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Zayne Carrick
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:11 am    Post subject: Zayne Carrick Reply with quote



So I've had this in the very beginning stages for a couple of years now, but I've finally decided to bite the bullet and dig into this one. The main thing that has been holding me back is the belt. THAT BELT. Five billion pouches, and no two drawings are the same.

I made a mockup forever ago, but it's way too big. So tonight's project was pinning it in until it didn't bunch up funny around the obi anymore. I was trying to avoid girly seaming, but I have to have a little of it if I want things to lay flat. It's okay, though, because by the time I'm done putting obi/belt/pouches of doom around my waist, you won't be able to tell it's so small.

So far I have: Wig, boots, gloves, bases for the knee pads (these will need heavy modification), and a mockup of the top and cowl.





I'm pretty pleased with how it's fitting now, having taken probably four inches out of the torso. Baggy seemed like a good idea until I realized how bad it would look with the belt.

The plan is to have an accurate lightsaber; I'm working out the details of that. I'm also totally doing light-up vambraces. I've got plans for how to make that work, but first I'm getting the soft bits done. I want to complete all my mocking up in the next week and a half, so that by the next time I'm off work, I can make an epic fabric shopping trip of it. The current plan is wool for the cowl, linen for the tunic, and twill for the pants.

The fun part of this one is that my deadline is months out, so I can take my time and construct things beautifully, and not nearly kill myself in the process. Mr. Green So excited! Zayne is one of my favourite EU characters, and I am going to have a lot of fun putting his costume together.
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In solidarity with the VFX industry, who brought the Star Wars we know and love to life, I'm going green screen.

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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I'm standards-bombing the forum, I may as well include the standards I wrote up for myself to make this costume.

Before I get to that, though, I will update that I've gone fabric shopping, my tunic linen is pre-washed and ready for stitching, and my wool is still waiting to be pre-washed. I only have two weeks left of having no life, and you have no idea how excited that makes me.

Anyway, on to the standards!

Gallery of reference images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39639089@N05/sets/72157629940230179/

Sources:


Required items:

    1. Tan, long sleeved tunic with mandarin collar, medium/dark brown rectangular panels on shoulders, thin (1-2”) brown rectangular panel down the center of the tunic, and the centers of each side taper up towards the center stripe.
    2. Forest green cowl
    3. Pants in medium/dark brown
    4. Medium/dark brown obi
    5. Dual-wrapped belt in leather or leather-like material, with one around the waist and one angled down around the hips. (someone please help me reword this, it's kind of a weird construction and I know that isn't quite right.)
      a. Roller bar metallic belt buckle
      b. 3-6 pouches in leather or leather-like material.
      c. Holster in leather or leather-like material.

    6. Accurate shoulder harness in leather or leather-like material- harness should loop around both shoulders and be connected by one strip of leather in the back.
    7. Brown gloves, short or long but not above the elbow.
    8. Tall brown boots with no decoration in leather or leather-like material
    9. Plain silver knee pads with no cloth border and 3 rivets in triangular pattern
    10. Lightsaber, yellow if bladed
    11. Accurate vambraces in leather or leather-like material
    12. Accurate hairstyle, naturally occurring colours only

Optional items:
    1. Tunic side panels in a greyer fabric with matching sleeves
    2. Hood on the cowl
    3. Blue lights in the vambraces
    4. Blaster that fits in the holster and has an accurate handle
    5. Second, wider layer of leather on the shoulder harness, under the main harness and sitting on the shoulders. The shoulder harness may also include silver connecting rings and rivets, decorative or functional.



ON THE OPTIONAL ITEMS:
The tunic often has the side panels, but not always. I think they look extra snazzy, but they are not in all the references so shouldn’t be required. The cowl appears with a hood in maybe two frames of the comics. It gives a nice utility to the cowl, but is rarely seen, so should not be required. The vambraces show up once before they’re seen being tested with the lights on, and have to be activated in order to light up, anyway, so the lights should be an optional (but awesome) addition. As for the gun, while Zayne always has a holster, it does not always carry a gun, and you certainly never see him use one.

GLOVES:
Are drawn both wrist-length and near-elbow length, so both should be allowed.

SHOULDER HARNESS:
It’s drawn in half a dozen different ways, so it’s hard to get more specific than ‘accurate,’ since multiple things could be considered such. The basic rig is always present, though, and is all we can require. I think the back strap is missing in a few drawings, but they’re rare and I wouldn’t want to try wearing the harness without it, so it may as well be required. The shoulder harness can include silver rings as connectors, a second layer of wider leather laying under the harness over the shoulders, rivets holding said layer down, and other decorative rivets. But they are not always present, so should not be required.

-----

Pictures of fabric may follow. Pictures of sewing may follow, if I can find the time for it. This weekend is questionable, as I'm working again, but it is either the last or second to last weekend I'll have to work for a while, so huzzah.
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In solidarity with the VFX industry, who brought the Star Wars we know and love to life, I'm going green screen.

My Etsy shop: Sew Corellian
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress updates! Work has been pretty stressful lately, so working on this has been a nice stress release valve.

First item finished: the cowl!



This is made from a green wool blend, and drapes beautifully. I'm going to be tacking down the collar a little more so it will always lay nicely, but otherwise, I'm super pleased. I over-purchased on the wool, so I may yet make a hoodless version, just to have them both, but I'm kind of digging the hood.

Next up, the tunic. I spent most of Friday night, and part of Saturday transferring my mockup into actual pattern pieces, which was in no way nerve wracking. Shocked



I'm doing some fun seaming to account for the fact that I am shaped differently than a guy. I can flatten myself out a lot, but it still lays nicer if I have that sort of secret dart in there. I also have to curve the seams in at the waist so that I don't end up with weird bunching. The obi and the belt will account for a lot of bulk in that area, so I'm not too worried about it being really obvious that my waist is drastically smaller than my hips. But I tried it with straight seams down the side, and that looked a lot more obvious than if I curved them in.



Here's hoping when I put it all back together, it works in about the way I think it should. In theory, it ought to, but I've never really done anything with this much piecing before, so I'm still crossing my fingers pretty hard.

Tonight after work I plan on making a bunch of piping to insert between the panels and the main fabric. I bias-cut a bunch of strips from the contrast fabric yesterday, so tonight I'll stitch that up, and stitch it around my piping.

Good times! I need to finish this up by August, so that I can take pictures with my roommate in her Q'Anilia costume. Hopefully I can get the fabric-y bits done soon, and after this week I'll be working nights, so I'll have all kinds of time to make it to the leather store during the day. Very Happy Not to mention all the overtime I'm working now will easily fund all the leather and electronics I have yet to purchase.

Hooray progress!
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In solidarity with the VFX industry, who brought the Star Wars we know and love to life, I'm going green screen.

My Etsy shop: Sew Corellian
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Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This should be an interesting build. Good luck!
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I hope this turns out well, and that this thread can be helpful to future Zaynes. Smile

Last night I started my piping! Lots of firsts in this one for me: first time making my own bias tape, first time making my own piping, and the first time inserting piping between a seam. I followed tutorials from the Colette Patterns blog (their how-to collection is a must-read for every stitcher!), and it all worked out splendidly.





I personally love the way the insets look with the piping. It's a detail that isn't technically necessary (well, nor are the insets, I just like the way they look), but if you look closely in some of the panels you can see there are two lines separating the insets from the rest of the tunic (in this image, for example).

Now, to do that three more times. Mr. Green
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, this costume was put on the back burner to finish up all my SDCC stuff, but I'm determined to have this one ready for NYCC (along with so, so many other things, but this is by far the most complicated thing I have to do). And I've made a lot of progress!

First, I underlined my tunic pieces with jersey. That was more challenging than anticipated, but it turned out pretty good in the end, and it's just as soft as I was hoping. It's like wearing a t-shirt... with inexplicably linen sleeves. Rolling Eyes Annoying as the attaching process was, I'm voting "totally worth it" for this one.



And today I designated mostly for sewing, and made a ton of progress.





So, lots of elements going on here. What's missing: the collar, cuffs, and closures for the front stripe of brown. That flap covers the zipper, so I figure four or five hooks and bars ought to do the trick. I'm hoping to finish the collar tomorrow- it's a bit of a time sink, as I'm doing the quilted version, but it'll look a whole lot better, so bring on the time consuming tedium!

Once the tunic is done, I'll take a crack at the pants. Compared to everything that went into the tunic, these should be a cakewalk. Fit is the only major concern, but I'm pretty sure I can get them fitting nicely, and not have the same tightpants party that we ended up with in the battle handmaiden project. Razz

Woo hoo, progress! Mr. Green
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's looking gorgeous! I love the way all the colors are working together. This is going to be awesome when it's done.
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with the colour synergy going on here.

In other news: I have a collar! It is quilted and beautiful.





Some drawings of the collar indicate either a quilted or pleated detail. There may be a version of this collar in my future with a billion little box pleats, but this is not that collar. I went with simply quilting it, and I love the way it looks. The thread is a shade darker than the fabric, since I figured matching thread just wouldn't show anything at all, given the texture of the fabric.

The inside is tacked down with hand-stitching, for a nice clean finish.

Tonight I hope to do the cuffs! Maybe even the closures, if I'm on a roll. Either way, the tunic will be finished this week, and that is awesome.
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obiwanamati (Christina A)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's great! I agree with Jenna. the colors look amazing together! they just fit well.

although I am partial to that multi-color mock-up. adds some zest to the jedi.
Very Happy
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking very nice! Very Happy
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JediDWH (Lisa Curtis)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, Christina, I kind of love it, too. But that sort of thing is the stuff of LCJs' nightmares. Laughing

Still plugging away. I almost have pants, though I maaaaay have to redo them if I decide they're not fitting well enough. Or pull a Project Runway and do some crazy insert dealies. But I have enough fabric to redo, so if it comes down to it, I'll probably just do that. That said, first the handmaiden pants, and now these: I have a serious sizing problem with pants. I swear I measure things first! I should just make all my pants out of stretch fabrics forever. Razz

Hopefully those will be sewn up tomorrow morning. In the meantime, I did my epic leather shopping trip today and acquired a side of leather, some straps, a couple of pouches, and a holster kit. I stained all the kits tonight (though I'm done assembling because I have to set snaps first, and it's impolite to set snaps at this hour), and have added one more pouch to my lineup:



Woo hoo, cell phone pouch! Every Jedi wants to be reachable around the galaxy, right? The other pouches are Chinese military surplus (far left) and SithariRog's resin pouches. With the addition of one more pouch, I think that will thoroughly round out my pouch collection for this costume.

Everything's coming together! Which is good, because I have a month left and a lot of other sewing projects to knock out. Shocked
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANTS!



They're a little tight. I can probably do better on a second pair. But by golly, these will do for NYCC. They're not as tight as my handmaiden pants (win!), and with some strategic seam reinforcement, should be just fine. I'm sitting in them right now, and they're not half bad, other than the fact that it's too hot here to be wearing wool pants.

Sewing left:

Hem ze pants
Gather and finish one cuff
Finish the obi
hook and eye all the things

Everything else:
Make harness
Make belt
Make knee pads
Make vambraces

LET'S DO THIS THING!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You look so much like a cross-dresser right there. Razz Nice pants indeed. I can't wait to see the real thing in person next month.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is looking fantastic. Great work. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Commander_Barriss! And Jenna, you know I can totally rock the cross dressing. Razz

That said, AWWWWWWWW SNAP:



I just finished up the last of the fabric stitchery this morning between my digital hairstyling class and my shift. Except for the obi, which I wil finish tonight when I get home. Still, it's all very exciting. Tonight I shall obi, and work on constructing the harness and belt, and it will be awesome. Very Happy
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