So I have this modular saber scheme...

[Sugar Jedi (Jason Vey)]

Ages ago I got a purple P4 setup from Jango over at fx-sabers and when it arrived found that sadly, it didn't fit into the saber into which I wanted to swap it out b/c it's a "new style" and the saber in question was "old style" MHS.

Well for some time now I've been wanting to take everything I've learned in messing with my frist Imperial Knight effort and apply it to a Mk. II version. I've got all the parts lined up on TCSS for it.

So while I was getting my ducks in a row it occurred to me: why not take advantage of the whole "modular" thing and build a truly modular saber? My plan now is to construct it around a base hilt--style 12--with chrome black powder coating.

As I'm sure everyone's aware the IK is a pretty basic, sleek design (hence its general popularity), so I won't waste too much time on that.

I will install a recessed blue or white ring LED MOM switch (I'm debating between blue and white) and a NB soundboard. Since this will be at its core an IK Mk II saber for me I'll go for a modular wiring system white Seoul P4 for the quick disconnect. A sink tube will provide the shroud.

Power source will be two AA Li-Ions with a dummy cell in a 3 Li-Ion holder (I'm not comfortable enough yet to go for an internal charge port. I *may* attempt a cutoff switch install for the sound board. Haven't decided. But having rechargeable batteries largely negates the "battery drain when not powered up" issue.

Here's the fun part. The sleeve will take just over half the sink tube, leaving me with (in a perfect world) roughly 5" of tube to work with. I'll order a second blade holder and pommel, have them powdercoated sun gold, and turn the chrome off the remaining 5" of sink tube so that it's brass. Create a new sleeve design with the remaining brass tube which utilizes the same set screw holes as the IK one does, and set up an install for a covertec ring which will be hidden when it's in IK mode by the IK sleeve. POSSIBLY attach an integral leather wrap to the secondary sleeve. Then, with a minute's worth of time I can swap out the LED, blade holder, pommel, and sleeve, and have an entire second saber, dependent on whether I want to costume as a Jedi or an IK.

It occurs to me I could put the switch on a quick disconnect as well and swap out for blue and white, but that may be a bit more of a pain to deal with and defeat the quick change purpose, so I'll likely just decide on one and stick with it. White will match the IK blade perfectly and look ok with purple, while blue won't match either perfectly but will complement both white or purple.

I'm sure this can't be a new idea--I'm sure others have done it many a time, but thoughts? Any warnings or things for which I should keep an eye out?

Honestly my one concern at this point is that I'm planning on a basic body, pommel, emitter setup and I'm concerned that won't make the handle long enough--is 7" of main body a long enough hilt? I used an extension on my Mk. I to get a longer body, but alas, TCSS doesn't make an extension in the style of the main body that I want to use which means the sleeve window ends up not being big enough aesthetically (It should cover most of the main body). So I may have to figure something out on that front.
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"A Jedi knight!? Jeez, I'm out of it for a little while, and everyone gets delusions of grandeur!"
The Sugar Jedi formerly known as The Grey Elf
KJO (Blumfruit Temple)
Echo Base (Western PA)

[rogue9607 (Nick)]

I read through a couple of times, and think I understand where you're going, but have a couple of questions. How are you powering the NB with "two AA Li-Ions with a dummy cell in a 3 Li-Ion holder"? If they're 14500 cells, you'd need to wire them in parallel for the NB, and I doubt the 3 cell holder does this (if it does, you wouldn't need a dummy cell). Alternatively, you could go with one 18650, place the NB on top, and have 3000+ mAh of capacity and sound card in less than 3" of hilt space. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-NB-and-1850018650-pack-P813.aspx

Unless you want to replace batteries mid troop, I personally think a charge port would be something good to add. Is the discomfort with the port because of the wiring, or the placement in the hilt? (I'm currently working on my first saber with a recharge port - so certainly no expert on them) I probably wouldn't worry about the cutoff switch if you plan on using the saber with any regularity. It'd take over three years for the NB to drain an 18650 while "off".

[Sugar Jedi (Jason Vey)]

[rogue9607 (Nick)]

An 18650 is fine for the NB. Erv even uses one in the diagrams in the manual (http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/Nano%20Biscotte%20v1.01-GB.pdf). If you have the space, I'd go with an 18650 since they have about 3x the capacity if i remember right.

The most important thing for the NB is going to be the voltage, and both the 18650 and 14500 are 3.7v batteries. I've powered my NB with both an 18650 (3.7v) and 4x NiMH rechargeable AA (1.2v x 4 = 4.8v), though the AA pack needs an extra diode in the wiring. I never tried regular AA batteries. Four of them would likely fry the board (6v), but 3x may work (3.5v). For reference, the NB accepts 3.4v - 5.5v.

Also, remember that even though the 14500 may be similar in size to a normal AA rechargeable, it will need a charger designed for 3.7v li-ion batteries. A normal AA charger will NOT work.