Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=2dba59f4f6cb6a63822af367328b2144Medals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

Finding Apailana
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> Other Dignitaries
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Kylo Ren (Dawn Bright)
Assistant Membership Officer
Assistant Membership Officer


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 1436
Location: Disneyland
Medals: 3 (View more...)
Philippines Typhon Relief (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow that is stunning fabric!! Its so close to thee original Holy smokes!
_________________


LMO 501st Legion
ALMO Rebel Legion
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Princess Liz Fett (Liz Welsh)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 12 Jan 2013
Posts: 1601
Location: Clayton, NC
Medals: 3 (View more...)
Celebration Anaheim (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That fabric looks like a spot on match!! Smile awesome job, can't wait to see more of this!
_________________
Blue Ridge Base
Legion Costume Judge: Royalty, Fringe, and Rebel Supporters
501st Legion member DZ-11177
Rebel Legion Costumer of the Year 2013
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6153

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First: awesome find!

And second: Well... depending on the price (and shipping) I might be interested... I like this dress very much, but it kinda scares me. But seeing as I'm in Europe importing stuff is rather expensive, so the fabric will need to be pretty cheap for me to jump on this. (Our customs are crazy with taxes and handling).
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We'll see what I can find, but knowing what most kimono fabric costs, if I went for a custom weave, it's going to be painfully expensive. Maybe I'll get lucky and find something already made that works. I'll let you know what I find though. I really need to ask some of the Japan Base ladies if they have any other tips for fabric hunting that I haven't already figured out. Mr. Green
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a huge hunt of the Nippori fabric district in Tokyo (which, by the way, is where to look for fabric if you are ever in Tokyo) and although I found a nice top-layer fabric for redoing my Tatooine Peasant Padme, the best I could find for Apailana's fabric was a silver-gold brocade of sakura flowers. It's better than what I have... but I don't $20/yd love it that much. When I can get my phone to cooperate with the internet next, I'll upload photos of the sakura fabric.

The best discovery I did make is that the fabric type I am looking for is indeed not kimono fabric. It is a standard-width (70cm) Japanese fabric type called kinran (金らんor金襴) which is basically brocade using metallic threads. This can be all metallic, or metallic mixed in with other colors.

So, armed with that knowledge, I did a Japanese online search for kinran, and I found two decently geometric metallic kinran brocades:

A bit too gold, but I like the pattern: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/okadaya1ec2/2360130003868/

A lighter gold, more swirly than geometric: http://shop2.genesis-ec.com/search/item.asp?shopcd=17256&item=kin127-1

The other discovery is that probably the biggest kinran maker in Japan is a 20 minute bike ride from my apartment in Kyoto, so you all know where I'll be going once I'm back home at the end of March. Mr. Green

So, I am keeping up the search, but I will not commit unless I find perfection this early in the game. Come August and I still haven't found the exact pattern, I will settle for something else.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've only got a couple months left in Japan, and I still haven't gone fabric hunting in the Nishijin Textile district, but before I go, I need to know how much fabric this costume is going to take me. In order to do that, I needed to do some patterning.

So, this evening I set about doing some math.



I'm 5'6" so I set each box of that grid to be 6". Staring at it, I realized that each repeat of the pattern is approximately 2" tall and 1" wide. So, using that and a tape-measure on myself, I was able to start estimating some measurements.

The next job was to figure out where the seams were.



Although I couldn't find any good images of straight-on the back, this image helped me see the center back seam, as well as the side seam. Thanks to the repeating pattern, it is really easy to see where the grain line is and what angles things are at. Using grain lines, I started to look at what angles the side seam was at.



Then, I did some figuring of the shape of the fold in the front as well as how far off the ground it was in the front and the angle of the curve.



You can see here that the bottom of the folded portion is perpendicular to the grain, so at least for that portion, it is straight across, but as soon as it folds over, the curve towards the floor begins.

The sleeves were fun to figure out. Initially, I had assumed that the sleeves were straight down, with a grain parallel to the kimono body like this shoulder shot shows so nicely:



However, when I started tracing grain lines, it became clear that the sleeves are actually at an angle.



I was then able use the pattern repeat to estimate the shape and measurements of the sleeve.

With all of that, I did a lot of sketching and math. (This math major is embarrassed to admit that she had to look up trig identities Embarassed It's been a while...)



Then I was finally able to come back to the question of how much fabric I will need. Kinran fabric generally is 70cm wide, which is about 27.5". Comparing that with my sketched pattern pieces, I noticed that I won't be able to do the front skirt piece seamlessly with the fold like the original. So, like it or not, I'll have to hide a seam in the fold.

Some more math later, I should need 336" (accounting for a directional pattern), which is about 8.5m. Estimating off typical kinran prices, that will ring me up at just over $200 USD.

This is still my fall-back fabric, as I have seen it in several locations as well as online there, but I hope to take one of my days off in the next couple of weeks and go hunting in Nishijin for something more geometric.

So, progress! I won't cut into this until I get back to the US in the fall, but it feels good to move forward some more.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, the fabric hunt continues. I found a little show-room for a kinran manufacturer last month, and this is the best they had outside in their tiny shop:



I am not completely in love with either. However, said company has an exhibition where they air out ALL of their designs later this week, so I plan to go check it out.

Also in my search, I discovered another Kyoto-based kinran manufacturer which allows visits upon appointment, so if I don't find what I am looking for at the first exhibition, I will make an appointment there.

Here's the catch, these second guys do custom weaves: http://kondaya.com/ordermade.html

They don't have pricing and specifics there, but I can ask about that when I go. However, I doubt they will just want to do 8 meters only and be done. Since I'm leaving Kyoto in less than a month, this will have to be a pretty fast turn around if I go for it.

Does anyone want in on a custom run of the Apailana fabric if I do it?
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just notices that this tread started 8 years ago...

But, the search continues and I finally found something close enough to have a go at it!



I was in Chennai, India for a wedding, and Chennai is famous for its silks, so I used my one free morning to go on a wild silk chase all over the city. I finally ended up at a sari shop called Pothy's that also sold materials by the meter. This stuff appears to be a silk blend, but has a fantastic weight and geometric pattern. I also found some lovely tissue silk for lining and silk-cotton for the hakama (photos later).

Now that I'm back in the US and have an abundance of brown packing paper from our move, I decided to take some of that and turn it into a pattern for the outer kimono. Nearly all of my original calculations for the pattern were correct, so I'm quite pleased how it turned out:



Only the sleeve height was wrong. The arm hole needed to be 10", so each of the vertical measurements needed to be extended by 2" on top. (I'm 5'6" tall.)

All the pieces together



Skirt front



Skirt back and (folded) front together



Sleeve



Kimono top



Approximately the front


_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
LaV317 (LaVonne)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Posts: 610
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find! (This one is also on my list - I love it!)

Can't wait to see your progress photos! Amadalia
_________________
Costuming Site: http://lavcostumingjournal.blogspot.com
TPM Black Invasion Gown (complete)
Bespin Escape Leia (complete)
ROTJ Leia (complete)
TFA General Leia (complete)
Senatorial Leia (in progress)
Ceremonial Leia (in progress)
AOTC Jamilla (90%)
AOTC Corde' (in progress)
Mara Jade (501st Approved)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6153

Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really wish I could teleport myself to that shop; just saw a fabric in the background I'd like a closer look at. Laughing

But this will be awesome! Your Apailana journey has already been a long one, but it's finally looking like it will come to fruition. Mr. Green
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Ritin Kornas ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 09 Jun 2009
Posts: 611
Location: Switzerland
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lora Skywalker wrote:
I really wish I could teleport myself to that shop; just saw a fabric in the background I'd like a closer look at. Laughing

Is it the golden one on the left of the pic just next to the elbow ? ^^


Nice fabric you found, got lucky also to find an amazing silk when I visited vietnam last year. I wish I would have had more fabrics from RLGS in mind to spot potential good ones !

I'ld be happy to 3D model the headpiece in case it can help Smile
_________________
CO Rebel Legion Helvetica Base (serving Switzerland)
Member of the RL Galactic Senate Council
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shopping for silks (and other fabrics in general) in Asia is the best. The rest of the world just doesn't fabric as well.

The purple silk at my elbow in that photo is going to be the kimono lining.

If you want to model that headpiece, I certainly wouldn't complain. Wink It might make the costume more accessible for other people, as it is probably the toughest part. I was planning to try worbla and craft foam, because they're light. With all of the beads, this headdress is going to get heavy quickly.

I'm still (impatiently) waiting on my moving truck to get here so I can actually start cutting and sewing.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The moving truck will be here tomorrow, so I'll be able to start sewing again soon!

In the mean time, I got really side-tracked today and started looking for laces that I could use for the headdress.




Photo from DarkStar


What I think we're looking at here is several layers of lace with beads on them. The design is loosely floral with lots of loops, and relatively symmetrical.

I started my search on the keyword of "corded lace" and I found a couple nice trims that could possibly for the front.

Corded Lace

Then I found a keyword that might be more accurate for what this lace is: "Venice Lace"

Venice Lace Collar: Could be used for front and parts of back

Venice Lace Applique 1: This could be the bottom of the front and use the other bits in scattered places in the back.

Venice Lace Applique 2: This could be used with the Applique 1 to form part of the front

Tiny Applique 1: This one looks like it would be great for the bottom of the back

Tiny Applique 2: This one looks like it could be used near the top of the front and in the middle of the back.

Wide Lace Trim: This one looks like it could be useful in the back in keeping stuff together, and maybe borrow bits of it for the front.

The idea would be to dye it all dark gray to match the reference. I think most (if not all) of the Venice lace is rayon, whereas the corded lace might be more polyester.

Thoughts? Do you think these will work?
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2534
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Making heavy reference to Naergi's excellent guide to this costume, I'm on a roll for materials hunting.



She has little gold filigree buttons on her under sleeves. These buttons look like an excellent match.

Naergi also calculated that there are 5 types of beads in the headdress, with some color variation within each type.

2mm x 12mm bugle beads, 1400 (Aluminum or Silver Glass or Gunmetal or Bronze Aluminum)

2mm x 3 mm cut seed beads, 4400 (gunmetal or frosted or silver lined or iridescent or metallic brown)

3 mm pearls, 2200 (Gunmetal or Steel or Rainbow Iris or Hematite or Dark Hematite or blue iris)

4 mm pearls, 3000 (4 silvers or aluminum or silky silver or Silver Grey or Blue-Gray or Medium Silver or silver shell or Dark Silver or Gunmetal or Pewter or Pearlized Gray or Smokey Silver or Dark Silver or Bright Gunmetal)

6 mm pearls, 800 (gunmetal or smokey silver or silver gray or bright silver or pewter)

It seems to me that the brightest silver color is found in the 6mm pearls and the silver color gets darker for 4mm and even darker for 3 mm. The seed beads and bugles are somewhere in the middle and may be iridescent. I think I may get a few colors of each and use them randomly, because I need so many of each size.

I'm probably not going to purchase any of these until I get a little more done with the soft parts of the costume, but it was fun to research.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6153

Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heh, I was thinking 'venice lace' before I saw your writing on it. Smile

And awesome research! Now that I, too, have fabric this will happen. But considering my current lack of space I'll hold off buying more materials right now. (Well, I'll try. I might get tempted by something beyond my ability to resist).
And meanwhile I'll follow your build so I can reference it when I get started myself. Wink

Ritin, if you model that headdress I think we would both be grateful. And anyone else who might want this costume.
And yes... That one does look nice, doesn't it? ^^
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> Other Dignitaries All times are GMT
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Page 2 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2018 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group