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Schph Gochi's project pile
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well....I am back in the "workshop" to do yet another thing I have been meaning to do for years...
and that is to make a new holster for my favorite Rebel blaster holster belt....

my nutty looking

and
made with a "seat belt" buckle belt...

lol...


I know the belt is a little off the charts...but I have always liked it...and like it much more than the other ones I have made. The holster that came with it was, however, not great. I hope to make a new holster for that belt and try to dye it nearly the same color....

I also dragged my Imperial Officer out of mothballs and wore it the other night to an event...
another thing that I have been meaning to get to for that costume is a different blaster and holster. In the past when I wore the Imperial Officer, I just used my stormtrooper blaster and holster. I wanted to make a holster that would accommodate my DL 44 instead...

When it came to the holster for the DH-17, there were two basic designs I had found and could really not decide between the more squared off version and the more rounded version...
so...
since I had enough leather...
I decided to do both....

so...

I would like to share that journey and reinforce to you that...

1) I have no fancy leatherworking tools

2) I have no clue what I am doing

armed with that knowledge, I urge everyone to give leatherworking a try.


Some information for folks that have not done leatherworking.

Generally for holsters and belts I purchase 7-8 ounce leather. Go here on the Tandy site for some information on buying leather:

https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

Also, when I need tools or dye, I don't hesitate to purchase on-line at Tandy and have it shipped because the nearest Tandy Leather location to my house in Mokena is Elgin IL which is about 2 hours one way....so that is 4 hours on the road and lots of gas and tolls.

BUT

when it comes to buying leather hides, I will generally make the trip to Tandy to hand select the hides. So, since I have spent a lot of time and money to go there, I generally try to pick up as much leather as I can afford.





First step is always a pattern....
leather hides are expensive and you don't want to cut stuff and find that you made a mistake...and once you cut leather...you can't really fix it....
so..
start out with a paper pattern using your blaster as a guide and just play around until you get something that works...

I honestly don't know of anyone offering patterns for these holsters, so if my projects come out ok....I will make patterns available.

So...

First I started playing with paper and the blasters to make some patterns:























When I was happy with the patterns...
I cut them from the piece of leather...trying to waste as little as possible.






again...
like I said...I don't have fancy tools and use a utility knife with a sharp new blade to cut leather and usually I do it on the kitchen counter with a stack of newspapers below.




I will also generally cut the leather a little larger than the pattern..
just in case...
you can always trim away...but can't add if you make a mistake or want to kind of free lance the design a bit...









Here is the curved one being cut out...

take your time on the curves especially when making the first pass through the leather.....after you make your first "pass"....you will generally have to make a couple more passes to get the utility knife blade to go all the way through the thick leather...











After the piece is cut out....it is time to soak the leather in warm water to get it pliable...

the squared off DH-17 piece:





the DL-44 piece:





and the more rounded version for the DH-17:





When the leather is wet and pliable....you start forming it over the blaster itself and checking fit...











While you are wet forming....you can sometimes see things that need to immediately be trimmed...go for it...






The next step after all of your holsters are wet formed is to let them dry really thoroughly....and they will keep their shape once dry....
because after they dry....
I plan to dye them next...


So...here is where I have to stop for the next day or so...
the holsters are drying:



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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice Phyllis! Glad to see you tackling tjis. I have a toy DH17 and want to make a hokster for it so ill be watching this.
I want to carry that with my Y wing rather than my Merr Sonn Power5
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This awesome...and super helpful. I'm thinking of making one for my pilot. I've never been excited with my costume base han rig, but it works (after several modifications myself )
I will definitely be referring to this for insight.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I would go over the "tools of the trade" while stuff is drying...



This is pretty much my entire box of "leatherworking tools" and with these items...you can really do a LOT!







First off for cutting and skiving leather (skiving reduces the thickness of the leather in places where you need it thinner...like maybe for a stitching seam or a snap or in the case of the DL44 holster I have to thin the leather a bit on the part that goes between the scope and the body of the blaster) ...
I use a utility knife and a METAL ruler.....
the skiving tool I have works ok..but am on the lookout for something better.







For hand stitching - I use these tools



On the left is a "wheel" in a wood handle...that does a GREAT job marking the holes to punch for stitching...it has several interchangeable wheels so you can space the holes at a variety of distances.

The next wooden handle is the awl and there are several "blades" in a bag ...you can also change the "blades" in the awl depending on the size stitching hole you need....the points of these awl blades are VERY sharp...watch your hands....lol...they will put a hole right through your finger.

On the bottom is just some plain old leather needles and the sinew used for stitching....it is waxed which really helps things stay taut.



Next is all the stuff needed for snaps, rivets and other fasteners:





different sized rivets for permanently attaching two pieces of leather (in both black and nickel):




The punching sets....I really use the Mini and Maxi punches the most....the sets have changeable tips so you can choose the size hole you need to punch.




Next...a variety of larger snaps.....they come in "line 20 - 22 - and 24"




This tool is used to set snaps....both male and female sides...and ....btw...the piece of soft pine all the way on the left is used under the leather when using the punch...




I use this for cementing together raw or dyed leather pieces to ready them for hand stitching.....found that it does not work well on leather pieces that are "finished" with a sealer...




Then there is dye and wool daubers...




To be honest, after I purchased a variety of these "Eco Flow" dyes from Tandy, I am not really excited about the coverage they give and they have a tendency to streak. I think that the next time I order dye...it will be Fiebings...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fiebing-088-10010-LDYE01P00-Fiebings-Leather-Dye/24816873

I have also tried both the wool daubers and soft rags to apply dye and find the wool daubers to work best.


Lastly I have an assortment of buckle blanks, d-rings and thing-a-ma-jigs....anytime I go to Tandy I usually pick up a few for the "stash"...




That is really pretty much it for tools....
many of these tools are only a couple dollars each...generally between $5.00 and $10.00.



Right now I have a first coat of black dye on the Imperial Officer holster....

after that dries....I will cement together the seam that will be stitched. Cementing the seam REALLY helps. The first holster I made I didn't do that and the leather kept shifting around making the hand stitching process a nightmare....
the second one I made I cemented that seam and ....wow...did it go a LOT easier...
you learn a lot by jumping in and doing...
and by making mistakes...

Laughing
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to start with the black holster for the Imperial Officer first mainly because I have the right color...black...lol...

The other two Rebel DH-17 holsters I have to think about for a while and have been experimenting with the dyes that I have on scrap pieces of leather because I have to try to closely match these holsters to the color of my old belt...not gonna be easy.

Anyway...
the black holster.

Black is easy...it really dyes well...

So after I applied 2 coats of the black dye I started to skive the areas that I was going to cement and then hand sew...



skiving leather is just taking off some of the thickness...




I then applied the leather cement to both pieces that I am going to stitch together...trying to be careful with the cement...I used a Q-tip...






After the cement gets tacky...you stick the two pieces together and press with your fingers well and then let dry...

After I let it dry thoroughly, I used the marking wheel to put in the marks to punch with the awl and then stitch. I generally punch every other mark....I think when I make the RFT holsters I will use the smaller wheel to get the punches closer together...



after the piece is marked, I started to punch the stitching holes with the awl...





After I punched a few holes, I slapped myself in the head and remembered that I wanted to put a rivet at the top and the bottom of the area to be stitched...

so...using the leather punch of about the same size as the shaft on the rivet...I punched a hole at the top and bottom....selected the right length rivets...
and then put them in using the proper pieces from the setting tool kit...









ok...
rivets installed:





Back to punching the holes with the awl and starting the stitching. I used the two needle method:


http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leathercraft-abc/leathercraft-abc-pg4/leathercraft-abc-pg4.aspx












Then I decided to add a strap to hold the blaster in...



I just cut a strip of leather to size...

dyed it...




and started with the snap on the end of the strap...



on the strap...I put the "button" of the snap:







With that on, I gauged where I needed to put the "socket" part of the snap on the body of the holster...and punched the hole




Set the socket ...





Next I had to rivet the other end to the back of the holster....decided on location and punched the hole:





and set the rivet (I did trim some of the excess off the end inside the holster)




and

done





The only thing left to do on this holster is to decide which of a couple different methods of attaching the holster to the belt...

there the two loop method, cutting two vertical slashes in the back and weaving the belt in and out (which I feel will keep the holster in place better) and lastly, adding another piece to the top that would loop over the belt as one piece and snap on...

I am leaning toward the two slashes in the back...

but...for now...I have decided just to contemplate that for awhile...again...once you cut holes in leather...you really can't fix them (I don't know how anyway) so that it can't be seen...
Also need to add sealer to the entire piece.....which I think I am almost out of...so I will really need to order that...
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

moving along to the Rebel holsters...

this time I decided to skive first....and then dye..

squared off version:




rounded version:






Next...I am trying two dying processes.....


The rounded version got a first coat of Canyon Tan color dye and the squared off version got a first coat of Timber Brown





I will let these dry thoroughly overnight...

In this photo, the old holster is in the middle and I am trying to match the color of that holster which matches the belt...





Once the first coats dry...

I am going to apply a second coat of the opposite color...

a coat of Canyon Tan over the Timber Brown
and
a coat of Timber Brown over the Canyon Tan and see what I come up with..
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G'nott sH'urr (David Campbell)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now i am piqued. I've worked with canyon tan and got a streaky orangish tannish color that looked awful. Is the darker tan the feibrings?
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'nott sH'urr wrote:
Now i am piqued. I've worked with canyon tan and got a streaky orangish tannish color that looked awful. Is the darker tan the feibrings?


no..it is not feibings....
it is Tandy Ecoflow...

BUT...what I did was a little mix and match...

On the rounded version I first put a coat of the Canyon Tan and then over that I put 2 coats of Timber Brown...

on the more squared version I put a coat of Timber Brown and then two coats of Canyon Tan.

I have found that the Range Tan (which is another of the two recommended colors for RFT) to be really "orange" while the Canyon Tan has red undertones..

These items have also been soaked in water and wet formed..so maybe that soaking might have some effect also vs just taking a veg tanned piece of leather and putting the dye on without the soaking in water first.

When the pieces get soaked in hot water, there is some brown colored tannin (I guess it is tannin) that does come out of the hide...
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Version #1 is done...



I will still put a satin finish sealer over it...
but otherwise...it is done...
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The black holster is now done. I added the two loops for hanging on the belt by just cutting pieces from scrap leather, dying them and then using rivets to attach.







Next up was going back to the Rebel holsters for the DH-17. As noted, I started with several layers of dye. Timber brown over Canyon Tan and Canyon Tan over Timber Brown in the hopes of getting as close a matching color to my current belt as possible.


I glued the seams that would be stitched first and then I added a rivet at the bottom and the top of both the curved and squared holster.









With both rivets in the squared holster, I then used the marking wheel to mark the holes to punch for hand sewing.

Then the monotony of hand punching with the awl...
my hands are arthritic so this part of the process is difficult for me and I can't keep as good of control as I would like. A suggestion was made that instead of using the awl to hole punch that I use a drill and small diameter bit....that actually sounds like a good idea and I plan to try that on the rounded holster.







I usually cut a piece of the stitching twine/thread that is 4 times the length of the area to be stitched. That is a little excessive but the last thing you want to do is run out of thread before you finish your seam.




I wanted to hide the knot that I make at the end between the layers of leather so I came in at the side seam with the needle.



For the black holster I used the two needle method, but for this holster I used the one needle method ..... skipping one stitch on the first pass down the holster and putting in the second stitch on the return pass.









When I got to the end...making both passes up and down the seam, I once again inserted the needle into the seam, made the small knot and tucked it into the seam.







With that done, I wanted to add the strap to keep the stock of the blaster in the holster. I had cut and dyed the necessary straps and began by putting the button part of the snap on one end of the strap...










I then attached the other end of the strap to the body of the holster with rivets...
marking location and punching the hole







With the strap riveted to the body of the holster and the button part of the snap on the strap, it was time to mark the location on the outer body of the holster to put the other part of the snap and punch the hole then set the snap.







done





Lastly it was time to add the loops to attach the holster to the belt. Again I had measured, cut, and dyed scraps of leather to rivet to the holster.




and done...








My hand stitching is far from perfect and that is mainly due to arthritis and strength in my fingers with the awl. You need to keep the awl firmly in place and punch all the holes at the same angle.

As noted, the curved holster is next and I am going to try the drill method for making the holes....
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at having something ready to mold for our "Costume Party" next month,
I have begun work on a new Endor Commando badge sculpt and at the same time the greeblie for the Biker Scout...as I understand it...the greeblie for the Thermal det on the back of the Biker Scout is actually an Endor Rank badge cut in half..


as with all of this stuff....getting a clear picture of what the original pieces really looked like is difficult...
there are a lot of versions (as I have found out) that are essentially the same....but not really...

I do think that the greeblie for the Scout needs to be less than 3cm tall to fit in the depressed section on the Scout's thermal det...

anyway...
this is me trying to brainstorm both....
the white resin pieces in the photos are my old Endor rank badge and one cut in half to mimic the Scout's.

nothing is glued....it is all guesswork at this time..

















[/quote]
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok...well...
scrapped version #1 and #2 and am now working on three...
this one will be it...
win
lose
draw...

trying to "manufacture" teeny tiny pieces and make them look like they were indeed manufactured is more difficult than one might imagine..

Here is where I am so far with the Endor Trooper rank badge and Scout thermal det greeblie..




On to something Crix and I had been talking about...and something I have wanted to try...
a two part 360 degree mold...
so...
thought I would start small with a Pilot code cylinder...

this is done in two parts....first part is to sink the original into clay about 1/2 way....






add reference speed nuts...and other reference cavities



and pour the mold making material over the piece...





in about 6 hours....we will see what we got..


Laughing
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well...lol...
haven't been posting my projects in this thread...


but...

have decided on my next costume...
and for the first time ever...
I am going for a "face character" because I am about Carrie Fisher's age at this stage of her life...actually...I am 5 years older than Carrie...but...that is close enough...


anyway...

I am sure that most have you have seen the following "leaked"...



The photograph of Carrie is VERY blurry...so I can't make out much...the costume does remind me a lot of a RFT...


The drawing below was leaked months ago appears to be what the real costume ended up being...





If anyone finds better images over the upcoming months...
please post them!!
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Blue (Beth)
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile

Can't wait to see it Phyllis!
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, there certainly has been a stunning lack of Episode 7 Princess Leia costume photos, so I have decided to try to make the Episode 7 X-Wing Pilot.

Some of this has been shown on my FB Page and I have had a lot of inquiries on it. So, since I have been repeatedly answering some of the same questions, I thought it time to try to gather together what I have found, sewn, and tried out and put it in one place.

Once again, I don't know if any of this is right...
I am not saying that any of this is accurate, canon or whatever you want to call it...
I am at this point just trying to make these pieces "look like the picture".

Where we have seen photos of Poe...it is still difficult to pick out details and there has been very little shown of his back side...so a lot of that is guesswork.


I will start out by sharing the information on the "canon" pieces I have been able to purchase.



First off-the gloves.

These gloves were purchased from a gentleman in the UK and are supposed to be the exact gloves used in production. They are a police riot squad/terrorism squad glove. They are made from a heavy leather so as to protect the hands of the wearer in riot situations. I would provide you with a link BUT the source I purchased mine from only had a few and he already told me that he can not get anymore as the supplier no longer makes them.
There are a couple people here at the RL that are attempting to reproduce these exact gloves.












Next- the boots


These were purchased on E-bay. A note about the boots....I am not sure that these are right. I have seen screen grabs/and promo photos of Poe that suggest the boots might be a shorter/ankle high boot. The look of these boots does look dead on...so...they are useable. A note that these are listed as warm winter boots...lol...they are cheaply made for sure...they do have a fur lining that I think I might remove. If I do remove the lining the boots (which are already a little on the large size) will be bordering on too large, but an additional pair of socks will likely solve that problem.




Here is a link to the boots I purchased:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mens-Black-Warm-Waterproof-Winter-Snow-Rain-Boots-Nova-/221584517518?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT


The belt..

I had visions of having to make the belt by hand and putting all of those "puckers" in...thankfully I had been reading up on found pieces and the consensus is that British army belts were used and kind of turned inside out. The belts do not come in the color needed..which I am not sure is a dark or light gray...my eyes are telling me that the belt is dark gray. So that being said, the belt has to be painted or dyed.

Since the belt is nylon...dying is not going to work...they will have to be painted.

Several people have purchased "DupliColor Vinyl/fabric spray which can be found at auto supply places like Auto Zone. The recommended color was a light gray. I have purchased this paint, but am holding off actually painting it until an order for "Design Master" paint in "Flannel Gray" arrives. Design Master paints are what a lot of us use for camo painting our Endor Trooper parts. This paint is wonderful. It covers well but does not get stiff like I have heard that the DupliColor gets. Design Master is sold by Micheals but I was not able to find the color I needed so I had to order on-line. I am awaiting delivery of the Design Master...will use that on the backside to see how it covers and how dark the gray comes out. If it does not look right, I will go with the DupliColor.

Here it the belt I purchased:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRITISH-ARMY-SAND-DESERT-BEIGE-PLCE-WEBBING-BELT-ROLL-PIN-BUCKLE-MILITARY-/301336212202?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT


Ejection harness:

I am still in the "thinking about it" stage for the ejection harness. I had a good sized length of dark gray 2" strapping that someone gave me to make an X-Wing ejection harness for them. The color was wrong for the traditional X-Wing and I used my own silver strapping to make the ejection harness and saved the dark gray that he sent me....so...I am going to try that first since I have that strapping on hand.

You will need two roll pin buckles for the harness...I found some here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLL-PIN-BUCKLE-FOR-USE-WITH-ROLL-PIN-BELT-GOLD-BUCKLE-/331387964513?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT

these roll pin buckles are a gold color which is not correct...I had read that some people used a vinegar and salt solution to remove that gold color...and I can tell you...it works great! I soaked the buckles (I had also removed the roll pin buckle from the above belt also as that one is gold) in a large coffee cup where I added some salt and then vinegar to cover the buckles completely...I had no recipe for the vinegar/salt solution..I just winged it. After leaving the buckles in the solution for about 15 minutes...that gold finished wiped right off.

In this photo, you can see the buckles and the strapping that I have. Since I am still waiting on the Design Master paint for the belt, this is all just trying to figure out what goes where and how to attach.





One thing that does have to be made is these metal pieces that go on the top of the ejection harness down the front....

This is a photo of the one that Angela Anderson-Cobb made





I believe she made hers from plastic.

I have tried cutting one of these out of metal...it is NOT going well when you are working with marginal tools. If I had access to a plasma or laser cutter...that would probably work..but a dremel and metal snips is just not doing the job...
so..I do have a piece of ABS plastic that I will attempt to make a set from and then try to heat the ABS to put the curve in and then use rub and buff to make them look metal.

Many members here at the RL have been very helpful in providing some sketches and images for these pieces. Again, I struggle with eyesight issues...so their help has been so VERY much appreciated.







So...for now the ejection harness/belt is in the un-done pile.


The flightsuit:


I have not done too much in this area for several reasons.

I don't know what color....is it the same orange as an X-Wing?
Is it red/orange?

Most people making the flightsuit have gone with X-Wing orange.
I have a pattern for a jumpsuit but since I don't know what color AND I can't even find a useable orange color fabric...the flightsuit is on the bottom of the list.

I figured if push comes to shove on the day of the Episode 7 Premier...I might just match up what Episode 7 piece I have done with just my regular X-Wing flightsuit and wear that as a "work in progress".

One of the things about the flightsuit is the ribbing down the arms and at the neck. I had visions of making those pleats/ribs by hand when (once again) Angela Anderson-Cobb came to the rescue when she found this orange trim that certainly looks like what they used in production...

Here is the trim:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/217134552/3-inch-75-mm-wide-ruffled-colored?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=ruffled+colored+elastic&ref=sc_gallery_1&plkey=e7127714c3b662d9fe1e42b29b3931f6346f7389%3A2171345



of course...I bought orange...so...the problem here is that if the flightsuit is determined to be a more red color...I doubt that this trim will be able to be dyed as it is elastic...which probably won't take dye well ...if at all.

Here is a photo of the trim that I purchased laying on top of my X-Wing flight suit...as you can see...the color matches pretty darn good.






Someone at the RPF found this flightsuit and said that it looked very much like the base unit that might have been used:



The problem with this suit is that:
They don't ship to the US
The suit is pretty expensive (around $125.00 for one) and you need to buy two...one to cut up..


In looking over the flightsuit carefully...you can see that there is actually a "chaps" thing going on.

One of the guys here at the RL posted this sketch ...which I think pretty much lays out the flightsuit well....




Of course....there are a bunch of other odds and ends...
so far I have not even pondered the chest box....

The hose for the chest box is something I already found out is available in the UK only...and also not being shipped to the US.

Have not looked at the holster and blaster either....

leg flares...someone presented this diagram of them:




And...
now to the part I have looked at and do have in a near completed state...



The flak vest.


First off...I chose a white 100% cotton denim as the fabric...


I don't have a tutorial OR a pattern as I have been moving things around and have veered off of the original pattern many times.

I started with this pattern that I have used on anything that starts out looking like a vest...I used it as a base for Han Solo, and when I re-worked my RFT vest....

the notations on the packaging are from the Han Solo vest...but I did use view D as a start for the flak vest also.




Without going into endless detail on the 3 prototypes....this sketch from the same person who did the flightsuit sketch also helped me:




My flak vest is currently in two pieces....




eventually, the two pieces will be tacked together via hand sewing...

I am leaving them separate for now as I still try to work out some things.

As you can see, I have sewn on some white strapping onto the bottom of the upper piece. I have not been able to get a really good idea on that part as there is not enough images of where it goes...most often the critical area is covered by Poe holding his helmet in front of it...or the arms are down and you just can't see it...the large action figure is no help.

The black circle is on there only temporarily as I try to determine the best way to do that...

the Rebel Alliance insignia was put on the piece using an iron on transfer...the iron on transfer did not fully work...BUT ...I rather liked the outcome as it looks a bit worn/faded. I will make the aurebesh words with iron on transfer too.

The back panel was made using a low density foam...I would have preferred high density but found that high density only comes in green..which would have to be covered by several layers of fabric to mask the color and that defeats the purpose....the low density comes in white.




I started to use the same foam on the front of the vest and found that it was not working well....it does not keep a crisp look...



note this photo...the inner piece has the ribs in foam...
and the outer piece has some pine moulding that I found that I think worked out better.



I ended up removing the foam from the inner panel and re-doing that in the wood moulding also...



The moulding was purchased at Home Depot...
it is pine...
and it is 1/4" by 3/4"



the moulding has a rounded side and a squared side...I put the squared side outward for a sharper line...channels were sewed into the fabric with a space in between...



I am short...so this technique might not give the correct results for someone making a longer/larger vest.

I generally make things for myself that are too big...too long...etc...
this time I tried to make this piece fairly short...as some of the photos of Poe from the side look like the vest is fairly short...

I almost think I made it too short...so when I went to hem the bottom, I was grateful that I had left the bottom part long...so I was able to add some to the overall length.

I will continue to add information/images here...

AND IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING THAT IS OF ASSISTANCE...

please feel free to post...

Again...
I am NOT sure of anything here...
and not saying any of this is correct...












Wink
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