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Painting Rebel Donut "Mustard Technique" test

 
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OddViking ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 1:53 pm    Post subject: Painting Rebel Donut "Mustard Technique" test Reply with quote

I have my donut ordered from Droidwelder, and I wanted to test the "mustard technique" on something before I do it on my actual donut. The mustard technique that someone talked about on these boards is a way of getting the aged/chipped paint look on the edges and dents on a painted "metal" prop. This technique could work on Boba Fett armor, and many other painted Star Wars props as well. Because I couldn't find any tutorial on it, I did a quick test myself.

I wanted to mimic the material of a vaccuform plastic shape that the donut will be so started with a blister pack package from small padlock hinge from the hardware store. This part doesn't matter as much, it was just something in the garbage that would work.

First, primed it black, and then sprayed it with Rustoleum Metalic silver paint. Spray paint is "dry" in a few hours, buy this technique should require really well cured paint. Let the silver layer dry for at least 24 hours, until it feels smooth (not at all tacky) and hard.
Then, using a small paint brush (and also the tube from a ball point pen to get the circles), I dabbed French's Yellow Mustard on all of the points that I wanted to chip back to Silver. The mustard will keep the top paint from adhering well to those spots:





I let this mustard dry for a few hours, until it looked totally matte.

Then I used the green spray paint (Krylon Italian Olive Satin) over the top a few quick coats to cover, and let this dry. You can even see the mustard patterns underneath:





Let that dry 24 hours. Once it feels totally cured, it is time to get the paint off of the mustard. Here I had read that you just use a scrub sponge and running water, but that didn't work at all for me. I then tried a small non-serrated butter knife under running water to gently scrape the spots of mustard, and the paint came right off, in almost exactly the way I planned. It isn't perfectly precise on tiny details, but does mimic wear-patterns very well:



I learned a few things on this, so I was glad I did it. I can't wait to do it on my donut, and I will post progress pics in this thread when I am done.


Last edited by OddViking () on Mon Apr 16, 2018 2:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im glad you did this.

ive been telling people for years

TEST TEST TEST

few listen..many gripe.

You've learned volumes, and you've also shown volumes.

Thank you for posting this.

Investigate Salt weathering too--its similar and used by modelers using large grain salt. I used it for my Slave1 model.
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Ritin Kornas ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great tutorial ! Smile
Actually I just find it's a waste of mustard Razz (one of my favorite ingredient) !
I knew this method for a while. It can also be nice if you want to paint the inside of details one color and top layer other color. You fill the indent with a paste after putting the color you want.

What you could use also it toothpaste Wink it will be similar. Except it will not be greasy which could make the cleaning easier.
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DroidWelder ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the mustard technique is a good way to simulate "corroded" metal if you apply it in a very thin layer.
It looks like you applied it pretty heavy which gave the desired look for the Donut.
The Donut should not look like it has much corrosion on it. A battered look is what you really want, so lay it on thick!

When I am detailing a Donut, I think about how it gets all of the little dings, paint chips, and scratches that it should have.
The majority of these are not going to come from being in battle. They will come from every day use.
It's most likely that each soldier will have some sort of foot locker or storage tub that their gear goes into when not being worn.
At the end of the day, the first thing that comes off will be the helmet. It will get thrown into the tub, and then everything else will get thrown in on top of it.

One thing about the screen used Donuts that doesn't seem very realistic to me is that they usually have the paint on almost all the edges and corners chipped away, but you don't see hardly any chips or scratches in the field areas. You only see the large Battle type damage in the field areas.
So I prefer to add a certain amount of scratches and paint chips in the field areas too.




I'll admit that I've never used the mustard technique on any of my Donuts.
I have detailed them all by hand using a silver paint pen.
Unfortunately, the paint pen that I liked the most was discontinued a couple years ago and
I've had a difficult time finding another good one that didn't have a really high price.
Most of the other available paint pens don't work very well.

David L.
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navarre1095 (CHARLES GRAY)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I often use either mustard or toothpaste. Both work work really well if you're wanting to make something look like it has been primed and painted. I prime, then put down a layer of silver. I prime it again and then put down the O.D. I take a toothpick and move the edges of the mustard a bit between layers.
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Tom_Kness ()
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've heard of the method but have always been afraid of staining from the mustard
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OddViking ()
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can see how it turned out in my finished build:

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=88040

There was no staining of the silver paint, it washed off easily enough.[/url]
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Chukzilla ()



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If using a condiment is a sin, then you can use hand lotion instead.
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navarre1095 (CHARLES GRAY)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom_Kness wrote:
I've heard of the method but have always been afraid of staining from the mustard

It does stain the silver a bit. I think it makes it look like some parts of the metal have been exposed longer.
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