern.
- The skirt length still seems to short. I'm a short guy, so I the skirt to be as short as the Rebel Legion will allow. I've got about an inch and a half before the skirt hits my fingertips.
- The tunic collar band is only an inch and a half and I read on the costume standards it needs to be 2 inches.
- Tabards need to be lengthened 2 - 3 inches to fall beyond the hem of the skirt.




EDIT: I changed my last two photos so the camera angle would better show where the OT hemline is.

If anyone sees any issues I missed with the tunic, please let me know. Thanks!


Last edited by Thrak Farelle () on Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:04 am; edited 2 times in total
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Goshivan ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest you post a more straight on picture so we can see the true length of your tunic. From the angle you have it looks like it may be a bit to short if it does not cover the private parts well enough. Sometimes pics can be misleading from certain angles. The rest looks really nice!!
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Thrak Farelle ()



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Location: Marysville, Washington
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Goshivan.
I took your advice and uploaded some better photos with a slightly different camera angle. Looking at these new photos, I'm still convinced I need to add between 1 to 2 inches to the hem just for a little more coverage. Right now it looks like the hem is bare minimum for length. I would hate to be "dress-coded" for having an outer tunic that was showing too much.
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Grimwalker (Derrick Billings)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could definitely give a couple more inches to the skirt If you felt like it and it would look pretty good. Then again we've been binging Clone Wars and all of them are knee length for that style of OT, so that's just what's in my brain right now--you can go longer than your fingertips on the OT. And yep, keep the tabard length to keep pace.

Obi looks good.

Consider adding some stirrups to your pants to keep them neatly tucked into your boots, you'll be glad you did.
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