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Empathy's TLJ officer jacket melton (vertical welt version)

 
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:20 am    Post subject: Empathy's TLJ officer jacket melton (vertical welt version) Reply with quote

Ok so I've got the fabric and the boots are on their way....so I'm going to slowly start patterning this. I butchered the TFA fleet officer standard, as some bits are the same and there is no standard for this yet. My rambly additions are in brackets, so everyone can see what I'm working to. There are quite a few variations, but I'm doing the brown/minky jacket one.

Quick not about the VD, is that the colour's can be somewhat dark/off to the screen colours. I'll pop up some more refs later.







1. Jacket


(- brown/taupe/mink jacket. Fabric with a fulled/brushed texture is preferred. )(twill weave wool)

-Wrap front closing left over right with no visible closures. Left flap has a curved edge per reference photos.

-Belt is threaded through a slit in the left flap, and the buckle/closure is hidden.

(-Left side of jacket front features a princess seam , from the shoulder across the bust to the hem. On this seam approx 5 inches down is a vertical welt pocket which is aprox 5-6inches long)

(- Right side has a waist dart. )

(-shoulder has double seam detail as per ref photo's)

-Jacket back is fitted to the waist through the side seams. The bottom flares slightly.

(-Jacket has a center back seam. with two back shaping seams.)

( -overlapping shaped mandarin/shawl collar approx 6cm high ???, 3 rows of piping detail starting at top edge aprox 1cm each)

(-Sleeves have 2 seams)

2. Trousers:
-Dark brown- chocolate brown in a bottom-weight twill or similar fabric or a pant weight gaberdine. No denim.

-Pants should have a high waist and fly front.

-Worn with the pant leg tucked into boots. Pant legs should be fitted enough to tuck without excessive blousing.


4. Belt:
brown to dark brown leather belt, 2 to 2.5 inches (5 to 7 cm) wide.

(-Weathered, silver toned, solid rectangular buckle with rounded corners. Buckle should be the same width as the belt.)

-No visible rivets.

5. Boots:

– Calf high black or brown boot, featuring a Velcro strap at the top and a vertical zipper on the inside. Boots have a flat sole. (Similar to the PoZu Well 2 Boot).


OPTIONAL ITEMS
1. Screen accurate Resistance rank badge, any branch any rank.

2. gun

3. holster
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Last edited by tenebris (empathy) on Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:44 am; edited 1 time in total
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite a few people have said they want to this one, so I'm looking for patterns that can be converted for both ladies and gents (sewing peoples I'm wondering if a vintage 60's style jacket for gents might be an easier one to start with than the civil war Mccalls 4547 that people seem to base most jackets off).......If we find a base pattern, we can talk through the conversion hopefully more people will have the confidence to give it a try.


So I've done the first mock, with all the seam lines approx in place from the refs. Those back shaping seams need to come up a little higher and i think add a tiny bit more onto the 'epaulet' bit on the shoulder. This section could be patterned as a separate piece, but I've opted to integrate it and press the seam over slightly and top-stitch........It does making pattern a bit more complicated and you could just stitch them over the top I think... Also need to drape the collar.....possibly tinker with the front panel.




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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boots from crowprops........based on the po-zu 'Poe' boots

If I'm honest there are a few things that niggle me, there should be a space between the top of the zip and the strap and I think they are a tad too tall, although the on screen do seem to vary in height slightly. Also The velcro strap end piece needs to be longer and the 'u' shape starts a tad too low...... Still clearable though.

In short they are accurate copies of the Po-zu Poe boot, but the Po-zu boots are not the screen worn ones. Despite everyone thinking they are. If you want them SA you would need to have them made and currently no one is offering that.







Couple more refs..........need to bring that back shaping seam up and in a bit, also better look at the holster.





(this one is also approvable for the TFA melton jacket officer and the TLJ melton jacket officer).

Disclaimer.......I is not a leather guru, I just blunder my way through. But here's how I did it.

I started with a block paper pattern and tinkered till it was a bout right, then put it onto card, made any adjustments and traced off onto the leather. I used veg tan leather (this one is a little thick, but I wanted to use it up). I scored the inside of each line to be folded and wet the leather to mold it round the gun, when it was almost dry, I unfolded bits then I used a leather fork to create the stitching holes, lined up the holes and stitched with waxed thread. I glued the front section with eco leather glue, once it was dry I used a damp sponge with eco flo water based leather dye and rubbed it in......It needs one more layer I reckon and some carnuba wax to seal it.






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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark kindly let me have his Glie 44 when he upgraded, but I'm wondering if I need to source a different one. As the back edge looks more defined? I've just looked it up and its a Glie 44D for TLJ (visual dictionary)



So the guns are slightly different for each film
This is the comparision, top is TLJ, bottom is TFA (thanks to Geoff for his help with these).



Currently there isnt a really good 44D, so 44 are being cleared without a problem.
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Tinkering with the fit and collar........got the collar perfect, but it triggers the fainting so moving it out a bit. There is variation in the depth of the collars on different officers. Going to make the closure edge slightly higher and round out.

From a construction point of view, I'm going to calico line one edge of the collar so I can put the piping in and it not show on the lining side......I may have to mock this to check if i can do it full with SA or not due to the bulk in the seam.

The center front edge will pull out slightly once the belt is on.....but may need a slight sloping under the beltline.

The vertical double welt (jetted) pocket in the seam was fun.....its a bit wonky as I didn't measure accurately, it was more for placement. It really need to be longer, but all the women who wear this are small busted...so for me its going right over the bust seam which is going to cause pulling and fit issues so it needs to be slightly higher and slight smaller.

Shoulder look to be quite padded, so Ill put pads and a sleeve head in, I'm struggling with balancing the interfacing with the movement I've engineered into the pattern.....but I'm getting there.






Just mocking the lining...... wanted to check it all lines up. Then real fabric (I hates real fabric).


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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So its been a while since I did a full tailored jacket in coat weight wool.........I always pick nightmare fabrics, I'm glad this one has sold out as it was a bit of a nightmare. It was slightly coated/finished and was water spotting even with with a light steam, so I hand washed it. So its thicker than I would have liked, but a fabric that spots when water touches it, is no good for trooping.

Fabric needs to be pre treated in the same way you are going to clean it, Ie washed........Lots of wool fabric is dry clean only and the American blogs suggested taking it to the dry cleaners to be steamed. No where near me will do this, you can steam shrink wool or put it in the drier with a damp towel.

Some people just don't do it, then just dry clean the garment.

https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/preshrinking-learn-what-why-when-and-how


You also need to use a directional nap layout, if your fabric has a nap and be careful how you press it. Nap fabric usually needs gentle steaming and finger pressing or pressing with a clapper for wool. AlWAYS test how your fabric reacts to pressing and steaming on scraps.

https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/working-with-nap-and-pile

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2011/03/16/guide-to-press-cloths

Tailors clappers:
https://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/search.php


Interling a garment:

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2009/01/24/understanding-underlining

https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/introduction-to-interlining/

The way I make clothes for myself is a bit different to the norm, I've had to engineer more movement, more in the back, built in sleeve gussets etc. So there are parts of my jacket I've not fully interfaced or interlined to keep that movement......My back stay is cut on the bias. My shoulders are slightly wider and there is slightly more in the front shoulder and bust This is because without stretching my shoulder joints and being able to move and relocated my joints when I dislocate I will end up in a lot of pain and with muscular injury. Collar also has to sit slightly away from my neck or it triggers fainting......yeay!

The vertical welt pocket was a pain across the bust, so many seams to grade, I think i will only use pocketing instead of wool on the pocket lining next time....the pocket was important as its for my emergency freddo! Smile



I may remake this, I've already found a fabric I think will be a good source that won't sell out. I'm waiting on a few more samples before I post just to be sure......I'll also look at patterns for conversion.





Ugh app pictures....sorry about my face.

I need to app in the holster as un upgrade.






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Nazgor Eng ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Tenebris,

Thanks for your build posts.

I am actually following them as I am doing an Ackbar TLJ build too.

Quick question though - you mentioned the Pozu boots are kinda high?

I had a pair made here (in Manila) and am concerned that maybe they are too high too?

They are about the same height of my Pilot Boots (calf high) and am wondering if these are tall too? Or do you think these are okay and can be approved?








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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not a judge, but from a detachment point of view, I think they meet the CRL. The po zu are only a touch tall, I was only comparing them to the screen used.......which are not actually the pozu, the pozu are just replicas.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 9:55 am    Post subject: Thanks! Reply with quote

Cool!

Noted. Thanks for your reply.
Hope I can get it all together soon.

Cheers and MTFBWY!

- Dennis
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Po-Zu boots (the actual ones) were worn in TFA. You may be right about TLJ, however.

The "Star Wars" boots that Po-Zu sold until a bit ago (and I think I heard a limited re-run is in the works?) are not 100% identical to the original Well 2 boots that were worn in TFA. They're VERY close, though.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far away are we to get this the TLJ Officers costume standards on the website? I’m putting one of these costumes together right now.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Draeden Wren wrote:
How far away are we to get this the TLJ Officers costume standards on the website? I’m putting one of these costumes together right now.


Considering none of the standards that have been written in the last year are up yet, it will be a while. I believe they are waiting until the new forum system is ready to go.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nazgor Eng wrote:
Hi Tenebris,

Thanks for your build posts.

I am actually following them as I am doing an Ackbar TLJ build too.

Quick question though - you mentioned the Pozu boots are kinda high?

I had a pair made here (in Manila) and am concerned that maybe they are too high too?

They are about the same height of my Pilot Boots (calf high) and am wondering if these are tall too? Or do you think these are okay and can be approved?









I think these boots are fine.
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