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[New Standards] The Last Jedi Leia- Raddus Bridge Gown

 
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 4:11 pm    Post subject: [New Standards] The Last Jedi Leia- Raddus Bridge Gown Reply with quote

Thank you to everyone who helped out in the public discussion of this costume. Please do continue to refine the standards here. This discussion will remain open for two weeks or until we come to a consensus, then it will move to the Costume Standards Committee.


Quote:
1) Outer Coat
a. Thehe coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric woven silver metallic fabric. The fabric should weave should give the impression of a neat square pattern.
b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be self-lined
c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat
d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front
e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric
f. The coat length should reach or be no higher than .5 inches/1.3 cm off of the floor

2) Under Dress
a. A light charcoal gray under dress
b. The dress is long sleeved and has no top-stitching around the bottom hem, belt band, sleeves or neckline
c. The dress features a front center seam.
d. The dress features a split neckline, the top of the neckline starts at the clavicle and the split extends down roughly 4 inches/10 cm
e. The dress is gathered at the front at empire waistline level
f. There is a front band 1.5 to 2 inches/3.8-5 cm wide at empire waistline level starting under one side breast and extending across the front of the dress and ending at the opposite side breast.
g. The sleeves of the dress end at wrist level and the bottom hem of the dress ends 2 inches from the floor.

3) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the half-way point of the ear and ending at the half-way point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

4) Shoes
a. Black round-toe boots with dark soles

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate gold or bronze wrist cuff approximately 3 inches/7.6 cm wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff should feature a gradual wave pattern
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural make-up: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eye-shadow, and mascara


Public Discussion: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=91777
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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Joined: 21 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Here is a scan of the dress from the TLJ Visual Dictionary with a close up of the belt to (hopefully) answer LaVonne's question regarding the belt Amadalia
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Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ibejedi sent me some helpful comments by PM that I'd like to share for the detachment's consideration:

ibejedi wrote:
Hey there -- I'm not able to comment on the Standards post that's now active (I guess because I'm not part of Galactic Senate or a judge). But I had a couple of things I wanted to comment on -- mostly for clarity/understanding:

Outer Coat
a. The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric woven silver metallic fabric. The fabric should weave should give the impression of a neat square pattern. I feel like this is confusing the way it is written, and possibly not quite accurate? Maybe "Black or very dark gray woven fabric with a metallic silver sheen" The way it's stated doesn't make sense when you read it out loud ("black or very dark grey fabric woven silver metallic fabric") Smile Also -- perhaps the "metallic silver sheen" could be listed as "preferably with a" -- as this is getting so specific it's nearly impossible to find something that fits all of those elements exactly. Not that I'm eschewing screen accuracy, but I know sometimes we have to get "close enough" I have searched probably a thousand fabrics now, and have only found 2 or 3 that *might* fit that exact description Smile

Oh, and there's an extra "should" in the sentence about the weave -- or maybe it should say "The fabric weave or pattern" -- since a pattern on the fabric could mimic an actual weave in that exact design?


b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be self-lined Technically speaking, this should probably say "faced" or even"underlined" rather than "self lined" -- but that may just be my OCD talking Smile

c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat I think this needs to be clarified, in regards to the collar, as I had a question for my judge regarding this requirement. The way it reads,
it's not exactly clear if it means a horizontal or vertical collar seam. Especially since there is supposed to be a center back seam (and "center back" is probably better than "mid-back" - which seems to indicate horizontally across the middle of the back rather than vertical down the center to me) - normally you might see a center seam on the collar as well, if it extends up from the back. Again, maybe I'm just being OCD, but I want to help make sure that it's as clear as possible.

I am curious as to where the "collar seam on the back portion, but not front portion" came from -- the only place I've seen it is if you photoshop the heck out of that dark, Leia from the back, shot from the trailer - I didn't see a seam in any of the viewings of the film, or any other reference image. It's strange too, as the way it's stated doesn't make a lot of sense, garment construction wise (either horizontal seam all the way around the base of collar to front, or vertical up the center back only -- with collar being part of the entire back or front panel). Again, just food for thought.


d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front

e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric It might be clearer to say "the ENDS of the coat sleeves should..." but I know they are very tricky to describe.
Also, the "faced/under lined" comment applies here too Smile


I hope this all came across the right way -- and it is in no way meant in criticism of all of the hard work and research all of you have put into this costume. I just wanted to share my thoughts, after months of my own research on this costume, in the hope of making the standard as clear, inclusive and accurate as possible. I know when I was doing my TFA Leia, there were a few inconsistencies that were frustrating. (Silver ring...) I also know that I'm really OCD when it comes to these kinds of details, but I hope that is helpful rather than a detriment when it comes to this hobby. And if I've overstepped in my comments, just let me know!

Also -- I do have more reference images that I'm going to send along when I get a chance. I've been eating, breathing, sleeping the research on this one for the past 7-8 months!

Anyway - thank you again, and I can't wait to see the final standard. I'm working on my fixes for my costume (mostly waiting for fabric swatches to find the jacket fabric) and I look forward to joining the Royalty/Senatorial detachment Smile

_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

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LaV317 (LaVonne)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daughter of Alderaan wrote:


Here is a scan of the dress from the TLJ Visual Dictionary with a close up of the belt to (hopefully) answer LaVonne's question regarding the belt Amadalia


Thank you, Joy! I did purchase a copy of this book when it became available last month, to add to my library of research sources.

I look forward to the completion of this standard!

Great work, everyone! Leia Buns
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get confused by this line about the sleeves

Quote:
e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back.


To me it reads as if the sleeves are just tacked on at one point under the armpit and at one point in the back, with no seam attaching it to the coat at all. Considering the weight of the sleeve it's not possible to keep it close the bodice without a seam or more attachements.

I would write something more close to "the sleeve is attached from just under the armpit in front, up over the shoulder and to the lower shoulder blade
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Edits in blue based on convo:

1) Outer Coat

a. The coat should be made of a very dark gray fabric with a metallic silver sheen. The fabric weave or pattern should give the impression of a neat square design.
b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be lined with the exterior fabric.
c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back horizontal collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat
d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front
e. The end of the coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached from just under the armpit in front, up over the shoulder and to the lower shoulder blade. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric
f. The coat length should reach or be no higher than .5 inches/1.3 cm off of the floor

2) Under Dress
a. A light charcoal gray under dress
b. The dress is long sleeved and has no top-stitching around the bottom hem, belt band, sleeves or neckline
c. The dress features a front center seam.
d. The dress features a split neckline, the top of the neckline starts at the clavicle and the split extends down roughly 4 inches/10 cm
e. The dress is gathered at the front at empire waistline level
f. There is a front band 1.5 to 2 inches/3.8-5 cm wide at empire waistline level starting under one side breast and extending across the front of the dress and ending at the opposite side breast.
g. The sleeves of the dress end at wrist level and the bottom hem of the dress ends 2 inches from the floor.

3) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the half-way point of the ear and ending at the half-way point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

4) Shoes
a. Black round-toe boots with dark soles

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate gold or bronze wrist cuff approximately 3 inches/7.6 cm wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff should feature a gradual wave pattern
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural make-up: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eye-shadow, and mascara
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2441
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you everyone for contributing to this discussion. I will move this standard along to the CSC to be finalized.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
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