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Empathy's TLJ controller Jacket
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:38 am    Post subject: Empathy's TLJ controller Jacket Reply with quote

So Its been a long time coming and after finishing my Resistance officer for MCM, I starting patterning this.







Proposed standard:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=102942

Jacket SA fabric is Cambric cotton, but Cotton Lawn, or any basic plain natural cotton would work.

The fabric we (the detachment) are suggesting is kona cotton in honey. Its a really tricky colour. (I'm currently working on the ritt dye recipes, which I will add at the end)










https://emmasfabricstudio.co.uk/collections/kona-cotton-solids-1/products/kona-cotton-solid-honey?
variant=15242588867

Basic Patterning. I'm going to do some quilting samples later.






Trousers are tobbaco brown sanded twill, I have the block from my TFA junior controller. Anya has since created a good guide for the controller trousers.











Glie 44



Crow props Poe boots, you can still get a few sizes from po-zu...they also have an outlet on ebay its worth a look.

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/products?search=poe



Belt

Buckle Tandy leather:
https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/rectangle-buckle-blank-1-1-2-38-mm-to-1-3-4-4-4-cm

Blank leather world, 2inch
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/leatherworld?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2754

Cut out section for the belt to sit flush to the buckle, glued with eco-flo







So quilting:

Links on garment quilting, some good tips:

https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2019/02/how-to-quilt-fabric-for-garments

http://blog.mccall.com/2015/12/08/tips-for-quilting-coats-jackets-and-fashion-garments/

I may be driving myself slightly nuts with the measurements. Proposed CRL says 1/2 and inch..........I think the sleeves look like 1/2 an inch, but the body looks more like a cm (I may have just been looking at it waaay to long?? also I'm wondering if some of these are different jackets). Excuse my wobbly un-matching lines






Single layer batting at 1/2 inch:


Single layer batting at 1cm:


Double batting samples 1/2 on the left, 1cm on the right.




single layer batting with light calico backing:

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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So much u'mmimg and hmmmm'ing about construction. On reflection, I think perhaps 2 layers of fabric, with batting in between. Then binding the seams.......I didn't dye enough, so I'm using super light weight calico to back, then lining.

I dyed for like 2 days and weathered the fabric. I'm at the point where I can't do much more. It looks different in every light!


So looking at more pics of the generics I'm thinking ..........Actually they all look a bit different and a bit uneven. Some of the generics def look like smaller spacing.













I came to the conclusion that as generics they prob all are slightly different and prob just rushed through on construction......I went with 1cm, but i think 1cm or 1/2 inch is fine.

........All remarked and ready to go.



So I want to do the halo type braid the lady has in the pic above........Its been a long time since I did hair extension stuff so I can't remember any of the colour codes or anything......I used cyberlocks who were great! They are UK based though.

https://www.cyberloxshop.co.uk/

I looked for tutorials and Jen Eyres video, on how to do hoth hair with extensions is really good........

https://www.facebook.com/JenEyreCosplay/videos/569076806889998/


Was tinkering with the hair yesterday....wookie blend colour braid hair, I think I'm going to mix a little light brown in as well. I managed to remember how to plait the hair straight in to my own hair. Just need to get the back level.

I'm going to apply with my hair up, but just a mention if I have facial neuralgia or a really bad migraine (I have several rare types, that can cause me to loose the ability to walk and speak and stuff) I might have to wear it down sometimes....I'll mention to the judges, just don't want people to think I'm just flouting the rules.




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Last edited by tenebris (empathy) on Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:11 am; edited 1 time in total
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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The SA fabric is a nightmare....to dye, to sew, to pin. Its good in that you just need one layer, but I think there are easier cottons to work with.

I wanted to do the patch on the left arm version, but I think I've also found a couple of ref's proving some controllers don't have any markings.

The lady on the far left side appears a few time and she has no front or left arm red rebel print.











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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I'm putting my trousers together, here's how I did the knee pads. I left the Seam allowance quite large, as it looks to be quite visible on the ref.

Knee patches

First I make a template of my knee pad in card (final shape and size with no seam allowance).

Then I add 2cm Seam allowance all the way round and use that to cut my fabric.

I stitch in a long stitch (5 on my machine) at aprrox 1.5cm ish from the edge all the way round, then again at about 1cm....its doesn't have to be neat, the rows just can't touch.....leave the ends long and don't back-stitch at either end, as you will be gathering the fabric.

Put the card in the center of the stitching and pull on 1 of the threads of the outer stitching and feed the fabric round so it evenly starts to gather, you can pull on the same thread from the other end, then gently do the same on the other line.

Then gently press from the wrong side with a press cloth and turn over and press from the right side. Once the shape has taken, carefully take the card out and press again. Trim some excess of the threads.









Patch Pockets

The patch pockets are unusual in that they over lap at the side seams. I top-stitched them partially while the pattern piece was flat and left it un-stitched at the side seams to allow me to join the front of the trousers to the back and top-stitch the seam detail before attaching, I just pinned it out of the way .




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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So holsters: There are 2 holsters we see for the officers, This is the only one we have refs for on the controllers and is in the standard. I've found a couple of generics with holsters and you can't make out the detail, but its presumed its this one. (this one is also approvable for the TFA melton jacket officer and the TLJ melton jacket officer).

Disclaimer.......I is not a leather guru, I just blunder my way through. But here's how I did it.

I started with a block paper pattern and tinkered till it was a bout right, then put it onto card, made any adjustments and traced off onto the leather. I used veg tan leather (this one is a little thick, but I wanted to use it up). I scored the inside of each line to be folded and wet the leather to mold it round the gun, when it was almost dry, I unfolded bits then I used a leather fork to create the stitching holes, lined up the holes and stitched with waxed thread. I glued the front section with eco leather glue, once it was dry I used a damp sponge with eco flo water based leather dye and rubbed it in......It needs one more layer I reckon and some carnuba wax to seal it.






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tenebris (empathy)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



I've also order a new Glie......I was holding out for a 44D which is TLJ accuarate, but I think it will be a while longer. I also intend to get an E16-HFE. As they are not easy to get for a reasonable cost accurately, it something I'll be working on with someone from Elstree base.

And done, just need to put it all on and app in. The reason I have a seam in the top of the back, is alterations for my physical disability's. I also have to have a few other bits like the collar slightly further away from my neck as other wise it triggers my fainting....






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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work! I wish I had the patience for dyeing cloth. I might be more inclined to attempt projects like this...
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to put up all my dylon and ritt recipes in a post. You can just put in the washing machine.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is turning out so beautifully! App it in already, lady!
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, I'm on it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Left-handed holster?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kman wrote:
Left-handed holster?


If you look back up at the pic of Connix with her blaster drawn, the holster is on the left side.
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instarlight (Anya)
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stunning sewing and research work, per usual, Empathy!
I'm starting to modify the commercial pattern I picked up so I'll shoe horn in what I've learned from here into it.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RebelLady wrote:
kman wrote:
Left-handed holster?


If you look back up at the pic of Connix with her blaster drawn, the holster is on the left side.


So she does! I had never noticed that before. Definitely wears it on the left, cross-draw style.

Looking through references, it's funny how no one seems to wear them on the bridge, but many are suddenly armed in the later scenes. Left side or right side seems to vary with the character moreso than with the costume/uniform itself. Kind of all over the map, now that I'm looking for it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The TLJ officers in the 'melton' wear the same holster on the other side, its the mix and match of these that have made the standards so tricky to write.

Anya that's awesome. Really want to work on adding options for patterns that can be altered.
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