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MC landspeeder build
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, no problem Tim! Smile Thank you for the kind words.


Ah... the holiday season is over and I can get back to this project Very Happy

In efforts of creating the scrape on the back of the speeder so that it replicates the original speeder I decided to sculpt it like a prosthetic appliance. This works out great because I don't have to cut into the body and ruin any structural integrity.

I started by putting clay through a noodle roller:



This creates a uniform thickness so I have an even base to start from.






I then added a second layer:




And a narrower, single layer to feather it out:



Roll the edges and spread / blend:




Next I raked the heck out of it in all directions:






Next I smoothed out the surface by just rubbing the clay with my palm and fingers:




Then on to sculpting the scrapes and dents:






After I apply the finished bondo mixture "appliance" I will have to take a dremel and cut down into the body a little bit in the back to make these gouges a little deeper and more dramatic:



It's tough to see the fine details in the clay which will capture the weathering but it's there... and the dent sculpting is finally done and ready to be molded:



The next step will be making the rubber molds of all the dents and casting up the "scars" Very Happy
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Obey Wann (William Blackburn)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You never cease to amaze, Cal. Great work!
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bill Smile
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made some more progress this past weekend.

With the process that I plan to do for the scrape on the back of the speeder I needed "keys" on the speeder so that I can place the mold back in the correct position for the "appliance" to be placed properly.

I started off by drilling holes for these "keys":






To keep the rubber from filling in the screw head and wrapping around it I put a blob of clay on top of them:




Next put some release agent on the entire area:




I skipped a couple steps but here you can see the rubber mold is trimmed up and ready for the mother mold:




And the finished mother mold:





I would have used polyester resin and glass for the mother mold but I had some epoxy resin on hand for another project, which doesn't stink like polyester, so I decided to try it out.

The next step is to remove these, clean up the edges and cast the plugs for the front two dents. The back scrape will be a slightly different process.
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reela (Jeffrey Corbello)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're attention to detail and work are incredible. I am completely floored.
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Jeffrey.
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't stand walking around the shop this week, wondering how the molds turned out so I popped two of them off:





They came out perfect. I couldn't be happier! Smile woohoo.
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More progress....yaayyyyy Smile

I removed the clay, cleaned everything up and pulled out the plug / backer piece. I also cast up the new polyester resin and fiberglass plugs:




Trimmed and ready to be tacked in place:




Tacked in place with a few dabs of C/A glue:




Fiberglassed in place from the back side, bondo applied to the front joint and sanded:
Be sure to 'V' out the joints, like I showed in one of the early steps, prior to applying bondo.




The front "plug" freshly cast and removed from the mold, ready for cleanup:




I wasn't happy with my original plan of permanently glassing the backer piece in place so I had to cut it out but here is the "plug" trimmed and the hole cleaned up:




Tacked in place with a few dabs of C/A glue:




Fiberglassed permanently from the back side and bondo applied to the joints on the front, ready to be sanded:




Ah... now the fun part. The mold for the big scrape on the back of the speeder:




I cleaned up the area (saving the clay and setting it aside for later). I also scuffed up the speeder where the polyester resin would adhere... and boy did it adhere!!!:




I drilled 3 holes in the mold. One fill hole and 2 vent holes. Two holes were on the back end, while the primary vent hole is on the opposite end:




Next I put Vaseline at the outer edges of the mold, to help create a suction / seal and also act as a release agent in case the resin leaked...which ended up being a good idea.




Next I ratchet strapped the mold in place. Looking back... I should have added some screws in between these straps, making sure the mothermold stayed tight against the body.




I picked up a huge "syringe" ( which is for evacuating oil from automotive crank cases):




Next I shaped the clay (that I saved from the scrape sculpture) like a measuring cup to figure out the approximate volume:




I added a hose clamp to the "syringe" to help me gauge the correct amount of depth in the hole and also planned out my course of action with practice runs:




I mixed up some polyester resin and put it in the "syringe":




You can see my drain plugs on the left. The vent hole on the right... I had to plug with a paper towel because I bought a smaller rubber plug on accident and didn't have enough.




This part was a pain in the rear. I mixed up about 4 more ounces of resin than I estimated and I pumped it into the mold cavity. I ran out of resin and figured I must not have measured my clay properly so I quickly mixed up more and pumped 4 more ounces into the mold and it still wasn't coming out of the drain hole and it hit me...."what if the pressure is lifting the mold but just isn't leaking out?". Sure enough. I started pressing on the center of the mold, in between the straps and resin came gushing out of the drain hole and between the clay and mother mold all over the place so I had to frantically mop resin and pump the mold. I also had the speeder tilted at an angle so with all this, too much resin drained out, leaving a big void at the back of the "scar" and also since the mold lifted, the casting is lifted up about 1/16" in the middle so I'll have to feather out the scar a bit with bondo. If I would have screwed the mold down to the body I'm pretty sure this entire process would have worked perfectly.





The front part of the "scar" came out perfectly:




The void at the back of the mold, from the resin draining out too much:




So, I cleaned everything up, put the mold back on and poured some resin into the fill hole again. Hopefully it captured at least most of the detail so I don't have as much to re-create by hand. I might open the mold tomorrow and see what happened:



It'll clean up just fine. It's a learning process Smile
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More progress:

After taking the mold off for ... well... the 3rd time Wink The patch pour actually turned out pretty well. I only had to patch 3 small areas with bondo.




Keys removed and ready for cleanup and bondo:




This is a really good cleaner for removing clay, mold release, etc. but it leaves a residue itself and needs to be cleaned off:




You can use acetone or mineral spirits to clean it off:




Hit the screw holes (like earlier in the build) with a counter sink bit and sand the edges of the hole to give the bondo some extra "teeth":




Sand the whole area for more bondo:




First blow off the loose dust and then clean the remaining dust and oils off with mineral spirits:




Apply Bondo..... have I said how much I hate bondo?? And yes.. I'm not wearing a respirator in this shot but I did have fans blowing the air out the back of the shop:




While the bondo was drying on the scrape I sanded the bondo on the front dent:




Sand and fix the bondo patches on the back of the scrape, using the dremel to carve down into the body of the speeder and give the gouges some more depth:




Sanding, sanding, and more sanding... bleh.. the worst part of any project:




The body work is almost done. I had to put a little more bondo on this spot so.. another 15 minutes of sanding and then I'll pull this baby outside into the cold and hit everything with fine grit paper on an orbital sander and then hit it with some primer:




On to the engine pods... these things need a bunch of bondo. They are riddled with air bubbles:




until next time Smile .....
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Master Vos (Tim)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep the photos coming I am really enjoying watching this landspeeder come to life Very Happy
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tim Smile



I have been burning the candle at both ends, trying to get this "parade ready" along with designing our Sandtrooper backpack kits to fill out the scene in the parade with Sandtroopers so I haven't had much time for the forums but... here is some more progress:


I needed to reinforce the tail fin for bolting the engine pod in place so I scribed a 2x4 down to fit on the inside of the fin:






Had to flip it over so I could let the resin level out:




Getting ready to put the 2x4 in place:




I mixed up some resin with a little bit of thickener and E-Glass. Then pressed the board down into the resin, letting the resin come up around the board and I had a helper put a screw through from the outside of the top of the fin into the board to hold it in place:




Next I cut out the rear deck so that 3po's legs can go down into the body:




First I cut 75 percent around the opening, leaving the section where 3po's legs will go. I taped it back into place from the outside, filling the cut with clay Then I waxed the face of the lid so that the polyester and glass wouldn't stick to the lid and I only ran the "flange" around to where I had stopped cutting (where 3po's legs will go)

After the polyester "flange" cured I continued to cut the lid the rest of the way and popped it out:




Trim the flange to make it "nice"




It was finally nice outside so it was time to pull it out and prep it for primer. First clean off the speeder with mineral spirits:




Hit it with some primer:








I needed to reinforce the wings for mounting the engine pods so I did a similar process by scribing a 2x4 to fit inside the wing:




Looking inside the body, at the wing, after glassing the board in place:




It got cold and dark so I came inside and did some more work on the engine pods. The pod that sits on the tail fin had to have one of the vents cut off and prepped to be bondo'd smooth:




I also needed to cut holes in the "vents"




I put fiberglass over the hole where the vent louver was and I also added 3 more layers of resin and glass where it will bolt to the tail fin on the body:




And this is what I've been spending my evenings until 2:00 a.m. every night on... mapping out, scaling, and creating vinyl stencils for the paint chips and striping:








To give you an idea of what I'm doing, I put a grid pattern on the body with 1" masking tape. I then took a bunch of photos of my speeder until I found some that "matched" shots I have of the original speeder. I then overlayed the images and mapped out the paint chips and scaled them up to full scale. I then cropped out all the paint chip stencils and printed them on the back of some vinyl decal material. Now I'm cutting out all those stencils to be placed on the body, according to all the mapping I've done.


There are something like 67 stencils. Here is one of those "stencil maps":



Once the stencils are placed on the body I will paint the whole thing and I will be able to peel up the vinyl stencils, leaving paint chips.
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got all the paint chips and striping mapped out.

Here is what it looked liked when the decals were roughly taped in their locations:




And after finalizing the placement, sizing, etc. and applying the vinyl to the body:








I'm pretty sure the previous 3 pictures are a good depiction of what the insane portion of my brain might look like Wink


And since it's Feb / March in Colorado we are getting our usual winter snowstorm so painting outside isn't in the immediate future:



At least I still have a lot I can work on inside. If it comes down to it I'll build a visqueen tent around the speeder in the workshop and spray it in there.
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Master Vos (Tim)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have certainly been burning the candle at both ends you have made heaps of progress since I last looked I'm looking forward to your next set of progress photos Very Happy
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MonCal ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tim! Smile



I haven't been online much as I've been working late nights on the speeder and also designing TD pack kits for the sandtroopers...but here is some more progress:

I had to reinforce the rear deck lid so I weighed it down and bondo'd and glassed a piece of 3/4" plywood to the bottom side:




After I finished mapping out the striping I was able to cut out a faux joint / groove for the "gas cap" Wink .. not sure what else to call it:






I talked Kathy into helping me make the seats so I wet-formed some paneling for the backs of the seats:






Since it's been a typical March, with lots of cold and snow I gave up waiting on nice weather and put up a fumigation station Wink :




Since the cockpit is a different color from the body (thanks lfl prop guy Wink ) ... I needed to come up with a way to get the oxidized wine color so I started by spraying the cockpit with a white primer for the base color:






Next I painted it with a Colonial red color:






Next I misted it with a ruddy brown primer (by mist I mean just lightly spray from a distance to dull and lightly coat the colonial red layer:






Next I lightly misted that with the white primer:






Next I rubbed the white dusted layer with my bare palm to rub off the paint that turned to dust because of painting from a distance, and also to feather out and begin to mar the color for a base weathered color:




Next I masked off the cockpit so I could paint the rest of the body:




The "pink" layer:






Next I misted the whole body with white primer:






Next I wiped the body down again with my bare palm to even out the white dusted layer and I then wiped off the dust, after it dried, with a wet cloth to prepare for masking.

Next I masked off the stripes, using the stencils I created earlier during my mapping phase:




There is supposed to be a thin band of "pink" paint between the red stripe and the wine color in the cockpit (thanks again lfl prop guy Wink ) ... so I masked the edge of the cockpit, this time with electrical tape as it conforms better to the sharp, rounded contours:




Next I put on the "red" layer:





And that concludes the progress as of tonight. Tomorrow I clean up the mess and hopefully get some paint on the engine pods. Very Happy




So.. I have chosen to go with the paint scheme on the speeder that we see most in A New Hope.

The speeder that is on display today is only seen on screen for one shot.

Here is the speeder as it is today:



Notice the color of the engine pods, the dark gray color.

Here is the only shot we see this version in the movie:



I believe that was a pick-up shot filmed in California, just before George finished and released the film..... so I have no idea why the engine pods would be different at this point... feel free to speculate Wink


I am going to re-create the "roadblock" scene, sandtroopers and all, down to the one sandtrooper with no knee and white ears..but I want to go with this paint scheme for the speeder:



Notice the color of the engine pods, the "pink" color, not the dark gray:










Now, this next photo is of the "2nd" speeder, which was attached to the boom and the paint job isn't exactly the same as the drive-able speeder but it also has the "pink" engine pods:



This one cracks me up. It always makes me think of Kent for some reason Wink .. but again.. "pink" engine pods:




One thing that makes this difficult, with the speeder as it is on exhibit today is, they painted it green to be used in Episode 1 and then they cleaned the green back off, which some of the green is still on it..but they removed too much of the original weathering in places and they also put way too much weathering back on the speeder in spots, trying to restore it to its original state. So, I can use the photos of the speeder as it is today but I have to double check with old, pre - Episode 1 photos. I am also trying to go with the paint scheme as I am guessing it was in 1976, not as it is today, with years of wear, oxidation, alterations because of painting it green in Episode 1, etc.... so it's kinda tough Wink
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D-3po ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But how is it on Gas?

LOL

really OUTSTANDING work Cal.

Very Happy
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