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ANH Old 'Ben' Obi Wan Kenobi Costume Fabric with Darns

 
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kdkdesign ()
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 4:19 am    Post subject: ANH Old 'Ben' Obi Wan Kenobi Costume Fabric with Darns Reply with quote

The following is my personal research findings and completed commissioned costume build (for my dad) for a movie accurate ANH Old 'Ben' Obi Wan Kenobi Costume in accurate heavy silk fabric and complete with 6 'false' handsewn darns, plus brown wool robe. As for me, I have advanced degrees in costume construction and apparel design, and I've taught college level fashion design courses, so I love researching and enjoy the opportunity to help others better understand costume construction.

The first major hurdle, as with many costumes you desire to be movie accurate, was finding the right fabric for the inner robe, tabors, and obi. In this case in particular, the actual fabric used in the movie largely influences the construction of the final garments, as I'll explain later.

I spent a long time looking, and relooking, googling every combination of search words I could think of to describe the silk fabric used in the movie, until I finally found a medium/heavy silk fabric that matched the movie practically perfectly. The width was only 45" so I needed a lot of it, ~7 yards.

Here's a Swatch of the fabric I found:


This silk fabric has a 'ribbed' texture that runs the width of the fabric. But on the costume you can tell that the ribbed texture runs the length of the robe and the stole tabors. Therefore the fabric grain (the lengthwise direction of the fabric) on the robe and stole must run horizontal on the body, rather than typically vertical. Please review the diagrams I made below to explain the direction of the fabric's ribbed texture vs the fabric's grain.



The shorter fabric width (45") requires a horizontal seam around waist level to add on to the length of the robe. This does limit the overall length of the robe as it can only be 3x the width of the fabric (without additional seams), less seam and hem allowances. But there is an advantage to having the length of the fabric running the length of the arms as this allows the sleeve length to be as long as needed from hand to hand and eliminates the need for armhole seams so it is a true kimono style cut garment.

The fabric width also limits the maximum length of the stole, which is not explained in the picture, but basically the stole can only be as long as the fabric is wide because the direction of the ribbing is running the length of the stole. It also affects the length of the obi, but you can add on more length to the obi in the back (which I had to do for my dad).

It was easier to find the fabric for the brown wool robe - it wasn't 100% wool but a wool/nylon mix and the right look and color. I constructed it with screen accurate construction with seam lines on the sides, shoulders, armseyes, bottom side of sleeves, center back, and the back side of the pointed hood with raw edge cut hems on hood, front opening, and bottom hem. I also included my signature 'saber blade pocket' on the inside side seam to store your blade when it's not attached to your hilt.



For my dad's initial submission, I completed all the silk parts and the brown wool robe (made from a wool melton fabric). (He got his belt from another vendor). His first costume submission was approved without any changes needed.





Later, I added the 6 false handsewn darns onto the main inner silk robe. Here's is our research of the location, size, and shape of the darns:



And here is my final version of the silk garments, complete with 6 false darns I hand-sewed myself with a wool yarn in the right locations and the right shapes/sizes, especially the main right shoulder patch.



The next improvement we need to do is make the brown undershirt with the Russian Cossack style collar (currently my dad is just wearing a store bought brown mock turtleneck, which is acceptable in the standards). He also wants to go to the local dunes and roll around it the sand to roughen up the silk robes some more. But he says that the silk is so very comfortable to wear as it breathes so well. He's not ever cleaned it but just airs it out. He gets the wrinkles out be throwing it in the dryer with a damp towel.

I would love to make more of these silk robes with darns, if anyone is interested Smile Here's my for sale posting if you want to know pricing and ordering details: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=943747&sid=dc0a6dbb4731e367f4871570251778f7

And you can see more of the costume commissions I do at my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/thecostumemakersguidetothegalaxy/


Last edited by kdkdesign () on Mon May 29, 2017 8:48 pm; edited 9 times in total
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent work and the fabric you've sourced is really really excellent!

Thanks for posting.
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Dusty ()



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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: ANH Old 'Ben' Obi Wan Kenobi Costume Fabric with Darns Reply with quote

kdkdesign wrote:
I would love to make more of these silk robes with darns, if anyone is interested Smile


What is your asking price for something like this?
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kdkdesign ()
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Joined: 11 Sep 2013
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Location: Pendleton, IN
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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: ANH Old 'Ben' Obi Wan Kenobi Costume Fabric with Darns Reply with quote

Dusty wrote:
kdkdesign wrote:
I would love to make more of these silk robes with darns, if anyone is interested Smile


What is your asking price for something like this?


Hi! here's my 'For Sale' listing that details out pricing and how I handle orders: http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=943747&sid=dc0a6dbb4731e367f4871570251778f7

Currently time for completion is estimated at 6-8 weeks, but it could be sooner as I have everything in stock - it's just summer can be very busy as we have a large vegetable garden and fruit trees.


Last edited by kdkdesign () on Sat May 20, 2017 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work. Very Happy
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Ben Kenobi (Paul Moomey)
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job. The silk fabric I found in Toronto Canada is 56" wide and it allowed plenty of length with the weave pattern to make the tabard ("stole") long enough to go around the neck and down either side to the waist where I added the extra length needed to match the movie by adding a horizontal seam on either side that is hidden by the Obi. My outer robe is made with WWII army blankets just as the movie costume. It does make for a hot costume but I have gotten used to it. On the lower part of the inner silk robes I also added gathers on both the right and left sides of the front and back to add fullness to the costume. Without them it would have had a flat look to it. You can see all my notes under the Tutorial section. Good to have another Old Ben in the ranks.

http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48425
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