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Jobal Naberrie
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incidentally, reading this thread lead me to believe that the fabric that the guy at the store told me was "100% polyester" was lying, since once I actually thought about it, you can't burn out a pattern on a fabric that's all the same fiber. So I took a swatch of my poly flame velvet, dunked it in some RIT dye, and lo! The pile took the dye.

This guy, mind, was not the most trustworthy- he tried telling me that polyester is the easiest fabric to dye, which we all know is a flat-out lie. But, he was selling me accurate flame velvet for $5/yd, so I tried to ignore it. Rolling Eyes

But, yes. The whole idea of burnout requires two fibers to be present, so the chemicals can burn one of them away, leaving the other intact. That said, sometimes that which is sold as completely poly is not actually such, so there's nothing to lose by dunking a swatch of it in some dye and seeing what happens. Smile
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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JediDWH wrote:
This guy, mind, was not the most trustworthy- he tried telling me that polyester is the easiest fabric to dye, which we all know is a flat-out lie.


He confused polyester with rayon, that's all Wink

Easiest way to distinguish polyester and rayon (or silk/rayon) is a burn test. If it melts and drops and the residue is like burned plastic (hard and can't be crumbled between two fingers), it's polyester. If it smells like burned paper, is easily crumbleable, it's rayon. If it's a mix between burned paper and burned hair, it's silk/rayon (or maybe wool/rayon; but that's more unlikely).
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MotF (Cathy Bowden)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naergi wrote:
MotF wrote:
No, just plain polyester

And you're going to burn out "plain polyester" (whatever kind of weave that may be...) how? (I'm just asking again to make sure that I understand what you're trying to do!)
BTW, the original vest was definitely made from a velvet weave - I'd think silk/rayon velvet because 1. that material was used so much on the costumes and 2. it's the only material that can be burned out using the usual methods.
Granted, it could also be nylon/acetate velvet and the motifs could have been *stamped* into the velvet; but since that method, as far as I can tell, hasn't been used on any of the other costumes, I don't believe that it was used for *this* costume.



I need to go back and read the burn out instructions again. I think I got 'stamped' and 'burn out' mixed up.

Thanks again for your help.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you're going to stamp the motifs using paint and stamps (or stencils)?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have another question about the types of fabric you can with the burn out chemical (can't wait to do this on the silk velvet).

Can you use suede, alova, and crushed panne velvet? I have some ideas for another project.

Thanks

Cathy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate when that happens! I can't wait for my fabric to arrive and I can start this process. I want to have it done by Feb 1st.....



JediDWH wrote:
Incidentally, reading this thread lead me to believe that the fabric that the guy at the store told me was "100% polyester" was lying, since once I actually thought about it, you can't burn out a pattern on a fabric that's all the same fiber. So I took a swatch of my poly flame velvet, dunked it in some RIT dye, and lo! The pile took the dye.

This guy, mind, was not the most trustworthy- he tried telling me that polyester is the easiest fabric to dye, which we all know is a flat-out lie. But, he was selling me accurate flame velvet for $5/yd, so I tried to ignore it. Rolling Eyes

But, yes. The whole idea of burnout requires two fibers to be present, so the chemicals can burn one of them away, leaving the other intact. That said, sometimes that which is sold as completely poly is not actually such, so there's nothing to lose by dunking a swatch of it in some dye and seeing what happens. Smile

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Naergi ()
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MotF wrote:
Have another question about the types of fabric you can with the burn out chemical (can't wait to do this on the silk velvet).

Can you use suede, alova, and crushed panne velvet? I have some ideas for another project.


That would depends on which fibers were used to weave those fabrics. Crushed panne velvet for example is ALWAYS polyester; so that wouldn't work.

I've basically already written this in my burnout tutorial, which I linked earlier in this thread, but just to repeat it:

To do the chemical burn-out, you need a fabric that contains two different fibers:
1. A protein (wool, silk) or artificial (polyester; NOT acetate or rayon!) fiber and
2. A pulp fiber (rayon, cotton, linen, hemp).
The usual 'silk/rayon' velvet works because the backing is silk, while the pile is rayon - so do all other silk/rayon (or silk/cotton; silk/linen) blends.

The burnout chemicals, if used properly, will remove the pulp fiber but leave the protein or artificial fiber alone.
If NOT used properly (wrong blending of ingredients; ironing too long...) this will also damage and maybe even partially remove the protein / artificial fiber.

That means, as Lisa already pointed out, it doesn't work on fabrics that are woven with one fiber only; or with the wrong fibers (i. e. a rayon/linen blend).

Hope that helps Smile
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MotF (Cathy Bowden)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, greatly appreciated
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MotF (Cathy Bowden)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 2:47 pm    Post subject: The Skirt Reply with quote

Haywood and I have did the initial formula for the length and width of the skirt using only two panels <G>.

Now to test that theory. I'm designing all the pieces for the outfit (well, will fudge a little on the bodice), but it has major rework on it.

Pictures forthcoming.

Cathy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mock up is done. To use the McCall pattern, I had to cut away 1" on each side of the front until I reached 2" from the bottom. To close the bodice, I used velcro. Looks really nice. Will be posting picture of the mock up here soon, just have some finishing touches to do.

Then onto the real material Smile
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