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Ceremonial Leia build-blog

 
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 1:50 am    Post subject: Ceremonial Leia build-blog Reply with quote



Progress:
-Gown: Constructing
-Shoes: Aquired; altering
-Belt: Patterning. Cutting discs.
-Necklace:
-Bracelet:
-Hair: Base wig built.
-Medal: Aquired.
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Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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Joined: 07 Jan 2003
Posts: 1326

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello, all!

I've started this build as I've been fortunate enough to see it in person at Celebration 8 and was inspired by how simply gorgeous it is. I also need a change from the standard Senatorial gown that I normally troop in.

Hopefully this info is helpful, but I do get a bit technical. I prefer to make as much as possible myself, and I like to study and come to my own conclusions on the patterning.

I've already made a wig to use for all my Leia and Jyn costumes, and I'll post more on that later. First is the patterning. After studying the gown in person, as well as other's exhibit pictures and my own experiments with draping, I've come to the following pattern shapes.



The sign displayed with the dress at Celebration (which is now owned by PropStore in the UK who graciously have brought the dress on tour and shared detailed pictures and information) that the garment is silk, is satin-lined, and made of silk jersey. I have started trying to source silk jersey, however my samples so far seem too heavy and opaque to match what I've seen in person, so for my first version of the dress, I am using a higher-quality polyester fabric. Since I know what the drape of both fabrics feel like, I picked the closest I could find. JoAnn Fabrics in the States has a new line called "Casa Sanded Satin", which has the feel of a silk charmeuse, and a Brushed Knit.

The way this dress is constructed is almost two separate elements, the skirt has two layers, and the bodice has two layers. The skirts are almost the same shape, with the underskirt (the satin) being hemmed evenly around just above the ankle, and the outer skirt is almost the same shape but a few inches longer in the front, with a train in the back. The bodice is fitted in the satin layer, and the sleeve drape gathers into the top layer of the front bodice.

I started by drafting a basic fitted bodice. Since I had to whip up a quick ballgown for an event (like ya do) and didn't feel like spending too much time, I just used my bodice pattern to give it a test run. It's really the best way to see if a pattern will work if you have to wear it for awhile. Since it's so low cut, my obvious concern is, well, keeping everything in place. I had to take care to alter the shape of the strap and add more room to move in the armscye to prevent the bodice opening from gaping.

Here's my ballgown test run. I have a bunch of patterning/construction pics to edit to add next!


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Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks great! Thank's for all of your detailed notes and sketches. Your ballgown test looks fantastic too.
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Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your beginning is great looking (and nice ball gown). Thanks for sharing and I look forward to seeing the finished result.

I certainly remember that low, wide cut U neck and making sure everything was lying nice and flat while making sure I got a good curve. I hope your gown will be less frustrating a project than mine. Razz
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I won't talk too much on the underdress, it's pretty much as it is in my diagram. The skirt is simply a bit A-line, you want enough room to be able to move in. The bodice will, of course, be fit to everyone's individual shape, but it's important to fit it for the right support, and as low as it is, it needs to not gape open when you place a medal on anyone! I found when making drafts that it's the shape of the armscye that makes it gape when you reach forward, so if you have that fitting issue, take some fabric out of the armhole where it starts to curve.

Here is an example of how I draped my wings. I used a cream fabric so it's easier to see.

[url=http://rebelshaven.com/images/costumes/leia/ceremonial/progress/sleevedrape001.jpg]
[/url]

The letters correspond to my diagram on the first post. It's basically pretty square as a start, the straight selvage edge running down the backside of the arm, the 45 degree angle is running down the side of the arm, where the wing is the longest. It comes to a bit of a sloping point.

This picture shows the shape of the point.



The angle of the front at E is a little arbitrary at this point, I might take a little more off of mine. The points A and C end up being at/just below the knee, and there is a very gentle slope between those and the longest point on the wings. The bodice I kind of pinned in place and marked along the line where the bodice meets the skirt. I didn't bother with the neck edge yet, as this is a bit more of a drapey thing than a patterning thing and it's important to leave some extra fabric for adjustments.

And here's my pattern draping results. Just needs a little tweaking here and there, but the general shape is pretty solid.


_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice comparisons. Smile Draping is definitely an issue with this gown. I can say my sleeves didn't become quite like how I wanted them, and looking back there were things I should have done differently. But we learn and grow.

Will you be using the cream fabric as a pattern when done with the draping and marking?
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Leia (Vera Campbell)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I transferred it to paper so I could true it up Smile
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
rebelshaven.blogspot.com
verdaera.deviantart.com
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View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Leia (Vera Campbell)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 07 Jan 2003
Posts: 1326

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Gold Star (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone who knows me knows I project-hop a lot. When I couldn't get this costume done for an event, it went on the back burner and I've been low-key fiddling with the necklace on the side. I also have the dress mostly put together.

At first I tried to sculpt the necklace out of clay, but it was too malleable. So after a bit of research, I switched to jewelers wax. There's 3 different kinds, I went with the hardest kind that holds sharp details. I've never carved before, but I'm pretty proud of how this came out.


Now I have to carve out the back and hope I don't break it in the process. I'm going to make it a bit thicker than the original since my first one will be in cold-cast resin, but I'd like to eventually build a forge and make it in aluminum or pewter. Maybe real silver a piece at a time, if it comes out identical enough. My molding experience is very very new, though, so I'm not entirely sure how I want to build the silicone mold.
_________________

Costumer of the Year - 2010
Current Build Threads: Meadow Gown: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=100662
Ceremonial Leia: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=986837#986837
rebelshaven.blogspot.com
verdaera.deviantart.com
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2469
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Casting is something I'd like to try out some day, so I'll be watching your process with interest here.
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In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
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