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Chefs chewbacca build
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:46 pm    Post subject: Chefs chewbacca build Reply with quote

Hi guys, i think i'm about ready to cast my sculpt.
The first attempt at lifecasting my face was a bit of rooster up as it was deformed, but it was a learning curve.
So with the mistakes behind me and my sixteen year old son, we attempted it for a second time.
This time it worked - not perfect but good enough to sculpt over.

Here are the pics...







The one on the left is the one that came out ok



cheers


Last edited by chefhawk () on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:29 am; edited 1 time in total
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I then project an image of chewie on to styrene and compared that to a stormtrooper helmet for scale







it was then i ordered some chauvant nsp clay.
Unfortunately they sent the hard... but after trying the medium afterwards i prefer the hard clay.

I built up around my face cast using gaffer tape and tin foil to save on clay.



and heated/warmed the clay in a slow cooker that i bought for the build.






Last edited by chefhawk () on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Johnny ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same thing happen with my first life cast! I'm planning to put up a thread of photos of all my failures when I finish for all to see. Trial and error is the name of the game for me,
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep i will post anything that goes wrong...and im sure that will be happening.

So it was a case of sculpting with the clay that needs warming as you use.

Basic sizes and shapes..







then i went in a direction without referencing properly.






then i studied more pics, edit some videos for referencing.





I then comped it in photoshop with a reference pic overlay at 27 percent.




Last edited by chefhawk () on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:44 am; edited 1 time in total
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Johnny ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good Cheif! Do you have enough forehead height? Nice muzzle. I'm trying to get mine to look like yours!
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Fuzzball ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your sculpt looks awesome . i would just maybe add a inch or two to the forehead. But what do I know I havent even started yet.
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you guys.

Ive adjusted a few bits including the angle of the forehead.

The nose has been redone at least ten times!

heres some vids..









and after some alterations




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Todzilla ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it a lot!

Keep in mind "mechanics". I can't tell how much clay you've added to your lifecast, but make sure you have a significant amount of thickness especially under the ear in the jaw area. This area will be under a LOT of stress. It's the pivot point of the jaw. It has springs (or rubber bands) and it has to support the pressure of opening/stretching a silicone mouth. My jaw bone on the sides was 3/4" to an inch thick. Again you might have this type if thickness already (we can't tell from the sculpt because the lifecast is underneath). If you are unsure stick in a toothpick and measure the depth, on both sides. Symmetry is important to mechanics as well. You don't want the sides too far off when you make your pivot point.

Like others have said, I would add a little bit to the forehead. The way to do it is go off of facial points for distance estimates. Then use these new "units of measurement" to gauge the size of the other parts of the face. For instance look at the distance of the real Chewies mouth to the center of his eyes. I'll call it "1". Now you can notice that that the top of Chewie's head is nearly 1.5x the distance of the moth to eyes:


So in this case I'd measure your mouth to eyes, then just know from the center of your eyes to the top of the head is about 1.5x the distance.
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice.

Ive just checked on one of the last pics and it seems ok foe the height.




its one and a half times higher. I was worried i had made a massif mistake.

the jaw should be ok i think.

I ahve moved onto the next stage now.


Thanks again for your advice, its greatly appreciated to get some feedback and advice.


cheers
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ZeroCooL ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loving it so far Ian, i am watching it all and taking notes Smile
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Johnny ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good! What are planning to use for the mould? Fiberglass? I'm also interested in what your using for the separation of front and back. I just used some cheap air dry clay and although I supported it a ton, half of it just broke off a day or so later as it was drying.
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the support guys.

Its a case of prepping the sculpt for moulding.

Then i will gelcoat it, then fiberglass over that.

cheers
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after finishing the sculpt stage, it was time to prep it for casting.
I added a layer of foil tape around the mold to help release.
I filled in the nose holes with clay, then cut a piece of black cable for the mouth and filled in that void.
Then i waxed with carnuba as a release.





Then I made a Gelcoat out of the fiberglass resin and bondo/p38 1 part or each and then followed the instructions and added each hardener as prescribed.



Then with a cheap poundshop paintbrush that will be sacrificed after use! i painted a coat on..


I made the mistake of using the last bits that were nearly set and added them to the eye sockets. Realising that would make it harder to fiberglass over. I trimmed it off but made a small hole in the gelcoat near the nose area. So when adding a second gelcoat a little leaked into that area!





second coat of gelcoat


I trimmed around the edges of the gelcoat whilst it was nearly set (jelly stage) to make a neater edge later on.

Then i did three layers of fiberglass. Yep not the best, but ive never done fiberglassing before.







Then left it to cure for a couple of days.....

took about four hours to dig out the headcast and clay. I had a couple of weak areas inside at the top that i filled with p40 and sanded after drying.
I also sanded the area that had leaked in causing a raised area by the nose.




Tried it on for size and fit!




Next stage add a quarter inch of chavant nsp clay on the inside and then fiberglassing over that.

Any good tips ??

Im going to warm the clay till its liquid and do the brush or pour method? not sure which is the best?

Also im worried about the inner shell sticking to the clay, what would be the best release agent that worked for you guys?

cheers


Last edited by chefhawk () on Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Todzilla ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job Ian!!! I really am having flashbacks from when I went through all this!

I just wish I would have remembered to tell you to drill "pilot holes" in your completed fiberglass mold before prying it out Sad By drilling pilot holes through the mold, clay and your lifecast, you now have points you can slide in bolts to wood dowels to lock the mold in place when you pour the foam.. This is just the way I do it. I'm sure other builders do it another way. The key to the foam pouring is making sure you can stabilize the lifecast in the mold while the foam expands.

chefhawk wrote:
Next stage add a quarter inch of chavant nsp clay on the inside and then fiberglassing over that.

Any good tips ??

Im going to warm the clay till its liquid and do the brush or pour method? not sure which is the best?

Also im worried about the inner shell sticking to the clay, what would be the best release agent that worked for you guys?

cheers


I found just making a square slab of clay (8"x8"x1/4") and then pressing it in the mouth area worked the best. Remember you are just creating a spacer with the clay. Just heed Marty's warning! Don't make it too thick, or make it bigger than necessary. Even though my Chewie mask turned out great, I regret not making the silicone mouth area smaller like Marty suggested. Only make the nose as big as the actual nose will be (I went further and made a nose bridge). Also don't go to wide at the corners of the mouth. I went a little thicker and wider and I wish I hadn't be cause it takes quite a bit of force to open it up. Again, it's not a big issue, just letting you know what I would change if I went back and time and re-did my mask.

As far as release agents, I used pure Carnanuba wax and then sprayed on PVA. The areas that you will be covering the clay with fiberglass isn't a big deal because, heck, it's on clay. BUT you need to be extra careful when you are brushing on fiberglass on top of fiberglass. That is why I used wax and PVA. It's pretty popular in fiberglass mold making.

Here is the direct link to where I did my silicone mouth mold (you might have to scroll down a bit). Also in that same thread you can see where Marty talks about not making the mouth bigger than needed.

Anyhow great job so far and continue the good work!!!
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chefhawk ()
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks todzilla,
theres some great advice there.

I will probably use the inner fiberglass shell as my underskull.

with the pva...is it normal pva as in the glue>?
I dont have a compressor/spray unit, so could it it be brushed on do you think?

Very Happy

many thanks

chef
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