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Possible ULTIMATE Old Luke cloak material
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Philonius ()
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Initial test-fit of most of the outfit I had done last year (excuse my mess, and crappy footwear):



If I pull the cloak more closed, it does come together. I used a cloth lace stitched to the inside back, and slung under the shoulders (tied in the back), in order to keep the cloak on me. I would just be afraid that a 3/4 would be too much cloak, and Luke's cloak certainly drapes, but it doesn't swallow him up.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Philonius - And you did yours as a single layer of fabric, with the wide front hem and a normal bottom one?

If I don't have to try to hide a second seam, or spend several hundred more dollars to replace the fabric I already have, that's absolutely fine by me! I'm a big guy, so I'll err in the direction of a slightly-more-than-1/2 circle, just to cheat a little more fullness out of it. I can make about 195 degrees and put the one seam right about at knee level at the back.

Single layer, made that way, will leave me plenty of fabric to redo it if I have to - even doing a fat ellipse rather than a circle to provide for my pretty broad shoulders (and thus have it drape down evenly all around to just above floor level), I only need about 144"/4 yards for the main body, plus about 3 for the sliver at the bottom, and another yard for the hood. I have 22 yards, bought when I thought it all had to be self-lined. This linen wasn't gawdawful-expensive, the way the really wide stuff is, but even at $8-something a yard, it adds up. Having a safety margin like that is comforting.
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Philonius ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

erictank wrote:
Philonius - And you did yours as a single layer of fabric, with the wide front hem and a normal bottom one?

If I don't have to try to hide a second seam, or spend several hundred more dollars to replace the fabric I already have, that's absolutely fine by me! I'm a big guy, so I'll err in the direction of a slightly-more-than-1/2 circle, just to cheat a little more fullness out of it. I can make about 195 degrees and put the one seam right about at knee level at the back.

Single layer, made that way, will leave me plenty of fabric to redo it if I have to - even doing a fat ellipse rather than a circle to provide for my pretty broad shoulders (and thus have it drape down evenly all around to just above floor level), I only need about 144"/4 yards for the main body, plus about 3 for the sliver at the bottom, and another yard for the hood. I have 22 yards, bought when I thought it all had to be self-lined. This linen wasn't gawdawful-expensive, the way the really wide stuff is, but even at $8-something a yard, it adds up. Having a safety margin like that is comforting.



I did the main body single layer, the hood double. Yes, there is a wide front hem, and bottom one the same (both about 1"). In one of the production photos, you see a full-length shot of Luke, and some light showing through the cloak. This tells me that at least the main body is definitely single layer... the hood appears to be too, especially looking at the photo in my first post in this thread (Luke with his hood on... a great shot of the material). That one isn't showing any hem on the front edge of the hood, that I can see, possibly the selvage edge of the fabric. My hood on the one I made does seem heavy in retrospect, but if I do double it up with the new handwoven cotton, it won't be so bad.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hood is definitely single layered from what I can see.

Also this heavy weight Dharma Trading fabric is WAY too thick to be doing a fully double layered hood. Trust me, it will be way too heavy.

Here are a few shots of the materials I'll be using to make my own personal Luke TFA Costume.

The Vanilla colored fabric is for the Tunic and while the screen used one appears to be made of Linen, I opted for a really soft brushed cotton for comfort. As a side note, this is the exact same fabric that I used for my Luke ANH Tunic in case anyone was wondering. Fabric was sourced from here:

http://www.sellfabric.com/store/p/566-Vanilla.aspx

The Cream/ Wheat colored Linen will be used for the Robe, Tabards, and Sash. Apparently the color I purchased is no longer available, but they have comparable colors. Fabric was sourced from here:

https://www.fabric.com/find?SearchText=european+washed+linen

The Taupe Dharma Material will be used for the hooded cloak. If you look close you can see that part of it is ironed flat. This material crinkles up when washed and dried which gives it a wonderful texture. With some ironing it will flatten out to look like the screen used fabric. You'll just have to iron it every time you wash it. Fabric was sourced from here but custom dyed by me:

http://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/handspun-handwoven-natural-fabric.html?lnav=fabric.html

DSCN2311 by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr
DSCN2309 by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr
DSCN2308 by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr

I hope this is helpful.

Psab
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Philonius ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Psab, I'm really liking those fabrics, especially the cloak material!

I used a couple linen blends for my tunic, stole, and robe, almost same colors as yours. And a sandy colored linen for the puttees. Just a pair of cream colored thanks for the trousers for now. With 3 weeks left til Celebration and other projects to get done, I'll definitely have to wait to redo the cloak.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!

Trust me the Dharma stuff is really really nice. It softens up too once it's washed and dyed. The drape is excellent too because of the loose weave of the threads. I suspect that they used the selveges of the material for the hood and front edge of the cloak vs. hemming it to give it a seamless look. I know as a staple of Lucas's costume designs from the beginning was to try and hide closures/ fasteners, and use blind hems and such. It seems to be a design element that's carried through all the films and part of what makes the aesthetic so timeless.

For the Luke TFA Cloak I don't seem hems of any kind other than the bottom edge, which reinforces my speculation that the selveges were used for the front of the robe and hood rather than being hemmed. Plus if the production team used the same fabric as us, it would make for a very thick hem because of the weight of the material.
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Blue Leader Canada (Doug Cottrell)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMHO the outer cape fabric is the same silk used on Yoda's outer tunic and Ben Kenobi's under robes; also ROTJ Luke's vest/tabard/obi, and Maul's outer tunic. I've heard this silk go by many names (including Tussah), but it is raw and very rustic looking with a clear one-direction weave. It looks similar to grass wallpaper.

When I made this, I used that Tussah (or whatever) silk for the outer cape, and a raw silk noil to make the sleeveless under robe, obi and tabard.

The pattern of the outer cape is unlike most standard capes and robes. I believe it was achieved by using a long rectangle of fabric, draped over the shoulders, with the selvage edges running down the front. An additional piece of fabric was sewn onto the rear bottom in a half-moon shape. The entire piece has a simple turned up hem. The hood may be self lined with a thin edge of stitching at the front that would not show on camera. I believe there is some horsehair braid or some other stabilizing material to keep the hood in that shape.

Just my two cents.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm definitely with you on the cloak design Doug! It's got to be the selveges instead of hems.
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Philonius ()
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had wondered about the selvages... If it looks OK with the handspun, I'll do it that way.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Psab Keel wrote:
Thank you!

Trust me the Dharma stuff is really really nice. It softens up too once it's washed and dyed. The drape is excellent too because of the loose weave of the threads. I suspect that they used the selveges of the material for the hood and front edge of the cloak vs. hemming it to give it a seamless look. I know as a staple of Lucas's costume designs from the beginning was to try and hide closures/ fasteners, and use blind hems and such. It seems to be a design element that's carried through all the films and part of what makes the aesthetic so timeless.

For the Luke TFA Cloak I don't seem hems of any kind other than the bottom edge, which reinforces my speculation that the selveges were used for the front of the robe and hood rather than being hemmed. Plus if the production team used the same fabric as us, it would make for a very thick hem because of the weight of the material.


So that really would argue for a 1/2-circle cloak, then, wouldn't it? Looking again at that Dharma handspun... I just REALLY wish that it was wider than 45" before washing! How much shrinkage did you get when you washed yours?

And did I miss what color you dyed it? Your photo looks GREAT.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. I'm not sure what it shrunk down too. I never measured it before or after so I couldn't give you a good answer on that. As far as dye goes I dyed it with 1 bottle of RIT Dark Brown and 6 bottles of RIT Taupe and then the dye sealant. It's a lot of dye but in order to get the color vibrant I doubled the amount necessary.

When I get a chance I'll sketch up a quick drawing of the pattern design I think will work for this cloak. It should help eliminate the problem of the fabric not being wide enough and give us the look we are going for.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fabric I'm using for Lukes cloak is a cotton/hemp blend, camel-taupe in color and heavyweight....I want to wash it and was wondering if anyone uses fabric solfener or?????.....LMK what you think
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI - I finally got around to washing and drying the Homespun. After washing and drying, but before ironing, it shrank to just under 31" measured width. Not a typo. Thirty one inches, it shrank by a THIRD. I'll get some of that back once it's ironed, I'm not sure how much yet because I'm being lazy and not doing it right now.

But ironing will be *REQUIRED*.

ETA: After ironing, it's about 37" wide. Lost about 20%.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds about right according to their website. They do warn on a high percent shrinkage on some fabrics.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was nice that it came back up that 6" - I was really nervous when I measured it before ironing and it was down 14" (about 1/3 of original width!).

It's a great-looking fabric, no question.
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