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Han Solo ANH Blaster

 
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Kurodor (David Obaidallah)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:59 am    Post subject: Han Solo ANH Blaster Reply with quote

I've been doing research on the ANH Han Solo costume for quite some time now and have already started purchasing a few items such as the tools/droid caller. I did have a quick question...I've been having difficulty trying to track down a decent ANH DL-44 Blaster. I saw a Master Replica on eBay that is just way too much money and I e-mailed Unique Canes about one and haven't heard anything back yet.

I did see that doopydoos makes a resin blaster, but you have to assemble it (which is not an issue). My question is, would this be a good idea to get and would it be practical for trooping?
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SoloYT1300 (Robert Kohn)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If money is an issue (which it is for most of us during these trying times)... then I would go with one of toys that have been re-painted... or the resin one. Most if not all of us have had to compromise when we start a new costume. The key is to remember that once your costume has been approved... that it can always be upgraded. This is where many of us need to do a better job.

To strive for movie accurate costume... means upgrading when you can and keep at it! I have never met a Han costumer who got it right on the first try.

Good luck!

Bob
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Kurodor (David Obaidallah)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Bob for the reply. I'm still looking around for a real good blaster that I think is a reasonable price. In the mean time, it is good to know that I have my options open to get one of the lesser blasters and then upgrade.

I'll keep ya posted on the build once my RFT is finished.
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Havok69 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Doopydoos resin model is pretty good, and is good option for trooping. I prefer all metal, and the place to start there at least reasonably is a Denix Mauser replica. From there, you can build on it, buying a piece at a time when you can afford it. I went the Greedo Killer route, and after all was said and done, it cost me about $350 for everything.

If you build your own holster, it can easily accommodate an all metal blaster. I've already done a few 4 plus hour troops, and I've got to say that weight is not an issue if you have a good gunbelt. (My blaster weighs around 9 pounds)

It's a real kick when someone asks to hold your blaster and they feel the weight of it. You always see they're impressed. On the other hand, you don't want to break your baby while trooping, so perhaps a less expensive resin model is more what you're looking for. Either way, a Doopydoos assembled and painted right will still look great and it boils down to how much you want to spend.
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Blair (Vlastimil Sprta)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you will build proper leather gunbelt ... I would suggest to go with metal upgrade (denix or some accurate metal airsoft mauser) ...

Anyway ... if you do not want to break your baby while trooping, go with "metal upgrade" Smile ...

Resin blasters are more fragile Wink


Last edited by Blair (Vlastimil Sprta) on Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know many of the guys have 2 blasters... a hero blaster for photo ops... and one for the kids to pose with.
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Kurodor (David Obaidallah)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you everybody for your replies...The idea of having two blasters sounds like a good idea. I will look into that.

I'll keep you all posted. Wink
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theeviltwin ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I'm late to this but in case it isn't too late or someone else uses this, here's my opinions:

Drop a metal blaster and it will break, or the scope bracket would bend, or the flash hider will deform, etc. Basically something really bad will happen and it will require major repairs / replacement parts. I have personally seen my metal spring airsoft mausers actually shatter (not just snap or break) when I dropped them less than a metre! You could get lucky and metal will be the strongest, but something that heavy dropped from even a small height, something is going to give and it will not be a clean fix.

Drop an MR blaster and not only do you have the issues above, it is worse because you don't have the build knowledge to disassemble the blaster to remove the damage, there are no exact build replacement parts, plus your expensive mint limited edition piece is no longer mint.

Drop a decent resin blaster (such as a doopy) and it will break. But there is a very good chance it will be a clean snap and with a bit of epoxy glue, a very simple fix. I've had a situation where one of my resin blasters took a fall, the barrel snapped and it is now solidly back together with just a bit of glue. Even if the damage was terminal, at least it isn't expensive or rare to replace.

For my personal prop collection, the pieces I keep on my wall and desk, the "replicas" I treasure, nothing beats metal. But superficially for trooping, I go for doopydoos resin. The accuracy is excellent (comparable to MR replicas). You can't tell it isn't metal with a good paint job unless you are holding it and it is very very rare I let anyone handle my blaster (and those that have we're never disappointed)... For really high profile events where the public get that close it would be great to have as maximum accuracy as possible, but these are events like the SW Celebrations which I have to fly too, and there is no way I would risk a metal blaster through airport security checks.

Weight - metal are much heavier than resin but whether you are fine with that is down to personal preference.

The last reason I'll go into why (doopydoos) resin are the blasters I use for trooping is to do with safety. It amazes me just how close and how quickly kids can get without you noticing them. While it is more likely that a helmeted character such as a TK will knock a kid on the head with their blaster just turning around, I have seen and had some close calls with open face costumes too. With all the care, spotters and alertness in the world accidents can happen. Resin blasters are not soft and will hurt, but they are fractionally softer and the edges less sharp than metal ones (think catching a kid on the head with the end of your blaster muzzle). Anything that could help the odds of reducing a bleeding child's head to a bump on the child's head, I'm personally going to go for.

Starting with resin then replacing with metal if you wish is a good strategy. You have the best of both worlds, have the most appropriate tool for the specific trooping job at hand and even have a spare backup blaster in case your primary does get damaged at an event and with a quick trip back to your kit, can keep on trooping.

Hope it helps.

Greg.
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Kurodor (David Obaidallah)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theeviltwin wrote:
Sorry I'm late to this but in case it isn't too late or someone else uses this, here's my opinions:

Drop a metal blaster and it will break, or the scope bracket would bend, or the flash hider will deform, etc. Basically something really bad will happen and it will require major repairs / replacement parts. I have personally seen my metal spring airsoft mausers actually shatter (not just snap or break) when I dropped them less than a metre! You could get lucky and metal will be the strongest, but something that heavy dropped from even a small height, something is going to give and it will not be a clean fix.

Drop an MR blaster and not only do you have the issues above, it is worse because you don't have the build knowledge to disassemble the blaster to remove the damage, there are no exact build replacement parts, plus your expensive mint limited edition piece is no longer mint.

Drop a decent resin blaster (such as a doopy) and it will break. But there is a very good chance it will be a clean snap and with a bit of epoxy glue, a very simple fix. I've had a situation where one of my resin blasters took a fall, the barrel snapped and it is now solidly back together with just a bit of glue. Even if the damage was terminal, at least it isn't expensive or rare to replace.

For my personal prop collection, the pieces I keep on my wall and desk, the "replicas" I treasure, nothing beats metal. But superficially for trooping, I go for doopydoos resin. The accuracy is excellent (comparable to MR replicas). You can't tell it isn't metal with a good paint job unless you are holding it and it is very very rare I let anyone handle my blaster (and those that have we're never disappointed)... For really high profile events where the public get that close it would be great to have as maximum accuracy as possible, but these are events like the SW Celebrations which I have to fly too, and there is no way I would risk a metal blaster through airport security checks.

Weight - metal are much heavier than resin but whether you are fine with that is down to personal preference.

The last reason I'll go into why (doopydoos) resin are the blasters I use for trooping is to do with safety. It amazes me just how close and how quickly kids can get without you noticing them. While it is more likely that a helmeted character such as a TK will knock a kid on the head with their blaster just turning around, I have seen and had some close calls with open face costumes too. With all the care, spotters and alertness in the world accidents can happen. Resin blasters are not soft and will hurt, but they are fractionally softer and the edges less sharp than metal ones (think catching a kid on the head with the end of your blaster muzzle). Anything that could help the odds of reducing a bleeding child's head to a bump on the child's head, I'm personally going to go for.

Starting with resin then replacing with metal if you wish is a good strategy. You have the best of both worlds, have the most appropriate tool for the specific trooping job at hand and even have a spare backup blaster in case your primary does get damaged at an event and with a quick trip back to your kit, can keep on trooping.

Hope it helps.

Greg.


Thank you Greg for your reply. It helps a lot! What I like is everyone does it differently and it makes for many possible options for me.

It's possible I might have a metal blaster coming to me but I will also pick up a doopydoos as well.
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Sugar Jedi (Jason Vey)
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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Unique Canes ESB blaster and it's really nice, but in the years since I bought it their prices have become obnoxious.

I've heard very good things from people who have dealt with Blast-Tech, and their blasters look to be quite reasonably priced for being built around metal Denix Mausers. The one thing I'd caution against: metal replicas are HEAVY. Make sure the holster clips on your belt can handle the weight.
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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally have not trooped as Han costuming still in progress but have wore it to cons and I use a Rubies blaster that has been painted to look just like it. It has taken several drops from myself and children and the only damage is to the rear of the scope are some small chips of plastic that have been broken off ....battle damage is what I call it .....its a good little blaster that gets the kiddies attention since it makes noise ......hope that helps with you making a decision
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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blast-Tech is all out of parts, so the best bet would be eBay.

I'd go with a Denix Broomhandle replica and gather parts from the 'Bay, these forums and the RPF, should you be/want to be a member there.

Never been keen on resin blasters due to the fragility issues,

The ANH blaster is the hardest to get right, too - the bull barrel and scope+mount being the tough parts to find/build. It seems a resin blaster with the proper ANH look might be the easiest one to obtain.
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