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Scarif Rebel Trooper (Private Yosh Calfor)
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 4:32 am    Post subject: Scarif Rebel Trooper (Private Yosh Calfor) Reply with quote

I was just approved with my Private Yosh Calfor costume. I did have to make an important correction which I will detail in this tutorial. I am planning on posting all pertinent photos and will do my best to post sources for the items I bought.

I will start with the main reference photos I used for my costume:




Now the bits and pieces (not in any particular order):

Base Boot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVZBPJA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Gaiters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-SWISS-ARMY-SURPLUS-BLACK-LEATHER-GAITERS-CAMPING-MOTORCYCLE-SPATS-LEGGINGS/271965593142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Rit DyeMore Chocolate Brown: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UL9GRJI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Russian Gorka BDU (for the top): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AV407CK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Grenade Vest: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V3WTTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


M1 Helmet and Liner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DH6CP7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Rubber Bands for the Helmet (I cut mine to half width): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boy-Scouts-Camping-Rubber-Bands-Black-9-Flat-5-8s-Wide-063-Wall-1-Band/261750382212?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Right Side Pouch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-AK-47-magazine-POUCH-RUSSIAN-U-S-CHINESE-lot-2/112263583800?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Military Style Roll Pin Belt: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILITARY-ROLL-PIN-BELT-AIRBORNE-ALL-COLOURS-SILVER-OR-BLACK-BUCKLE/291991515159?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Tru-Spec Brown BDU: http://tacticalgear.com/tru-spec-poly-cotton-ripstop-bdu-pants-brown?hp=y&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI66mjy8eD2AIVElgNCh0tiw6vEAQYASABEgImHvD_BwE#/26387/1058,2551/1&dl=b


French grenade pouch: https://www.armyandoutdoors.co.nz/products/french-canvas-triple-grenade-pouch


Rogue One Helmet Kit which included the donut, torch, deathstick box, strap camera and decals. Cristofer is great to deal with and will answer any questions you might have: http://goldenarmor.com/rebel-solider/tag/rogue-one-helmet-kit

I 3d printed the gun and used Ronan75's design found on Thingiverse. Another great guy to deal with and get answers from: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2485073

This is my printed and weathered gun: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:412368

I also used gel super glue, 5-minute epoxy, Painters Tape, 77 Spray Adhesive, Tulip Color Shot Instant Fabric Color Black, Rust-Oleum Camouflage 1919 Deep Forest Green Ultra Flat, Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Black, Rust-Oleum 2X Satin Apple red, Rust-Oleum Metalic Finish 7718 Chrome, Rust-Oleum 2X Matte Clear, Rust-Oleum Black Satin, Black Shoe polish, 3/4" PVC, (2) 3/4" PVC Caps, black acrylic paint, gun metal acrylic paint, 1/2" foam pipe insulation.

The first thing I did was print all the A300 gun parts from the files I downloaded from Thingiverse. the gun design is unique as the designer made it so you stick a piece of 3/4" pvc the full length of the gun. Only a small piece of the PVC is visible as part of the stock. this design feels very strong. I printed the parts with 30% infill. I then took the parts to a friends shop and did a slight bit of sandblasting and then rinsed them off. This picture is of the parts in the box, including the PVC. Note I actually used two pieces of PVC as I felt I had more control on the build:


After rinsing:


I decided to use 5-minute epoxy for the gun assembly. I used PLA when printing which normally I use super glue, but I wanted this model to be very strong for the abuse it might take form drops, handling, etc. The 5-minute Epoxy allows one to 'weld' the joints once it's set and basically fill in voids where the super glue just doesn't have enough mass to do that and also super glue tends to be brittle.

This picture show the two stock pieces glued to the shorter PVC Piece:


These next photos shows the assembly which I was able to do in one evening:





I put a string on a cut-off tooth pick in the end of the barrel before gluing it on, This would be used for painting:


Big gun!


Hanging the gun from the string to paint:


Painted with Black Satin. Wonder what the neighbors thought!


Taped off the barrel and used the chrome paint. It was probably a bit more shiny than it should have been but in the end it all worked out!


Took the gun to my son who is kind of a costume expert. he is a member of the 501st with 2 costumes and the Mando Mercs with a well, Mando!


His method involves using acrylic paints and toilet paper. He squirts some paint out on a surface and dips with the TP then he rubs it on and off until the desired effect is achieved. He used acrylic black and acrylic gun metal. I believe he did a great job on my gun!


Luckily I live near Plano Illinois as in where Plano Molding's HQ is and so I went to their outlet store and bought a rifle case for $17 to carry this masterpiece in without getting in trouble!

===============================================
This next section will be the helmet build.

When I first started contemplating making this costume, I found an M1 Helmet and Liner Replica which is what I ordered from amazon and because I had cash back from a credit card, it only cost me $5. This is the helmet I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DH6CP7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In hindsight knowing what I know now, I would not have gone that route. The place where I bought the other helmet components from also offers a formed (plastic) helmet which would probably be much more comfortable and more importantly lightweight. I still might buy a second kit. This is where I got that kit: http://goldenarmor.com/rebel-solider/tag/rogue-one-helmet-kit

I will show my pictures of my build but first I would recommend you watching the videos from the guy I bought my helmet components from. I followed almost everything he did for my build with one exception. On the soft cover he used coffee and tea and I just didn't want to do that so I used paint to weather mine and I will explain later.

Before continuing, watch these two videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPc5eoUAcw0&t=6s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAPatVDe0fk

All the details are in those videos. I used exactly the paint and glue he used of which I listed at the beginning of this thread. If you are skipping the videos, please go back and watch them!

First all the parts from the kit are resin, so sand those down before painting. I actually forgot to sand the Deathstick Box and had to re-work it a bit.

I had to glue the torch which consisted of 5 parts. I used gel superglue for this assembly.


I then painted all the parts as per the video instructions and as follows:




After the paint was dry, I glued the torch to the side of the helmet, again as per the video instructions. I used painters tape to hold it in place while the initial glue set.


I then used a bunch of 5-minute epoxy to further secure the torch to the helmet and let that dry completely. I used multiple layers of 5-minute epoxy.


I also glued the tiny lens on the front of the helmet with superglue.


After the Deathstick Box was dry, I taped it and put a red stripe on it.




Something I did not take a picture of but you can see the technique in the video is after gluing the parts onto the helmet, you then do a bit of 'dirtying' by positioning your flat black spray can about 3~5 feet from the helmet and just give it a mist. I really liked how that worked!

Then, also as per the video, you take a paint brush, an inch or two wide and cut the bristles down so they are only maybe 1/2" or so from the brush handle. You spray some silver paint on some cardboard and dip the brush in and just dab around the helmet to get the worn paint look. Concentrate on where you think paint might wear off. The effect is awesome.


Put the Decal on and give it a quick spray of flat black (3~5 feet away) and then take the rubber bands and put those on and secure the Deathstick Box.
Note in these photos you can also see where I dabbed the silver paint on the torch and on the Deathstick Box to also give it a scratched/worn appearance.




There are also some door screen that get glued in the helmet for all the openings. In the next series of pictures you will see them. The kit maker suggested to use ordinary screen material and just use the spray 77 glue. That didn't work out for me so I used dog screen which is plastic so easier to glue. I used superglue for that. I also glued the strap camera with superglue. Again, using the technique in the video I used spray 77 for the fabric onto the M1 helmet as well as the liner and the donut. Wtach the video to see that detail. I used the same flat black paint technique to dirty up the fabric on the helmet and it looks good. I might add some more as I see in the photos its not too pronounced.








That completes the helmet.
===============================================
Now for the boots

For the boots I was originally going to go with replica WWII US Combat boots of which I even ordered a pair but when I got them I realised I just couldn't get myself to modify a pair of $150 boots. I chose instead to keep those for myself and find another solution.

I bought these boots from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVZBPJA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I then ordered some Gaiters from Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-SWISS-ARMY-SURPLUS-BLACK-LEATHER-GAITERS-CAMPING-MOTORCYCLE-SPATS-LEGGINGS/271965593142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


I got some black shoe polish and polished the boots to black.


Then I wore them around a bit to wear them in.




I had some old leather boots and cut some of that leather off to make the little holsters on the right ankle of the gaiters. I decided to rivet them on. I used aluminum rivets with washers, 3 on each side and 2 in the middle.


I needed to come up with something to put in those little holsters so I used some more of the 3/4" PVC and bought two caps. I then ground the lettering off the caps, super-glued them to the pvc and painting with the chrome paint.



That's it for the boots!
===============================================

The next section is the vest.

This is one I had to correct and while being judged I realized it had to be fixed so I will detail everything I did for the vest and the issue I ran into along with the solution which ultimately helped me to get approved.

This vest is very green!


I need to get it to be black with brown trim and tabs. I decided to use Rit DyeMore as it can dye polyester and then some. This stuff will dye pretty much any kind of plastic or any material!


Get water to just below boiling and then put the article in the water and keep it moving! So 30 minutes of doing this:


Once done I hung it outside overnight to dry.


Now that pesky yellow over the right chest! stuff in a bag and tape it up and spray with yellow krylon which didn't want to stick. Took a few coats.


looking good!


thought it was done until I submitted my photos which were taken in a very bright (florescent) school cafeteria. The green from the original color was showing through and the brown was hard to detect. Definitely not black as it was supposed to be and also the issue the judge was having for accepting my costume!


I went to Wally World and found some fabric paint. Tulip Color Shot Instant Fabric Color. While I was there in the store I googled it and found their website and was able to get into a chat session with their support people and verified it would work on polyester.


Now to the effort of taping the vest. The trim and tabs were a nice brown. I taped just the top of the tabs and tucked them into their respective pockets along with the filler pipe insulation. I also taped all the trim which was a bit time consuming.


As soon as the paint hit the fabric, I could really see the difference!


All done....wait 30 minutes.


Had to take a peek!


OK now this is the way it's supposed to look!



thats it for the vest!
===============================================
One final item is to remove the sleeve pockets from the Gorka BDU top. easy to do, just carefully use a seam ripper and when you get to the elbow pad, carefully cut the fabric off.

Also for the belt and the pouches I weathered and dirtied those by using the black paint (3~5 feet away) mist method.

===============================================
That's it folks! Weeks of work all neatly wrapped into a little tutorial. I hope this helps you out and please feel free to ask questions! I may not have all the answers but if you are stuck I might be able to help!

If you wish to view all the photos of my build including many I didn't put in this post, go here: http://s168.photobucket.com/user/stugpanzer/library/Rogue%20One%20Rebel%20Trooper
===============================================

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nrisvang ()
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wauw excellent.

I am doing a similar build ( all though, as having served 20 years in the army, toting the M1,I am going with a Soft top variant).

Based in Europe, I am hoping to be able to source the "Dying stuff" for the vest, as I se this colour transformation as the most difficult thing.
Thanks for sharing
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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Joined: 25 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nrisvang wrote:
Wauw excellent.

I am doing a similar build ( all though, as having served 20 years in the army, toting the M1,I am going with a Soft top variant).

Based in Europe, I am hoping to be able to source the "Dying stuff" for the vest, as I se this colour transformation as the most difficult thing.
Thanks for sharing


Found this in the UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rit-Dye-Synthetic-7oz-Chocolate-Multicoloured/dp/B00UL9GRJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513255109&sr=8-1&keywords=rit+dyemore+chocolate+brown
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nrisvang ()
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers Mate, put in an order, and ìll give it a shot.
Dying the Vest is the "biggest issue" i feel.( well, that´s until my pictures hits approval that is)
Contacted " Goldenarmor", and i have one of their Buckets on order. The Vacume formed inner and outer sealed the deal for me... ( really didn´t want to troop the OG M1)

Wauw... I´m stoked.. can´t wait for my "bits and Bobs" to arrive. Will have to fire up my own WIP soon.

Thanks for all your help
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Ronan (Jon)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome, job. glad I could help. Ive also uploaded my newest version too. Welcome to the Legion.
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nrisvang wrote:
cheers Mate, put in an order, and ìll give it a shot.
Dying the Vest is the "biggest issue" i feel.( well, that´s until my pictures hits approval that is)
Contacted " Goldenarmor", and i have one of their Buckets on order. The Vacume formed inner and outer sealed the deal for me... ( really didn´t want to troop the OG M1)

Wauw... I´m stoked.. can´t wait for my "bits and Bobs" to arrive. Will have to fire up my own WIP soon.

Thanks for all your help


That's excellent! Can't wait to see your progress! I trooped tonight for a few hours for the Last Jedi opening and the helmet wasn't that bad for me but probably before summer (warm weather) I will look at changing out to the vacu-formed m1 as well!

Cristofer at Golden Armor will take care of you and his stuff is top notch! Just follow his videos and you will be ok.

Ping me anytime for any questions you might have about how I did things and I will be glad to help where I can!
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ronan wrote:
Awesome, job. glad I could help. Ive also uploaded my newest version too. Welcome to the Legion.


OK Folks, this is the man for me! Designed a wonderful A300 for 3d printing and I got lots of compliments this evening while trooping with it!

Thanks Jon!
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twhigham (Troy Whigham)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a slightly different route but ended up in the same place.



I bought a GORKA 4 BARS that came with pants and suspenders, so I used those pants. I modified them by removing the shin reinforcement fabric and using that to make the knee pads, then dyed the pants chocolate brown using RiT dye for synthetic fabrics.

https://armada-store.com/russian-modern-army/russian-camouflage/gorka-suits/gorka--bars.html

I used this same bath to dye the vest, which I then sprayed black and retouched the trim in a chocolate brown wash for weathering. I painted the yellow ID panel and then shot some flat back spray paint around the edges for weathering effect there, too.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/alleghenyoutlet?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

I already had a helmet, so I bought 2 covers off eBay, removed the Velcro attachment points, used one as my base and used the other to make the padding down the central panel.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-PASGT-M88-Tan-Helmet-Cover-Military-Swat-Airsoft-Paintball-Combat-Gear-/361515738611?hash=item542c0465f3

Blast shield came from Allen Amis, and I added Velcro to the inside of the front part as security to keep it from slipping off the helmet and shattering on the tile/concrete floor that is so popular at conventions.

I'm using repro WW2 roughouts from www.AtTheFront.Com, heavily treated with Sno-Seal for water repellency, because I had them and they have the right profile, particularly the soles. The laces are hidden by the Swiss gaiters.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SWISS-ARMY-SURPLUS-BLACK-LEATHER-GAITERS-CAMPING-MOTORCYCLE-SPATS-LEGGINGS/302463375690?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used this belt, but I bought the Sand color version. I'm just too lazy to go back and find it in their store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLCE-Issue-Webbing-Belt-Olive-With-Roll-Pin-Buckle-NEW/121602365976?hash=item1c5010da18:m:msvZ4MfflBA8t_mj2NarpEA

British P58 pouches on the back, but regrettably my seller is sold out and no longer has the bid up. Here's the link to the store in case they get any back in.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/suzyssurplus-ishkabiblemoney?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

Mess kit pouch, which I dyed navy blue using RiT dye for cotton and painted using latex paints I already had on hand:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yugoslavian-Mess-Kit-Previously-Issued-Military-Surplus-with-Storage-Pouch-/181604109436?rsta=en_US

The French three-pouch grenade rig came from a buddy, David Glenn, Jr., who ordered two; one for his Endor kit and one for me.

My rifle is the popular Nerf rifle, repainted.

https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Captain-Exclusive-Roleplay/dp/B01LXS39KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513708632&sr=8-1&keywords=star+wars+Cassian+blaster+gun

I disassembled it to tape off the lighted part, primed it with Rustoleum automotive gray primer, then sprayed it with Rustoleum Metallic Bright Silver. I removed the little hatch cover behind the scope, took the other snap-on parts off (scope, butt stock, barrel), then stood over the receiver and let Rustoleum flat black "fall" onto the silver to give it a metallic alloy look. I then sprayed the flat black on certain areas to make it look heat-effected, then clear-coated everything with Rustoleum automotive clear coat, let that cure, then sprayed flat black over the clear coat where parts would be normally flat, like the scope caps and butt stock plates. Then I snapped the little hatch cover back on, because I wanted it to look like different alloy, and reassembled it. I touched up a few areas, then added a Mosin Nagant sling with the dog collars around the barrel and butt stock attachment point. Eventually I want to either modify the scope or replace it with 3D printed parts, but it'll work for now. In some events, I can't carry the rifle anyway due to security concerns, like this outdoor event with the USMC Toys for Tots drive at Wal-Mart. A man in camo carrying a very big rifle would raise security concerns, so I left it in the truck.



I added the Rebellion/Resistance pin on the front of my blast shield (took some material from a web belt and pinned the pin to it, then tucked it under the rubber camo band) specifically for this event, to avoid Stolen Valor issues, but people still thanked me for my service. Oh well. I had also added a Slave Leia pin as a tribute to Carrie Fisher, which I put on the back so that I'd be identified as "Star Wars" from behind as well as from the front. The USMC guys liked that pin. I'll probably leave it on since it looks like something a Rebel soldier would put on his helmet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-Star-Wars-Princess-Leia-as-Jabbas-Slave-Cloisonne-Metal-Pin-1993-UNUSED/361452556383?epid=1632984175&hash=item542840505f:g:26MAAOSwZ1lWdaKE

Since there are so few pics of the back of the kit, I figured I'd post it up here for reference.



The little plastic tab that Amis uses to attached the "torch tube" to the blast shield cracked on mine, so I replaced it with thin metal flashing left over from a radiator hose I had sitting around in the garage. The metal is hidden behind the torch tube and should be more durable. If someone does see it, it looks authentic enough to look like it belongs there.

I like your ankle holster idea. I may go back and do that to mine.

EDIT: Giving credit where credit is due - I had Elizabeth Martinez of Scarlett Stitchery modify my helmet cover and fabricate the knee pads, since she has a sewing machine. I can sew, but only by hand, and that type of work would've been far too tedious.
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Troy Whigham
OT X-wing Pilot
R1 Scarif Marine
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Troy,
Excellent write-up! I believe this thread will help many and give alternative options! Thanks for posting!

The following are more detailed photos of the boot holsters.

This is the first piece I tested the rivets with. This rivet was not long enough but this shows you the dimensions I used:



I used aluminum rivets backed with washers. In these two photos you can see that I used a paint marker to color the rivets black. i didn't fully color them as I wanted a bit of a worn look:



I used Gorilla Glue Duct Tape on the back of the gaiters to prevent my ankle from getting scratched or rubbed by the rivets:

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nrisvang ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regarding the dyeing of the west.
Did you put the "rit dye" in tha water before heating, or when the water is hot??

Have recieved most of my goods, and am starting to "put it together"
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twhigham (Troy Whigham)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the method I used, and the instructions:

https://www.ritdye.com/techniques/the-basics/stovetop-technique/

You heat the water, then add the dye. I bought a stainless steel pot from a thrift store and used that for the dye bath. The first time I tried to dye my vest, I just used a plastic bucket out in the yard and carried hot water from the kitchen. The dye worked, but not as well as I had hoped because I couldn't keep the water at a constant temperature. So, I went and bought a used stainless steel pot and "cooked" the dye on the stove. That worked much better. I also bought used steel tongs to rotate the fabric in the pot.
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nrisvang ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Bro.

I´ll ake sure to follow your method.
Now i just need a big steel pot and some thongs. :-)
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twhigham (Troy Whigham)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more thing: when you're done with the dye, don't just pour it out onto the yard. I did that and killed my landscaping. Sad
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nrisvang ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Roger that. I guess the kitchen sink is a better option then.
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stugpanzer (David Kurtz)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also be careful if you are pouring it down a porcelain sink as it can stain that sink. If you have Stainless, then no problems.
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The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2018 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


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