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Padme Cut Senate Scene Gown: Redo

 
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:47 am    Post subject: Padme Cut Senate Scene Gown: Redo Reply with quote



I originally made this gown in 2011, but I'm doing a massive overhaul to it this year. I'm starting a new thread since my original is 17 pages long.

Corset: Make New One - DONE
Post 1

Hoop Skirt: Make Bigger One - DONE
Petticoat: Make Bigger One - DONE
Post 1

Yellow Dress:
-Make Bigger Skirt DONE
-Re-tailor Bodice/collar DONE
-Re-bead Applique
Velvet Dress:
-Re-tailor Bodice
-Different fabric for lower sleeves
-Add better poofage for sleeves
-Make better shaped collar
-Touch up Naboo symbols on front
Back Drape:
-Make Beaded Shoulder/Tie Appliques
-Embroider fabric for drape
Hair: Make New Hairpiece
Jewelry: Make New Headpiece
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837


Last edited by Leia (Vera Campbell) on Mon Aug 05, 2019 11:13 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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Joined: 07 Jan 2003
Posts: 1373

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Corset

When I first made this costume, since the shape of it is rather Elizabethan, I decided to go with Elizabethan corsettry. I made my corset based on one of the corset books I have (it might have been Janet Arnold), where the hoop skirt ties to the corset.

This was a big mistake!

The first time I wore it for hours at a con, I realized with the hoop skirt tied to the corset, the entire weight of the dress rested on my shoulders. After I took it off, I couldn't raise my arms for an hour. I've only worn this costume twice because of this issue. So, I decided to make a cincher instead. The hoopskirt will sit over the cincher, which means this time the weight of the costume is mostly on my hips which will hopefully make it more comfortable to wear.

This is made from coutill, silk dupioni, and spring steel bones.

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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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Joined: 07 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoopskirt/Petticoat

I wanted to make a bigger skirt with this redo, which means making a bigger hoopskirt. Since hoopsteel is expensive and I was already building a hoopskirt for a Cinderella costume, I decided to just use that one for this project. It... may or may not be too big, it'll be hard to tell until I actually finish and have it on. I forgot to take a picture of it, I have a partially finished picture of it.



Of course, a hoopskirt needs a petticoat to hide the hoops through the fabric, and I may have gotten a tad ambitious.



This was my original, out of muslin:




This thing has started to take over about half of my sewing room Laughing
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't have thought of the shape of the corset putting all of the weight on your shoulders, but that's certainly something to consider.

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your progress!
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I found out the hard way Embarassed
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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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LaV317 (LaVonne)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I absolutely love this gown!!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Until seeing that side by side I wouldn't have thought your original hoopskirt small, but now I see why you wanted it bigger.

It's an interesting process to follow. Very Happy
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update, I wasn't able to get enough progress done in time for Celebration so I put this on hold until afterwards. I've redone the skirt to be larger and completely remade the bodice (yay for fabric hoarding). The neck was too loose on the last one due to my dressform being too large, I ended up taking apart and rebuilding my dressform so the neck was the right size. I'm not attaching the bodice to the skirt, though, until I've finished the beading. I've redone the collar and am now attaching the applique to the chest.

The first time I did this, I saw in the picture that the original beading was beaded on top of something else that was a purple and then applied. I have a picture I took at the first exhibit of an applique that I'm thinking was a vintage piece they had. When they did the screen test of the original costume, the moire fabric strobed on film because of the fine ribs in the fabric, so I'm guessing they added pieces from this fairly quickly. I can see motifs from this piece throughout the beading where they cut pieces out and applied.



My original I tried to bead on poly chiffon and cut it out with a hotknife, but it turned out a hot mess. This time I decided to bead on top of ultrasuede, as I could cut it without fraying. I also noticed that parts of the beading have the backing, and others do not, so I beaded the main part of the design in the hoop, cut it apart and applied, then did supplemental beading. My first sequins were hand-shaped and painted with a dremel. I managed to find some vintage metal sequins in the right shape and stripped the paint with acetone, and repainted. The colors are a little brighter than I wanted, but had trouble finding a paint that preserved the metal shine underneath.

The collar, cutting apart. I used a water soluable back stabilizer, wet n gone, and a water soluble topper to draw my design on. When I rinsed it out, I did so lightly so some of the starch of the stabilizer stiffened the applique to make it easier to apply:



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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's super elegant! Wonderfully done so far. As always, your research on the details is super enlightening.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
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bekahsoka ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always love seeing your build threads Vera, and this one is no exception! Cannot wait to see more progress!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So beautiful! Such attention to detail! Very Happy It's always great to see a build post from you with the care you take in your research and making of a costume. Amadalia
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never noticed the detail on the neck area before your thread. It is gorgeous. Beautiful job!
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In progress/submitted: Vice Admiral Holdo, Clone Wars Padme Amidala, Clone Cadet
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