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Hoth Trench Trooper WIP
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 5:57 am    Post subject: Hoth Trench Trooper WIP Reply with quote

Hello all,
I am attempting to make a Hoth Trench Trooper costume for the 40th anniversary of ESB. Hopefully in time for Celebration 2020.
My action plan:
-Pants (required)
-Vest (required) w/ rank badge (formal)
-Gaiters(required)
-Jacket (required)
-Gloves w/ comm device (required)
-Belt w/buckle (required)
-Hat /soft helmet (required) w/com device (formal)
-Goggles (required)
-scarf (formal)
-Pack (formal)
-Hoth Rifle A-280 (formal)
The order may change a bit due to availability of materials.


Last edited by Arson_Dex (Lawrence) on Tue Oct 15, 2019 4:50 pm; edited 5 times in total
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 5:25 am    Post subject: Pants Reply with quote

I acquired fabric for the Hoth Trench Trooper pants today. The CRL calls for tan colored pants with quilted/padded knees.

Muslin seems to be the proper fabric and I was able to get some for a good price. I purchased some unbleached for the pants and bleached for the vest and jacket.

I also found some pre-quilted fabric in a beige/tan color that I can use for the knees.
I used a pair of scrub pants as a template for the pants.

I traced the pants onto tissue paper and drew in an inch seam allowance.


I cut the pattern out, 2 each side with right sides in.


I then pinned the sides together. Since I am not an incredibly talented sewer I sketched the seam so I had a guide to follow while sewing.

I am not confident about the color match of the unbleached muslin and quilted fabric so I will cut a second pair using the bleached white muslin and some white quilted fabric. I'll then try and dye the white pants using tan RIT dye.
Next up sewing.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep going! Smile
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got to sewing the pants pieces. As mentioned I also did some in white that I can dye later. Those are the ones I will show.

After putting the cut pieces together right sides in (outsides in) I sewed along the outer side seam and the in seam. Indicated by the yellow dashed lines.


Did that for both left and right legs. I then lined up the inseams and pinned the crotch area together.

I sewed the crotch seam from center to back waist, then again from center to front waist.

Viola! Pants!

I decided to go with an elastic waistband because it seemed pretty simple to do. I took some 3/4" elastic and stretched it around my waist to the snugness I wanted. I then marked the spots where the elastic would come together.

I placed a safety pin at one end so that I can pull the elastic through the waist.
Next I hemed over the waist and left enough space to run the elastic through. Here I left a space of 1" between the edge and stitching so the 3/4" elastic would run through easily. I left an approximately 1" opening in the waist to put the elastic in.

I took the safety pin and pushed it through the opening and pulled the elastic all the way around. Be careful not to pull the trail end of the elastic through the hole.

Once I had the elastic in with both ends sticking out of the opening I lined up the marks I left and pinned the ends together. I was then able to sew them together with a zig zag stitch.

I then pushed the elastic in, made sure it wasn't twisted and sewed up the opening.


Next up...putting the quilted padding for the knees.
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice and simple! Tempting...
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good! However, I'm not sure I would recommend using muslin for your permanent pants. The fabric is great for mockups but won't last through many wears in my experience.

This fabric from JoAnns has a nice weight to it, is the correct color range and has some stretch. It might work better for you if you were interested.
https://www.joann.com/sportswear-apparel-stretch-twill-fabric-57-navy-solid/15775489.html

My only comment on the fabric you were going to use for the quilted section of the pants is that the diamond pattern appears to be much smaller than the screen used costumes. I was worried how specific this needed to be which is why I quilted mine by machine. The quilted fabric you have works great for the jacket yoke but may not be approved for the pants. I'd check with an LCJ just to make sure before you did all that work.

I was just approved with this costume and have helped a few others in my base so if you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a PM. You have a great start though!
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LeiaAurora wrote:
Looks good! However, I'm not sure I would recommend using muslin for your permanent pants. The fabric is great for mockups but won't last through many wears in my experience.

This fabric from JoAnns has a nice weight to it, is the correct color range and has some stretch. It might work better for you if you were interested.
https://www.joann.com/sportswear-apparel-stretch-twill-fabric-57-navy-solid/15775489.html

My only comment on the fabric you were going to use for the quilted section of the pants is that the diamond pattern appears to be much smaller than the screen used costumes. I was worried how specific this needed to be which is why I quilted mine by machine. The quilted fabric you have works great for the jacket yoke but may not be approved for the pants. I'd check with an LCJ just to make sure before you did all that work.

I was just approved with this costume and have helped a few others in my base so if you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a PM. You have a great start though!

Oh this is great input. Thank you so much. I was uncertain about the the muslin, as far as it's thinness and color, but I figured it was cheap so not bad to practice with. I do have a few questions about the quilted fabric so I'll drop you a PM. Thanks again
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after some great input from LeiaAurora () I got some different fabric for the pants which I'm much happier with. The feel and weight of the new fabric is much better. Also i'm more comfortable with the color. It looks lighter in the photos than it actually is. I also used this fabric to make the quilted knee padding.
I started by drawing and cutting out a diamond pattern in the size I wanted on the padding. I used that as a template to draw the pattern on the fabric with a fabric pencil.

Once the pattern was drawn I sandwiched a piece of batting between the two pieces of fabric and pinned it.

I then just sewed along the pencil lines. Not as difficult as I had anticipated.
After sewing the diamond pattern in I hemmed the bottom edge.

Using the pieces of fabric that would be the pants legs I folded over about an inch that would be the waistline and held it against my own leg to see where the padding should be attached. Looking at some of the reference photos it appears the padding starts just above the knee and goes down to at least mid-calf. After marking it off I sewed the padding to the piece of fabric that would be the front of the pants.

I then sewed the pants together as described above and hemmed the bottoms to my height.


I had planned on doing the vest next, but since I have the materials for the gaiters right now I'll knock those out.
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those look great!! Wonderful job!
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The gaiters were pretty simple, but time consuming. I looked at some of the standard reference photos and watched ESB again to get some more looks at the gaiters.

I broke it down to three parts. The front/toe boot cover, the ankle section, and the tongue. I took some measurements of the boot I wanted to use (just an old pair I had laying around) and made some patterns. For the fabric I noticed others use material similar to the pants and some used a thicker felt. I found some of the thicker felt at the fabric store so I went with that.

The front/toe gets sewn along the curved top and seam allowance trimmed at the toe so that it sits better on the boot.

Where the top curves near the ankle I cut two slits into the seam allowance so that area sits better on the boot as well.

Along the bottom sewed a hem and applied some industrial Velcro to the inside.

The other side of the Velcro applied to the boot.



From there I hemmed 3 sides of the tongue. The unhemmed side will attach to the ankle section.


On the ankle section I sewed a hem at the bottom and attached Velcro there as well as the corresponding area on the boot.

I folded over and pinned the top of the gaiter ankle section to the height I wanted it to come up to.


The unhemmed side of the tongue gets pinned to the side of the ankle section that will be the inner side of the leg (medial). The bottom of the tongue should go to about where the ankle section starts to flare out. Later this gets aligned with the bottom horizontal fastening strap.
In the photo you can see were I folded up and pinned the tongue at that point.

The inside of the tongue and inside of the ankle section should be facing each other.

Next I wanted to see where I would be placing the horizontal fastening straps. From the reference photos I gathered there was 3 horizontal straps equidistant apart starting at about the bottom of the ankle. I marked this with some tape.

I needed to know how long to make the horizontal strapping so I put the boots with gaiters on and measured around the area where the straps will go.


I put strapping along the top edge of the gaiter.

Next the vertical strapping was placed on the side edges.
When sewing the vertical strapping to the inner leg side the tongue also gets sewed to the ankle section.


Now I was ready for the horizontal strapping.
After cutting the lengths I needed I folded over and sewed the ends to keep them from fraying.

It's important to align the bottom of the tongue with the bottom horizontal strap so that the strap covers where the bottom of the tongue lays on the front/toe section. This helps to make it look like all one piece.

I sewed the horizontal strapping starting at the tongue side (inner leg) and around to the outer leg side.


Now to place some Velcro to fasten them.


Ready to try it on


I later added some strategically placed Velcro to attach the front bottom of the ankle section to the rear of the front/toe section. It allowed both sections to sit better together.

I think I'll move on to the jacket next as it's more entailed than the vest. I'd also like to have the jacket done before the vest so that I can make sure the vest fit will be right with the jacket on.
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LeiaAurora wrote:
Those look great!! Wonderful job!

Thank you !
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took a few days of work to complete the jacket. I used McCall's pattern 5252 view F for the jacket pattern. This was suggested in many of the posts I had researched. I also followed a tutorial from Angel Monkey Studios http://costumesandartwork.blogspot.com/2013/12/hoth-rebel-soldierhoth-luke-jacket-vest.html

The pattern had to have a few modifications made to it in order to make it a Hoth jacket.
I traced the pattern onto some tissue paper so I could make the modifications.
The first change I had to make was to mark on the pattern for the back section where the quilted portion of the back will be.
In the photo there is a dashed line above which was used to cut the pieces for the quilted section.
I constructed the quilted section for the back and the front "yolk" the same way I made the quilted sections for the pants knees.

Front yolk section


The bottom edge of the quilted potion is not sewn to the back of the jacket and doesn't show a hem seam. To achieve this I just folded the end over and secured it with some hem tape.


I put together the back and front yolk pieces as directed in the pattern instructions, but added the back quilted section along with it.
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another modification I had to make was to the front section. The pattern makes the front using three panels sewn together. The Hoth jacket is one piece. I took the side and middle section of the pattern and taped them together. I then halved the middle portion so that I could cut the fabric on the fold to make a single front piece.



The pattern for the sleeve is the same with some additions to it. The first is a quilted lower arm section. I measured my arm length and where the padded section was to be then drew some dashed lines on the sleeve pattern to make a template for the quilted arm pieces. Seam allowance was added when cutting the fabric. The quilted arm section were constructed as the other quilted pieces above.


Specific pockets are to be added to the sleeves along with a rank insignia patch. I got the patterns for the pockets from Angel Monkey Studios (see link in above post).

Right pocket

Left pocket

Patch for rank insignia

All pockets sewn onto the sleeves before sewing the sleeves onto the jacket.

For the rank insignia I had drawn it on my computer and made a laser printed heat transfer for cotton fabric.


I then sewed the sleeves onto the jacket as directed in the pattern instructions.
Overall not a bad result.





Next working on the vest!
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kman ()
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic work!
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Arson_Dex (Lawrence)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2019 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Completed the vest tonight. I started with a pattern I obtained at a group build our base had.

I used the same fabric I used on the jacket. I cut 2 pieces of fabric and a piece of batting for the padding. I put one piece of fabric and the batting together sewing them.

I put the 2nd piece of fabric on the 1st (with batting) right sides together.

Once everything was pinned together I cut up the center front.

After sewing it together I turned the right sides out evening out the batting and stitching up the end where I turned the fabric out.

Then I stitched about a centimeter wide edge around the whole thing.


I used a ruler and fabric pencil to draw where I wanted the shoulder stitching at using the reference photos as a guide and stitched along the lines.



Next I made some triangular shaped extensions to attach the strapping to. I just drew out the pattern using the width of the bottom waist section of the vest and the width of the strapping I wanted to use (2")

Cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 batting from the pattern for each side. Pin the fabric right sides together with batting on top, sew and turn right sides out.


After that I wanted to attach the strapping. First the belt loops. I wanted loops big enough to fit a 2" wide belt at most with some space for it to hang away from the vest. I decided to make 3" loops and left a 1/2" tab to sew to the vest. Made 4 loops.


Next sewed the strapping and buckle to the extensions. 2" strapping with 2" triglyde slider buckles.
Looped the strap though the buckle and sewed it.

sewed the strap and buckle to the extension.

Sewed a length of strap to the other extension. I left it long enough to run though the buckle and to be able to trim it down if needed.



Also to take care of the frayed loose edges of the strapping I used a match to melt and seal the ends.

I then sewed the extensions to the vest.



For the back of the collar made three 2" loops with buckle leaving a 1/2" tab to sew to the vest.



On the back there is a strap attached to the middle buckle extending down to the back of the belt. I cut a piece of strapping long enough to loop through the middle buckle and reach down to where the belt will sit allowing for a 3" loop at the bottom.


In these photos I have the vertical back strap attached to the vest waist strap just to keep it neat, but once I make a belt I can extend it down to run the belt through it's loop.

I'll add the rank badge and greeblies to the front of the vest later as I get them.


Next up I'll tackle trying to piece together a hat and gathering parts for the belt.
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