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Amilyn Holdo costume standards discussion
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:15 am    Post subject: Amilyn Holdo costume standards discussion Reply with quote

The movie is now out. I went to see it yesterday and found that I spent all my time when Amilyn was on screen trying to figure out the color of her costume.

We have had one of these costumes approved and have another one submitted so I feel it is time to start a discussion on this costume standard.

There are decidedly two different looks to this costume. The color portrayed in the Vanity Fair layout
and
how the costume appears on screen.

I will confess that I am really quite confused about the color really. The only thing that I can come up with is that the fabric used shifts dramatically while in motion and under different light.

The wig renders a similar color whenever it is seen as I am guessing the human or synthetic hair used in the wig does not shift color as dramatically as does the dress fabric.

Where generally, the color looks more "brown" in the movie, I noticed a few times when the character moved on screen that you saw the decidedly more purple-mauve (what color would you call it) that is seen in the Vanity Fair layout.

My GUESS (and it is only a guess) is that the Vanity Fair layout is rendering the color a little more accurately?

Also, at times during the movie, the large hood on the back appeared to be a different color...and then...in the next scene...it looked the same color.

I am of the opinion that we will not know what color this dress is truly until it is seen in person...
and we don't know if that will ever happen.

So...
let the discussion begin...

I will be going out to purchase the Visual Dictionary for TLJ and see what I can find in that book...

in the meantime...
these are the images I have





the color of the hood looks slightly different from the dress in this one




the earrings can be seen in this one


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Toda ()
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the VD yesterday and I would say that I agree with you that the VF color, the movie itself and the VD all seem different. In the VD, I would say the color is almost an olive brown the VF seems different but not by much. The on-screen color seems a bit lighter...oh boy...
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Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't see it shift all that much, I think it is brown, maybe a grayish brown. It isn't purple, I'm sure of that. And I don't think Vanity Fair should be used a reference. Sure it was a great photo, but it's not screen accurate.

I kept staring at the back of her neck, is there some sort of closure there? I think there would have to be. Perhaps an invisible zipper was used. Or hooks and eyes on the inside, or a snap flap. Geez, I don't know. LOL

I think the bracelets should be required, hopefully we can get a close up.
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silvermitt ()
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about this? The fabric may not be exactly right, as I think it's thinner and has more cling to it, but the color is dead on, to my eyes.

http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/Muted-Brown-Mauve-100-Cotton-T-Shirt-Knit-69W.html

After seeing the movie, I want to do this character as well. Despite my kids insisting on it because it's "purple" (I have a very long wip of Zam Wesell), but because I admire the strength of this character greatly. I honestly found her character to be the most inspiring in the whole cast, Leia aside.
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Granny-Wan (Marie Cannon)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great color. And I'm pretty sure it needs a knit fabric.
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Postedby_RA (Rosalie van Beek)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bracers ( exact same ones. Only in gold.) can be found on ebay.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Retro-Ethnic-Women-Men-Geometric-Hollow-Cuff-Bangle-Wide-Big-Bracelet-Punk-Gift/292371604498?_mwBanner=1&epid=8011519846
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both of the Amilyn costumes so far state they are "Vanity Fair"....

We do have some standards that do allow for different colors....

for example

RFT helmets can be gray because that is what they REALLY were or white because that is what the color rendered on screen

Or jumpsuits/flightsuits from ANH for Yavin Techs...they can be gray or even cream because that is what the color rendered on screen and on some screen captures...
but..
the "Costumes of the Original Trilogy" book stated that they were in fact tan...
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Postedby_RA (Rosalie van Beek)
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts about this fabric?

(From the Dutch Translation: Tricot Taupe Pink.)


https://www.destoffenkraam.nl/stoffen/tricot/nb-2194-367-tricot-tauperoze/
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Granny-Wan wrote:
That's a great color. And I'm pretty sure it needs a knit fabric.


It’s absolutely a knit, it wouldn’t be remotely possible with woven fabric.

The way I see it, the Vanity Fair looks like the less accurate photo. Check out the actress’s skin tone: it look old like the photo is enhanced to dial up the saturation and contrast, which really makes the draping in the back look even more dramatic!

This is the costume I’m most interested in making, but I feel like I’ve really jumped down the rabbit hole with research. I keep getting more questions than answers!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm buying it. If it needs to have a bit more mauve-purple added, it can be added. But this stuff looks exactly like the one on screen. Going to ask Leah D'Andrea for an opinion; She's made this already.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off
....
thank you all so very much for taking part in this discussion....
it helps a LOT!!!


again...
as noted...
I am of the opinion that we will not know what color the costume really is unless it is seen in person.

I also did actually see the color shift in the movie as I was laser focused on the dress whenever the character was on screen...

I am really stunned that Vanity Fair would be so very far off....these are big time professsional photographers.

I am at a loss....
but...
again...
I ask the question ...



should there be a Vanity Fair AND a screen accurate/photo versions?

and...
to all the folks posting fabrics ....

great work!! so many questions...


Very Happy
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Last edited by Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte) on Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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Postedby_RA (Rosalie van Beek)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve ordered 4 samples, but the 3th one on this picture seems to be quite accurate


http://i64.tinypic.com/2ivgrc5.jpg

[img]http://i64.tinypic.com/2ivgrc5.jpg[/img][/img]
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Tari (Philippa Lory)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The colour is very difficult to pick. As stated above in the movie it shifts a lot. I know when I took my approval shots my fabric changed greatly depending on whether it was in natural or artificial light. I used natural as it showed the wig colour the best. There's definitely an invisible zip in the neck closure as that's the cleanest way of getting that seam. I don't imagine the vanity fair dress and film versions would be different but only seeing the costume in person would give the true colour. At this stage it's best guess and going by the few shots we have.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my theory about the Vanity Fair photoshoot. You have an awesome dress to photograph and it's a dull neutral color with a touch of purple in it. Not highly noticeable until you put it with another item with purple (wig). You have a grey background on which to shoot your pictures and you KNOW this costume will be lost in the grey. So, you shoot the pictures, and in editing, you color saturate the costume and it's wearer to stand out better.

I'm not complaining about this as it's a very nice image to look at and it gives extremely good detail about the dress itself. I just think it isn't the true color. And sure, we won't know for certain until someone see it in person and can get true lighting images of it, or they display it someplace for several somebodies to verify this dress coloring. But I'm going by movie screen coloring, just to be safe.

For what it's worth, I've had a devil of a time over the colors of Zam Wesell. AND I saw the actual costume in Cincinnati this past fall. Problem with the costume on display? It's 15 years old, and I don't think everyone who puts it together at the various museums do so the correct way. So there is loss there on that aspect of visuals. Also, it's faded so badly and parts of the shoes are not there when I saw it. Point is, I'm not sure we'll get true concrete proof that it's one way or the other unless we get another book of swatches like the one issued for the Prequels.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve found an article where they interviewed the designer who made Holdo her outfit

The color is Puce (And from Jersey) and he got the inspiration from
Madame Gres

https://www.google.nl/amp/s/www.hollywoodreporter.com/amp/news/last-jedi-costume-designer-his-inspiration-1068776
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