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The Saber-smith's Thread
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My pleasure. It is an honor to make such a contribution to the legion.

Thank you to all for making this thread a success.
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is something else I can throw on this thread.

One of the first saber modifications I started doing was leather wraps around the switch. This can really dress up a plain saber.

I made a thread on the Ultra Sabers forum with a tutorial. I did not save the tutorial on my computer but here is the link with the step by step instructions....

http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=15041.0

Here are a few pictures of the results....






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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice....gotta love tutorials!
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Rich330 ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mind if I join in with the show and tell? Laughing

I got my parts for my first saber in today and successfully put it together. The chassis is not the complete construction I originally planned so I'll tackle that again at some point ... though it all sits in place fine with just the (excessively long Embarassed) wires as a cushion.
I will also weather the saber with Aluminum Black as the "new car" look isn't really doing it for me.
Pleased with it so far though. It's nice when a new project works out with no problems.

















Video:


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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very cool, i really need sound in one of my sabres
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job. I like the design. A little weathering would do it well but it looks nice like that too.
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Rich330 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, guys.
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, here is a quick and dirty little project that anyone can do to spruce up a saber....a blade plug.

I have seen these blade plugs on the saber forums and always wanted to try one out. If you look at the blade plugs that Ultra Sabers and TCSS sell, they are nice, clean looking and serve their intended purpose of not blinding you when the blade it pulled out. However, many on the forums have made there own blade plugs using electric shaver replacement blades to make the blade socket look more interesting...as if it were "real."

Here are the results...

Items needed: a chunk of a blade you can sacrifice (the length will depend on your saber but 2" or under is about average), a replacement blade for an electric shaver usually sold in threes (sold at places like Wal-Mart), a Dremel tool or stepped drill bit., and some glue.



Cut your plug from the old blade. What I did was put the blade in a vice, stuck the saber on the blade, marked my cut line, subtracted a little bit, started my cut using a pipe cutter, sanded the part that will become the blade plug to make sure it slides on and off the saber with no resistance, the cut the plug the rest of the way. I then cleaned up the end with sand paper. Next was to ream out the end so the shaver blade part fit in the plug nice and flush. The shaver part should be put in face down so it is a little bit sunk into the plug. I did this with a cone bit or stepped bit (not sure the technical name). I turned the bit by hand to gently shave away what I needed.



I then glued the shaver part in place.



The forums say to fill the plug part of the way with hot glue. This was easier said than done. If I could heat the glue in a ladle and pour it in, that would have been better. As it stands, the glue kind of boogered up in the bottom, behind the shaver part, but it serves it purpose of defusing the light.

Here is the end result....







I found that cutting the plug piece a little bit shorted than the blade socket makes them look better since it will recess the shaver part in a little more.

This is an easy little thing anyone with and Ultra Saber or TCSS saber can do. It looks great for a display saber.

Enjoy.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shiny...

Very Happy
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not exactly a saber build but how could I resist showing this off....




Ok, so I have been working on this little item in my spare time. My goal was to make a Star Wars blaster that…

A) Is not a DL-44. Nothing against Han and his signature blaster, but it will always be Han’s blaster in my eyes
B) Is not a repainted plastic toy. Nothing against these either, I have made my share of painted NERF guns. I just wanted something that felt more like a real gun in my hands.
C) Would light up. Of course, why not?

I was rummaging in my spare parts bin and started looking a little differently at some of the old MHS parts I had lying around. The parts I had seemed to resemble a DH-17 Rebel Trooper blaster. You guys and gals are familiar with this blaster, right?




I always kind of liked the DH-17 blasters of the Rebel Troopers. I think in the Star Wars universe it is kind of overshadowed by other blasters with more screen time, but is no less iconic. It has a classic look but is just a little bit different than the E-11’s (ironic since they are built off of the same real world machine gun.)

So, I decided to try my hand at blaster-smithing. The size of the parts dictated the size of the blaster so I am calling this a DH-17-S, for short.

The guts are all Ultra Sabers and are set up just like a stunt saber but with a momentary switch as a trigger. It has a Fire Orange MLS unit.

The pistol grip is from an AK-47 and creates the same general profile as the DH-17. It is attached with two ¼-20 socket head screws and a coupling.

The “scope” is a cheap little laser sight for a bb gun and is held on by a Weaver scope rail made for a Remington 870 shotgun. The rail fits perfectly against the radius of the MHS parts.

The pommel is from a Prophecy.

I drilled a little button head screw into the blade plug to create the impression of a barrel hole.

The black parts were painted with etching primer and then black enamel spray paint and clear coat.

This was a fun little project and I think it came out pretty well. Next step will be a holster but I thought I would share these pictures now.

Enjoy.




















Razz Razz Mr. Green
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hartss ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool idea
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY cool!!

Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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Location: Joliet, IL
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few projects I have been working on for a while. After building The Patriarch saber I got the sound saber bug. So, I decided to upgrade a few of my existing sabers. For all of these, I used the new Nano Biscotte V2 sold by TCSS. I did all of the board soldering myself (this Jedi’s skills are improving)

The Knight





I wanted to upgrade The Knight, my primary saber, to a sound build. It had been designed in such a way to allow this so it was not that hard. Just like The Patriarch, I had to drill and tap the recharge port hole myself with my cute little drill press.

The Golden Warrior






This upgrade was a little more difficult. The switch box I had on it originally had was cool but there was absolutely no way to put a recharge port in it. I thought about putting the recharge port in the pommel but there was not enough room for that and the speaker because of the way I made this saber. I wanted to do the same switch box treatment I did on the other sabers but that particular switch box would not fit on a 3” MHS piece. So, my last resort was to cut down the switch box and reshape it. You will notice it only has one screw hole now but it does now fit on the 3” body piece. This was a real pain with the tools I have available (I had to hack saw the switch box down to size and Demel the heck out of it) but with patience, cursing and bandages, I made it work.

The Ranger












This is a totally from scratch build. I liked the Graflex style emitter that TCSS sells and wanted to use it in a build. I made a few changes to the classic design in that it is longer to accommodate all of the internal parts. I also did a little something different with the grip. I originally had the wiper blade style grip strips on the saber but did not care for it. It did not fit in my saber display stand at all and was miserable to hold (like holding a 2x4). I removed the strips and made a sleeve style grip. It is painted black with enamel paint. I think it preserves the original impression while making the saber more functional. I also rolled the switch box up at a 45 degree angle to make it more ergonomic. I put a white LED in it because to me, Luke’s saber in ANH always kind of looked white and (Phyllis can probably verify this) I believe that all of the lightsabers were originally supposed to be white until Lucas changed his mind in post-production and added the colors.



Each of these sabers has a 3.7 volt Li-Ion battery and is rechargeable. The sound cards are the new Nano Biscotte V2s which come pre-loaded with two sound fonts called “Light Meal” and “Dark Meat.” I used Light Meat for all of them except the Golden Warrior, that one has the Dark Meat set up and you can hear the difference in the video.

Also of note, you can see in the video that I am hitting and shaking the sabers to get them to react and make the clash and swing sounds. This was the best way to demonstrate the sound without swinging the sabers around. The sound actually preforms a little different in each saber depending on where the sound card is positioned inside. The swing/clash sensor is built in to the sound card so if the card is near the pommel, it is more sensitive, if it is closer to the center, it is less sensitive.

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/tcvcj3106/media/014_zpsd8d9dfc5.mp4.html



I made some cool blade plugs for them using electric shaver blades for The Knight and Warrior, and The Graflex blade plug is made with a sink arator to replicat the look of the actual Graflex prop.

Hear are a few pictures of the stands I picked up.










As always, enjoy the pictures and videos. If anyone has questions for me or needs help with a project, by all means, ask. A Jedi is as much a teacher as a warrior.

Tymae Yarmoo

Saber Smith
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope that you will be able to bring some of your stuff to the Joliet Library event and display them and maybe talk to people about what you do...and how you do it...

we can schedule maybe some "booth tutorials" ?

Like a sign at the table that says

visit Tim at noon and 2 for a short talk?

We do have to be careful not to interfere with the Lightsaber demo though...
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Tymae Yarmoo ()
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Location: Joliet, IL
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schph Gochi wrote:
I hope that you will be able to bring some of your stuff to the Joliet Library event and display them and maybe talk to people about what you do...and how you do it...

we can schedule maybe some "booth tutorials" ?

Like a sign at the table that says

visit Tim at noon and 2 for a short talk?

We do have to be careful not to interfere with the Lightsaber demo though...

I would be happy to do that.
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